The House of Dior was established on 16 December 1946, in "a private house" at 30 Avenue Montaigne Paris B. However, the current Dior corporation celebrates "1947" as the opening year. Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac. Boussac had originally invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston, but Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand. The new couture house became a part of "a vertically integrated textile business" already operated by Boussac. Its capital was at FFr 6 million and workforce at 80 employees. The company was really a vanity project for Boussac and was a "majorly owned affiliate of Boussac Saint-Freres S.A. Nevertheless, Monsieur Dior was allowed a then-unusual great part in his namesake label (legal leadership, a non-controlling stake in the firm, and one-third of pretax profits) despite Boussac's reputation as a "control freak". Monsieur Dior's creativity also negotiated him a pleasant salary.
On 12 February 1947, Dior launched his first fashion collection for Spring–Summer 1947. The show of "90 models of his first collection on six mannequins" was presented in the salons of the company's headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne. Originally, the two lines were named "Corolle" and "Huit". However, the new collection went down in fashion history as the "New Look" after the editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar Carmel Snow exclaimed, "It's such a New Look!" The silhouette was characterised by a small, nipped-in waist and a full skirt falling below mid-calf length, which emphasised the bust and hips, as epitomized by the 'Bar' suit from the first collection. At a time of post-war fabric restrictions, Dior used up to twenty yards of extravagant fabrics for his creations, favoring the luxury textiles of Robert Perrier. The New Look became extremely popular, its full-skirted silhouette influencing other fashion designers well into the 1950s, and Dior gained a number of prominent clients from Hollywood, the United States, and the European aristocracy. As a result, Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after WWII, regained its preeminence. The New Look was welcomed in western Europe as a refreshing antidote to the austerity of wartime and de-feminizing uniforms, and was embraced by stylish women such as Princess Margaret in the UK. According to Harold Koda, The Costume Institute curator in charge, Christian Dior credited Charles James with inspiring The New Look.
Vogue April 1, 1947
“Christian Dior, new house with new vigor, new ideas, here makes a variation of his market-woman skirt—stiffened, standout, pleated at a low mark. The hat is by Maud Roser, white piqué, banded with navy-blue chiffon.”
WOMEN IN DIOR
Sublime Elegance of a Portrait
SPRING-SUMMER EXHIBITION
Christian Dior Museum, Granville
From May 5th to September 25th 2016
As part of the Normandy Impressionist festival, the Christian Dior Museum’s exhibition invites visitors to discover this great designer’s work and inspiration through the women who have chosen and worn the creations of his fashion house.
After the designer’s sketches, the workshop realization and the presentation on the catwalk, customers give new life to the creations, adapting them to their personalities and the world in which they live. Worn by the customer, the dress takes on her identity, her unique personality and her history. The exhibition evokes these moments in the lives of women, made resplendent by the designer creations. They show how the Dior fashion house helps to “make women more beautiful”, in the words of Christian Dior himself, and to construct their social identity.
The Femmes en Dior exhibition reveals the allure of the stars who wear Dior. These figures of elegance, from both France and other countries, include women from the worlds of the aristocracy, entertainment, theatre and cinema. These portraits in Dior show icons of refinement and distinction such as the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco, Lady Diana, Jackie Kennedy and Princess Soraya, or stars like Maria Callas, Elizabeth Taylor, Olivia de Havilland, Josephine Baker and Marilyn Monroe. The exhibits portray Dior’s major customers and close friends: Geneviève Page, Suzanne Luling or Mitzah Bricard, for example, alongside stars of today such as Marion Cotillard, Charlize Theron and Rihanna.
A selection of models evoking both famous and anonymous women wearing Dior illustrates the fashion house’s style and its many faces. A stunning collection of ninety haute couture dresses, as well as photographs, drawings and paintings, showcasing the elegance of women in Dior, as well as the harmonious way in which a Dior design and the wearer’s individual image and personality enhance one another. Magazines show them at events or social gatherings. Memories, anecdotes, family portraits, and press images all highlight the uniqueness of each woman in Dior.