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Peregalli. iSaloni WorldWide Moscow 2012

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Roberto Peregalli & Laura Sartori Rimini on the Saloni WorldWide Moscow

Roberto Peregalli was born in Milan in 1961. After obtaining a degree in philosophy, he started learning from famous architect Renzo Mongiardino. Laura Sartori Rimini was born in 1964 in Friuli. She obtained the degree in architecture in University of Florence.

At the end of 1980-s they open the architecture studio. During these years Laura Sartori Rimini and Roberto Peregalli work in Italy and abroad, create decorations for opera, Roberto writes his column about cinema in Condé Nast.

Roberto Peregalli is the author of several books on philosophy and architecture. Deep knowledge of philosophy and history combined with great experience of architect and interiors designer makes him one of the most distinguished experts of Classics.


Studio Peregalli / The Invention of the Past ...

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The Milan-based interior design and architectural firm Studio Peregalli presents for the first time their breathtaking environments that capture the classic elegance of the past. Studio Peregalli is the master of making interiors look brilliantly timeworn. Partners Laura Sartori Rimini and Roberto Peregalli have a distinctive ability to work in virtually every historical style-from Renaissance to Victorian-to create interiors that are atmospheric and magical, conjuring up a real or imagined past.
The Invention of the Past profiles the firm’s domestic and public projects, including residences for such leading families as the Etros and the Zegnas. Organized by house elements-facades, libraries, dining rooms, bedrooms, and other spaces-the book focuses on their opulent and whimsical furnishings and old-world craftsmanship. Studio Peregalli juxtaposes authentic works of a particular period with replicated pieces to create an illusion that becomes something real and evocative. The book features lush color photographs of their oeuvre, along with reproductions of drawings, maquettes, and plaster models.

About the Author

Studio Peregalli, founded in Milan in the early 1990s by philosopher Roberto Peregalli and architect Laura Sartori Rimini, has created exceptional interiors and architecture for projects in continental Europe, England, and New York City. Both worked for the legendary architect Renzo Mongiardino. Their work has been featured in The World of Interiors, Architectural Digest, House & Garden, and other leading publications. Hamish Bowles is the European editor at large for Vogue.

Coming soon 5 March – 31 August 2015 Fashion on the Ration: 1940s Street Style

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Coming soon 5 March – 31 August 2015
Fashion on the Ration: 1940s Street Style
From 'onesies' to wear in the air raid shelter to jewellery created from aeroplane parts - Fashion on the Ration looks at how fashion survived and even flourished under the strict rules of rationing in 1940s Britain, often in new and unexpected ways.


Models show off 1940s outfits outside the ImperialWarMuseum. Photograph: Tim Ireland/AP

Fashion on the ration: how make do and mend defined wartime style
A new exhibition shows the ingenious lengths people went to to stay stylish in the 40s, including a wedding dress borrowed 12 times and outfits made to last

Maev Kennedy

It was a time to make do and mend by transforming an old chenille bedspread into a truly startling new coat, put on a brave face by applying beetroot juice as lipstick, and put a best foot forward treated with Moondusk Cyclax fake stocking cream, complete with paint on false seam, advertised as “bare leg freedom with the beauty of sheer hose”.

A new exhibition at the ImperialWarMuseum celebrates the ingenuity, determination, and sometimes plain battiness of the attempts by the stylish to get around rationing, clothes coupons and shortages of everything from knicker elastic to buttons.

The government issued regular bracing suggestions, including cheerful pamphlets on how to darn and patch by Mrs Sew and Sew. Propaganda films included instructions on how to chop up and remodel a man’s felt hat, ending with the unconvincing assurance “when he sees your new sports hat, he certainly won’t regret his old trilby”.

The surprise, in archive photographs and films, and original clothes from the period, is how good many people looked. Designers including Hardy Amies became involved, and Winston Churchill’s much copied one-piece siren suits were immaculately made by tailors Turnbull and Asser.
 
1940s magazines form part of Fashion on the Ration: 1940s Street Style Photograph: Carl Court/Getty Images
“People now think that ‘utility clothing’ meant cheap and nasty – but in fact the reverse is true,” curator Laura Clouting said. “They were actually extremely well made because they were expected to last and last, which is why so many that have survived are still in such good condition.”

“The restrictions, the narrow elegant cut, the simplicity of line, the absence of frills and trimmings, means that the clothes look remarkably stylish today – much more so than those before or immediately after the war.”

The rules were strict: no more than five buttons and two pockets, two pleats, no trouser turn-ups for the men, and braces not elasticated belts – any spare elastic went for women’s underwear. Trousers for women changed from beach to town wear, with one ad boasting “for the home front but with a military touch” showing a woman in a pinstripe suit vaulting over a five bar gate.

People were ingenious at finding sources of unrationed materials. The exhibition includes supremely stylish underwear made for Pamela Mountbatten out of a navigation map printed on silk given to her by an RAF boyfriend.

Although everyone was subject to rationing and coupons, some did much better than others: Vogue offered tips on cutting down a dinner gown into a smart black silk day dress, which wasn’t much help if you didn’t have a black silk dinner gown to start with.

“If you were well off, and started the war with a fabulous extensive wardrobe of clothes, obviously you would have looked much better,” Clouting said. “In the earliest days there was strong disapproval of any kind of ostentation, but by the end it was regarded as a patriotic duty to be seen to make an effort and look your best.”

Many chose to marry in uniform, but one wedding dress on display, made from a length of pre-war lingerie silk, was worn by the bride it was made for, and later borrowed by 12 other women.
 
Model Sadie Doherty wears 1940s style clothing. Photograph: Jack Taylor/AFP/Getty Images
The vintage photographs include several of family members of the museum staff. When Clouting’s parents married in 1940, her mother wore her older sister’s dress, before the couple went on to spend their wedding night in an air raid shelter.

Another photograph shows Rosie Linton’s aunt Ida, who had been a dancer and chorus girl and made her glorious white dress out of old costumes – then dyed it pink to wear at parties. Members of the public are invited to contribute their own family photographs of war wear to the museum’s Twitter, Instagram or Facebook pages.

Peter Hone, MASTER CASTER .

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The World of Interiors, September, 1994.

Peter Hone flat at Ladbroke Square / London

 MASTER CASTER | Hone, with his dog, Basil, seated in front of the Hone Exchange at LASSCO gallery's Three Pigeons branch, opened in 2012. 




Peter Hone at The Hone Exchange

Purchase similar examples from Peter Hone’s collection at :



Made to Measure
By ALEXA BRAZILIAN

Peter Hone
"ASKING HOW MANY PLASTER CASTS I've made in my life is like asking how many peas one's podded in the pea factory," says Peter Hone, an artist, classical art collector and antiques dealer. "Stand still long enough and you'll be cast!"

Referred to by English interiors buffs as the "Hone museum," Hone's small but decorated-to-the-gills flat in London's Ladbroke Square—which he has occupied for half a century, recently in the company of Basil, his Jack Russell terrier—brims with hundreds of cast-plaster reproductions and the antiquities from his celebrated collection that inspired them. In his living room, Hellenic marble busts and original masks of Keats and Voltaire mingle with casts of keystones from historical building façades. Flower-shaped architectural roundels molded from purple and pink resin—another medium in which Hone likes to work—hang from the windows, catching the late-afternoon sun like stained glass.

A true tweed-clad, dog-hair-covered English eccentric, 74-year-old Hone has resurrected something of a lost art with his work. Making plaster-cast reproductions of important sculptures began in the 16th century and first became popular in the early 19th century, when few people could afford to travel to see the original works. Museums throughout Europe and Americacommissioned plaster and electrotype copies of monuments and sculptures so facsimiles could be exhibited and enjoyed more widely. But the practice fell out of favor in the early 20th century, when plaster reproductions came to be seen as inferior substitutes to original artworks, and many were put into storage or even destroyed.

Hone, however, believes plaster casting is a satisfying art form, not to mention a somewhat irreverent way to enjoy history. "I always liked plaster casts better than the originals," he explains. Gazing at Hone's many lily-white creations—a bust of the Roman goddess Diana; a pair of sphinx figurines modeled on the late 18th-century originals; an 18.5-inch-high cast of a panel from a Roman sarcophagus Hone used to keep on his dining room table—you begin to see his point. While authentic sculpture in one's home can feel, as Hone likes to put it, "a bit in your face and up your nose," his playful casts feel infinitely less serious when placed atop a mantle or mounted on a wall. "They're not expensive and well... they're there!" he says. "It's marvelous."

Born of modest means in Liverpool, Hone dropped out of school when he was 14. Among other professions, he's been a chef aboard the British Rail ("I wanted to be eating the bloody stuff, not cooking it!") and a custodian at several small museums in London ("The uniforms were absolutely beautiful"). In the '60s and '70s, he owned a successful antiques business in North London specializing in four-poster beds. "I sold beds to i the top people: The Beatles, the Rolling Stones, the aristocracy," he says. In the late '80s he ran a garden and architectural antiques store with the philanthropist and collector Lord Jacob Rothschild, for whom he is also an art consultant. It was in this last incarnation that Hone "Honed in" (as he loves to say) on plaster casting, buying up copious amounts of an outdoor weatherproof material called Coade stone for use in the shop. He now offers many of his casts in this same water-resistant medium, though he's since taken to calling it "Hone stone."

Until recently, his two-story flat had also served as his studio. "I was so overloaded with molds I couldn't get into bed, you see," he says. Hone's friend Anthony Reeve—managing director of the popular London architectural salvage and supply company LASSCO—came to the rescue last spring, offering him a work and show space at Three Pigeons, LASSCO's branch in rural Oxfordshire. There, in a courtyard where rescued gems like old bell-tower wheels and bright-green prison doors are for sale, Hone displays his work in a tiny brick cottage that used to be a telephone repeater station. Acting as a kind of live catalog, the hut, which has been dubbed The Hone Exchange, contains a wide range of his casts, which he can reproduce in about three weeks if they are not already in stock. The shack also contains examples of his newest obsession: glowing plaster sconces and sculptural appliqués made from imprints of giant leaves Hone finds in friends' gardens. Pieces from the Exchange are available to order on the LASSCO Web site. This latest surge of exposure is sure to make Hone's revitalized relics accessible not only to a privileged few but, as plaster casts were originally meant, to everyone.


Isabel Burton / Captain Sir Richard Francis Burton,

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 Isabel Burton was the daughter of Hon. Henry Raymond Arundell (1799–1886) of Kenilworth, Warwickshire, nephew of James Everard Arundell (1785–1834), 10th Baron Arundell of Wardour. Her mother, Eliza, was the sister of Robert Tolver Gerard (1808–1887), 13th Baronet of Bryn, Lancashire, and 1st Baron Gerard of Bryn.

Isabel was one of eleven children born into the House of Wardour, a respected and well-to-do Roman Catholic family in England. She grew up enmeshed in Londonsociety and attended the convent of the Canonesses of the Holy Sepulchre, where she excelled as a writer and in theological studies.

During the Crimean War, Isabel was refused three times in her quest to be a 'Nightingale nurse' and instead set up an group of 150 like-minded women from Catholic families known as the Stella Club to assist the wives and children of soldiers who had married without permission and for whom the army took no responsibility. Such women and children were often in dire circumstances at home. Isabel and her group went into the slums of London, against the advice of police, to distribute assistance.

While on a school trip to Boulogne, she first met her future husband, Richard Burton, whom she claims to have fallen in love with immediately, though it would be another four years until their courtship began, and ten years until their marriage. Because of her strict Catholic background, her relationship with Burtoncaused strains within her family and she ultimately married him against the wishes of her parents. This was to be a major source of pain for her as the years progressed.

She was an intelligent, resourceful and devout woman, but is always seen in the shadow of her husband, one of the most famous of all Victorians. She was a strong supporter and advocate for her husband and assisted him on many of his most significant writings. He has credited her with being his most ardent supporter. He encouraged her to write and she wrote a number of books, including among them a history of their travels in Syria and Palestine, as well as an autobiography, published posthumously. Some scholars believe that Burton himself wrote under her name, though it is unclear.

She is perhaps best known for burning some of his papers and manuscripts after his death, including his revised translation of The Perfumed Garden, which was to be called The Scented Garden, and of which the largest part consisted of the usually unpublished final chapter dealing with pederasty, plus Burton's extensive (and comprehensive) notes on the subject.


In an appendix to her unfinished autobiography, her posthumous collaborator William Henry Wilkins pointed out that she had a first offer of £6,000 for the manuscript, and moreover that she need never have disclosed her actions at all, or blamed them on her husband. He further claimed that she acted from a sincere belief that "out of a thousand men who read the work, 15 would read it in the scientific spirit in which it was written, and the other 985 solely for filth's sake", and feared that publication would blight, not her husband's worldly reputation – for his interest in the subject was notorious – but, by tempting others to sin, his prospects in the world to come.

From her home in Baker Street she made regular visits to her husband's tomb in Mortlake and on one of these visits she noticed that a small cottage behind the churchyard was available for rent. She had a name-plate made for "Our cottage" and planted roses, ivy and honeysuckle round the front door. She now needed morphine injections to help her cope with the pain of the cancer, but she was determined to republish 34 of Richard's works in a memorial edition. In only eight months she finished the two-volume biography of Richard, The Life of Captain Sir Richard Francis Burton, which was published on 11 July 1893.

  Captain Sir Richard Francis Burton,

By 1895, Isabel was having difficulty in walking and, in the summer, a bout of influenza and a bad attack of abdominal pain meant that she was unable to progress very far on her own autobiography. So she contacted W.H. Wilkins and asked him to help her when she was able to return to the project. Wilkins's book, The Romance of Isabel Burton, was published in 1897.
In September 1895 Isabel moved to Eastbourne until the following March. She died in London on 22 March.

Her body and that of her husband lie in the churchyard of St Mary Magdalen's Roman Catholic Church Mortlake in south west London, in an elaborate tomb in the shape of a Bedouin tent which she designed. The coffins of Sir Richard and Lady Burton can be seen through a window at the rear of the tent, which can be accessed via a short fixed ladder. Next to the lady chapel in the church there is a memorial stained-glass window to Sir Richard, erected by Lady Isabel.



January 17, 1999

'A Wild, Roving, Vagabond Life'
That's what Isabel Burton wanted, and Sir Richard gave it to her.
                                               

Sir Richard Burton (1821-90) -- explorer, scholar, ethnologist, linguist, translator, eroticist -- was, of all the eminent Victorians, the one most gifted at attracting and keeping enemies. Not just any enemies either: an alarming number of his particularly unbalanced contemporaries took up as a duty the job of hating him, dedicating their lives to getting him. His only major competitor in the odium limelight was his wife. Isabel (who was 10 years younger and outlived him by 6 years), a practiced officious meddler and irritant to the important during her husband's life, saved her best shot for after his death: legend has it that she burned her husband's papers (diaries, manuscripts) at his death in a frenzy of bluenosed righteousness and then, worse, mounted a tireless but absurd defense of her literary and cultural crime. As a result, Isabel magnetized the well-oiled detestation not only of the poet Swinburne and a host of her contemporaries but of nearly every scholar and certainly every biographer since. What a couple. Her husband seems to have combined the least attractive traits of Mike Tyson, Oliver North and Larry Flynt; she of Tipper Gore, Leona Helmsley and Tonya Harding. This, anyhow, is the received view.

Until now. Mary S. Lovell, the author of biographies of Jane Digby, Amelia Earhart and Beryl Markham, opens her book by telling us that the one thing we all know about Isabel, that she was a literary arsonist, is wrong. She started a fire, certainly, and some of Burton's letters, along with one important manuscript, were in it; but much, including his diaries, was not. More significant, she was not a mindless hysteric, Lovell shows, but a competent and judicious woman who knew what she was doing. What she was doing was protecting her husband's reputation from his enemies and from the publishers of pornography she felt were sure to get his latest scholarly erotica (''The Scented Garden'') into the wrong hands -- those who sought erotic pleasure.

There is much new material in ''A Rage to Live,'' an extraordinary biography, and at least as much writing that is clever and persuasive as there is special pleading, as much that is moving as is silly. Trying to write the biographies of two people who lived much of their lives before they were together and, after that, were very often not together for long periods involves Lovell in a lot of straddling and even more wild hopping back and forth: but let us turn now from the pleasant salons of London to the dark jungles of Africa, from the tinkle of laughing voices to the roar of panthers. Still, Lovell convinces me that we have made a set of serious blunders in understanding Isabel, the marriage, Burton and the accomplishments of both people.

It is not an easy job to suggest that any two human beings are happy for any length of time, much less marshal evidence that will persuade the jaded that the Burtons' life together was ''a mutual joy,'' beneficial to both. Lovell shows that Isabel was, without doubt, a powerful and courageous woman who could swim with the sharks and fence; act as collaborator, editor and literary agent; ride and shoot and treat rattlesnake bites; get herself and Burton presented to the Queen and asked to dine with the Prime Minister; write and think. It is hardly to our credit that we have so readily constructed Isabel as another of those shrews-married-to-genius: ignorant, intolerant and -- oh, it's a shame he got married at all! Anyhow, now we have little choice but to see that we were wrong altogether and that as a consequence Isabel, her husband and the whole era are more complex and sometimes lovelier than we supposed.

The main events of Burton's life are well known but still difficult to keep track of, encompass or even believe. Lovell tells this sweeping story with clarity and efficiency, and with a partisan bias that is sometimes vigorously intelligent and sometimes just vigorous. She says, for instance, that she has ''unearthed a great deal of previously unpublished material which demonstrates that Burton was heterosexual,'' not homosexual, not ''crypto-homosexual,'' not ''bisexual'' or any other invention foisted on him by biographers ready to apply ''some fashionable psychiatric spin to increase readership.'' She pursues this line with evident but mysterious pride: ''I am absolutely certain . . . that there is no historical evidence to support the theory that Burton was homosexual.''

What a very odd claim. It's hard to know what would count for ''evidence'' with someone confident she has scoured the past; and she will not listen to anyone pointing to Burton's obsessive writings on homosexuality and on pederasty, his comments on the pretty-boy ''blue eyes and blond hair'' and ''childlike simplicity'' of John Hanning Speke, the explorer of Africa, or Burton's rushing about Africa measuring men's penises. Nonsense! Lovell snorts; Burtonwas simply a scholar, interested in everything, ''all aspects of sexual anthropology, and the more bizarre the act the greater was his interest.'' Biographers would be better served asking more calmly questions that matter and that expose less ominously their own ignorance.

However, the material on Burton is generally solid and secure, judicious and sometimes even wry. Lovell admires Burton immoderately, but she recognizes she is hugging a porcupine. The man known during his younger days in India as Ruffian Dick -- and later as a murderer, impostor, betrayer, pornographer, atheist (or Muslim), sexual adventurer and, hang it all, no gentleman -- was certainly hampered by a reputation he also carefully cultivated, in no small part by lying or by telling wild stories about himself and allowing others to believe them. Lovell shows that he also made mistakes, and she is almost too quick to spot plots against him; but this was a man who loved to detect boobies, toadies, frauds and then tell them (and others) about his discoveries.

He was astonishingly gifted and did not put a bushel over those shining gifts: ''It is not my fault,'' he wrote in one of his prefaces, ''if I am better educated than my fellows.'' Doubtless not, but it's not the sort of approach calculated to win our hearts. He struck (and that's the right word) his contemporaries as violence about to happen: as a youth, he ran his fencing foil through the back of his brother's mouth and bashed his violin over his music master's head. He so hated the idea of entering the church that he got himself rusticated from Oxford with noisy parties and widely distributed caricatures of dons and tutors, along with defiance of rules that stopped just short of busted skulls. He didn't stop there, though he did not, Lovell thinks, get himself caught and castrated, murder natives left and right, involve himself in countless duels with jealous husbands or eat a cabin boy. He just delighted in the fact that others thought so.

Burton lived by trying to stun and stupefy all around him, and he nearly stupefies this biographer. Lovell does have superb narrative gifts, and she makes this life, which would be interesting even if told by a colleague of mine who can make ''Oedipus Tyrannus'' sound humdrum, exciting. Burton, after all, not only was part of the ''Great Game'' of espionage in India but fought in the Crimean War, launched several bold and controversial African explorations, became a principal figure in the battle over the source of the Nile and, disguised as an Arab merchant-magician-dervish-fortuneteller, managed to penetrate the forbidden city of Mecca. He served the Foreign Office in posts in West Africa, Brazil and Syria, and made important trips (recorded in important books) to many other spots, including Icelandand the United States.

He knew about 30 languages and innumerable difficult dialects, and his ethnological, linguistic and geographical work was tireless and brilliant. He published nearly 40 volumes on his explorations alone, along with grammars and volumes of folklore; he produced unexpurgated translations of Eastern erotica: ''The Arabian Nights,''''The Kama Sutra'' and ''The Perfumed Garden of the Cheikh Nefzaoui,'' thus charting a collision course with the National Vigilance Society and the Society for the Suppression of Vice. He seems to have lived every minute restlessly and with unrelaxed pugnacity, on the watch for something new to learn and somebody new to offend. Lovell gives this part of her story a generous and uncluttered airing.

But it is with Isabel, the woman who became at least as unpopular as her husband, that Lovell is most eloquent and persuasive. She has indeed unearthed new material, and she uses it to build a new Isabel, one who is as resolutely tactless as her husband but also as courageous, defiant and smart. This new Isabel will not strike many as down-home likable, but I do not see how anyone can now judge her easily or harshly. Lovell finds her admirable, and so do I: she faced arduous challenges and even harder decisions, and she charged into them with the extraordinary gumption of a woman who knew how to bully and how to be loyal. Isabel knew from the start that she was destined to marry Burton, partly because she was sickened by the ordinary mild lot of women and was athirst for something much riskier and partly because a Gypsy fortuneteller had forecast that she was destined to marry one who had the name of the Gypsy tribe, and that name was -- ta-dah! -- Burton.

Isabel was, for all her tough-minded independence, somewhat wackily superstitious, and not just when it came to Gypsy queens. She loved to be hypnotized, insisted that Richard could call to her from across great distances, felt herself to be both psychic and clairvoyant, and held fast to dreams and omens. She was, in this light, someone ''who had strayed from the Middle Ages,'' as her husband affectionately put it. Her premarital musings about Burton-- ''he unites the wild, lawless creature and the gentleman'' -- sound like Isabella Linton dribbling on about Heathcliff, and we might expect a similar rude awakening. However, it turns out that Isabel knows Burton and knows herself: ''I wish I were a man. If I were I would be Richard Burton; but, being only a woman, I would be Richard Burton's wife.'' There is no doubt that she worshiped him, but she did not so much submit herself to him as unite with him in doing what she wanted to do all along: find perilous adventure in the jungles and deserts, in the polite social world and in the life of the mind. She wanted, she said, ''a wild, roving, vagabond life,'' and Burtonhad it to give to her.

Lovell is perhaps overenthusiastic in assuring us that all parts of this marriage, including the sexual part, were terrific. Just because they shared an ''intimate dialogue'' and Burton (unquestionably) had an ''interest in erotic techniques'' might not lead us to conclude that it was ''likely that their sex life was both mutually satisfying and continuously interesting.'' I am happy that Lovell generously supposes so, but maybe she has secrets on this not revealed to me.

More important, Lovell's new material shows that without question Isabel worked closely with Burton, and not just as a scribe or researcher. She was his editor, agent and often his co-author. It was largely this partnership that led to her unpopularity, as she went about, with her customary dash, plugging and defending his works and reputation. She was determined to get him knighted, and did. She was also on the alert to see that he received credit, was never viewed uncharitably and was seen always by everyone ''in the same uncritical light'' that she threw on her beloved. In this, she was not only less successful but managed to make herself thorny and obnoxious to many. Even here, however, Lovell brilliantly shows how her defects were the reflexes of her large, openhearted strengths.

Lovell writes with a zeal that seems to ring right out of Isabel herself. This biography is both admirably scholarly and, now and then, engagingly reckless. Lovell has transformed our view of the Burtons and their accomplishments, but she has not kept her own crotchets under a very short rein. For one thing, the biography is not a book you will wish longer. Lovell laments the fact that she had to lose a third of what she wanted to put in to make this wallowing volume less obese; she will be alone in her wailing. She falls so deeply in love with this couple -- an amiable but decisive failing -- that she can become frenzied in her admiration: certainly Burton was not ''possibly unique among his English contemporaries'' in believing that married women should ''enjoy the sexual act as well as the man,'' and it does not seem to me that ''it was generally accepted, even by his enemies, that he had 'the best mind of his generation.'''

This doting zeal can lead Lovell often to become zanily defensive. She notes that Burtonrarely mentions his mother at all, but that doesn't mean he didn't love her. Oh, no: ''That he loved his mother, as he loved all his family, is beyond question.'' You get the feeling you'd better not question it or Lovell might aim her own fencing foil at the back of your mouth. Nor can you defend Speke, who comes across here as surely the most repellent man of his century or any other. The fact that Burtonwrote so openly about his own heavy drinking may not, in itself, ''discount . . . any unhealthy dependence on alcohol,'' and I don't know if it's much of a defense of his bigoted comments on Africans to note that he was, after all, bigoted about lots of things. Is it really necessary to ask, ''Who can blame them?'' when Richard and Isabel cheer at the news that an old enemy has been assassinated? And is it comely to bristle at the common report that Isabel was fat? ''At 11 stones(154 lbs.) she was hardly seriously overweight for her height.''

Such obsessions now and then detract Lovell from telling us what we need to know: Burtonis plopped into the middle of the Crimean War without so much as a how-de-do about what that war is all about. Worse, there are some errors that somebody should have caught: there are no 28,000-foot peaks in the Andes; Oscar Wilde was not convicted under the Obscene Publications Act.

But even the errors are amiable, as is Lovell's identification with Isabel's grief. She enters into Isabel's designs for Richard's tomb, a tentlike mausoleum, equipped with ''festoons of camel bells'' to provide the sort of ''tinkling,'' she said, that would make it seem just like the desert. Grieving widows cannot be criticized on matters of taste, but Lovell probably didn't have to entitle her penultimate chapter ''Last Tinkle of the Camel Bell'' or report on Isabel's own funeral quite so evocatively: ''Above the voices of the priest and the choir . . . strings of camel bells tinkled gaily in the brisk spring breeze.'' I find myself admiring Isabel almost as much as I admire Lovell; but I wouldn't want either of them in charge of my funeral arrangements. I have just told Mrs. K.: no camel bells.

James R. Kincaid, the Aerol Arnold Professor of English at the University of Southern California, is the author of ''Annoying the Victorians'' and ''Erotic Innocence: The Culture of Child Molesting.''


VIDEO below / Dennis Severs' House (museum): 18 Folgate Street, Spitalfields, London.

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Dennis Severs' House in Folgate Street is a "still-life drama" created by the previous owner as an "historical imagination" of what life would have been like inside for a family of Huguenot silk weavers. It is a Grade II listed Georgian terraced house in Spitalfields, London, England. From 1979 to 1999 it was lived in by Dennis Severs, who gradually recreated the rooms as a time capsule in the style of former centuries. It is now open to the public.
The house is on the south side of Folgate Street, and dates from approximately 1724. It is one of a terrace of houses (Nos 6-18) built of brown brick with red brick dressings, over four storeys and with a basement. The listing for the house, compiled in 1950, describes No 18 as having a painted facade, and that the first floor [window] frames are enriched with a trellis pattern.





Dennis Severs (16 November 1948, Escondido, California– 27 December 1999, London) was drawn to London by what he called "English light", and made his home in the dilapidated property in Folgate Street in 1979. This area of the East End of London, next to Spitalfields Market, had become very run-down, and artists had started to move in. Bohemian visual artists Gilbert & George added to the flavour of the neighbourhood; resident there since the late 1960s, they also refurbished a similar house, as later did writer Jeanette Winterson.





Severs started on a programme to refurbish the ten rooms of the house, each in a different historic style, mainly from the 18th and 19th centuries. The rooms are arranged as if they are in use and the occupants have only just left—the Marie Celeste approach. There are therefore displays of items such as half-eaten bread, and different smells and background sounds for each room. Severs called this "still life drama" and wrote:

“          I worked inside out to create what turned out to be a collection of atmospheres: moods that harbour the light and the spirit of various ages.            ”
Woven through the house is the story of the fictive Jervis family (a name anglicised from Gervais), originally Huguenot (French Protestant immigrants) silk weavers who lived at the house from 1725 to 1919. Each room evokes incidental moments in the lives of these imaginary inhabitants. Writer Peter Ackroyd, author of London: the biography, wrote:



“         
The journey through the house becomes a journey through time; with its small rooms and hidden corridors, its whispered asides and sudden revelations, it resembles a pilgrimage through life itself.[4]            ”
Jeanette Winterson, resident in the neighbourhood, observed, "Fashions come and go, but there are permanencies, vulnerable but not forgotten, that Dennis sought to communicate".[5] Painter David Hockney described the house as one of the world's greatest works of opera.

Severs bequeathed the house to the Spitalfields Trust shortly before his death. It is now open to the public, who are asked during their visit to respect the intent of the creator and participate in an imaginary journey to another time.

The motto of the house is Aut Visum Aut Non!: 'You either see it or you don't'.

CINDERELLA / 2015 / VÍDEO Disney's Cinderella Official US Trailer 2

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Cinderella is a 2015 American romantic fantasy film directed by Kenneth Branagh, from a screenplay written by Chris Weitz. Produced by David Barron, Simon Kinberg and Allison Shearmur for Walt Disney Pictures, the story is inspired by the fairy tale Cinderella by Charles Perrault (with some references from the Brothers Grimm's version of the story). Although not a direct remake, it borrows many elements from Walt Disney's 1950 animated musical film of the same name. The film stars Lily James in the title role as Ella ("Cinderella") with Richard Madden as Prince Charming, Cate Blanchett as Lady Tremaine (the Wicked Stepmother), Sophie McShera as Drizella, Holliday Grainger as Anastasia and Helena Bonham Carter as The Fairy Godmother.



The film was released on March 13, 2015. It had its world premiere on February 13, 2015, in the out of competition section of the 65th Berlin International Film Festival.

Lily James as Ella ("Cinderella")
Eloise Webb as young Ella
Richard Madden as Prince "Kit" Charming
Cate Blanchett as Lady Tremaine
Helena Bonham Carter as The Fairy Godmother
Stellan Skarsgård as The Grand Duke
Derek Jacobi as The King
Hayley Atwell as Cinderella's Mother
Holliday Grainger as Anastasia
Sophie McShera as Drizella
Nonso Anozie as Captain

Ben Chaplin as Cinderella's Father


 Cate Blanchett was the first actor to sign on, when it was announced in November 2012 that she would be playing Lady Tremaine. In March 2013, Emma Watson was in talks to portray Cinderella, but a deal could not be worked out. Gabriella Wilde, Saoirse Ronan, Alicia Vikander, Bella Heathcote and Margot Robbie were also considered for the part, but deals could not be worked out due to scheduling and other conflicts.
 On April 30, 2013, Lily James was added to the cast as the title character. A week later, Richard Madden was cast as the Prince. In June 2013, it was reported that Holliday Grainger and Sophie McShera joined the film as the mean stepsisters, Anastasia and Drizella.Later that month, Helena Bonham Carter was cast as the Fairy Godmother. In July 2013, Stellan Skarsgård began discussions to play the Grand Duke, and his involvement in the film was confirmed soon after.[10] In August 2013, Hayley Atwell joined the cast to play Cinderella's mother. On September 23, 2013, it was announced that Derek Jacobi was cast as the King and Nonso Anozie as the Captain, a loyal friend to the Prince.



In May 2010, following the box office success of Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland, which was the second-highest grossing film of 2010 and earned over $1 billion at the box office worldwide, Walt Disney Pictures began developing a new film adaptation of Cinderella, making a deal on a live-action reimagining based on a script by Aline Brosh McKenna and produced by Simon Kinberg. In August 2011, Mark Romanek was brought on to direct. On February 29, 2012, it was announced that Chris Weitz would be brought in to revise McKenna's script. In January 2013, Romanek left the project due to creative differences, as he was developing a version that was darker than Disney wanted.Later that month, Disney negotiated with Kenneth Branagh to take over as director.


Three-time Oscar-winning costume designer Sandy Powell was in charge of the costumes for the film. Powell began working on concepts for the characters’ looks almost two years before principal photography began in the summer of 2013. Powell said she was aiming for the look of "a nineteenth-century period film made in the 1940s or '50s."

For the stepmother and stepsisters Powell had a very strong thought about the look "They are meant to be totally ridiculous on the outside—a bit too much and overdone—and ugly on the inside." While for the prince the silhouette was from the original animation, however they created a more fitted look and less masculine colors, some of the prince costumes were dyed to accentuate Madden’s eyes.

The ball gown was inspired by the Disney movie in its color and shape, "The gown had to look lovely when she dances and runs away from the ball. I wanted her to look like she was floating, like a watercolor painting." The dress was made with more than a dozen fine layers of fabric, a corset and a petticoat. Nine versions of the Cinderella gown were made, each with more than 270 yards of fabric and 10.000 crystals. It took 18 tailors and 500 hours to make each dress.

The wedding dress was another difficult project. "Creating the wedding dress was a challenge. Rather than try to make something even better than the ball gown, I had to do something completely different and simple... I wanted the whole effect to be ephemeral and fine, so we went with an extreme-lined shaped bodice with a long train." says Powell. It took 16 people and 550 hours to complete the silk-organza, hand painted dress. While in the production was taking photographs of James in the gown, the actress stood too close to an electric heater and the dress caught on fire, the top layer of the dress had to be redone, because only one wedding dress was created due to time and budget.

For the glass slipper, Powell took inspiration from a '50s shoe she saw in a museum. Since glass does not sparkle, they decided to used crystal instead. Swarovski partnered with Disney to make the famous shoe. Powell went directly to Swarovski headquarters in Austria to meet the product developers. It took 6 digital renderings versions of the shoes until they found the right one for the film. Swarovski made eight pairs of crystal shoes for the film, though none of the actually wearable since it was made of crystal. For that, the visual effects had to digitally alter the leather shoes James wore on set into crystal. Alongside with the slipper, Swarovski provided more than 7 million crystals that were used in costumes and 100 tiaras for the ball scene.



The 'Echte Leidse Zeeduffel'

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These two examples of the 'Echte Leidse Zeeduffel' from Biesot, Leiden in Holland are strong reminders of  the Flemish  origin of the original  “Duffel”.
The company is 4 generations old and is still going strong and producing the 'Echte Leidse Zeeduffel' .
You can visit the products of “Proudly Made by Biesot” at :




Patrick Biesot / 4 Generations






Alma Tadema / A Victorian, languid, meticulous reconstruction of the “Classical World”

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 Sir Lawrence Alma-Tadema,  (8 January 1836 – 25 June 1912)
Alma-Tadema was among the most financially successful painters of the Victorian era, though never matching Edwin Henry Landseer. For over sixty years he gave his audience exactly what they wanted: distinctive, elaborate paintings of beautiful people in classical settings. His incredibly detailed reconstructions of ancient Rome, with languid men and women posed against white marble in dazzling sunlight provided his audience with a glimpse of a world of the kind they might one day construct for themselves at least in attitude if not in detail. As with other painters, the reproduction rights for prints were often worth more than the canvas, and a painting with its rights still attached may have been sold to Gambart for £10,000 in 1874; without rights it was sold again in 1903, when Alma-Tadema's prices were actually higher, for £2,625. Typical prices were between £2,000 and £3,000 in the 1880s, but at least three works sold for between £5,250 and £6,060 in the 1900s. Prices held well until the general collapse of Victorian prices in the early 1920s, when they fell to the hundreds, where they remained until the 1960s; by 1969 £4,600 had been reached again (the huge effect of inflation must of course be remembered for all these figures).
His artistic legacy almost vanished. As attitudes of the public in general and the artists in particular became more sceptical of the possibilities of human achievement, his paintings were increasingly denounced. He was declared "the worst painter of the 19th century" by John Ruskin, and one critic even remarked that his paintings were "about worthy enough to adorn bourbon boxes." After this brief period of being actively derided, he was consigned to relative obscurity for many years. Only since the 1960s has Alma-Tadema's work been re-evaluated for its importance within the nineteenth century, and more specifically, within the evolution of English art.
He is now regarded as one of the principal classical-subject painters of the nineteenth century whose works demonstrate the care and exactitude of an era mesmerised by trying to visualise the past, some of which was being recovered through archaeological research.
Alma-Tadema's meticulous archaeological research, including research into Roman architecture (which was so thorough that every building featured in his canvases could have been built using Roman tools and methods) led to his paintings being used as source material by Hollywood directors in their vision of the ancient world for films such as D. W. Griffith's Intolerance (1916), Ben Hur (1926), Cleopatra (1934), and most notably of all, Cecil B. DeMille's epic remake of The Ten Commandments (1956). Indeed, Jesse Lasky Jr., the co-writer on The Ten Commandments, described how the director would customarily spread out prints of Alma-Tadema paintings to indicate to his set designers the look he wanted to achieve. The designers of the Oscar-winning Roman epic Gladiator used the paintings of Alma-Tadema as a central source of inspiration.















WOLF HALL BBC TWO / Wolf Hall: Trailer - BBC Two

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On 23 August 2012, BBC Two announced several new commissions, one of which was Wolf Hall. According to The Guardian £7 million was to be spent on the adaptation. BBC Two controller Janice Hadlow said it was "very fortunate to have the rights" to the two novels and called Wolf Hall "a great contemporary novel".

Peter Kosminsky, the director of the series, said:
 This is a first for me. But it is an intensely political piece. It is about the politics of despotism, and how you function around an absolute ruler. I have a sense that Hilary Mantel wanted that immediacy. ... When I saw Peter Straughan's script, only a first draft, I couldn't believe what I was reading. It was the best draft I had ever seen. He had managed to distil 1,000 pages of the novels into six hours, using prose so sensitively. He's a theatre writer by trade.

The drama series features 102 characters and Kosminsky began casting the other parts in October 2013. Although originally set to film in Belgium, most of the filming took place on location at some of the finest British medieval and Tudor houses and buildings – Berkeley Castle, Gloucester Cathedral and Horton Court in Gloucestershire, Penshurst Place in Kent, Broughton Castle and Chastleton House in Oxfordshire, Barrington Court, Cothay Manor and Montacute House in Somerset, St Donat's Castle in the Vale of Glamorgan, and Great Chalfield Manor and Lacock Abbey in Wiltshire.The series was filmed in May–July 2014. The series, which was made in association with Masterpiece Entertainment and Playground Entertainment, consists of six episodes and was broadcast on BBC Two in the UK from 21 January 2015.

As Straughan and Kosminsky worked on the same series, it has been suggested that a harder take on British history is what the BBC wants, rather than series such as The Tudors or The White Queen. Mantel called the scripts written by Straughan a "miracle of elegant compression and I believe with such a strong team the original material can only be enhanced."

The decision by Kosminsky to film many of the interior scenes by candlelight, led the actors to bump into things and to fear they might catch fire.

Critics have been "almost unanimous" in their praise of the show. Sam Wollaston in The Guardian called it "sumptuous, intelligent, event television." Will Dean, writing for The Independent, gave it four out of five stars. He did not believe it compared favourably with the stage adaptation of the book, yet predicted it would "secure a devoted following." James Walton in The Daily Telegraph gave the first episode five stars out of five, commenting: "it’s hard to see how this one could have been done much better.". Audience figures did not reflect this, however, with a substantial fall between the first and second episode and complaints about the slow pacing.

Many authors and historians have criticised the historical veracity of the narrative in Wolf Hall and the BBC adaptation, for "perversion" of historical fact, and misrepresenting the key historical figures. The author Hilary Mantel has openly expressed anti-Catholic views and is on record for saying that she has a very negative view of the Catholic Church and that "the Catholic Church is not for respectable people". When the series aired in Britain Catholic Bishops severely criticized the depiction of Saint Thomas More as 'perverse' and 'anti-Catholic'. Bishop Mark O’Toole of Plymouthsaid there was a "strong anti-Catholic thread" in the series. Bishop Mark Davies of Shrewsbury said:


 Mark Rylance as Thomas Cromwell

Damian Lewis as Henry VIII of England
 Claire Foy as Anne Boleyn
David Robb as Thomas Boleyn
Bernard Hill as Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk
Anton Lesser as Thomas More
Mark Gatiss as Stephen Gardiner
Mathieu Amalric as Eustace Chapuys
Joanne Whalley as Catherine of Aragon
Jonathan Pryce as Thomas Wolsey
Thomas Brodie-Sangster as Ralph Sadler
Tom Holland as Gregory Cromwell
Harry Lloyd as Harry Percy
Jessica Raine as Jane Boleyn
Saskia Reeves as Johane Williamson
Charity Wakefield as Mary Boleyn
Supporting cast[edit]
Joss Porter as Richard Cromwell
Emma Hiddleston as Meg More
Jonathan Aris as James Bainham
Ed Speleers as Edward Seymour
Kate Phillips as Jane Seymour
Hannah Steele as Mary Shelton
Richard Dillane as Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk
FlorenceBellas Helen Barre
Iain Batchelor as Thomas Seymour
Paul Clayton as William Kingston
Jack Lowden as Thomas Wyatt
Felix Scott as Francis Bryan
Luke Roberts as Henry Norris
Alastair Mackenzie as William Brereton
Max Fowler as Mark Smeaton
Robert Wilfort as George Cavendish
Aimee-Ffion Edwards as Elizabeth Barton



 Episodes


1          "Three Card Trick"     Peter Kosminsky        Peter Straughan          21 January 2015        

2          "Entirely Beloved"     Peter Kosminsky        Peter Straughan          28 January 2015        

3          "Anna Regina"           Peter Kosminsky        Peter Straughan          4 February 2015         

4          "The Devil's Spit"       Peter Kosminsky        Peter Straughan          11 February 2015      

5          "Crows"          Peter Kosminsky        Peter Straughan          18 February 2015      

6          "Master of Phantoms"            Peter Kosminsky        Peter Straughan          25 February 2015       





Wolf Hall by Hilary Mantel – review
Christopher Tayler

Thomas Cromwell, the chief minister to Henry VIII who oversaw the break with Romeand the dissolution of the monasteries, was widely hated in his lifetime, and he makes a surprising fictional hero now. Geoffrey Elton used to argue that he founded modern government, but later historians have pared back his role, and one recent biographer, Robert Hutchinson, portrayed him as a corrupt proto-Stalinist. He's a sideshow to Wolsey in Shakespeare and Fletcher's Henry VIII, a villain who hounds Thomas More to his death in Robert Bolt's A Man for All Seasons. Law and financial administration - his main activities - don't always ignite writers' imaginations, and in the pop-Foucauldian worldview of much historical fiction since the 1980s, his bureaucratic innovations would be seen as inherently sinister. Then there's the portrait of him, after Holbein: a dewlapped man in dark robes with a shrewd, unfriendly face, holding a folded paper like an upturned dagger. He looks, as Hilary Mantel has him say in her new novel, "like a murderer".

In Wolf Hall, Mantel persuasively depicts this beefy pen-pusher and backstairs manoeuvrer as one of the most appealing - and, in his own way, enlightened - characters of the period. Taking off from the scant evidence concerning his early life, she imagines a miserable childhood for him as the son of a violent, drunken blacksmith in Putney. Already displaying toughness, intelligence and a gift for languages, he runs away to the continent as a boy of 15 or so (his date of birth isn't known, and in the novel he doesn't know it himself). At this point, only 16 pages in, the action cuts to 1527, with Cromwell back in England, "a little over forty years old" and a trusted agent of Cardinal Wolsey. His life-shaping experiences in France, Italy and the Netherlands are dealt with in flashback here and there: he has been a soldier, a trader and an accountant for a Florentine bank; he has killed a man and learned to appreciate Italian painting.

Mantel's Cromwell is an omnicompetent figure, "at home in courtroom or waterfront, bishop's palace or inn yard. He can draft a contract, train a falcon, draw a map, stop a street fight, furnish a house and fix a jury." Fluent in many languages, learned, witty and thoughtful, he's also an intimidating physical presence; Wolsey fondly compares him to "one of those square-shaped fighting dogs that low men tow about on ropes". This makes him an ideal emissary for Wolsey's project of liquidating some smaller monasteries to fund a school and an Oxford college. But self-advancement isn't Cromwell's only motive. He's disgusted by the waste and superstition he encounters, and takes a materialist view of relics and indulgences. The feudal mindset of Wolsey's rival grandees seems equally outdated to him: jibes at his lowly origins bounce off his certainty that noble blood and feats of arms now count for less than lines of credit and nicely balanced books.

The first half of the novel, built around Wolsey's fall from power, details Cromwell's domestic setup at Austin Friars and introduces the major players in Tudor politics. Without clobbering the reader with the weight of her research, Mantel works up a 16th-century world in which only a joker would call for cherries in April or lettuce in December, and where hearing an unlicensed preacher is an illicit thrill on a par with risking syphilis. The civil wars that brought the Tudors to the throne still make older people shudder, bringing Henry's obsession with producing a male heir into focus. And the precarious nature of early modern life is brought home by the abrupt deaths of Cromwell's wife and daughters, carried off by successive epidemics in moving but unsentimentally staged scenes. Cromwell asks if he can bury his elder daughter with a copybook she's written her name in; "the priest says he has never heard of such a thing".

Grieving, he thinks of Tyndale's banned English Bible: "now abideth faith, hope and love, even these three; but the greatest of these is love." More, he knows, thinks "love" is "a wicked mistranslation. He insists on 'charity' . . . He would, for a difference in your Greek, kill you." In the second half of the novel - which charts Cromwell's rise to favour as he clears the way for the king's marriage to Anne Boleyn - More emerges as Cromwell's opposite number, more a spokesman for another worldview than a practical antagonist. Shabbily dressed, genial, yet punctiliously correct on politically controversial points, this More is a far cry from Bolt's gentle humanist martyr. He's made repulsive even more by the self-adoring theatricality behind his modest exterior than by his interest in torturing heretics and contemptuous treatment of his wife. He ends up stage-managing his own destruction out of narcissism and fanaticism, or at best a cold idealism that's contrasted unfavourably with Cromwell's reforming worldliness.

For all its structural and thematic importance, however, Cromwell's conflict with More is only part of a wider battle caused by Henry's desire to have his first marriage annulled. Much space is given over to court politics, which Mantel manages to make comprehensible without downplaying its considerable complexity. Central figures - the Boleyn sisters, Catherine of Aragon, the young Mary Tudor, the king himself - are brought plausibly to life, as are Cromwell's wife, Liz Wykys, and Cardinal Wolsey. Determined, controlled but occasionally impulsive, and a talented hater, Mantel's Anne Boleyn is a more formidable character even than her uncle the Duke of Norfolk, portrayed here as a scheming old warhorse who rattles a bit when he moves on account of all the relics and holy medals concealed about his person.

Making characters of all these people is, of course, a big risk. How do you write about Henry VIII without being camp or breathless or making him do something clunkily non-stereotypical? Mantel attacks the problem from several angles, starting by knowing a lot about the period but not drawing attention to how strenuously she's imagining it. Meaty dialogue takes precedence over description, and the present-tense narration is so closely tied to the main character that Cromwell is usually called plain "he", even when it causes ambiguities. Above all, Mantel avoids ye olde-style diction, preferring more contemporary phrasing. Small rises in the level of language are frequently used for comic effect, as in: "Well, I tell you, Lady Shelton, if she had had an axe to hand, she would have essayed to cut off my head." The effortless-seeming management of contrasting registers plays a big part in the novel's success, as does Mantel's decision to let Cromwell have a sense of humour.

"Love your neighbour. Study the market. Increase the spread of benevolence. Bring in better figures next year." If not a man for all seasons, the book's heroic accountant is surely the man for his season. Mantel keeps too close an eye on facts and emotions to make her story an arch allegory of modern Britain's origins, but her setting of such unglamorous virtues as financial transparency and legal clarity against the forces of reaction and mystification is interesting and mildly provocative. At the same time, sinister grace notes accompany Cromwell's triumph. Wolf Hall, the Seymour family seat, is a site of scandal in the novel, a place where men prey on women and the old on the young. It's also where Jane Seymour first caught Henry's eye - an event that falls just outside the book's time scheme, but which serves as a reminder that, whatever their status in 1535, most of the major characters will end up with their heads on the block.


Mantel is a prolific, protean figure who doesn't fit into many of the established pigeonholes for women writers, and whose output ranges from the French revolution (A Place of Greater Safety) to her own troubled childhood (Giving Up the Ghost). Maybe this book will win one of the prizes that have been withheld so far. A historian might wonder about the extent to which she makes Cromwell a modern rationalist in Renaissance dress; a critic might wonder if the narrator's awe at the central character doesn't sometimes make him seem as self-mythologising as his enemies. But Wolf Hall succeeds on its own terms and then some, both as a non-frothy historical novel and as a display of Mantel's extraordinary talent. Lyrically yet cleanly and tightly written, solidly imagined yet filled with spooky resonances, and very funny at times, it's not like much else in contemporary British fiction. A sequel is apparently in the works, and it's not the least of Mantel's achievements that the reader finishes this 650-page book wanting more.


Wolf Hall finale, review: Simply brilliant TV


‘She kneels’, says the executioner. ‘There is no block.’ The executioner who later would slip off his shoes so that Anne could not hear his footsteps behind her. Subtle, brutal, elegant – Wolf Hall embodied in one moment. Cromwell said nothing, moved not a single muscle in his face, but his eyes spoke of indescribable sorrow. The Queen is dead. Long live the Queen.

After six hours of Rolls Royce television, Wolf Hall has to come to its inevitable, bloody end. The final hour, the show’s and Anne Boleyn’s, saw the Queen unravel entirely as Thomas Cromwell (Mark Rylance) greased the wheels for Henry’s marriage to the pliable Jane Seymour. Among a cast so heavyweight it could sink the Mary Rose itself Claire Foy has been magnificent, showing what a huge fierce heart lay beneath that famously flat chest.

Anne’s demise was hard to watch. From the moment she began publicly goading her lovers – poor lute player Mark Smeaton (Max Fowler) got a particularly rough ride all round – to the final grasping gesture of giving out money to the poor and praising her husband to the highest of heavens, Anne’s fall was as pathetic and unspectacular as could be. In one beautiful moment, just before she was arrested, Anne sat while her maids cleared away the remnants of a meal. Eventually all that was left in front of her was a plain, wooden table. Nothing more.
However, before the royal head could be lopped from its regal shoulders, evidence was needed. Well, ‘evidence’. This is Cromwell after all. The naughty gallants who had lain with Anne (and a few who’d just glanced at her portrait in a corridor) were rounded up, mainly on the say so of sister-in-law Jane Boleyn (Jessica Raine) and via the confession of ‘pretty boy’ Mark Smeaton (and, no, the Duke of Norfolk did not refuse the opportunity to crack a gag about fingering lutes). Jane even incriminated her own husband George, the Queen’s brother. They kiss with tongues, Jane says. ‘Do you want me to record that?’ asked an incredulous Cromwell. ‘If you think you’ll forget it’ sniffed Jane. She was deadly serious.

The trial, which resembled an especially downbeat Mason’s initiation ceremony (all hats and candles and gout), was a sham. Anne got to understand how betrayed she had been by literally everyone, and the bravado of her alleged lovers drained as they too grasped the situation. ‘'I need guilty men’ Cromwell had told Harry Norris. ‘So I’ve found men who are guilty.’ Guilty of? Of adultery with the Queen. Of insulting Cardinal Wolsey. Of looking at Cromwell funny. Of being in the way.

Before Anne’s dramatic haircut, Cromwell walked the gallows himself (historical spoiler alert) and made sure the executioner hadn’t forgotten anything. He seemed haunted. In the final moments, caught in the suddenly single Henry’s triumphant bear hug, he was shattered. This was simply brilliant television.

Tweed Run London 2015 / VÍDEO: Tweed Run London 2014

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Hello Old Chap,
Announcing the London Tweed Run 2015, taking place on Saturday 18 April 2015.

Please join us for the seventh annual London Tweed Run, as we take a jaunty bike ride around London in our sartorial best. The event starts at 11:00 am from Trafalgar Square (but plan to be there by 10:00 am, please!). We’ll take in some of London’s finest landmarks, making stops along the way for a spot of tea in a fine London square, a picnic break in the park, and ending up at a beautiful Art Deco ballroom for a drink and a bit of a knees up.

TICKETS
 Tickets to the Tweed Run will be £25, which includes a £5 donation to our designated charity, the London Cycling Campaign (www.lcc.org.uk). Tickets and optional extras go on sale on Friday 30 January at 12:00 noon, via our website. Riders can purchase up to four tickets at a time. We’ve added extra spaces this year, but we expect tickets to sell out very quickly, so we advise being poised at your computer promptly at noon.

This year we are excited to offer a few extra options for riders. Start your morning at the Tweed Run Brunch, hosted by Pol Roger Champagne. You can also reserve a Gourmet Hamper for the Picnic Break.



Jeanne Stourton, the wicked Lady Camoys

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Julia Maria Cristina Mildred Camoys Stonor (born 19 April 1939) is the eldest daughter of Sherman Stonor, 6th Baron Camoys by his wife Jeanne Stourton. She is best known for her books about her family, exposing long-suppressed family scandals and her claims to be the rightful heir to the Camoys barony.

Julia Camoys Stonor was born Julia Maria Christina Mildred Stonor, the eldest daughter and first child of Ralph Robert WattsSherman Stonor, 6th Baron Camoys of Stonor Park and Newport, Rhode Island, USA (1913–1976), by his wife (Mary) Jeanne Stourton (1913–1987). Her mother's maternal grandfather was Thomas Southwell, 4th Viscount Southwell. According to Julia Stonor, the Spanish aristocrat Pedro de Zulueta was her mother's father.

Legally, Jeanne Stourton's maternal grandfather, was the paternal grandson of Charles Stourton, 19th Baron Stourton. Jeanne Stourton's great-uncle the 20th Lord Stourton succeeded as 20th Baron Stourton in 1872, and as 23rd Baron Mowbray & 24th Baron Segrave in 1878 when those baronies (last held by Edward Howard, 9th Duke of Norfolk) were called out of abeyance 101 years after his death in 1777.

Stonor is the author of Sherman's Wife: A Wartime Childhood Among the English Aristocracy, a rather scandalous memoir of her controversial mother Jeanne, Lady Camoys. She is currently at work on the second part of her memoirs, Sherman's Daughter. In the first book, she described her half-Spanish half-English mother, who was fathered by a Spanish aristocrat, and whose lover died in the Spanish Civil War on Franco's side. Stonor alleged in the book that her mother was an ardent Nazi sympathizer, and had been the lover of several men including Joachim von Ribbentrop and her own father-in-law. More controversially, she argued that her mother Jeanne had murdered her husband Lord Camoys (who died in 1976) and that Lady Camoys had been murdered by her younger son Honourable Robert Camoys (died 1994).

In later years, Stonor has claimed that she is the only legitimate child of her parents; her mother's other four children, including the present Lord Camoys, being illegitimate and biologically unrelated to Sherman Stonor. Thus, she has argued that she is the rightful heir to the Camoys barony.

She is an active supporter of several charities, including Exiled Writers Ink!, and has worked as a freelance writer, author, human rights activist, volunteer, and charity-supporter.

https://juliastonor.wordpress.com/

Julia Maria Cristina Mildred Camoys Stonor
19 April 1939 (age 75)
Occupation     Writer
Known for      "I Know Myself To Be Without Fred"
Notable work  Sherman's Wife: A Wartime Childhood Among the English Aristocracy
Religion          Catholic
Relatives         Sherman Stonor, 6th Baron Camoys
Thomas Southwell, 4th Viscount Southwell
Charles Stourton, 19th Baron Stourton
Website



Heil Hitler and pants orf! How the bisexual, Nazi-loving aristocrat called up countless lovers into action, reveals her DAUGHTER
By JULIA CAMOYS STONOR
PUBLISHED: 22:00 GMT, 7 December 2012 | UPDATED: 10:05 GMT, 8 December 2012


Heil Hitler!’ shouted Mummy as she pushed Daddy down the stairs at StonorPark, our ancestral home in Oxfordshire.
Standing terrified in the hallway below, I watched as my father, the Honourable Sherman Stonor, heir to the 5th Baron Camoys and a descendant of Sir Thomas de Camoys, Henry V’s standard-bearer at the Battle of Agincourt, picked himself up off the floor and dusted down his khaki army uniform.
My mother stared at him, her scarlet finger nails glittering and a lit cigarette clinging perilously to her clenched lips.
 ‘You’re totally useless and the sooner I’m rid of you the better,’ she yelled. ‘Get the hell out of here.’
At that, my father made his way out of the tradesmen’s entrance and back to the dangers of World War II, leaving behind the perpetual battlefield that was life with my mother Jeanne.
Surely one of the most eccentric characters ever to have graced, or rather disgraced, the pages of Debrett’s Peerage, my mother was an ardent Nazi sympathiser who seduced Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton, drove Cecil Beaton’s brother Reggie to suicide, and slept with Hitler’s henchman Joachim von Ribbentrop.
And all that was before she openly cuckolded my father with a string of lovers, insisting throughout my childhood that I should include this ever-growing list of ‘Uncles’ in my nightly prayers.
That drama on the stairs was just one of many colourful episodes during my upbringing at StonorPark, the stately home near Henley-on-Thames which has been in my family for more than 850 years and where my mother once entertained British and European royalty and leading lights of the day including Benjamin Britten, John Betjeman and Graham Greene.
They accepted her hospitality at a price. She was once described by her friend John Mortimer as ‘a great beauty’ but ‘endlessly quarrelsome and singularly unforgiving’ and this was certainly true when it came to her treatment of my father.
Bit on the side: SS general Joachim von Ribbentrop was the lover of Lady Camoys, with her very obviously having an affair more than likely with her husband knowing
Bit on the side: SS general Joachim von Ribbentrop was the lover of Lady Camoys, with her very obviously having an affair more than likely with her husband knowing
She tolerated his presence only so far as was necessary to satisfy the craving for money and social standing which stemmed from her impoverished childhood.
Her mother Frances Stourton was an army major’s wife, deserted by her callous husband when he discovered that she was sleeping with a dashing Spanish diplomat named Don Pedro de Zulueta — but not before he had embezzled her substantial inheritance. My mother was the result of that liaison. Born in Londonin 1913, she was brought up by Feckless Fanny, as she called her mother, in a flat above a butcher’s shop.
Although she never forgave my grandmother for the reduced circumstances into which she was born, she was immensely proud of her aristocratic blood, her father coming from a family of Castilian grandees.
She often proclaimed that she was ‘an aristo Spanish bastard’ and soon exploited her exotic beauty, seducing wealthy beaux including department store tycoon Gordon Selfridge, 47 years her senior.
This secured her an entree into fashionable London society where she found what promised to be a lucrative source of income in the form of sexual blackmail.
One of her targets was society photographer Cecil Beaton’s younger brother Reggie, an RAF officer whom she knew to be gay. They were supposedly friends but when they met for dinner one evening in October 1933 she threatened to reveal his homosexuality unless he agreed to meet her for tea the next day and hand over a large sum in cash.
Later that night Reggie jumped to his death in front of a London Underground train. Far from showing remorse, my mother let it be known that she would tell the Beatons’ mother the reason for his suicide unless Cecil let her sit for him.
The result, a beautifully composed portrait by the most celebrated photographer of the day, confirmed her status as ‘one of society’s loveliest girls’ as one newspaper described her, and in 1935 she caught the eye of Barbara Hutton who employed her as her social secretary. Vulnerable and gullible, ‘my own darlin’ Barbara’, as my mother called her, was then on the second of her seven husbands.
Her third would be Cary Grant, one of the biggest heart-throbs of the era, but she is also said to have taken various female lovers, including Greta Garbo. This made her an easy target for my mother, who flirted her way into her bed and remained there as long as it took to secure various magnificent gifts, including a diamond and ruby brooch, and a watch studded with sapphires and emeralds, both from Cartier.

“My grandmother refused to attend my parents' marriage, weeping with what proved justified concern for her son”

Alongside her penchant for money and expensive jewellery, my mother had a life-long obsession with uniforms and medals and she was inevitably drawn to Hitler’s henchman Count Joachim von Ribbentrop when he was appointed the German ambassador to Britain in 1936. They soon embarked on an affair.
Among certain elements of the English Catholic hierarchy there was a growing conviction that Nazism offered a bulwark against the evils of communism. This view was shared by my mother who took to ending her sentences with the words ‘Heil Hitler and olé!’. The blood-lust and violent glamour of a man like von Ribbentrop, cruelly resplendent in his black and silver SS uniform and jackboots, only added to his appeal.
‘Such divine blue eyes and much, much else in the vital parts,’ she would reminisce, but Von Ribbentrop was already married and could never offer her the wealth and place in society to which she aspired.
For that, she turned to my father, a fellow Catholic. Two months younger than her, he was a naive and gentle man, an ardent ecologist who loved to make and fly his own kites. His family was understandably worried when my mother set her cap at him.
That she had little genuine affection for my father was clear when, dining at Stonor for the first time, she appeared transfixed by the Georgian cutlery, turning the silver over and examining the hallmarks as if making an impromptu valuation.
The scarlet lipstick marks she left on the linen napkins were regarded equally unfavourably and when my parents married in the summer of 1938, my grandmother Mildred — or Mildew as my mother called her — refused to attend, remaining at home in bed and weeping with what proved to be justified concern for her son.
The newly-weds spent two nights at Claridge’s, where my father lost his virginity to his highly-experienced new wife before she announced a surprise honeymoon visit to Joachim von Ribbentrop’s castle Schloss Sonnenburg, which was set in a dark and dank forest north-east of Berlin.
While von Ribbentrop was flirting with my mother, presenting her with wedding gifts including jackboots, spurs and the low-cut dirndl dresses more traditionally seen on Bavarian barmaids, my father was bewildered to find himself surrounded by armoured cars, heavily uniformed SS guards, and endless goose-stepping.
Realising the extent of his new wife’s adoration of Hitler and the Nazi cause, he tried to make a run for it but was headed off at the local station by motorcycling storm-troopers led by my mother, and was coerced into returning.
The trauma of this disastrous honeymoon appeared to have rendered him impotent. But, while my mother would forever afterwards make fun of his ‘God-awful lack of performance’, it was apparent on their return to Londonthat she was pregnant with me.
She regarded my arrival in the world in April 1939 with clear disdain, and instead of attending my christening the following month she spent the day at Claridge’s, in bed with a Brazilian diplomat.
Referring to me as ‘Sherman’s brat’, she would often tell me as a young child: ‘Never go out without making your bed, because you might be brought back dead.’ She obliged me to curtsy to her on a daily basis — a habit which remained largely unbroken into my 30s — and bought me only second-hand clothes, including my underwear, even as she luxuriated in her furs, silks, satin and cashmere.
‘Nothing common or ’orf the peg for me,’ she would declare and her favourite colour was black, a hark back to the fascist uniforms of the Thirties which she emulated with military outfits made specially for her — featuring whistles, silver buttons, cockaded hats and rows of medals.
Guests at Stonor were often startled to find her seated at the dining table in full regalia and she was as likely to appear fully uniformed at the crack of dawn — her morning seldom starting later than 6am, such was her eagerness to star in the dramatic spectacle which was her daily life.
Insisting that the local station-master roll out a red carpet on the platform and doff his cap to her whenever she travelled by train, she played the part of lady of the manor to the full, with me in the occasional walk-on role.
With my father away at war, I learnt from an early age to mix her favourite ‘Horse’s Neck’ cocktails — the concoction of brandy and ginger ale which she insisted on having for elevenses. I also accompanied her to mass in Stonor’s private chapel, which adjoined the house.
There she scandalised the congregation of villagers and estate workers by lighting her cigarette from the sanctuary lamp and talking loudly in the gallery above the pews, jangling her bracelets and stomping in and out during the service to take calls on the telephone which shrilled loudly in the adjacent bedroom.
Frequently declaring that she had the ‘divine right of Kings’, she decided that this entitled her to bring her retinue of King Charles spaniels to these services. If they needed a piddle, she simply let them out in to the adjoining library to relieve themselves on the rare silk rugs.
Constantly snarling and barking, these dogs were also honoured guests at every meal — sitting on Chippendale chairs as my mother entertained the ‘Guns’, the men who attended the regular Saturday shooting parties she hosted throughout the war. Many returned for private encounters which were more intimate, if sometimes rather brief.
‘Pants ’orf,’ she would command them upon their arrival. ‘Don’t let’s waste any time. Heil Hitler and olé!’
In her eyes, my father could never match up to a man like von Ribbentrop
Asking too many question about these ‘Uncles’, as I was encouraged to call them, would have earned me a cuff to the ear, with the heavy gold swastika which dangled from her charm bracelet adding to the pain. But my mother made no attempt to keep her liaisons secret and one in particular caused much scandal locally.
While my father’s mother had moved to the safety of Americasoon after the outbreak of war, his father Ralph had remained behind. He was nearly 30 years older than my mother but soon he was openly sharing her bed.
This relationship did not stop her seeing many other men — including the conductor Sir Malcolm Sargent and the drinks tycoon Enrico Cinzano — and neither did the return of my father from the war.
Evacuated from Dunkirk, he was invalided out of the Army in 1944 with a burst appendix. This ordeal, combined with the shame of discovering that his wife had been sleeping with his own father, gave him a nervous breakdown, but my mother’s coterie of men friends continued their regular visits to StonorPark.
They accepted my father’s lavish if unwilling hospitality with scarcely a thought for their all but silent host seated at the far end of the vast mahogany dining table. As always he was relentlessly mocked by my mother.
‘For God’s sake, f*** off Sherman,’ she would shout if he dared annoy her. ‘That is, if you can.’
Snatching up the telephone whenever it rang and barking ‘Turville Heath 424 — and who the hell are you?’ into the receiver, she remained firmly in charge at Stonor.
When Joachim von Ribbentrop was executed for war crimes in 1946, she ordered me into the courtyard to ring the Angelus bell, more normally used to summon the faithful to prayer but now tolled in mourning for her dead lover.
In her eyes, my father could never match up to a man like von Ribbentrop, but she could never have divorced him. The ultimate prize came in 1968 when my grandfather Ralph died, making my father the 6th Baron Camoys and my mother Lady Camoys.
She rejoiced in a title which seemed to put her days above that butcher’s shop irrevocably behind her, but the costs of running Stonor had fast diminished my father’s wealth. My mother was eager to sell the valuable mansion, so forced him to move into the four-bedroomed Dower House nearby.
My father, mysteriously in increasingly deteriorating health and confined to a claustrophobic single bedroom, died in March 1976 and, at the age of 63, my mother began fortune-hunting all over again.
It wasn’t long before she had found a target in her neighbour, Agatha Christie’s widower Sir Max Mallowan, an archaeologist who had inherited some of his wife’s estate following her death just two months before that of my father.
Like so many men over the years, Sir Max became mesmerised by my mother and soon proposed, but there was a hitch. Her reputation had gone before her and his friends warned him off.
Terrified by the rumours, Sir Max swiftly withdrew his proposal of marriage, and my mother was forced to spend the years before her death in 1987 living in a rundown workman’s cottage near StonorPark.
There she maintained the disdain for me which she had made so apparent when I was a little girl — clearly I had always bored her to tears.
‘I’m doing my best Mama,’ I would tell her.
‘Your best is simply not good enough,’ she’d reply. ‘Nor will it ever be.’
Curiously, I had never stopped loving her, and I was ever eager to be at her side. I believed in her absolutely, and, in my eyes, she would always be a towering figure, a beautiful, scent-drenched heroine.

Adapted from Sherman’s Wife by Julia Camoys Stonor, published by Stonor Lodge Press and available as an ebook from www.Amazon.co.uk  at £5.99. © 2012 Julia Camoys Stonor
Julia Maria Cristina Mildred Camoys Stonor (born 19 April 1939) is the eldest daughter of Sherman Stonor, 6th Baron Camoys by his wife Jeanne Stourton. She is best known for her books about her family, exposing long-suppressed family scandals and her claims to be the rightful heir to the Camoys barony.


 Rampant fascism near Henley

Sherman’s Wife: A Wartime Childhood Among the English Aristocracy Julia Camoys Stonor
Desert Hearts, pp.347

There can seldom have been a better first sentence in a book by a daughter about her mother: ‘“Heil Hitler!” shouted Mummy as she pushed Daddy down the stairs at Assendon Lodge.’ Even better, the next few lines reveal that the second world war was in progress at the time, Daddy was in uniform, and the author was watching and listening from her hiding place under the said stairs.

Alas, the rest of the book fails to live up to its brilliant opening. This is a pity, because Julia Camoys Stonor has a bloodcurdling tale to tell and a monstrous parent to describe; and apart from taking the lid off her family, she has a serious purpose — to indicate just how strong, in certain pre-war English upper-class circles, sympathy for Hitler and Franco could be. This fact is not, of course, unknown; but with proper editing her book could have filled in another corner of the tapestry and been useful to historians. Repetitive and at times wildly overwritten, it reads, instead, as if it has not been edited at all.

Nevertheless it is quite a story. Julia Stonor’s mother, Jeanne, née Stourton, was a society beauty from a well-connected tribe of Catholic grandees. Jeanne’s flighty mother had an affair with a Spanish aristocrat, Pedro de Zulueta, who was acknowledged to be Jeanne’s father; one of her great-uncles was the Spanish ambassador in London in the 1930s, and another was a cardinal and adviser to two Popes. By her daughter’s account, the dark-haired, volatile Jeanne, with her rapacious appetite for money and sex, her complete disregard for convention, her alarming mendacity and her streak of cruelty, exhibited all the faults the English like to associate with the Spanish; oddly, even the photographs in this book give her the alarming look of a Goya cartoon. She boasted of being an ‘aristo Spanish bastard’ and was much given to shouts of ‘Olé’.

The Wes Anderson Collection: The Grand Budapest Hotel / Vídeo below

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This companion to the New York Times bestselling book The Wes Anderson Collection takes readers behind the scenes of the Oscar®-winning film The Grand Budapest Hotel with a series of interviews between writer/director Wes Anderson and movie/television critic Matt Zoller Seitz.



Learn all about the film's conception, hear personal anecdotes from the set, and explore the wide variety of sources that inspired the screenplay and imagery—from author Stefan Zweig to filmmaker Ernst Lubitsch to photochrom landscapes of turn-of-the-century Middle Europe. Also inside are interviews with costume designer Milena Canonero, composer Alexandre Desplat, lead actor Ralph Fiennes, production designer Adam Stockhausen, and cinematographer Robert Yeoman; essays by film critics Ali Arikan and Steven Boone, film theorist and historian David Bordwell, music critic Olivia Collette, and style and costume consultant Christopher Laverty; and an introduction by playwright Anne Washburn. Previously unpublished production photos, artwork, and ephemera illustrate each essay and interview.



The Wes Anderson Collection: The Grand Budapest Hotel stays true to Seitz's previous book on Anderson's first seven feature films,The Wes Anderson Collection, with an artful, meticulous design and playful, original illustrations that capture the spirit of Anderson's inimitable aesthetic. Together, they offer a complete overview of Anderson's filmography to date.

Praise for the film, The Grand Budapest Hotel:

Four Academy Awards®, including Costume Design, Music - Original Score, and Production Design; Nine Academy Award nominations, including Best Picture, Directing, and Writing - Original Screenplay; Best Film - Musical or Comedy, Golden Globe Awards; Best Original Screenplay, BAFTA, WGA, NYFCC, and LAFCA Awards
Praise for the book, The Wes Anderson Collection:

“The Wes Anderson Collection comes as close as a book can to reading like a Wes Anderson film. The design is meticulously crafted, with gorgeous full-page photos and touches . . .”
—Eric Thurm, The A.V. Club




The Wes Anderson Collection Website

Mods n Rockers Brighton 1964

The Mod Generation


Remembering 2014 / The Modernists by Jeff Noon . Produced & directed by Rikki Tarascas / The Komedia, Brighton, from Wednesday 18th-Sunday 22nd June. 2014

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THE MODERNISTS
Fuelled by amphetamines, fast music, style and the motor scooter, The Modernists is a non-stop ride with the Mods.
In the 1950s the Mods were the pure distillation of Cool.
They adopted blues R&B and Bluebeat, moved into basement clubs and developed their own dances,style and attitude.
Produced & directed by Rikki Tarascas
Tanglehead.co.uk



The mods and rockers were two conflicting British youth subcultures of the early to mid-1960s. Media coverage of mods and rockers fighting in 1964 sparked a moral panic about British youths, and the two groups became labelled as folk devils.


The rocker subculture was centred on motorcycling, and their appearance reflected that. Rockers generally wore protective clothing such as black leather jackets and motorcycle boots (although they sometimes wore brothel creeper shoes). The common rocker hairstyle was a pompadour, while their music genre of choice was 1950s rock and roll, played by artists like Eddie Cochran, Gene Vincent, and Bo Diddley. The mod subculture was centred on fashion and music, and many mods rode scooters. Mods wore suits and other cleancut outfits, and preferred 1960s music genres such as soul, rhythm and blues, ska, beat music, and British blues-rooted bands like The Who, The Yardbirds, and The Small Faces


Jeeves is leaving ... I will be back in 10 days. Greetings

REMEMBERING ... Dominick Dunne, Chronicler of Crime.

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After serving in the military, Dunne moved to New York City, where he became a stage manager for television. He was later brought to Hollywood by Humphrey Bogart, who wanted Dunne to work on the television version of The Petrified Forest. He later went on to work on Playhouse 90 and became vice-president of Four Star Television. He hobnobbed with the rich and the famous of those days. In 1979, beset with addictions, Dunne left Hollywoodand moved to rural Oregon, where he says he overcame his personal demons and wrote his first book, The Winners. Early in his career he was a movie producer and friend of Elizabeth Taylor as described in a recently updated biography on Elizabeth Taylor.

In November 1982, his daughter, Dominique Dunne, best known for her part in the film Poltergeist, was murdered. Dominick Dunne attended the trial of John Thomas Sweeney, who was convicted of voluntary manslaughter. According to Dunne's account in Justice, Sweeney was sentenced to six-and-a-half years, but served only two and a half after his conviction. Dominick Dunne wrote the article "Justice: A Father's Account of the Trial of his Daughter's Killer" for the March 1984 issue of Vanity Fair.

Dunne went on to write for Vanity Fair regularly, and fictionalized several real-life events, such as the murders of Alfred Bloomingdale's mistress Vicki Morgan and banking heir William Woodward, Jr., in several best-selling books. He eventually hosted the TV series Dominick Dunne's Power, Privilege, and Justice on CourtTV (later truTV), in which he discussed justice and injustice and their intersection with celebrities. Famous trials he covered included those of O.J. Simpson, Claus von Bulow, Michael Skakel, William Kennedy Smith, and the Menendez brothers. Dunne's account of the Menendez trial, "Nightmare on Elm Drive," was selected by The Library of America for inclusion in its two-century retrospective of American true crime writing, published in 2008.

In 2005, California Congressman Gary Condit won an undisclosed amount of money and an apology from Dunne, who had earlier implicated him in the disappearance of Chandra Levy, an intern from his U.S. House of Representatives district, with whom Condit had been carrying on an extramarital affair. In November 2006, he was sued again by Condit for comments made about the former politician on Larry King Live on CNN,  but the suit was eventually dismissed.

While rumored in early 2006 that he intended to cease writing for Vanity Fair, Dunne stated the opposite in a February 4, 2006, interview with talk show host Larry King. "Oh, I am at Vanity Fair. I'll be in the next issue and the issue after that. We went through, you know, a difficult period. That happens in long relationships and, you know, you either work your way through them or you get a divorce. And I didn't want a divorce and we've worked our way through and Graydon and I are close and he's a great editor and I'm thrilled to be there."

Dunne frequently socialized with, wrote about, and was photographed with celebrities. A Salon.com review of his memoir, The Way We Lived Then, recounted how Dunne appeared at a wedding reception for Dennis Hopper. Sean Elder, the author of the review, wrote: "But in the midst of it all there was one man who was getting what ceramic artist Ron Nagle would call 'the full cheese,' one guy everyone gravitated toward and paid obeisance to." That individual was Dunne, who mixed easily with artists, actors and writers present at the function. The final line of the review about Dunne quoted Dennis Hopper wishing he "had a picture of myself with Allen Ginsberg and Norman Mailer."

In 2008, at age 82, Dunne traveled from New York to Las Vegas to cover O.J. Simpson's trial on charges of kidnapping and armed robbery for Vanity Fair magazine, claiming it would be his last. During the trial, an unidentified woman approached and kissed him, causing her to be ejected from the courtroom. Later, when he collapsed from the sudden onset of severe pain and had to be rushed to the hospital, he expressed amazement at how fast the word spread at his fan site, DominicksDiary.com.

Dunne's adventures in Hollywood as an outcast, top-selling author and reporter, were catalogued in the release of Dominick Dunne: After the Party. This film documents his successes and tribulations as a big name in the entertainment industry. In the film, Dunne reflects on his past as a World War II veteran, falling in love and raising a family, his climb and fall as a Hollywood producer, and his comeback as a writer.

In September 2008, Dunne disclosed that he was being treated for bladder cancer. He was working on Too Much Money, his final book, at the time of his death. On September 22, 2008, Dunne complained of intense pain, and was taken by ambulance to Valley Hospital. Dunne died on August 26, 2009, at his home in Manhattan and was buried at Cove Cemetery in the shadow of Gillette Castle in Hadlyme, Connecticut.

On October 29, 2009 (what would have been Dunne's 84th birthday), Hollywood friends and some reporter friends, along with new Hollywood figures, gathered at the Chateau Marmont to celebrate Dominick Dunne's life. Vanity Fair magazine paid tribute to Dunne's life and extensive contributions to the magazine in its November 2009 issue.

After his death, Dominick's son, Griffin Dunne, confirmed his father's bisexuality and 20-year celibacy, marveling that his father had kept this central part of his personality to himself almost until he died.


August 27, 2009
Dominick Dunne, Chronicler of Crime, Dies at 83


Dominick Dunne, who gave up producing movies in midlife and reinvented himself as a best-selling author, magazine writer, television personality and reporter whose celebrity often outshone that of his subjects, died Wednesday at his home in Manhattan. He was 83.

The cause was bladder cancer, a family spokesman said. The spokesman had initially declined to confirm the death, saying the family had hoped to wait a day before making an announcement so that Mr. Dunne’s obituary would not be obscured by the coverage of Senator Edward M. Kennedy’s death.

In the past year Mr. Dunne traveled to the Dominican Republic and Germany for experimental stem-cell treatments to fight his cancer, at one point writing that he and the actress Farrah Fawcett, who died in June, were in the same Bavarian clinic.

He sprang to national prominence with his best-selling novels “The Two Mrs. Grenvilles” in 1985 and “An Inconvenient Woman” in 1990, both focused on murders in the upper realms of society. He later chronicled high-profile criminal trials and high society as a correspondent and columnist for Vanity Fair magazine.

He achieved perhaps his widest fame from his reporting of the O. J. Simpson murder trial in 1994 and 1995 and later as the host of the program “Dominick Dunne’s Power, Privilege and Justice,” on what was then Court TV (now TruTV).

Last year, as a postscript to his Simpson coverage, Mr. Dunne defied his doctor’s orders and flew to Las Vegas to attend Mr. Simpson’s kidnapping and robbery trial.

Mr. Dunne’s magazine career was weighted toward the coverage of sensational murder trials. He made no secret of the fact that his sympathy generally lay with the victim, and he was vocal about what he considered the misapplication of justice.

Sympathetic Stance

 He never hesitated to admit that his sympathetic stance stemmed from the murder of his daughter, Dominique, by John Sweeney, her ex-boyfriend, in 1982. Ms. Dunne, a 22-year-old actress, was found strangled, and Mr. Sweeney, who was found guilty only of voluntary manslaughter and a misdemeanor for an earlier assault, served less than three years.

“I’m sick of being asked to weep for killers,” Mr. Dunne often said. “We’ve lost our sense of outrage.”

During the trial, Tina Brown, who was the editor of Vanity Fair at the time, suggested he keep a journal. The account, “Justice: A Father’s Account of the Trial of His Daughter’s Killer,” was published in Vanity Fair in 1984.

“He never pretended to be objective in covering trials,” Graydon Carter, the current editor of Vanity Fair, said Wednesday. “He was always writing from the point of view of the victim because of what happened to his daughter, and he had a riveting way of knowing, almost like Balzac, what to tell the reader when.”

Mr. Dunne went on to cover the trials of Claus von Bulow, Michael C. Skakel, William Kennedy Smith, Erik and Lyle Menendez, and Phil Spector, as well as the impeachment of President Bill Clinton.

“I realized the power writing has, and it has also helped me deal with my rage,” he said in an interview with The New York Times for this obituary in 2000. “It gave me a lifelong commitment not to be afraid to speak out about injustice.”

Mr. Dunne’s brother was the writer John Gregory Dunne, the husband of the writer Joan Didion. He died in 2003.

High-Profile Clashes

Mr. Dunne’s speaking out led to a lawsuit for slander filed by Gary Condit, a Democratic congressman from California, over remarks Mr. Dunne had made on national radio and television in 2001. Mr. Condit had been scheduled to testify in a deposition about his relationship with Chandra Levy, a federal government intern who disappeared in May 2001 and whose body was found in a Washingtonpark in 2002.

Mr. Dunne quoted a man who asserted that he had heard that Mr. Condit had talked about his relationship with a woman whom he had described as a clinger. Mr. Dunne said this had created an environment that led to Ms. Levy’s disappearance. Mr. Condit’s suit, originally seeking $11 million in damages, was settled for an undisclosed sum and an apology. A later suit by Mr. Condit was dismissed.

Mr. Dunne also clashed with the Kennedy family about his involvement in the 2002 trial of Mr. Skakel, a first cousin of Robert F. Kennedy Jr. Mr. Skakel was sentenced to 20 years to life in the murder of Martha Moxley in 1975. Her body was found beneath a tree on her parents’ property in Greenwich, Conn.

In 2003, in a 14,000-word article in The Atlantic Monthly arguing that the case against his cousin was flawed and had left reasonable doubt, Mr. Kennedy accused Mr. Dunne of intimidating prosecutors and helping to drive the news media into “a frenzy to lynch the fat kid.”

Mr. Dunne said in The Times interview that he had also been a source of information for a book that Mark Fuhrman was writing about the Skakel trial. He had met him when Mr. Fuhrman testified during the O. J. Simpson murder trial. “I had some hot information about Skakel,” Mr. Dunne said, “and I knew Fuhrman would bring it to attention.”

Mr. Dunne, known as Nick to his friends, was a ubiquitous figure in both American and European society. He attributed his success to his being a good listener. “Listening is an underrated skill,” he said in discussing his interviews with political figures and celebrities like Imelda Marcos, Elizabeth Taylor, Diane Keaton and Mr. von Bulow.


Dominick Dunne has met them all--stars and slugs, criminals and victims, the innocent and the hideously guilty--and now his two provocative collections of Vanity Fair portraits are in one irresistible volume. From posh Park Avenue duplexes to the extravagant mansions of Beverly Hills, from tasteful London town houses to the wild excesses of million-dollar European retreats, here are the movers and shakers--and the people who pretend to be.

Among colorful profiles and revealing glimpses of Elizabeth Taylor, Claus von Bülow, Gloria Vanderbilt, and Aaron Spelling, discover who dumped an heiress the night before the wedding to run off with the best man . . . what happens when the ex-husband of a movie legend becomes president . . . why a beautiful singer fell in with the mob . . . and, in Dunne's most personal story, how a lying murderer and a limelight-loving judge denied justice to his family after his daughter's life was brutally destroyed.

Filled with pathos and wit, insight and sass, this candid, controversial volume gives you an extraordinary peek into the rarefied world of the rich, the royal, and the ruined. For Dunne is the man who knows all their secrets--and now those secrets are out.



DANSE MACABRE FEBRUARY 1987
The Rockefeller and the Ballet Boys
Another spectacular will contest is dividing the dinner parties of tony America. The recently deceased was Margaret Strong, a plain-Jane Rockefeller who always attracted effete men. Her first husband was the ballet-mad Marquis de Cuevas. Her second was nearly forty years her junior: Raymundo de Larrain, who gave her a wheelchair and new teeth for the wedding. And then, according to her children, milked her out of $30 million. On the eve of the trial, the author investigates a society redolent of black orchids.


The apex of the social career of George de Cuevas was reached in 1953 with a masked ball he gave in Biarritz; it vied with the Venetian masked ball given by Carlos de Beistegui in 1951 as the most elaborate fête of the decade. Franceat the time was paralyzed by general strike. No planes or trains were running. Undaunted, the international nomads, with their couturier-designed eighteenth-century costumes tucked into their steamer trunks, made their way across Europe like migrating birds to participate in the tableaux vivants at the Marquis de Cuevas’s ball, an event so extravagant that it was criticized by both the Vatican and the left wing. “People talked about it for months before,” remembered Josephine Hartford Bryce, the A&P heiress who recently donated her costume from that ball to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. “Everyone was dying to go to it. The costumes were fantastic, and people spent most of the evening just staring at each other.” As they say in those circles, “everyone” came. Elsa Maxwell dressed as a man. The Duchess of Argyll, on the arm of the duke, who would later divorce her in messiest divorce in the history of British society, came dressed as an angel. Ann Woodward, of the New York Woodwards, slapped a woman she thought was dancing too often with her husband, William, whom she was to shoot and kill two years later. King Peter of Yugoslaviawaltzed with a diamond-tiara’d Merle Oberon. And at the center of it all was the Marquis George de Cuevas, in gold lamé with a headdress of grapes and towering ostrich plumes, who presided as the King of Nature. He was surrounded by the Four Seasons, in the costumed persons of the Count Charles de Ganay, Princess Marella Caracciolo, who would soon become the wife of Fiat king Gianni Agnelli, Bessie, his daughter, and her then husband, Hubert Faure. As always, Margaret de Cuevas did the unexpected. For days beforehand, her costume designed by the great couturier Pierre Balmain, who had paid her the honor of coming to her for fittings, hung, like a presence, on a dress dummy in the hallway of the de Cuevas residence in Biarritz. But Margaret did not appear at the ball, although, of course, she paid for it. She may have been an unlikely Rockefeller, but she was still a Rockefeller, and the opulence, extravagence, and sheer size (four thousand people were asked and two thousand accepted) of the event offended her. She simply disappeared that night, and the party went on without her. She did, however, watch the arrival of the guests from a hidden location, and a much repeated, but unconfirmed, story is that she sent her maid to the ball dressed in her Balmain costume.

George de Cuevas increasingly made his life and many homes available to a series of young male worldings who enjoyed the company of older men. In the early 1950s Margaret de Cuevas purchased the town house adjoining hers on East Sixty-eighth Street in New York. The confirmation-of-sale letter from the realty firm of Douglas L. Elliman & Co. contained a cautionary line: “The Marquesa detests publicity and would appreciate it if her name weren’t divulged.” An unkind novel by Theodore Keogh, called The Double Door, depicted the marriage of George and Margaret and their teenage daughter. The double door of the title referred to that point of access between the two adjoining houses, beyond which the wife of the main character, a flamboyant nobleman, was not permitted to go, although the houses were hers. The drama of the novel revolved around the teenage daughter’s clandestine romance with one of the handsome young men beyond the double door. Inevitably, the marriage of George and Margaret de Cuevas began to founder, and for the most part they occupied their various residences at different times. They maintained close communication, however, and Margaret would often call George in Paris or Cannes from New York or Palm Beach to deal with a domestic problem. Once when the marquesa’s temperamental chef in Palm Beachbecame enraged at one of her unreasonable demands and threw her breakfast tray at her, she called her husband in Parisand asked him to call the chef and beseech him not only not to quit but also to bring her another breakfast, because she was hungry. George finally persuaded the chef to recook the breakfast, but the man refused to carry it to Margaret. A maid in the house had to do that.

At this point in the story, Raymundo de Larrain entered the picture. “Raymundo is not just a little Chilean,” said a lady of fashion in Parisabout him. “He is from one of the four greatest families in Chile. The Larrains are aristocratic people, a better family by far than the de Cuevas family.” Whatever he was, Raymundo de Larrain wanted to be something more than just another bachelor from Chileseeking extra-man status in Parissociety. He was talented, brilliant, and wildly extravagant, and soon began making a name for himself designing costumes and sets for George de Cuevas’s ballet company. A protégé of the marquis’s to start with, he soon became known as his nephew. An acquaintance who knew de Larrain at the time recalled that the card on the door of his sublet apartment first read M. Larrain. Later it became M. de Larrain. Later still it became the Marquis de Larrain.

In Bessie de Cuevas’s affidavit in the upcoming probate proceedings, she emphatically states that although various newspapers have described de Larrain as the nephew of her father and suggested that he was raised by her parents, there was no blood relation between the two men. In a letter to an American friend in Paris, she wrote, “He is not my father’s nephew. I think he planted the word long ago in Suzy’s column. If there is any relationship at all, it is so remote as to be meaningless.” Yet as recently as November, when I spoke with de Larrain in Palm Beach, he referred to George de Cuevas as “my uncle.” The fact of the matter is that Raymundo de Larrain has been described as a de Cuevas nephew and has been using the title of marquis for years, and he was on a familiar basis with all members of the de Cuevas family. Longtime acquaintances in Parisremember Raymundo calling Margaret de Cuevas Tante Margaret or, sometimes, perhaps in levity, Tante Rockefeller. In her book The Case of Salvador Dali, Fleur Cowles described the Dali set in Parisas follows: “On May 9th, 1957, the young nephew of the Marquis de Cuevas gave a ball in honour of the Dalis. According to Maggi Nolan, the social editor of the Paris Herald-Tribune, the Marquis Raymundo de Larrain’s ball was ‘unforgettable’ in the apartment which has been converted … into a vast party confection,” with “the most fabulous gala-attired members of international society.” Fleur Cowles then went on to list the guests, including in their number the Marquis de Cuevas himself, without his wife, and M. and Mme. Hubert Faure, his daughter and son-in-law. Although Cowles did not say so, George de Cuevas almost certainly paid for Raymundo’s ball.

Along the way de Larrain met the Viscountess Jacqueline de Ribes, one of the grandest ladies in Paris society and a ballet enthusiast to boot. “Before Jacqueline, no one had ever heard of Raymundo de Larrain except as a nephew of de Cuevas. Jacqueline was his stepping-stone into society,” said another lady of international social fame who did not wish to be identified. The viscountess became an early admirer of his talent, and they entered into a close relationship that was to continue for years, sharing an interest in clothes and fashion as well as the ballet. Raymundo de Larrain is said to have made Jacqueline de Ribes over and given her the look that has remained her trademark for several decades. A famous photograph taken by Richard Avedon in 1961 shows the two of them in exotic matching profiles. At a charity party in New York known as the Embassy Hall, chaired by the Viscountess de Ribes, Mrs. Winston Guest, and the American-born Princess d’Arenberg, Raymundo de Larrain’s fantastical butterfly décor was so extravagant that there was no money left for the charity that was meant to benefit from the event. In time the viscountess became known as the godmother of the ballet, and she, more than any other person, pushed the career of Raymundo de Larrain.

After the publication of The Double Door, the de Cuevases were often the subject of gossip in the sophisticated society in which they moved, but somehow they had the ability to keep scandal within the family perimeter. The relationship of both husband and wife with the unsavory Jan de Vroom, however, almost caused their peculiar habits to be open to public scrutiny. A family member said to me that at this point in Margaret de Cuevas’s life she fell into a nest of vipers. Born in Dutch Indonesia, Jan de Vroom was a tall, blond adventurer who dominated drawing rooms by sheer force of personality rather than good looks. A wit, a storyteller, and a linguist, he had an eye for the main chance, and like a great many young men before him looking for the easy ride, he attached himself to George de Cuevas. De Vroom was quick to realize on which side the bread was buttered in the de Cuevas household, and, to the distress of the marquis, who soon grew to distrust him, he shifted his attentions to Margaret, whom he followed to theUnited States. At first Margaret was not disposed to like him, but, undeterred by her initial snubs, he schooled himself in Mozart, whom he knew to be her favorite composer, and soon found favor with her as a fellow Mozart addict. He got a small apartment in a brownstone a few blocks from Margaret’s houses on East Sixty-eighth Streetand was always available when she needed a companion for dinner. She set him up in business, as an importer of Italian glass and lamps. From Europe, George de Cuevas tried to break up the deepening intimacy, but Margaret, egged on by her friend Florence Gould, ignored her husband’s protests. As the friendship grew, so did de Vroom’s store of acquisitions. He was a sportsman, and through Margaret de Cuevas’s bounty he soon owned a sleek sailing boat, a fleet of Ferrari cars, a Rolls Royce, and—briefly, until it crashed—an airplane. He also acquired an important collection of rare watches.

Raymundo de Larrain and Jan de Vroom detested each other, and Jan, in the years when he was in favor with Margaret, refused to have Raymundo around. De Vroom had no wish to join the ranks of men who made their fortune at the altar; he was content to play the role of son to Margaret, a sort of naughty-boy son whose peccadilloes she easily forgave. A mixer in the darker worlds of New York and Florida, he entertained her with stories of his subterranean adventures. Often, in her own homes, she would be the only woman present at a dining table full of men who were disinterested in women.

In 1960 the Marquis de Cuevas, in failing health, offered Raymundo de Larrain, with whom he was now on the closest terms, the chance to create a whole new production of The Sleeping Beauty, to be performed at the Théâtre de Champs-Élysées. De Larrain’s Sleeping Beauty is still remembered as one of the most beautiful ballet productions of all time, and it was the greatest box-office success the company had ever experienced. The marquis was permitted by his physicians to attend the premiere. “If I am going to die, I will die backstage,” he said. After the performance he was pushed out onto the stage in a wheelchair and received a standing ovation. George de Cuevas attended every performance up until two weeks before his death. He died at his favorite of the many de Cuevas homes, Les Délices, in Cannes, on February 22, 1961. Margaret, who was in New York, did not visit her husband of thirty-three years in the months of his decline. In his will George left the house in Cannesto his Argentinean secretary, Horacio Guerrico, but Margaret was displeased with her husband’s bequest and managed to get the house back from the secretary in exchange for money and several objects of value.

Although Margaret had never truly shared her husband’s passion for the ballet, or for the ballet company bearing his name, which she had financed for so many years, she did not immediately disband it after his death. Instead she appointed Raymundo de Larrain the new head of the company. There was always a sense of dilettantism about George de Cuevas’s role as a Maecenas of the dance—not dissimilar to the role Rebekah Harkness would later play with her ballet company. The taste and caprices of the marquis determined the policy of the company, which relied on the box-office appeal of big-star names. This same sense of dilettantism carried over into de Larrain’s contribution. The de Cuevas company has been described to me by one balletomane as ballet for people who normally despise ballet, ballet for society audiences, as opposed to dance audiences.

De Larrain’s stewardship of the company was brief but not undramatic. In June 1961 he played a significant role in the political defection of Rudolf Nureyev at the Parisairport when the Kirov Ballet of Leningrad was leaving France. The story has become romanticized over the years, and everyone’s version of it differs. According to de Larrain, Nureyev had confessed to Clara Saint, a half-Chilean, half-Argentinean friend of de Larrain’s, that he would rather commit suicide than go back to Russia. In one account, Clara Saint, feigning undying love for the departing star, screamed out to Nureyev that she must have one more kiss from him before he boarded the plane and returned to his homeland. Nureyev went back to kiss her, jumped over the barriers, and escaped in a waiting car as the plane carrying the company took off. De Larrain says that Clara Saint had alerted the French authorities that there was going to be a defection, and she advised Nureyev during a farewell drink at the airport bar that he must ask the French police at the departure gate for political asylum. He says that Nureyev spat in the face of the Russian security official. For a while Nureyev lived in de Larrain’s Parisapartment, and the first time he danced after his defection was for the de Cuevas company, in de Larrain’s production of The Sleeping Beauty. “He danced like a god, but he also had a spectacular story,” de Larrain told me. At one of his first performances the balcony was filled with Communists, who pelted the stage with tomatoes and almost caused a riot. People who were present that night remember that Nureyev continued to dance through the barrage, as if he were unaware of the commotion, until the performance was finally halted.

In Raymundo de Larrain’s affidavit for the probate, he assesses his role in Nureyev’s career in an I’m-not-nobody tone: “With the help of Margaret de Cuevas we made him into one of the biggest stars in the history of ballet.” The professional association between de Larrain and Nureyev, which might have saved the de Cuevas ballet, did not last, just as most of de Larrain’s professional associations did not last. “Raymundo and Rudolf did not have the same point of view on beauty and the theater, and they fought,” explained the Viscountess de Ribes in Paris recently. “Raymundo had great talent and tremendous imagination. He had the talent to be a stage director, but neither the health nor the courage to fight. He was very unrealistic. He didn’t know how to talk to people. He was too grand. What Raymundo is is a total aesthete, not an intellectual. He wanted to live around beautiful things. He was very generous and gave beautiful presents. Even the smallest gift he ever gave me was perfect, absolutely perfect,” she said. Another friend of de Larrain’s said, “Raymundo had more taste and knowledge of dancing than anyone. His problem was that he was unprofessional. He couldn’t get along with people. He had no discipline over himself.” When the Marquesa de Cuevas decided in 1962 not to underwrite the ballet company any longer, it was disbanded. Then, under the sponsorship of the Viscountess de Ribes, de Larrain formed his own ballet company. He began by producing and directing Cinderella, in which he featured Geraldine Chaplin in a modest but much publicized role. The Viscountess, however, couldn’t afford for long to underwrite a ballet company, and withdrew after two years. Raymundo de Larrain then took to photographing celebrities for Vogue, Town & Country, and Life. His friends say that he had one obsession: to “make it” in the eyes of his family back in Chile. He mailed every newspaper clipping about himself to his mother, for whom, de Ribes says, “he had a passion.”

For years Margaret de Cuevas’s physical appearance had been deteriorating. Never the slightest bit interested in fashion or style, she began to assume the look of what has been described to me by some as a millionairess bag lady and by others as the Madwoman of Chaillot. “Before Fellini she was Fellini,” said Count Vega del Ren about her, but other assessments were less romantic. Her nails were uncared for. Her teeth were in a deplorable state. She had knee problems that gave her difficulty in walking. She covered her face with a white paste and white powder, and she blackened her eyes in an eccentric way that made people think she had put her thumb and fingers in a full ashtray and rubbed them around her eyes. Her hair was dyed black with reddish tinges, and around her head she always wore a black net scarf, which she tied beneath her chin. She wrapped handkerchiefs and ribbons around her wrists to hide her diamonds, and her black dresses were frequently stained with food and spilled white powder and held together with safety pins. For shoes she wore either sneakers or a pair of pink polyester bedroom slippers, which were very often on the wrong feet. Her lateness had reached a point where dinner guests would sit for several hours waiting for her to make an appearance, while Marcel, her butler of forty-five years, would pass them five or six times, carrying a martini on a silver tray to the marquesa’s room. “She drank much too much for an old lady,” one of her frequent guests told me. Finally her arrival for dinner would be heralded by the barking of her Pekingese dogs, and she would enter the dining room preceded by her favorite of them, Happy, who had a twisted neck and a glass eye and walked with a limp as the result of a stroke.

Her behavior also was increasingly eccentric. In her bedroom she had ten radios sitting on tables and chests of drawers. Each radio was set to a different music station—country-and-western, rock ’n’ roll, classical—and when she wanted to hear music she would ring for Marcel and point to the radio she wished him to turn on. For years she paid for rooms at the Westbury Hotel for a group of White Russians she had taken under her wing.

In the meantime Jan de Vroom had grown increasingly alcoholic and pill-dependant. “If someone’s eyes are dilated, does that mean they’re taking drugs?” Margaret asked a friend of de Vroom’s. “I’ve been too kind to him. I’ve spoiled him.” Young men—mostly hustlers and drug dealers—paraded in and out of his apartment at all hours of the day and night. In 1973 two hustlers, whom he knew, rang the bell of his New York apartment. On a previous visit they had asked him for a loan of $2,000, and he had refused. When de Vroom answered the bell, they sent up a thug to frighten him and demand money again. Jan de Vroom, in keeping with his character, aggravated the thug and incited him to rage. A French houseguest found his body: his throat had been cut, and he had been stabbed over and over again. Although he was known to be the person closest to Margaret de Cuevas at that time in her life, her name was not brought into any of the lurid accounts of his murder in the tabloid papers. De Vroom’s body, covered from the chin down to conceal his slit throat, lay in an open casket in the Westbury Room of the Frank E. Campbell Funeral Chapel at Madison Avenue and Eighty-first Street. Except for a few of the curious, there were no visitors. A little-known fact of the sordid situation was that, through the intercession of Margaret de Cuevas, the body was laid to rest in the Rockefeller cemetery in Pocantico Hills, the family estate, although subsequently it was shipped to Holland. The killers were caught and tried. There was no public outcry over the unsavory killing, and they received brief sentences. It is said that one of them still frequents the bars in New York.

Into this void in the life of the Marquesa Margaret de Cuevas moved Raymundo de Larrain. People meeting Margaret de Cuevas for the first time at this point were inclined to think that the cultivated lady was not intelligent, because she was unable to converse in the way people in society converse, and they suspected that she might be combining sedatives and drink. The same people are uniform in their praise of Raymundo de Larrain during this time. For parties at her house in New York, Raymundo would invite the guests and order the food and arrange the flowers, in much the same way that her late husband had during their marriage, and no one would argue the point that Raymundo surrounded her with a better crowd of people than Jan de Vroom ever had. He would choreograph a steady stream of handpicked guests to Margaret’s side during the evening. “ ‘Go and sit with Tante Margaret and talk with her, and I will send someone over in ten minutes to relieve you,’ ” a frequent guest told me he used to say. “He was lovely to her.” Another view of Raymundo at this time came from a New Yorklady who also visited the house: “He was so talented, Raymundo. Such a sense of fantasy. But he got sidetracked into moneygrubbing.” Whatever the interpretation, Margaret de Cuevas and Raymundo became the Harold and Maude of the Upper East Side and Palm Beach. Bessie de Cuevas, in her affidavit, acknowledges that “Raymundo was always attentive and extremely helpful to my mother, particularly in her social life, which consisted almost exclusively of gatherings and entertainments at her various residences.”

On April 25, 1977, at the oceanfront estate of Mr. and Mrs. Wilson C. Lucom in Palm Beach, the Marquesa Margaret de Cuevas, then eighty years old, married Raymundo de Larrain, then forty-two, in a hastily arranged surprise ceremony. The wedding was such a closely guarded secret that Margaret de Cuevas’s children, Bessie and John, did not know of it until they read about it in Suzy’s column in the New York Daily News. Bessie de Cuevas’s friends say that she felt betrayed by Raymundo because he had not told her of his plans to marry her mother. Among the prominent guests present at the wedding were Rose Kennedy, Mrs. Winston Guest, and Mary Sanford, known as the queen of Palm Beach, who that night gave the newlyweds a wedding reception at her estate. In her affidavit Bessie de Cuevas states, “I had visited with my mother at some length at her home in New Yorkjust about two months before. She was clearly aging but we talked along quite well about personal and family things. She said she would be leaving soon to spend some time at her home in Florida. She did not in any way suggest that she was considering getting married. After I read the article, I called her at once in Florida. She could only speak briefly and seemed vague. I assured her that of course my brother John and I wanted anything that would make her comfortable and happy, but why, I asked, did she do it this way. Her reply was simply, ‘It just happened.’ ”

Wilson C. Lucom, the host of the wedding, was also married to an older woman, the since deceased Willys-Overland automobile heiress Virginia Willys. Lucom, who had trained as a lawyer, never practiced law, but had served on the staff of the law secretary of state Edward Stettinius. Shortly after the wedding, in response to an inquiry from the Rockefeller family, he sent a Mailgram to John D. Rockefeller III, the first cousin of Margaret Strong de Cuevas de Larrain, stating his position as the representative of the marquesa and now of de Larrain. “Do not worry about her or be concerned about any rumors you may have heard,” the Mailgram read. “She was married at our house with my wife and myself as witnesses. It was a solemn ceremony, and she was highly competent and knew precisely that she was being married and did so of her own free will being of sound mind.” Bessie de Cuevas says in her affidavit, “I had never met or heard my mother speak of Mr. Lucom.”

For the wedding, Raymundo told friends, he gave his bride a wheelchair and new teeth. He also supervised a transformation of her appearance. “You must understand this: Raymundo cleaned Margaret up. Why, her nails were manicured for the first time in years.” He got rid of the white makeup and blackened eyes, and he supervised her hair, nails, cosmetics, and dress. “Margaret was never better cared for” is a remark made over and over about her after her marriage. De Larrain would invite people to lunch or for drinks and wheel her out to greet her guests; he basked in the compliments paid to his wife on her new appearance. However, lawyers for the Chase Manhattan Bank, which represents Bessie and John de Cuevas’s interests, told me that the two health-care professionals who cared for the marquesa at different times in 1980 and 1982 recalled that de Larrain did not spend much time with his wife, and that she would often ask about him. But when attention was paid by him, it would be lavish; he would send roses in great quantity or do her makeup. Since he had arranged it so that no one would become close to his wife, “she was particularly vulnerable to such displays of charm and affection.” During her second marriage, she became known as Margaret Rockefeller de Larrain. Although this was illustrious-sounding, it was incorrect, for it implied that she was born Margaret Rockefeller rather than Margaret Strong. “The snobbishness and enhancement were de Larrain’s,” sniffed a friend of her daughter’s.

Shortly after the marriage, Sylvia de Cuevas, the then wife of John de Cuevas, took the marquesa’s two granddaughters to visit her in Palm Beach. She says she was stopped at the front door by an armed guard, who would not let them enter until permission was granted by Raymundo. Soon other changes began to take place. Old servants who had been with the marquesa for years, including her favorite, Marcel, were fired by de Larrain. Bessie de Cuevas claims in her affidavit that he accused them of stealing and other misdeeds. Long-term relationships with lawyers and accountants were severed. Copies of correspondence to the marquesa from Richard Weldon, her lawyer for many years, reflect that her directives to them were so unlike her usual method of communication that they questioned the authority of the letters. Shortly thereafter both men were replaced.

Another longtime secretary, Lillian Grappone, told Bessie de Cuevas that her mother had complained of the fact that there were constantly new faces around her. During this period the many houses of the marquesa were sold or given to charity, among them her two houses on East Sixty-eighth Streetin New York, which had always been her favorite as well as her principal residence. Bessie de Cuevas claims in her affidavit that her mother sometimes could not recall signing anything to effect the transfer of these houses. At other times she would talk as if she could get them back. On one occasion she acknowledged having signed away the houses but said she had been talked into it at a time when she was not feeling well. Her father’s villa in Fiesole, where she had grown up, was given to GeorgetownUniversity. The house in Cannes was given to Bessie and John de Cuevas. Her official residence was moved from New York to Florida, but she was moved out of her house of many years on El Bravo Way in Palm Beach to a condominium on South Ocean Boulevard. Several people who visited her at the condominium said that she seemed confused as to why she should be living there instead of in her own house. Other friends explain the move as a practical one: the house on El Bravo Way was an old Spanish-style one on several floors and many levels, badly in need of repair, and for an invalid in a wheelchair life was simpler in the one-floor apartment.

During this period the financial affairs of the marquesa were handled more and more by Wilson C. Lucom, the host at the wedding. Bessie de Cuevas states in her affidavit, “I think my mother’s belief that Lucom would safeguard her interests against de Larrain only highlights her lack of appreciation for the reality of her circumstances.” Bessie de Cuevas tells of an occasion when she visited her mother at the Palm Beach condominium and Lucom “taunted” her by boasting that he and de Larrain were drinking “Rockefeller champagne.” “My mother’s total dependence on de Larrain is reflected in an explanation she gave for why she did not accompany de Larrain to Paris on a trip he made concerning her holdings there. De Larrain told her no American carrier flew to Paris any longer, and since my mother did not care for Air France, it was best for her not to go. Plainly, my mother had lost any independent touch with the real world.”

Access to her mother became more and more difficult for Bessie de Cuevas. When she called, she was told her mother could not come to the telephone. Some friends who visited the marquesa say that she would complain that she never heard from her daughter. Others say that messages left by Bessie were never given to her. In 1982 Raymundo de Larrain took his wife out of the country, and they began what lawyers representing the de Cuevases’ interests call an “itinerant existence.” She never returned. They went first to Switzerland, then to Chile, where he was from and where they had built a house, and finally to Madrid, where de Larrain was made the cultural attaché at the Chilean Embassy. There Margaret died in a hotel room in 1985. Bessie de Cuevas saw her mother for the last time a few weeks before she died. Neither Bessie nor her brother has any idea where she is buried.

Certainly there was trouble between the Rockefeller family and the newlywed de Larrains from the time of the marriage. After the change of residence from New York to Florida, David Rockefeller urged his cousin to donate her two town houses at 52 and 54 East Sixty-eighth Streetto an institution supported by the Rockefeller family called the Center for Inter-American Relations. The appraisal of the two houses was arranged by David Rockefeller, and the appraiser had been in the employ of the Rockefellers for years. He evaluated the two houses at $725,000. Subsequently Margaret de Larrain was distressed to hear that these properties, which she had donated to the Center for Inter-American Relations, were later sold to another favorite Rockefeller forum, the Council on Foreign Relations, for more than twice the amount of money they had been appraised at.

Raymundo de Larrain, in his affidavit for the probate proceedings, says that his wife’s male Rockefeller cousins discriminated against the females of the family. “Not only did her cousin-trustee [John D. Rockefeller III] want to dominate her life and tell her how to spend her trust income, but wanted also to dictate and approve how she spent her non-trust personal principal and income. My wife strongly resented their intrusion in her personal life.… Her position was that her money was hers outright, not part of her trust, and that she and she alone was to decide how she spent it or what gifts she—not they—would make.” Late in the affidavit, de Larrain says that his wife’s trustees “wanted her to give virtually all her personal wealth away to her children long before she even thought of dying. Then they would control her through their control of her trust income.”

De Larrain said that his wife had been generous with her two children, but that they were not satisfied with her gifts of millions to them. “They wanted more and more.” After giving her children more than $7 million, she refused to transfer her personal wealth to them. Even after her gift of $7 million, he claimed, the trustees cut her trust income. “My wife was shocked and distressed at the unjust and cruel and illegal actions of the cousin-trustees in pressuring her to give millions to her children and then breaking their agreement not to cut her trust income. This further alienated her from her family. She felt cheated and a victim of a plan by the family and the Chase Manhattan Bank.”

On February 21,1978, a year after her marriage, Margaret de Larrain, at age eighty-one, revoked all prior wills and codicils executed by her. “I have personally destroyed the original wills in my possession, namely, two original wills dated February 14, 1941, and an original will dated April 26, 1950, and an original will dated May 14, 1956, and an original will dated May 17,1968, and an original will dated June 11, 1968.” Thereafter, Margaret de Larrain added two codicils to a new will of November 20, 1980. In the first, she stated that she had already transferred her fortune to her husband, and she made him the sole beneficiary and sole personal representative of her estate. In the second, she expressed her specific wish that her only two children and two grandchildren receive nothing. De Larrain ended his affidavit with this statement: “There is also abundant testimony that my wife was entirely competent when she later added the two codicils which expressed that she wanted to give the property to me, her husband. She did this because her children neglected her and she had provided abundantly for them in her lifetime by giving them approximately $7 million in gifts.”

It might be added that Margaret’s will did not set a precedent in the stodgy Rockefeller family. Her mother’s sister Edith Rockefeller McCormick, who divorced her husband, Henry Fowler McCormick, heir to the International Harvester fortune, and then engaged in a series of flamboyant affairs with male secretaries which caused her father great embarrassment, in 1932 bequeathed half of her fortune to a Swiss secretary.

Pending the upcoming court case, Raymundo de Larrain has dropped out of public view. When he is in Paris, he lives at the Meurice hotel, but even his closest friends there, including the Viscountess de Ribes, do not hear from him, and he has dropped completely out of the smart social life that he once pursued so vigorously. On encountering Hubert Faure, the first husband of Bessie de Cuevas, in the bar of the Meurice recently, he turned his back on him. In Madridhe stays sometimes at the Palace Hotel and sometimes at less well known ones. He has been seen dining alone in restaurants there. Sometimes he nods to former acquaintances, but he makes no attempt to renew friendships. He has also been seen in Rabat and Lausanne. In the past year he has made two substantial gifts to charity. He gave a check for $500,000 to GeorgetownUniversityto supplement the gift of his late wife’s father’s villa in Fiesoleto Georgetown. “You have to figure that if Raymundo gave a million dollars to the Spanish Institute before the trial, he must have already squirreled away at least $10 million,” said a dubious Raymundo follower in Paris recently.

This is not a sad story. The deprived will not go hungry. If the courts are able to ascertain what happened to Margaret Strong de Cuevas de Larrain’s fortune in the years of her marriage and to decide on an equitable distribution of her wealth, already rich people will get richer. As a woman friend of Raymundo de Larrain’s said to me recently, “Raymundo will be bad in court, nervous and insecure. If there’s a jury, the jury won’t like him.” She thought a bit and then added, “It’s only going to end up wrong. If you don’t behave correctly, nothing turns out well. I mean, would you like to fight the Rockefellers, darling?”

Dominick Dunne is a best-selling author and special correspondent for Vanity Fair. His diary is a mainstay of the magazine.


The Panama Hat.

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A Panama hat (toquilla straw hat) is a traditional brimmed straw hat of Ecuadorian origin. Traditionally, hats were made from the plaited leaves of the Carludovica palmata plant, known locally as the toquilla palm or jipijapa palm, although it is a palm-like plant rather than a true palm.

Panamahats are light-colored, lightweight, and breathable, and often worn as accessories to summer-weight suits, such as those made of linen or silk. Beginning around the turn of the 20th century, panamas began to be associated with the seaside and tropical locales.

The art of weaving the traditional Ecuadorian toquilla hat was added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists on 6 December 2012. Panama hat is an Intangible Cultural Heritage, a term used to define practices, traditions, knowledge and skills communities pass down from generation to generation as part of their cultural heritage.
Beginning in the early to mid-1600’s hat weaving evolved as a cottage industry all along the Ecuadorian coast. Hat weaving and wearing grew steadily in Ecuador through the 17th and 18th centuries. Even then, the best quality hats were being made in what is now the province of Manabí. The finest was presented to the great French dandy, Napoleon III. From that time on, the "toquilla" has reigned supreme over the crowed heads of Europe. Straw hats woven in Ecuador, like many other 19th and early 20th century South American goods, were shipped first to the Isthmus of Panama before sailing for their destinations in Asia, the rest of the Americas and Europe, subsequently acquiring a name that reflected their point of international sale, "Panama hats", rather than their place of domestic origin. The term was being used by at least 1834.

The popularity of the hats was increased in the mid-nineteenth century by the miners of the California Gold Rush, who frequently traveled to California via the Isthmus of Panama.
In 1904, President Theodore Roosevelt of the United States visited the construction site of the Panama Canal, and was photographed wearing a Panama hat, which further increased the hats' popularity. The hats were later worn by many early-twentieth century film stars during films.

The two main processes in the creation of a Panama hat are weaving and blocking. Hats are commercially graded with numeric degrees to indicate quality, but these vary by seller. The rarest and most expensive hats can have as many as 1600–2500 weaves per square inch. These hats are known as Montecristis, after the town of Montecristi, where they are produced. The Montecristi Foundation has established a grading system based on a figure called the Montecristi Cuenta, calculated by measuring the horizontal and vertical rows of weave per inch.

A "superfino" Panama hat can, according to popular rumor, hold water, and when rolled for storage, pass through a wedding ring.


Although the Panama hat continues to provide a livelihood for thousands of Ecuadorians, fewer than a dozen weavers capable of making the finest "Montecristi superfinos" remain. Production in Ecuador is dwindling, due to economic problems in Ecuadorand competition from Chinese hat producers.





The Panama Hat: A Legend, a Lifestyle

Authentic Panama hats have a rich and fascinating history. As unique as the artisans who create these hand-woven, stylish hats, each Panama hat combines natural resources of Ecuador with a long tradition of South American culture.
Most people don’t know that the Panama hat actually originated in Ecuador, not Panama, as the name suggests.
In the 16th century when Spaniards first arrived in South America, they found native people wearing head coverings made of straw from the carludovica palmata plant. Spaniards encouraged locals to produce Spanish-influenced hats and, over time, these handmade straw toquilla hats evolved into the brimmed straw hats known today as Panamahats.
But it wasn’t until the 1800s that these Ecuadorian-crafted hats made their way to Panama. Workers on the Panama Canal wore these straw hats to protect them from the hot sun and heat, while the tightly woven hat could double as a bucket to hold water. At the same time, travelers and merchants began purchasing the hats at Panamanian ports and the “Panama” hats began to make their way across the world. The Panama hat first marked its place in history when it was showcased at the at the World Fair in Paris in the mid-1800s, receiving worldwide attention and becoming the defining fashion accessory for the elite.
Today, the legendary genuine Panama hat continues to be made of toquilla palm, and the very finest Panama hats are hand-crafted by artisans in the small town of Montecristi, Ecuador. Each hat is unique and can take from one to six months for a true master weaver to complete, adding to the Panama hat’s mystique and universal appeal.
With its long history, the traditional art of hand-weaving toquilla hats has been passed down for generations and continues to receive world attention. UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) recently recognized the Ecuadorian art of weaving a genuine Panama hat as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, a term used to define practices, traditions, knowledge and skills communities pass down from generation to generation as part of their cultural heritage.
For years, Panamahats have been worn by trendsetters worldwide such as notable world leaders Winston Churchill and Nikita Khrushchev, European royalty, international celebrities, and U.S. Presidents such as Harry Truman and Theodore Roosevelt – who appeared in a New York Times photo wearing a Panama hat on a visit to the Panama Canalconstruction site in 1906. Panamahats are as much a legend as the extraordinary men and women who have donned them to make them popular.
The Panama hat remains at the forefront of fashion today worn by numerous world figures, movie actors, celebrities, intellectuals, writers, painters, socialites, and others all over the world.









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