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Remembering Mark Birley and the controversial sale.

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Obituaries
Mark Birley
Proprietor of private members' clubs who established a luxury brand with Annabel's, Mark's and Harry's Bar

Sunday 18 September 2011

Marcus Lecky Oswald Hornby Birley, club proprietor and businessman: born 29 May 1930; married 1954 Lady Annabel Vane-Tempest-Stewart (one son, one daughter, and one son deceased; marriage dissolved 1975); died London 24 August 2007.

Mark Birley had an unerring eye for the rightness of things: the shape of a room, the height of a table, the springing of an arch, the fall of a curtain and proper presentation of food. From his lofty perch – he stood 6ft 5in in his immaculately-cobbled shoes – nothing, whether a permanent or passing feature, escaped his glance.

It was this perfectionist perspective that made the private members' clubs he founded in London – Annabel's, Mark's and Harry's Bar principal among them – the finest of their kind in the world. And which made them last as long as they have. The Birley clubs have been the most sought after – for their setting, service and clientele – since the first of them, Annabel's, was opened as a night club in 1963. Collectively, they represented a grande luxe brand as impeccable as long-established names such as Cartier, Bulgari and Louis Vuitton.

At first, Birley had had modest ambitions for his first venture. He had worked in advertising, art-directing the Horlicks account for J. Walter Thompson in the early Fifties, and later for the French luxury-goods maker Hermes, while he and his wife, Lady Annabel Vane-Tempest-Stewart, brought up their young family. In December 1961, he was offered the lease of the basement of 44 Berkeley Square, in Mayfair, by their friend John Aspinall. Upstairs at 44, Aspinall was restoring William Kent's exquisite Palladian interior with the collaboration of the architect Philip Jebb and the decorator John Fowler, making it the setting for the Clermont Club, gaming den for London's high rollers. It was a restoration project that set new standards for post-war London.

Accepting the lease of the basement, just two rooms deep, Birley thought of setting up a small piano bar. He took on Jebb as his architect, but did not invite the imperious Fowler on board, getting help with the decoration from the Peruvian artist Pedro Leito. Birley had all the talents to be his own decorator, or indeed his own architect, and when he invited collaboration it was with sympathetic partners. Jebb, like Birley still in his early thirties, had already done extensive interiors work in London, turning Belgravia houses into flats for Birley's friend Douglas Wilson. Jebb suggested to Birley that they should extend the basement as far back as 44 Hay's Mews by digging out the garden, involving the hand-barrowing of tons of London clay.

The nascent piano bar could thus become a full-blown night-club. It was named after Annabel Birley. The club has always been a striking spacial experience, at once intimate but theatrical. The visitor comes down the area steps, under a heavy blue and gold awning, and into a small lobby. From here a carefully modulated spinal corridor runs to the dance floor at the back, passing the Buddha room on the left side, the private dining room on the other, and the main bar and dining area.

Mark and Annabel Birley, one of the most glamorous married couples in London, attracted a raft of their upper-crust friends to be founding members. The club was an immediate success, and became a great meeting place for swinging London, but no one thought the place would stay open for more than a short period, still less for 44 years and counting. The Clermont and Annabel's made 44 Berkeley Square the grandest evening-out address in London. Sadly, Birley and Aspinall fell out in tumultuous fashion over Aspinall's wish to use part of the basement as a wine cellar for the Clermont. Aspinall recalled that the sole witness of their argument described Birley as red with anger and Aspinall white with rage. There remained a lasting chill between them, although the two men were, according to Aspinall, in friendly contact by letter in the years before Aspinall's death in 2000.

Birley's secret was day-to-day presence; being on hand to make decisions as Annabel's became established. As he told the writer Naim Attalah in 1989:

It's not so much perfectionism I'm after in the way I run Annabel's, as the way I think things ought to be. I just want to get everything right in the way I think to be best. Of course it is a matter of going on and for years and staying interested enough to try to improve things. I'm not good on committees. One of my failings is a lack of patience. I'm used to taking my own decisions... That rather autocratic way of running things has advantages and disadvantages but one of the main advantages is that makes for speed and makes your employees happier I think. They like somebody who can say yes or no.

At Annabel's, Birley never let things stand still. A private dining room was added, and a new bar. And all the time, under the watchful gaze of the superb maître d'hôtel Louis, staff remained discreet about the members' private liaisons. As the writer Candida Lycett Green recalled, everyone at the club was slightly in love with Birley

It's something about his elusiveness; the way he looks so inexorably sad; the way his suits are immaculately cut; the way his eye for a picture never falters and a certain wild bohemianism hovers in his closet.

That artist's eye, that sense of that lurking bohemianism, was Birley's heritage as the son of the portrait painter Sir Oswald Birley and his redoubtable wife Rhoda Pike. Sir Oswald was the favourite artist of the royal family, society figures, and of Winston Churchill, with whom he spent painting holidays. The Birleys were patrons of the Russian ballet. They had a Clough Williams-Ellis villa in St John's Wood, and Charleston Manor, a perfect small Georgian house near West Dean in Sussex.

Mark was educated at Eton, and spent one year at Oxford, where his future wife first encountered him, and was struck by his youthful air of languid self-possession. In London, they met again, and Annabel noticed Mark "swirling deb after deb" around the dance floor. They fell in love at Queen's ice-skating rink, were married in 1954, and their first son, Rupert, was born in 1955.

One of their first married homes was the exquisite Pelham Cottage, half of a hidden Georgian farmhouse close to South Kensington tube station. Mark took charge of the alterations to the house, one of his earliest collaborations with the architect Philip Jebb.

Birley and Jebb started work on a second club, Mark's, at 46 Charles Street, around the corner from Annabel's in 1969. Mark's is a hushed lunching and dining club, in a converted Edwardian townhouse. In 1975 Birley took a lease on a former wine merchant's shop at 26 South Audley Street, 200 yards northwest of Annabel's. Here, he and Jebb created Harry's Bar. The name came from the famous Cipriani hostelry in Venice. But, in Birley's view, his was a far more ambitious undertaking.

His Harry's Bar was to be a meeting place, a private restaurant for the special Birley clientele. The dining room there, he felt, was the most beautiful room he had created thus far. The special feature is its low seating, and the spacing of the tables, all to generate the feel of an alfresco meal. The opening of Harry's Bar was probably Birley's apotheosis, where he and his friends brought the Birley brand to its highest pitch. Afterwards Birley created George, another dining club, and the Bath & Racquets Club, a gentleman's gymnasium.

Birley was courted by many international associates who wanted him to take Annabel's international. There was a hotel project in Malta; approaches to create an Annabel's in Hong Kong, another in Mexico City; the Ritz in Paris asked him to set up an English bar. None of these projects came to fruition. And probably just as well, as Birley knew that the success of his brand depended on detailed personal supervision, something that would have suffered with any sort of international spread to his empire.

Birley widened his net from clubs to shops in London: an interiors emporium in Pimlico Road, in collaboration with the decorator Nina Campbell, in 1973, and Birley & Goodhuis, a cigar and wine shop, in the Fulham Road in 1978.

His son Robin added to the family brand when he opened his first Birley's sandwich bar in Shepherd Market, Mayfair. The business really took off when Robin launched branches in the City of London soon after, but from the first his menu of exotic, good ingredients, hand-assembled with edible bread, revolutionised lunchtime eating in London. It has been much imitated globally.

Mark Birley was a friend and patron of artists: his mother's contemporary Adrian Daintrey; the glass engraver Lawrence Whistler; and the portraitist John Ward. In 1983 Ward produced a triptych of the founding members of Annabel's to mark the club's 20th anniversary. Birley liked cars. When Annabel's held a members' raffle in the early days, the first prize was an Aston Martin DBS. In the 1970 World Cup rally, from London to Mexico, he co-piloted a Mercedes with the racing driver Innes Ireland. And they led during the early European stages, until their brake fluid boiled, the car became undriveable, and their race ended, Birley at the wheel, nosefirst against a roadside tree.

For all his old-Etonian bon ton corrrectness, Birley had something raffish, self-branding and up-to-date about him. His cars, all with an MBA number plate, could be seen parked outside his office or his house. His transatlantic social life meant he kept abreast of new trends in the Seventies and Eighties, sporting a Sony Walkman or working out with weights before either had become universal phenomena. Throughout these years, young men on the make in banking or property aped his manners in the hope of finding social prominence.

For the past four decades he lived at a series of houses in South Kensington: first Pelham Cottage; a house around the corner in Pelham Street after he and Annabel were separated (they divorced in 1975, when she married the business magnate Sir James Goldsmith); and Thurloe Lodge, opposite Brompton Oratory, his final home.

At Thurloe Lodge there was much work to be done. At first Birley perched in a small sitting room, and he and Jebb did up rooms in turn as money allowed. Jebb brought Birley back into contact with Tavener & Co, London's leading builders and joiners. The firm had done work for Sir Oswald and Lady Birley, and the brilliant Roger Tavener – part of the Beatles circle and brother and backer of the composer John – thus became the third generation of his family to work with the Birley clan.

In Birley's houses, as much as in his clubs, there were multiple reminders that he was the son of two artists. At Thurloe Lodge, in its well-set, square drawing room, he made a marvellous setpiece, where his hanging of Edwardian art was all of a kind. In its homogenous initial impact it was as arresting as any comparable drawing room in London: Sir Brinsley Ford's salon of Richard Wilson landscapes in Mayfair; Lady Diana Cooper's run of portraits of herself by Ricketts, Shannon and McEvoy in Warwick Avenue; or Linley Sambourne's room of his own drawings for Punch magazine, now preserved as museum in Stafford Terrace, Kensington.

Birley suffered a shattering blow in 1986 when his son Rupert disappeared while taking a morning swim while working in Lomé, west Africa. His body was never recovered. Birley organised an emotional funeral at St James's Piccadilly, where the singing of the Inspirational Choir made a heartbreaking occasion more moving still.

Towards the end of his life, Mark Birley was regularly in ill-health, and spent long periods in the Cromwell Hospital. He passed the running of Annabel's to his children Robin and India Jane, who did much to revive the membership of the venerable flagship. In June, the entire Birley fleet of clubs was sold for a reported £90m. The Birley brand had remained intact to the end.

Louis Jebb


Mark Birley's art treasures for auction

The contents of the Annabel's club owner Mark Birley's house are coming up for sale at Sotheby's, six years after his death

By Matthew Dennison8:00AM GMT 26 Jan 2013
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/9824189/Mark-Birleys-art-treasures-for-auction.html

Lucian Freud once admitted that he had considered Mark Birley – son of the society portraitist Oswald Birley, Old Etonian doyen of smart London nightclubs, brother of Maxime de la Falaise and, famously, cuckold of Jimmy Goldsmith – 'a very cold man' until he went to his house.
The house in question stands four square and early Victorian, of dun-coloured brick leavened with wisteria, opposite the Brompton Oratory, a stone's throw from the Victoria and Albert Museum and Harrods. It was Mark Birley's home for nearly 30 years, until his death in 2007. Externally unrevealing, architecturally decorous, discreetly, expensively elegant, Thurloe Lodge appears a reflection of Birley himself: understatedly urbane, debonair. Perhaps, even, at a push… cold. Internally, however, in Birley's day the house presented a different portrait of its owner from that offered to the passer-by, revealing in comfortable, suggestively opulent interiors that warmth which surprised Freud. Its plumply upholstered rooms, densely hung with pictures and crowded with objects, betrayed a sensuousness at odds with that aloofness bordering on curmudgeonliness detected by Birley's detractors: bronzes, china and masses of fresh flowers coalesced into a backdrop more sybaritic than spartan.
This spring, 50 years after the opening of Birley's first and best-known club, Annabel's, and a year on from the sale of Thurloe Lodge itself, the contents of the house will be offered for sale by Sotheby's. Lots include paintings by Augustus John and William Orpen, drawings by Rossetti and David Hockney, a Mac cartoon about Annabel's originally published in the Daily Mail, and a Cartier tie pin.

Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Aggi Maretti Holding a Dog, est £15,000-20,000. Courtesy of Sotheby's

The decision to sell was taken by Birley's daughter, the artist India Jane, for practical reasons: there is simply too much stuff to be accommodated in India Jane's own London house and her house in the country. Although she has kept a number of pieces, including a self-portrait of her grandfather and several small bronzes by Bugatti, she approaches the sale with mixed emotions. It is no secret that, following an acrimonious family rift which saw India Jane's surviving elder brother, Robin, effectively disinherited, Birley senior's chief legatee is his only grandson, India Jane's seven-year-old son, Eben. In accordance with the terms of Mark Birley's will, proceeds of the sale will be placed in trust for Eben until he attains his majority.
It is ironic that the will, which lies at the centre of the present sale, should have supplied such wellsprings of material for gossip columnists on both sides of the Atlantic. Birley's success lay in his stylish yet unassertive reinvention of London's nightlife, beginning in the early 1960s. Annabel's Club came first, in 1963, in the basement of a William Kent house in Berkeley Square, occupying a relatively small space once given over to wine vaults. It was named after Birley's then wife, Lady Annabel Vane-Tempest-Stewart, whom he had married in 1954 (and who would later leave him for their mutual friend Jimmy Goldsmith).
From the beginning, the look was dubbed 'country house style': walls plentifully hung with pictures or panelled, with soft banquettes for seating. In fact it was anything but – too smart, comfortable and stylish for the average English country house in those first decades after the war. A school friend, Peter Blond, remembers that even at Eton, Birley was determined to open a nightclub. At the age of 33, married with three young children, he achieved his dream. For Blond, the success of Annabel's was certain, its sophisticated indulgence contrasting with 'the ghastliness of post-war London nightclubs, with awful seedy pink lampshades and no pictures. Such a shortage of elegance and style.'
Assiduously Birley and his founder members gathered around them the great, the grand, the glamorous and the glittering, many of them relations or near relations of Birley and his wife. 'He knew he needed lots of glamorous people to make the clubs work,' India Jane says. He played host to guests who included the Queen, Lord Lucan, Aristotle Onassis, Frank Sinatra and President Nixon. In their wake followed flotillas of the socially aspirant. Prices were consistently vertiginously high – Birley once upbraided a couple from the North who protested at their lunch bill, pointing out that his Harry's Bar was no place to eat on an economy drive. In return, guests could expect the best of the best and the highest levels of service. It was, after all, only what Birley wanted and expected for himself.
He spent every night at Annabel's. Later he would divide his time among all five of his clubs (after Annabel's he opened Mark's Club, Harry's Bar, George and the Bath & Racquets Club), and no detail was too small for his forensic attention, from the way butter was curled to the choice of glass and, famously, the wrapping of lemon chunks in muslin to contain their pips. As Blond comments, 'He was very, very aware of how things should be done.'
On paper such an approach smacks of snobbery, an etiquette-book approach to life. In practice Birley's outlook was as much to do with ennui, snobbery the fallback position. 'Mark was easily bored,' one friend remembers. 'That impatience created the discipline that ran the clubs so well.' In 1963 Annabel's was remarkable among upper-class London nightspots in not requiring a dinner jacket; later Birley abolished the requirement for a jacket and tie, but afterwards gave in to popular pressure and reintroduced it.
India Jane describes her father as 'very modern'. His concern extended beyond the old apparatus of social hierarchies and, despite his huge professional acquaintanceship, he contrived not to appear overtly social. Save for a talent for drawing which expressed itself most often in sketches of women's legs complete with high-heeled shoes, he was an unlikely nightclub denizen. 'He wasn't the easiest of people and not the congenial club owner in any sense of the word,' Blond remembers. But the stock-in-trade of the Birley empire, like that of Birley's own life, was the pursuit of pleasure.
His small stable of nightclubs and eateries offered their well-heeled, well-connected, occasionally well-known clientele many blandishments, not least discretion. In the ladies' room at Annabel's, for example, the formidable Mabel, lured by Birley from Wilton's, was said to be able to distinguish between a wife and a mistress at a single glance and, if need be, to ensure that the two did not encounter one another. It was all part of the service and typical of that fastidious, indeed obsessive attention to detail that earned Birley a reputation for perfectionism, which he himself preferred to describe as 'just want[ing] to get things right in the way I think to be best'.

Sir Edwin Landseer, The Poor Dog (The Shepherd’s Grave), est £25,000-35,000; Charles Burton Barber (1854-1894), Good Friends, £80,000-120,000. Courtesy of Sotheby's

'For my father, perfectionism meant his perfect idea of beauty,' India Jane remembers, 'but it was a concept that embraced an edge of imperfection. He had an incredibly broad, grand approach and his was a painter's perfection: if the colour of a lampshade was wrong, he would change it like an artist changes the colour in a painting.' And so Birley's collection includes a handful of works of the highest quality – David Hockney's 1993 pencil portrait of a dachshund, Boodgie (£12,000-18,000), and Sir Edwin Landseer's The Poor Dog (£25,000-35,000), one of four Landseers included in the sale. Birley claimed that it was among Landseer's very best pictures, painted 'before Queen Victoria got hold of him'.

Charles Burton Barber (1854-1894), Good Friends, £80,000-120,000. Courtesy of Sotheby's

In another instance he followed happily in Queen Victoria's wake. Good Friends, of 1889 (£80,000-120,000), an image of a small girl and a large St Bernard dog, is a first-rate example of the work of Charles Burton Barber. A leading animal portraitist, Barber spent much of the last quarter of the 19th century employed by the Queen to record her vast kennel of many breeds. One club regular remembers the painting in Mark's Club. Birley frequently moved paintings and objects between his home and his clubs – a blurring of the distinction between work and play, art and life, stage and gallery.
Thurloe Lodge also offered Birley levels of comfort bordering on sumptuousness. The interior designer Nina Campbell, who redesigned Annabel's Club in her early 20s, went on to open a shop with Birley on Pimlico Road selling Fauchon sweets and luxury linen, and afterwards worked on other Birley venues, describes his 'wonderful ways of making things comfortable'. In the five years after his purchase of the house in 1980, he converted the four-bedroom family home into a space ideally suited to his own needs and those of the succession of dogs with whom, with greater effusiveness than he appeared to reserve for any person, he shared his life. Its large, square drawing-room opening on to a panelled dining-room, remembered by India Jane as 'so ravishingly beautiful', successfully combined a hedonist's instinct for personal comfort with an old-fashioned eschewal of ostentation: deep sofas surrounding a crackling log fire were serviced by a plethora of drinks tables and low-level lighting. In the background walls covered in a distinguished collection of mostly 19th-century, mostly canine paintings suggested the successful anglicisation of a decidedly Proustian mise-en-scène.
If the effect was rich, it was an old-money richness unconcerned with anything outside its own four walls. It was the same look Birley repeatedly brought to his clubs and key to the success of those ventures which, despite an element of hauteur, were at the centre of London social life throughout the Swinging Sixties. In the decoration of his home Birley was guided exclusively by personal preference. Ignoring changing fashions, he was happy to indulge magpie instincts which he orchestrated with flair and taste. 'My own passion for collecting is a sort of acquisitiveness, I suppose,' he once admitted. 'If I had time to go around all the salesrooms, there would be no end to the stuff I could get interested in.' As India Jane remembers, 'He did everything to suit himself precisely. Not for the clubs' members but always to please himself.' It made for a vision undiluted by compromise – and one that, from the outset, became instantly recognisable and instantly popular.
India Jane Birley is not selling the entire contents of Thurloe Lodge. A recent purchase has enabled her to keep a selection of pieces from her father's collection. For India Jane has bought Charleston Manor, the house in Sussex which formerly belonged to her grandparents, Oswald and Rhoda Birley. Eleventh-century in origin, remodelled in the 18th century, it has small rooms with long views. 'It was the house I went to now and again as a child and easily the most significant place I knew,' she recalls. It was also, she feels, the principal influence on her father growing up and the house to which his thoughts turned repeatedly at the end of his life.
Today the house is once again embellished with paintings by Oswald Birley, alongside an antique tapestry and a 17th-century refectory table latterly housed at Thurloe Lodge. It provides for India Jane a sense of coming home. But it is not only she who has returned. With her are her father's last, beloved dogs, Tara, an 18-year-old alsatian, and George, a 16-year-old labrador. Surely, too, something of her father has returned to the Sussex of his childhood along with his daughter and only grandson. 'Pup's ghost must be fluttering about…'
Mark Birley – The Private Collection is at Sotheby's on March 21 (020-7293 5000; sothebys.com)




A mock-up of the drawing room in Thurloe Lodge. Friends and relatives are devastated that India Jane has sold items that Mark Birley spent a lifetime collecting Photo: EDDIE MULHOLLAND

Mark Birley: 'His things were thrown to the wolves’

India Jane Birley’s auction of her father’s belongings has outraged her brother Robin and deepened the family feud

By Sarah Rainey8:36PM GMT 22 Mar 2013

The original version of this article on 22 March said that Robin Birley had been the subject of allegations that he had stolen money from his family business. We accept that no money was stolen by Mr Birley and we apologise unreservedly to Mr Birley. The reference has been removed.
Tucked away in a discreet corner of South Kensington is Thurloe Lodge, the £17 million former home of Mark Birley, founder of the exclusive London nightclub Annabel’s. Creeping wisteria clings to its fawn-coloured bricks, its neat front garden edged with trimmed hedgerows and spring flowers. Large vaulted windows, their frames painted pristine white, are draped with heavy curtains, as if concealing treasures within.
For nearly 30 years, Thurloe Lodge was a shrine to Birley’s life. An arbiter of taste and avid collector of art and antiques, the house was a catalogue of his finest acquisitions. Inside, an elegant drawing room opened on to a panelled dining hall, where deep sofas faced a marble mantelpiece. The table was impeccably set with silver cutlery, even when Birley dined alone, and a Hermès backgammon board, personalised with a tapestry surface so the dice wouldn’t rattle, sat open by the window, ready to play should friends call round.
Fires always crackled in the grates. The lighting was soft, echoing the dimly lit interiors of Annabel’s, and the air teemed with cigar smoke. The walls were a jigsaw of paintings – a Hockney, a Rossetti, several Munnings – and hand-picked artefacts from around the world were propped up on low tables: china figurines; cocktail shakers; monogrammed cigar boxes.
In 2011, four years after his death, India Jane, Birley’s only daughter, sold Thurloe Lodge. Then, on Thursday, she put the contents of the house up for auction at Sotheby’s in London. More than 500 objects went under the hammer, among them Birley’s most personal belongings: hairbrushes, tie pins, signed paintings of his dogs by the artist Neil Forster.
Now, friends and relatives – including her brother Robin, from whom India Jane is said to be estranged – are devastated she has got rid of items that Birley spent a lifetime collecting. “It was,” one admits, “like [his possessions] were thrown to the wolves.”
In the auction room, a wooden statue of Birley’s beloved dog Blitz (Lot 171, sold for £26,000), was placed at the front, as if standing guard over his master’s property. Lot 460, a collection of gentleman’s dressing accessories, including three ivory hairbrushes engraved with an “M”, sold for £3,800. His four-seated red sofa; a hat stand; silverware; the contents of his wine cellar; even his bath fittings (Lot 485, green and silver Art Deco taps) – all went to new homes. There was a heated bidding exchange for Lot 232, the prized backgammon board, which eventually went to a telephone bidder for £16,000, 10 times its estimate.
Some of Birley’s friends were present, hoping to stop his possessions falling into the hands of strangers. But his son Robin, 55, refused to attend, branding the auction a “tragedy”.
“I want nothing to do with it, and no one in my family will have anything to do with it,” he sighs. “Everyone is appalled. I could understand if my sister was desperately in need, but the opposite is the case. Why not treasure his things? Why not give things away to staff who worked for my father for 30 years? Why not give things away to his friends? All these things financially mean little to her and a tremendous amount to them. I think it’s pitiful.”
In 2006, Robin was unceremoniously cut out of his father’s will. Birley, who died aged 77, left the bulk of his £120 million fortune to India Jane, in trust for Eben, her son, with Robin getting a token £1 million – a share that later rose to £35 million after an out-of-court settlement.
India Jane, 52, says she sold her father’s belongings because there were simply too many to fit into her London home and her new country estate, Charleston Manor in East Sussex. Friends suggest her father’s possessions were also “too grand” for her tastes. Explaining her motivations for the auction in the Sotheby’s brochure, India Jane admits it was a “difficult decision”. “I like to think [my father] approves of the sale, for being an artist he understands my need to carve out my own space,” she adds.
But David Wynne-Morgan, a PR guru and one of Mark Birley’s oldest friends, disagrees. “She is completely wrong,” he insists. “I mean, he told me. I lived in his cottage, I was on his board for 40 years. I was very close to him. He was ill at the end, his mind was not good and his short-term memory had gone. But I did say to him, 'Why did you change your will and leave the house and everything to India Jane?’ And he said, 'Well, I think she will treasure the house and its contents.’”
The Birley family’s history is marred by tragedy, rifts and betrayals. Mark’s eldest son, Rupert, disappeared aged 30 while swimming off the coast of West Africa in 1986. At the age of 12, Robin was mauled by a tiger at a private zoo in Kent, leaving him facially scarred. It is rumoured that he and his father never resolved their disagreement over the rewriting of his will; Mark famously kept a scathing letter from Robin in his jacket pocket, in which his son disowned him as a father. Robin, having made his money from a lucrative chain of sandwich shops, is now a nightclub owner himself, having opened 5 Hertford Street in Mayfair last June.
And there is another side to the extended family. Mark’s wife, Lady Annabel, had two children with his friend Sir James Goldsmith (writer Jemima Khan, and Conservative MP Zac) during their marriage. She divorced him in 1975 and married Goldsmith (with whom she had a third child, Ben) in 1978. When approached by The Daily Telegraph this week, neither Lady Annabel nor any of the three Goldsmith children wanted to comment on the auction.
Willie Landels, the founder of Harpers & Queen magazine and a long-term friend of Mark’s, says he understands why family members would rather distance themselves from the sale. “It is not for us to talk about; it is not our place,” he says. “Obviously when there’s so much stuff it has to be sold, but there were some things that were very personal to Mark, like his brushes. I find the whole thing rather sad… It was like they were thrown to the wolves.”
Landels was not at the auction on Thursday, but Wynne-Morgan was, along with Nina Campbell, the interior designer who worked with Birley on the décor of Annabel’s. “When you’ve known somebody incredibly well and known the house well, there is a sort of sadness when you see these things that you’ve known or you’ve sat on or you’ve looked at or you’ve drunk out of or you’ve eaten off, suddenly stripped down,” says Campbell.
She is careful not to criticise India Jane, adding: “Mark was an inveterate shopper, so there’s tons of stuff. She’s kept the things that mean something to her and hopefully the other things will have gone to a good home to be used by people who love them.” Sir Evelyn de Rothschild, another close friend of Birley’s, agrees that there was “an awful lot in his home”. He adds: “The auction was an example of what [Mark] collected and his joy of dogs.”
Wynne-Morgan, however, found a preview of the auction, attended by a number of Birley’s friends, “rather uncomfortable”. “India Jane is perfectly entitled to do what she likes,” he concedes. “But it was a very strange thing, seeing all these things set out. I find it a great pity. I mean that house; he created it. The man’s taste was quite amazing. He did it superbly well. I think it would have been nice for it to have been handed down to future generations and for it to be seen as a symbol of what he’d done.”
Birley had many loyal staff at Thurloe Lodge, including housekeeper Elvira Maria and his butler, Mohamed Ghannam. Wynne-Morgan is disappointed that India Jane didn’t give more of her father’s personal belongings to them. “He loved getting Christmas presents from the staff. We used to give him things, usually in silver, often with all our signatures engraved on them. An awful lot of those have been sold. The employees I talked to were horrified.”
Such sadness pervaded the Birley sale. Remnants of the old Annabel’s (now owned by restaurateur Richard Caring) – pastel drawings, posters commissioned for the cloakrooms – were sold to anonymous bidders. Several of Birley’s friends walked out when they failed to win lots – in Wynne-Morgan’s case, his backgammon board. “I reckon I lost about £30,000 to him over the years, because he was a much better player than me,” he recalls. “He used to say, 'David, you were terribly unlucky tonight.’”

Luck didn’t come into it: the auction was an unprecedented success, raising £3.85 million – money that will be put into trust for Eben until he turns 18. A fitting tribute, some might say, to the man who for 40 years put on London’s finest parties: even in death, Birley can throw the best auction in town.

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Francofonia is a 2015 French drama film directed by Alexander Sokurov. It was screened in the main competition section of the 72nd Venice International Film Festival and in the Masters section of the 2015 Toronto International Film Festival. Variety defined it as a "dense, enriching meditation on the Louvre and specifically (but not exclusively) the museum’s status during WWII".



Venice Film Review: ‘Francofonia’
Jay Weissberg

It will be impossible to neatly package “Francofonia” into a brief and accurate description, since Alexander Sokurov’s dense, enriching meditation on the Louvre and specifically (but not exclusively) the museum’s status during WWII defies categorization. View the trailer and you might think the film is essentially a Sokurovian dramatization of the uncertain relationship between the Louvre’s wartime director and the Nazi officer in charge of preserving France’s artistic patrimony. Watching the film, however, a larger picture emerges, in which Sokurov, via his rather too present voiceover, engages with Paris itself and the philosophical concept of a great museum. More accessible than “Faust,” though definitely not one for the History Channel, “Francofonia” will please the Russian auteur’s fans but is unlikely to win him new converts.

Viewers who have been following the director’s career since the early days will be especially attuned to the way he incorporates so many themes he’s addressed before, from the early documentaries about artists (works by French painter Hubert Robert get handsome closeups) to his pics on 20th-century rulers and, of course, “Russian Ark.” It would be wrong though to think of “Francofonia” as a summation, since that word connotes a certain finality, and it’s clear that Sokurov has much more to say about art’s often precarious journey through history. In fact, in some ways the film feels almost like an intro (it runs just under 90 minutes), as if the helmer’s verbose narration were a lead-in to a fuller engagement with his musings.

A constant shuffling of layers is one of the film’s hallmarks: It cuts from deathbed photos of Chekhov and Tolstoy to a Skype conversation that Sokurov has with a ship captain, then shifts to the warm glow of 1940-set scenes between Louvre head Jacques Jaujard (Louis-Do de Lencquesaing) and German officer Count Franziskus Wolff Metternich (Benjamin Utzerath). In between are lessons on the Louvre’s centuries-long construction; archival footage of Parisians getting on with their lives during the Nazi Occupation; reflections on how portraiture shaped European civilization; and the spirit of Napoleon (Vincent Nemeth) walking the museum’s grand galleries, occasionally encountering the personification of France, Marianne (Johanna Korthals Altes).

Does it all come together? Well, yes, if viewers think of the film as a freewheeling poetic essay, highly personal yet captivating. The pic’s core (or perhaps merely the hook?) is the relationship between Jaujard and Wolf Metternich, vanquished and conqueror, and how both men were intent on protecting the Louvre’s treasures. By the time the Nazis rolled into Paris in 1940, almost all the works of art had already been transferred to a series of safer chateaux across France, but the highly cultured, French-speaking German aristocrat would go on to defy his commanders and continue to keep France’s museum holdings protected from deportation to the Third Reich.

Sokurov, a devoted Francophile, ponders why the Nazis safeguarded Paris while deliberately destroying so many cities of Eastern Europe, especially Leningrad, whose Hermitage suffered so greatly during the War. Perhaps it’s the same reason why we still feel a kick in the stomach when watching footage of Hitler in front of the Eiffel Tower: Paris represents more than just France, just as the Louvre is more than a building full of extraordinary masterworks. Napoleon, of course, understood this, which is why so many of the Louvre’s holdings can be directly traced to him — Sokurov has his ghost repeatedly say “I brought all of this!” while Marianne continuously exclaims, “Liberty, Equality, Brotherhood.”

Through the vicissitudes of time, the art itself stares back with unblinkered directness: Assyrian winged bulls and Clouet portraits have been bargaining chips through no action of their own, and history, like a stormy sea, occasionally drags them down into its unmarked graveyard. Museums act as bulwarks against such erasures, which is why Sokurov plays with the ship metaphor via his invented Skype chats with a captain whose cargo of art treasures is at risk of either sinking the ship in a wild tempest or being jettisoned to save the vessel. Whether such a metaphor works in a film already loaded with interconnected subjects will greatly depend on how much viewers understand what the director is doing with these sequences.

Most everyone, however, will agree that “Francofonia” looks terrific. Working again with noted d.p. Bruno Delbonnel, Sokurov has designed a rich and varied palette of textures and tones that makes for constantly renewed visual pleasures. Some images have an amber patina like the centuries-old varnish on Old Master paintings in the Hermitage, while dramatizations from the early 1940s have a flickering glow that imitates color nitrate stock screened through a carbon-arc projector. Some of these “films” are treated like artifacts themselves, with the sound strip visible, and at other times, with the sprocket holes showing. Oddly, no production designer or art director is credited; the print shown in Venice has a sweeping orchestral coda at the finale but no end credits.

Reviewed at Venice Film Festival (competing), Sept. 3, 2015. (Also in Toronto Film Festival — Masters; San Sebastian Film Festival — Zabaltegi.) Running time: 87 MIN.
Production
(France-Germany-Netherlands) A Sophie Dulac Distribution (in France) release of an Ideale Audience, Zero One Film, N279 Entertainment presentation of an Ideale Audience, Zero One Film, N279 Entertainment, Arte France Cinema, Le Musee du Louvre production. (International sales: Films Boutique, Berlin.) Produced by Pierre-Olivier Bardet, Thomas Kufus, Els Vandevorst. Co-producers, Olivier Pere, Remi Burah.
Crew
Directed, written by Alexander Sokurov. Camera (color), Bruno Delbonnel; editors, Alexei Jankowski, Hansjorg Weissbrich; music, Murat Kabardokov; costume designer, Colombe Lauriot Prevost; sound, Andre Rigault, Jac Vleeshouwer, Ansgar Frerich; sound editor, Emil Klotzsch; line producers, Claire Lion, Tassilo Aschauer, Ann Carolin Renninger, Marianne Van Hardeveld; assistant directors, Alexei Jankowski, Marina Koreneva: casting, Andy Gillet, Britt Beyer.
With
Louis-Do de Lencquesaing, Benjamin Utzerath, Vincent Nemeth, Johanna Korthals Altes, Andrey Chelpanov, Jean-Claude Caer. Voices: Alexander Sokurov, Francois Smesny, Peter Lontzek. (French, Russian, German dialogue)




The Harris Tweed Authority and The Orb Mark

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BY JANET HUNTER
This is the most comprehensive and wide ranging account ever written of the Harris Tweed industry. It makes an important contribution to the social and economic history of the islands and shows the struggle which the people of the Outer Hebrides had, to retain the commercial value of the name, "Harris Tweed". Meticulously researched, intricate and changing circumstances in the history of the industry are made immensly readable.åÊ The book will be of great interest at local, national and world level as Harris Tweed continues to assert it's place on the international stage of modern fashion


Harris Tweed Authority
Harris Tweed Authority certification mark.

The Harris Tweed Authority is an independent statutory public body created by the Harris Tweed Act 1993 replacing the Harris Tweed Association which formed in 1910.

The Harris Tweed Authority is charged with the general duty of furthering the Harris Tweed industry as a means of livelihood for those who live in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland.
The Harris Tweed Authority is responsible for safeguarding the standard and reputation of Harris Tweed, promoting awareness of the cloth internationally and disseminating information about material falling within the definition of Harris Tweed and articles made from it.

In addition, the Harris Tweed Authority is involved in instigating litigation against counterfeiting as well as the process of inspections and issuing of the Harris Tweed Orb trade mark.

The authority has its seat in the town of Stornoway in the Isle of Lewis.



The Harris Tweed Association was the predecessor of the Harris Tweed Authority and existed from 1910 - 1993 whereupon it was replaced under the terms of the Harris Tweed Act 1993.

At the turn of the 20th century the development of the Harris Tweed industry was growing. Small independent producers, often entrepreneurial general merchants, had largely supplanted the landlord proprietors in both Harris and Lewis as middlemen between weavers and textile wholesalers in the south of the UK.

The role of general merchants as the middlemen in the sale of Harris Tweed was a vital factor in expanding the industry away from the patronage of the land-owning gentry and into the hands of island entrepreneurs. Those merchants who built up a business dealing in tweeds often became independent producers in their own right. They would take orders for Harris Tweed, send the yarn to their chosen weavers, take back the tweeds for finishing, either locally by hand, or later by some mainland finishing company and finally dispatch the tweed to the customer.

In addition to commissioning tweeds, the general merchants also bought tweed from local weavers, using the truck system i.e. by giving credit in their store instead of cash. The merchants then sold the tweed to contacts in the south of the country.

A weaver who earned his livelihood from commercial weaving, as opposed to domestic weaving, had to have a ready supply of yarn and often it was only mill-spun yarn bought in from the mainland of Scotland could give him that supply. The great danger of using machine-spun yarn from a mainland mill was that nobody could guarantee that the yarn which came back had been made from the island wool which had been sent to the mill, or even that the yarn was made from 100% pure virgin wool as was tradition. It was by no means unheard of for unscrupulous spinning mills, particularly in the north of England, to introduce a proportion of re-cycled wool or even cotton "shoddy", to make the new wool go further.

As the demand for Harris Tweed expanded in the first decade of the 20th century, there was also an influx of inexperienced weavers into the industry, frequently men who had had to abandon traditional fishing work due to industry decline.

The result of these two factors saw the increase in poor quality tweed, made by inexperienced weavers from imported, mainland mill-spun yarn and this inferior tweed in turn affected the market for traditional produced Harris Tweed made by experienced weavers from hand-spun island yarn.

It became clear to the local general merchants that strong legal protection of the good name of Harris Tweed by a trade mark and an established standard definition had therefore become essential to the developing industry. This led to groups of merchants in both Lewis and Harris applying to the Board of Trade for a registered trade mark.

On 9 December 1909 a group of these merchants joined together to create The Harris Tweed Association Ltd. a company limited by guarantee with a registered office in London, formed with the intention of protecting the use of the name ‘Harris Tweed’ from imitations, such as the so-called ‘Harris Tweed’ of Henry Lyons or from the inferior standards of production which produced ‘Stornoway Tweed’ and also to establish a Harris Tweed certification mark.

When this trade mark, the Orb, was eventually granted, the Board insisted that it should be granted to all the islands of the Outer Hebrides i.e. to Lewis, North and South Uist, Benbecula and Barra, as well as to Harris, the rationale for this decision being that the tweed was made in exactly the same way in all those islands.

The Harris Tweed Association existed until 1993 when it was replaced by the Harris Tweed Authority under the terms of the Harris Tweed Act of 1993.


Harris Tweed Authority 1993–present

The Harris Tweed Authority was established in 1993, replacing the Harris Tweed Association under the terms of the Harris Tweed Act 1993.

In early 1990 the UK was reviewing its trade mark law with the intention of moving towards the single trade mark system for the whole European Community.

The Harris Tweed Association had already faced difficulties presented by different trade mark laws in different countries leaving the association concerned that the new trade mark laws could move direct control of their Orb Mark to the owners of the vested interests of the Harris Tweed companies. This move of control from an independent association to the commercial producers threatened an erosion of Harris Tweed's craft status and connection to the islands of the Outer Hebrides due to inevitable economic pressures to reduce costs and move production elsewhere.

The association concluded the best option was to transform the association into a public law body, i.e., legal persons governed by public law with statutory functions, one of which would be safeguarding the Orb trade mark.

Taking a lead from two previous Acts of Parliament, the Scotch Whisky Act 1988 and the Sea Fish Industry Authority under the Fisheries Act 1981 both of which had set out an appropriate mechanism for the protection and promotion of a Scottish product, a proposal was submitted to the Department of Trade and Industry.

The proposal included the statutory definition of Harris Tweed outlining the legal remedies it could undertake, an appeals procedure, provision for the dissolution of the Harris Tweed Association Ltd. and for a new Harris Tweed Authority to take over, assuming control of the assets and trademarks of the old association.

A draft bill for a Harris Tweed Act was also drawn up to reflect these proposed changes with the express aim of protecting the intellectual property of Harris Tweed as a local asset to the communities of the Outer Hebrides. By December 1990 the final draft of the bill and been circulated and by April 1991 the eleven members of the Harris Tweed Association unanimously approved the terms subject to such alterations as the Parliament of the United Kingdom might think fit to make to it.

Readings of the bill took place in early 1991 and, after some procedural difficulties with regard to European Law, received the Royal Assent in July 1993.

After 82 years as voluntary guardian of the Harris Tweed industry and Orb trade marks the Harris Tweed Association became the Harris Tweed Authority, a legal statutory body charged under UK law with safeguarding the industry in the years ahead.

The definition of Harris Tweed contained in the Harris Tweed Act 1993 clearly defines Harris Tweed as a tweed which -

"(a) has been handwoven by the islanders at their homes in the outer hebrides, finished in the outer hebrides, and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the outer hebrides; and"
"(b) possesses such further characteristics as a material is required to possess under regulations from time to time in force under the provisions of schedule 1 to the act of 1938 (or under regulations from time to time in force under any enactment replacing those provisions) for it to qualify for the application to it, and use with respect to it, of a harris tweed trade mark."
The act also set out -

"to make provision for the establishment of a Harris Tweed Authority to promote and maintain the authenticity, standard and reputation of Harris Tweed; for the definition of Harris Tweed; for preventing the sale as Harris Tweed of material which does not fall within the definition; for the Authority to become the successor to The Harris Tweed Association Limited; and for other purposes incidental thereto."
The entire content and provisions of the Act can be found at the Legislation.gov website managed by the United Kingdom's National Archives.


The Orb Mark

The Harris Tweed Orb Mark is the United Kingdom's oldest certification mark and is recognised all over the world.

Certification marks are trademarks with a difference. This ancient method of identifying products has its roots in the medieval guild system. Groups of traders, characterised by profession or location, were recognised through their guild and the reputation that was associated with it, guaranteeing that goods or services meet a defined standard or possess a particular characteristic.

An application was submitted in the name of the Harris Tweed Association Ltd for a standardisation mark, now known as a certification mark, affording much stronger protection that an ordinary trademark would. The trademark was applied for in February 1910 to the Board of Trade as Application No. 319214 under section 62 of the Trade Marks Act 1905 in Class 34 and was finally registered in October 1910.

The registered design consisted of a globe surmounted by a Maltese Cross, studded with 13 jewels and with the words "Harris Tweed" in the first line and, in the second line, the words "Made in Harris", "Made in Lewis" or "Made in Uist", according to the place of manufacture.

Every 58 metre and 75 metre length of Harris Tweed produced by the Harris Tweed mills is inspected by a Harris Tweed Authority inspector and "stamped" with an iron-on transfer of the Orb certification mark as outline above. Typically the mark is applied at the selvedge, one at the corner of each end and one at the half-way point. Customers may request additional marks to be applied at different points also.

The Orb certification mark is also applied to woven labels which are issued to customers when they purchase Harris Tweed.

The Harris Tweed Orb is a registered trademark and must not be used or reproduced without the permission of the Harris Tweed Authority.




LORD LUCAN MYSTERY

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Esta é uma história-mistério que ocupa as mentes britânicas há mais de 30 anos. Imaginem um jovem aristocrata inglês, o sétimo 'earlofLucan', educado em Eton, oficial do 'ColdStreamGuards', com alguns problemas no que respeita o jogo e as instabilidades financeiras a ele inerentes, um casamento desfeito, tensões, álcool e arrogâncias ...
Na noite de 7 de Novembro de 1974, a sua mulher ensaguentada, surge no 'Pub'"ThePlumberArms" suplicando desesperadamente por auxilio : "Help me, Help me, Help me. I'vejustescapedfrombeingmurdered. He's inthehouse. He's murderedtheNanny!"
Tudo isto se passava na LowerBelgraveStreet,46.
A policia foi chamada de imediato, e ao entrar na casa, a preocupação foi de verificar se tudo estava bem com as três crianças do casal. Encontraram-nas a dormir ilesas.
Descendo depois para a cave onde se encontrava uma sala e a cozinha, encontraram aí paredes ensaguentadas, uma poça de sangue com pegadas masculinas, e um tubo de chumbo torto e ensaguentado. Além disso, encontraram o cadáver ensaguentado da jovem 'Nanny', Sandra Rivett, metido num grande saco de correio.
A mulher de Lord Lucan, declarou ter sido atacada pelo marido, na escuridão, quando desceu à cave, depois de ter estranhado a demora de Sandra, que tinha descido para fazer chá.
Depois de uma luta com o marido atacante, conseguiu acalmá-lo, e foi aí, que apanhando uma 'aberta' , conseguindo fugir, apavorada, em busca de ajuda, deixando as crianças atrás.
Quanto a Lord Lucan, depois de uns telefonemas, e uma visita a amigos a 68 km de Londres, desapareceu visivelmente perturbado, e nunca mais ninguém o viu ...
Daí o aparecimento do livro escrito e editado por William Coles, misto de factos, fantasia, ficção psicológica ... enfim 'very thriling indeed' ... Deixo-vos com estes links :o trailer do filme 'Bloodlines'http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DM00CD9ntec e ainda estes dois: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8xOQ6r1EQI e ainda http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBIvBYlURqs








A infortunada Sandra Rivett

Lucan TV Reviews ."I suppose it's not 100% impossible that Lord Lucan is watching too"

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Lucan – TV review
Lord Lucan's vile, hate-filled world of decadence and privilege is brilliantly captured in Jeff Pope's adaptation of John Pearson's book The Gamblers
Sam Wollaston

It's a pity that a man called John Burke resigned from the infamous Mayfair gambling haunt The Clermont Club in 1965. Why a pity? Because in Lucan (ITV), a much older Burke is played by Michael Gambon.

Jeff Pope's excellent drama is based on John Pearson's book The Gamblers, and it cleverly includes Pearson as a character, linking the past with (almost) the present. So we see Pearson (played by Paul Freeman) interviewing some old aristos of the Clermont set, trying to shed new light on the mystery that has intrigued Britain for decades. But because John Burke was only at the Clermont for the first couple of years (he fell out with founder John Aspinall), and wasn't around to witness Lord Lucan's downfall and disappearance, he doesn't have an awful lot to tell Pearson. Or won't tell him – they're a secretive bunch, these toffs, especially when it comes to Lucan and facing up to their own despicable pasts. Anyway, what this all means is that Gambon – such a spellbinding, screen-owning presence – is only around for the first 10 minutes or so. That's the pity.

Not that there aren't other extraordinary performances. Rory Kinnear's Lucan for one – quiet, proper, angry, not overburdened with brains or imagination, blinded by his gambling addiction and his sense of entitlement. I don't think there is any footage of the real Lucan; as far as I'm concerned, Kinnear now is him. While Christopher Eccleston has become Aspinall, or Aspers – charismatic and charming while ruthlessly relieving his so-called friends of their inheritances, with a monkey on his shoulder or a tiger cub at his feet, and some questionable views about "the natural order of things". Then there's Catherine McCormack's Lady Veronica Lucan – anxious, vulnerable, bullied, but somehow able to cling on to dignity in court. And Jane Lapotaire as another of Pearson's interviewees, Susie Maxwell-Scott, is a ghastly old trout clinging to a world that no longer exists, and one of the least sisterly women you're ever likely to come across. All are brilliant.

But is there really anything left to be said about the Lucan affair? Well, my thorough and scientific survey with approximately four (OK, exactly three) people – Guardian employees, no less, though too young to have been alive in 1965 and, if they were around in 1974, not yet on top of current affairs, even sensational scandals – reveals that the under 50s know very little about it. He went missing, they do know that. But was he a spy? Or did he kill someone? His wife? Only one of my colleagues thinks a nanny might have been involved. No one knows the name Sandra Rivett. So perhaps it's not overfamiliar.

And, just as Pearson's book wasn't, this isn't only about the Lucan affair either. Pearson started off writing a book about the Clermont and the people who went there; it just turned into one about Lucan because, he says here, "books have a strange way of exerting their own existence". Pope's adaptation, too, is just as much about that time and those people in that place, as about the Clermont. Actually, it's about two rotten institutions – a vile club full of decadence and privilege, and an even viler marriage – the Lucans'– full of hatred and abuse. The two combined to create an almost unimaginable world in which psychological torture was acceptable and planning on doing away with an inconvenient wife was just another gamble.

The first part ends on that night, 7 November 1974, with the nanny, Sandra Rivett, lying bludgeoned to death in the the basement of the Lucan family home. Part two, which goes out next Wednesday and already beckons with a menacing finger, will take it from there – Lucan disappearing and his chums closing ranks, not saying very much at all. Until – and this is the clever thing about making Pearson a character – many years later when Susie Maxwell-Scott, the last person to see Lucan alive, tells Pearson something …

It's funny to think that some of these people might be watching. Not Maxwell-Scott, who died soon after talking to Pearson. But Veronica, Countess of Lucan, is still very much around, only 75 and living not far from where it all happened. The kids, too, of course, over whom the Lucans were fighting. Plus some of the Clermont set, but not Aspinall, or Jimmy Goldsmith. Maybe they'll be nodding, or shaking their heads – that happened, that didn't. I suppose it's not 100% impossible that Lord Lucan is watching too
Pier group: Rory Kinnear and Catherine McCormack in the ITV crime drama 'Lucan'

 Lucan, ITV: Review - Brilliantly acted, cleverly scripted and beautifully shot

It is almost 40 years since John Bingham, the 7th Earl of Lucan, disappeared following the murder of his children's nanny Sandra Rivett. Lucan was convicted of the crime in absentia and, while his body has never been discovered, his estranged wife Veronica believes he killed himself sometime in the early hours after Rivett's death.

Not everyone is convinced. For much of my childhood it seemed as though newspapers filled a slow news day with a sighting of Lucan apparently propping up a bar in a far-flung outpost of the former Empire and the most common conspiracy theory has the Clermont Set – John Aspinall, Jimmy Goldmith, Dominic Elwes et al – closing ranks to protect the peer, helping him to elude the police at a crucial time.

Lucan, ITV's glossy reconstruction of the events leading up to and after Rivett's murder, began with the declaration that "much of this story is based on fact, though we have also included an element of speculation" before plunging us straight into the familiar tale of upper-class cads, gambling addiction and domestic despair.

Scripted by Jeff Pope, who has good form in tricky real-life adaptations having produced the award-winning Fred West drama, Appropriate Adult, Lucan drew on John Pearson's The Gamblers to present a hermetically sealed world in which women knew their place and the greatest sin was to be a bore.

In the lead role, Rory Kinnear perfectly caught Lucan's ponderous charm, making you see why women such as Susie Maxwell Scott might have covered up for him simply by dint of his birth, while there were strong performances from Jane Lapotaire as the older Susie, Leanne Best as Rivett and, in particular, Catherine McCormack as poor beleaguered Veronica, trapped in marriage to a husband who appeared to delight in tormenting her and even attempted to have her committed.

The show's real villain, however, was the machiavellian Aspinall, played by Christopher Eccleston with serpentine grace (and the odd accent issue). This Aspinall was a consummate game player and puppet master, an outsider who pulled off the neat trick of seeming like the ultimate insider and who was shown repeatedly reminding Lucan about survival of the fittest, the natural order of things and the need to "fight dirty and let there be no shame".

"Aspers" might have been an upper-crust Iago but "Lucky" Lucan was no Othello brought low by jealousy and, while Pope's script was adept at showing you how the peer got to the desperate place where murdering his wife seemed a logical way of gaining custody of his children, the best thing about Lucan was the way in which it gave Veronica a voice, making this as much a story about the quiet desperation faced by many married women, both then and now, as the same old sensational tale.

Yet even Pope's astute script couldn't quite shake off a growing sense of queasiness that here was murder regurgitated as entertainment. We talk about the Lord Lucan affair yet the real story is the brutal death of Sandra Rivett and there was something wrong about the way she was reduced to a bit part in her own tale.

The killing itself was shot in near- darkness and tastefully handled but it was hard to watch without feeling like a voyeur in someone else's tragedy. A feeling that seems only likely to increase next week when the focus switches to the aftermath of the murder and the attempts or otherwise of the Clermont Club to save one of their own. Lucan was a brilliantly acted, cleverly scripted and beautifully shot drama. I'm not sure it should have ever been made.







Lord Lucan 'killed himself hours after murdering family nanny', new witness claims

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Lord Lucan 'killed himself hours after murdering family nanny', new witness claims
Theories have abounded for four decades about Lord Lucan's disappearance

Alexandra Sims / The Independent / 9-12-2015

The mystery surrounding Lord Lucan's whereabouts, which has abounded ever since his blood-splattered car was found abandoned in 1974, may have come to an end after a new witness has alleged the peer killed himself hours after murdering his family’s nanny.

During a hearing at the High Court on Tuesday, it was claimed a member of Lord Lucan’s gambling set said the peer killed himself after murdering Sandra Rivett at his family home in Belgravia on 7 November 1974.

Theories have abounded for decades about the Lord’s disappearance, who was last seen in the early hours of Friday 8 November, 16 miles away from where his car was found in Newhaven, Sussex.

Speculation that Lord Richard John Bingham successfully fled abroad, evading capture for the murder, has been rife; while alleged sightings in Australia, Ireland, South Africa and New Zealand have elevated the peer to myth-like status.

The fresh claims emerged during a procedural hearing determining whether a death certificate should be issued for Lord Lucan so his son George Bingham, 48, may inherit his father’s title, becoming the Eighth Earle of Lucan.

Author Ian Crosby, who has undertaken extensive research into the peer’s disappearance, told the court that among hundreds of emails he had received about the case, one – from a man who frequented Lucan’s old haunt the Clermont Club – merited investigation.

Mr Crosby, who also goes by the name David Vann, said: “It appears he might have some information and it may transpire that Lord Lucan actually killed himself on the morning of Friday November 8 1974.”

Mr Crosby, told The Telegraph: “He says in the email it was all over by 5am [of November 8]. This man was a member of the Clermont set and is in a position to know.”

Mr Crosby told the court he had received the email seven years ago but had only recently be able to retrieve it after his home was raided over claims of animal cruelty. He now plans to interview the witness and submit a statement to a full hearing at the High Court next year.

In 1975, an inquest jury declared Lord Lucan as Ms Rivett's killer. Detectives believe the aristocrat — a heavy gambler nicknamed "Lucky Lucan"— intended to murder his wife and killed the nanny by mistake.

In 1999 Lord Lucan was officially declared dead by the High Court, but a death certificate had never been issued.


Additional reporting by Press Association  

Downton Abbey Series 6 Special Teaser Trailer Exclusive FINAL EPISODE

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The 2015 Christmas Special, also known as The Finale, is the holiday episode of the sixth series of Downton Abbey. It is the final episode of the sixth series and serves as the finale for the entire show. It will be set between July 25 and December 31, 1925[. It will air on December 25th, 2015 in the UK, and on February 28th, 2016 in the US.

It will be approximately two hours long and will air at 8:45pm on ITV on Christmas Day, 2015.

Between July 25-December 31, 1925: Mary endeavors to build bridges with her younger sister, but Edith's family secret continues to pose a threat, even after she thought there was nothing left to lose. As Henry settles into the role of husband and stepfather, scars left by Charlie’s tragic death are slow to heal fully, while Carson struggles to come to terms with developments which prove that even he is not invulnerable to change. Spratt's successful moonlighting venture is threatened by the continued conniving of Ms. Denker, and Daisy may have missed her chance with an admirer. Isobel receives devastating news and when the young Greys' scheming takes a sinister turn, and she and Violet join forces. Robert must learn the value of independence while the day that Anna and Bates have been waiting for finally arrives.

The final episode of the overall series offers all the love and loss, happiness and heartbreak of Downton Abbey, and as the family and servants prepare to welcome the year of 1926, they celebrate an unforgettable New Year’s Eve together at the great house.

HELMETS / SUNDAY IMAGES


One Savile Row: The Invention of the English Gentleman: Gieves & Hawkes

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 Savile Row is the worlds iconic address for the best in bespoke tailoring, and home to legendary Gieves & Hawkes, suppliers to the British military for more than two centuries and furnishers to elegant gentlemen today. The company began by designing attire for Britain's most illustrious officers, including Admiral Lord Nelson and The Duke of Wellington, as well as ten generations of British royalty, from King George III in 1809 to Princes William and Harry today. As masculine attire evolved after World War I, Gieves & Hawkes added civilian clothing to its repertoire, applying centuries of expertise in creating hand-made garments proportion, cutting, fitting, and quality fabrics to the finest bespoke tailoring. This volume traces the rich history of tailoring, drawing from Gieves & Hawkes vast, unpublished archives of client ledgers, garments and accessories, and photographs. Including today's bespoke tailoring and ready-to-wear collections, this is an indispensible book on classic mens style and fine tailoring.

by Marcus Binney (Author), Simon Crompton (Author)
Marcus Binney, founder and president of Save Britain's Heritage and architectural correspondent at The Times, received an OBE and the London Conservation medal. Simon Crompton wrote Le Snob: Tailoring and contributes to the Financial Times, GQ, and his Permanent Style website. Colin McDowell was chief fashion writer for the Sunday Times and has written 22 books including McDowell's Directory of Twentieth Century Fashion and biographies of Ralph Lauren, John Galliano, and Manolo Blahnik. Peter Tilley men's fashion historian and former Dunhill archivist, is Gieves & Hawkes' company historian. Bruno Ehrs is a lifestyle photographer.
Publisher: Editions Flammarion
ISBN: 9782080201881




Gieves & Hawkes are a bespoke men's tailor and menswear line located at 1 Savile Row, London, founded in 1771 and owned by the Hong Kong conglomerate Trinity Ltd. Gieves and Hawkes is one of the oldest continual bespoke tailoring companies in the world. The company holds a number of Royal Warrants, and provides ready-to-wear as well as bespoke and military tailoring. The current creative director is Jason Basmajian, formerly of Brioni.

Gieves & Hawkes' business was originally based on catering to the needs of the British Army and the Royal Navy, and hence by association the British Royal family.
After coming to London in 1760, Thomas Hawkes set up his first shop in 1771 in Brewer Street, catering to gentlemen. His main clients were commanders of the British Army, through which King George III became a customer. He expanded his retail operation by moving to No.17 (later number No.14) Piccadilly in 1793, where he gained the first of many Royal Warrants in 1809.
In 1835, James Watson Gieve was employed by 'Old Mel' Meredith, a Portsmouth-based tailor by appointment to the Royal Navy. Meredith tailored the uniform that Admiral Lord Nelson was wearing when he was killed in action aboard HMS Victory at the Battle of Trafalgar[citation needed]. In 1852, Gieve partnered with Joseph Galt, and in 1887, Gieve purchased the remaining shares to form Gieves & Co. He died in 1888.
On 23 December 1912, Hawkes & Co. bought №1 Savile Row from the Royal Geographical Society for £38,000, in part because the firm had dressed so many explorers. In 1974, Gieves Ltd acquired Hawkes & Co., and the freehold of 1 Savile Row. The company was renamed Gieves & Hawkes. In 2009, Kathryn Sargent of Gieves and Hawkes became the first female head cutter in Savile Row
The company also produces the uniforms for the Honourable Corps of Gentlemen at Arms.
The company was bought by Hong Kong-based property developer and garment manufacturer USL Holdings Ltd in 2002, having listed unsuccessfully as a Plc. In May 2012, Gieves & Hawkes was acquired by Trinity Limited, and the distribution of Gieves & Hawkes continues to expand with over 100 stores and concessions around the UK and in Hong Kong, China, and Taiwan.
In June 2009, Gieves & Hawkes began a new partnership with British Formula One team Brawn GP, providing the team with their official attire, a grey, single-breasted, two-button, mohair suit, white shirt, and distinctive team-coloured tie.
The Savile Row flagship store was renovated in 2011 and transformed into a men's-wear emporium, which includes concessions for Carreducker (bespoke shoemaker). In October 2011, Gieves & Hawkes sponsored the Scott-Amundsen Centenary Race conducted by six serving soldiers of the British Army, with all proceeds going to the Royal British Legion.

Gieves & Hawkes - 
Type
Subsidiary
Industry Retailer
Founded 1771
Founder Thomas Hawkes
James Watson Gieve
Headquarters Savile Row, London, United Kingdom
Products Clothing, Fashion
Parent Trinity Ltd.
Website www.gievesandhawkes.com













INTERMEZZO in Lisbon / Remains of the day

DONEGAL TWEED

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Donegal tweed is a handwoven tweed manufactured in County Donegal, Ireland. Donegal has for centuries been producing tweed from local materials in the making of caps, suits and vests. Sheep thrive in the hills and bogs of Donegal, and indigenous plants such as blackberries, fuchsia, gorse (whins), and moss provide dyes. Towards the end of the eighteenth century The Royal Linen Manufacturers of Ulster distributed approximately six thousand flax wheels for spinning wool and sixty looms for weaving to various Donegal homesteads. These machines helped establish the homespun tweed industry in nineteenth-century Donegal.


Donegal Tweed fabric.
With the characteristic small pieces of yarn in different colours.
While the weavers in County Donegal provide a number of different tweed fabrics, including herringbone and check patterns, the area is best known for a plain-weave cloth of differently-coloured warp and weft, with small pieces of yarn in various colours woven in at irregular intervals to produce a heathered effect. Such fabric is often labeled as "donegal" (with a lowercase "d") regardless of its provenance.

Much of the development in textiles in Ireland from the C18th was based on linen. The growing commercial linen trade attracted families who had woven for themselves, so that linen had a very long history, albeit only in pockets of rich soil in the west.

By the late C18th, premiums were also paid to flax-growers in the form of wheels and looms – in a single year 6,000 wheels and looms were distributed in Donegal alone. Without them and the knowledge of their use, it is improbable that efforts would have been made to develop a tweed industry in those parts of the county. Woollen yarn for knitting and weaving could be made on the old flax wheels; spinning needed no revival, it had never died out. The woollen products of the area had been sold at Ardara Fair for many years.



In "Reminiscences of Donegal Industries" published by the Irish Homestead Journal of 1897, there is a description of how "Homespuns have been manufactured in these mountain districts extending from Ardara to Glenhead from time immemorial. In my childhood's days, the peasantry made their own blankets, flannels, etc. …. The woven goods were cleaned, dressed and finished in "tuck mills"…[one of which] is on a tributary stream of the Ardara River."




In the mid-1880s a parliamentary Select Committee on Industries in Ireland began an official survey of conditions throughout the over-populated, under-employed poor regions of Ireland, including county Donegal. The Donegal Industrial Fund, directed by Mrs Ernest Hart, began to press for some sort of quality control for flannel and frieze. Dr Townsend Gahan, inspector for the Congested Districts Board, advocated a depot where webs of yarn could be checked for consistency in width, colour and quality of fibre.

Inspections took place on what became known as "Depot Day".James Molloy of Ardara established an export market in New York for knits and tweeds. Spinning and weaving survived into the 1950s, enduring peaks and troughs, often due to quota systems placed on textile imports to the USA.

The industry began to lose its cottage-based element with the arrival of the power looms. In common with today's textile manufacturing companies in Ireland, cheaper labour overseas has put paid to the large-scale production of woollen goods produced here. However, the larger companies have diversified into the production of soft furnishing and high fashion clothing. Noted Donegal author and environmentalist, Judith Hoad states:

"Only a generation ago, Donegal Tweed embodied the integration between the sheep, the plants (used in the dyeing process) and the human population of its place of production – a kind of symbiosis existed. That symbiosis in the domestic production of tweed has disappeared. Mechanised, factory production may clothe more people, but it is in essence impersonal. The individuality…has gone. I'm a Luddite at heart and I mourn its passing*."


The SHAKO / SUNDAY IMAGES

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 A shako is a tall, cylindrical military cap, usually with a visor, and sometimes tapered at the top. It is usually adorned with some kind of ornamental plate or badge on the front, metallic or otherwise, and often has a feather, plume , or pompom attached at the top.

The word shako originated from the Hungarian name csákó, which was a part of the uniform of the Hungarian hussar of the 18th century. Other spellings include chako, czako, schako and tschako.

From 1800 on the shako became a common military headdress, worn by the majority of regiments in the armies of Europe and the Americas. Replacing in most instances the light bicorne, the shako was initially considered an improvement. Made of heavy felt and leather, it retained its shape and provided some protection for the soldier's skull, while its visor shaded his eyes. The shako retained this pre-eminence until the mid-19th century, when spiked helmets began to appear in the army of Russia, which influenced armies of the various German States, and the more practical kepi replaced it for all but parade wear in the French Army. The Imperial Russian Army substituted a spiked helmet for the shako in 1844-45 but returned to the latter headdress in 1855, before adopting a form of kepi in 1864. Following the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, military fashions changed and cloth or leather helmets based on the German headdress began to supersede the shako in many armies.

Although the mid-nineteenth century shako was impressive in appearance and added to the height of the wearer, it was also heavy and by itself provided little protection against bad weather as most models were made of cloth or felt material over a leather body and peak. Many armies countered this by utilising specially designed oilskin covers to protect the shako and the wearer from heavy rain while on campaign. The shako provided little protection from enemy action as the most it could offer was in giving partial shielding of the skull from enemy cavalry sabres.

During the period of general peace that followed the Napoleonic Wars, the shako in European armies became a showy and impractical headdress that was best suited for the parade ground. As an example, the "Regency" officers' shako of the British Army of 1822 was eight and a half inches in height and eleven inches across at the crown, with ornamental gold cords and lace. Lt.Col.George Anthony Legh Keck can be seen in a portrait from 1851 wearing a 'broad topped' Shako that was topped by a twelve-inch white plume and held in place by bronze chin scales. The "Regency" shako was followed in the British Army by a succession of models —“Bell-topped”, “Albert", "French” and “Quilted” — until the adoption of the Home Service helmet, in 1877.
























Grandes Horizontales / Four Grandes Courtisanes

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Erotic exiles
Frances Wilson is seduced by Grandes Horizontales, Virginia Rounding's engrossing account of the glamorous courtesans who titillated 19th-century France

Frances Wilson
Saturday 12 July 2003 01.48 BST

Grandes Horizontales
by Virginia Rounding
337pp, Bloomsbury, £20

Being neither prostitute nor mistress but charging for those services a wife would give for free, the courtesan is an endlessly troubling figure. The ambivalence and uncertainty of her role is captured in the two titles by which she was most commonly known in 19th-century France: the grande horizontale and the demi-mondaine.

She was a symbol of decadence, as conspicuous and impertinent as Clésinger's scandalous statue of Apollonie Sabatier in the Musée D'Orsay, in which she appears magnificently horizontale, jutting her hips in the throes of orgasm.

But she was also barely visible, living as she did in the half-world, an exclusive underground terrain in which, like Eurydice, she was condemned to remain. A courtesan was a woman who fell from respectability and then rose to great heights in an alternative realm. She was an exile.

To complete this transferral from one world to the next a change of name was required, and the four grandes horizontales whose lives and legends are described by Virginia Rounding shared between them 15 names, including the titles bestowed on them by the public.

Marie Duplessis, whose childlike appearance and early death made her the prototype of the "modest" courtesan, was born Alphonsine Plessis, became Mme la Comtesse de Perregaux and was known posthumously as la dame aux camélias after her lover, Alexandre Dumas fils, portrayed her in his hit play as the saintlike Marguerite Gautier, who dies of a broken heart. "Compared with the courtesan of today," Barbey d'Aurevilly wrote when La Dame aux Camélias was revived in 1868, "and her monstrous corruption, squalor, language, slang and stupidity, Marguerite Gautier... seems nothing but a faded engraving of some vague design."

Esther Pauline Lachmann, the daughter of Russian Jews, was the type of contemporary courtesan of whom D'Aurevilly most disapproved. Shrewd and determined, she became known as La Paiva. The ambition and extravagance of La Paiva (whose husband's title was itself fictitious) were such that even Napoleon III asked to be shown around her marble, onyx and gold-encrusted palace, built for her by her lover and future husband, the Count Henckel von Donnersmark. After her death, Henckel remarried but kept her body in a large jar of embalming fluid, before which he would weep for hours.

Aglae-Josephine Savatier, whose more modest home became a salon for Bohemian intellectuals, including Baudelaire (who was her lover), Flaubert, Delacroix and Saint-Beuve, became Apollonie Sabatier, thus erasing any association between herself and a "savate", meaning an old, used slipper. Madame Sabatier was soon dubbed La Presidente, and such was her status that she received scatological and pornographic letters from Theophile Gautier.

English-born Cora Pearl, lover of Prince Napoleon, changed her name "for no particular reason" from Emma Crouch, but, as Rounding points out, she enjoyed word play and "the making of herself a gem strung on a chain of lovers". This changing of names was a form of reinvention but it was also a sign of the times: Louis Napoleon had adopted the title of Napoleon III, suggesting that one could be whoever one chose to be.

While courtesans have traditionally written about themselves as victims of an idle and hypocritical aristocracy who passed them around like after-dinner mints, they tend to have been written about in trifling, excitable, blushing terms, as though they represented no more than the glittering ephemera of a glamourous bygone age. Susan Griffin's The Book of the Courtesans (2001) and Joanna Richardson's The Courtesans (reprinted in 2000) idealise their subjects. Rounding breaks new ground; Grandes Horizontales is a historically precise, coolly analytical study of the rise and fall of second-empire Paris, a regime that is treated as inseparable from the dangerous opulence of the demi-monde.

After the Franco-Prussian war the extravagant lifestyles of the courtesans were blamed for the ills of France. "The first thought to enter everyone's head," wrote J de l'Estoile in 1871, "was where all the missing gold had gone." Most, it was presumed, was adorning the palace of La Paiva. Because Rounding sees courtesans as a product of economic and political pressure, she avoids the breathless prose and novelettish narrative that one tends to associate with tales of traviatas and marquises. "Amid all the glamour of the courtesan," Rounding reminds us, "there is a tendency to forget that money is being exchanged for sex."

The courtesan might appear to offer more than just her body: reputation was bought as well, along with wit, conversation, a good salon, beauty and status, but it was essentially sex she was selling.

"The actual nature of the transaction is veiled," Rounding writes; "when a demi-mondaine is looking for a protector, or even just a client, she is offering a package in which the sexual act is implicitly included but may be the one thing which is not overtly displayed."

So La Presidente advertised her sexuality instead in Clésinger's writhing statue and La Paiva trumpeted her accomplishments in her marble mansion. Cora Pearl played cupid in Offenbach's operetta Orphée aux enfers dressed only in strategically placed diamonds. The demi-mondaine only revealed half of herself, her promise and her success; this is what makes her so elusive, and thus so desirable.

Rounding is strong on the role and etiquette of the courtesan's salon and on the details of her appearance and toilette, but she is as interested in the legends generated by the grandes horizontales as she is in their lives, and she deftly analyses the ways in which fact and fiction bleed into one another in the making of a reputation. While none of her four women knew the others, they knew of one another, and Rounding shapes her narrative so that each life weaves into the next, as lovers are shared and others' legends are consumed. This is a rich, timely, engrossing book that puts its forerunners to shame.


· Frances Wilson's biography of the Regency courtesan Harriette Wilson will be published by Faber in the autumn.



Marie Duplessis
Marie Duplessis (15 January 1824 – 3 February 1847) was a French courtesan and mistress to a number of prominent and wealthy men. She was the inspiration for Marguerite Gautier, the main character of La Dame aux Camélias by Alexandre Dumas the younger, one of Duplessis' lovers. Much of what is known about her has been derived from the literary persona and contemporary legends.

Marie Duplessis was born Alphonsine Rose Plessis in 1824 at Nonant-le-Pin, Normandy, France. At the age of 15, she moved to Paris where she found work in a dress shop.

As recorded in art of the day Marie Duplessis was evidently an extremely attractive young woman, with a petite figure and an enchanting smile. By the time she was 16, she had become aware that prominent men were willing to give her money in exchange for her company in both private and social settings. She became a courtesan and learned to read and write, and to stay abreast of world events so as to be able to converse on these topics with her clients and at social functions. She also added the faux noble "Du" to her name.

Duplessis was both a popular courtesan and the hostess of a salon, where politicians, writers, and artists gathered for stimulating conversation and socializing. She rode in the Bois de Boulogne and attended opera performances. She also had her portrait painted by Édouard Viénot.

Duplessis was the mistress of Alexandre Dumas, fils between September 1844 and August 1845. Afterwards, she is believed to have become the mistress of composer Franz Liszt, who reportedly wished to live with her. Throughout her short life, her reputation as a discreet, intelligent, and witty lover was well known. She remained in the good graces of many of her benefactors even after her relationships with them had ended.

She was briefly married to at least one of her lovers: a French nobleman, Count Édouard de Perregaux.

Marie Duplessis died of tuberculosis at the age of 23 on 3 February 1847. Her husband the comte de Perregaux and her former lover the Baltic-German count Gustav Ernst von Stackelberg were by her side. Within a few weeks of her death, her belongings were auctioned off to pay her debts. Still, her funeral in Montmartre cemetery, where her body still rests, was said to have been attended by hundreds of people.

Dumas' romantic novel La Dame aux Camélias was based on Duplessis. It appeared within a year of her death. In the book, Dumas became "Armand Duval" and Duplessis "Marguerite Gautier". Dumas also adapted his story as a play, which inspired Verdi's opera La Traviata and various films.


Esther Lachmann / La Paiva
Esther Lachmann (7 May 1819 – 21 January 1884), generally known as La Païva, was arguably the most successful of 19th-century French courtesans. A a notable investor and architecture patron, and a collector of jewels, she had a personality so hard-bitten that she was described as the "one great courtesan who appears to have had no redeeming feature". Count Horace de Viel-Castel, a society chronicler, called her "the queen of kept women, the sovereign of her race".

Rising from modest circumstances in her native Russia to becoming one of the most infamous women in mid-19th-century France to marrying one of Europe's richest men, Lachmann maintained a noted literary salon out of Hôtel de la Païva, her luxurious mansion at 25 avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris. Completed in 1866, it exemplified the opulent taste of the Second Empire, and since 1904 it has been the headquarters of the Travellers Club.

Lachmann also inspired the promiscuous, traitorous spy Césarine ("a strange, morbid, monstrous creature") in Alexandre Dumas's 1873 play La Femme de Claude.

Born in Moscow, Russia, Esther Lachmann was the daughter of Martin Lachmann, a weaver, and his wife, the former Anna Amalie Klein, who were Jewish and of Polish descent.

On 11 August 1836, aged 17, Lachmann married Antoine François Hyacinthe Villoing, a tailor (died Paris, June 1849). They had one son, Antoine (1837-1862) who died while he was in medical school.

Lachmann left Villoing shortly after her son's birth, and after traveling to Berlin, Vienna, and Istanbul, she ended up in Paris, near the Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis and assuming the name Thérèse. Around 1840 she became the mistress of Henri Herz (1803-1888), a pianist, composer, and piano manufacturer, whom she met at Bad Ems, a fashionable spa town in Germany. The relationship gained her entry into artistic, though not aristocratic, society. Richard Wagner, Hans von Bülow, Théophile Gautier, and Emile de Girardin were all friends of the couple. Though Herz often introduced Lachmann as his wife, and she was commonly called "Madame Herz," the couple never married, since she already had a husband. The couple had a daughter, Henriette (ca. 1847-1859), who was raised by Herz's parents.

Lachmann's avariciousness took a toll on Herz's finances, and in 1848, after their affair began, he traveled to America to pursue business opportunities, including playing concerts, where his performances were characterized by "tameness and torpidity." While he was abroad, Lachmann's spending continued, and Herz's family turned her out of the house in frustration.

When it became clear that Lachmann was destitute after Herz left for America, one of her friends, courtesan Esther Guimond, had a solution. She took Lachmann to a fashionable milliner, Camille, who advised the Russian emigré to seek her fortune in London, where she could take advantage of that "fairy-land in which noble strangers present beautiful women with £40,000 or £50,000 a year in pin-money." Dressed in borrowed finery, Lachmann "managed to get to ... Covent Garden, where she made a profitable display of her other gifts". Her first British conquest was Edward Stanley, 2nd Baron Stanley of Alderley, and she became his mistress for a time.

Her affair with Lord Stanley was followed by other remunerative alliances with "other more or less well-known men of the day", including the duc de Guiche (later 10th duc de Gramont).


Cornelia Otis Skinner wrote that one of La Païva's conquests was Adolphe Gaiffe, a banker of whom she demanded twenty banknotes of one thousand francs each -- which, she stipulated, he must burn one by one during a scheduled 30 minutes of lovemaking. The banker decided to substitute counterfeit banknotes. Even so, the sight of their incineration was so unnerving that he could not accomplish his part of the tryst. Another source, however, states that the courtesan burned the notes, one by one, during her sexual congress with Gaiffe, who bet his friends he would be able to access her favors without payment -- and so he did, because the money was fake.

In the late 1840s, at the spa at Baden, Lachmann met Albino Francisco de Araújo de Paiva (1824-1873), an heir to two important Macao wholesale fortunes, each based, in part, on the opium trade. Though he was sometimes called a marquis or a viscount, Araújo was not an aristocrat and had no title, being the son of commoners, Albino Gonsalvez de Araújo, a Portuguese Colonial merchant, and his wife, the former Mariana Vilência de Païva. It is possible that that Araújo's spurious title came from a popular assumption that he was related to Viscount Païva, the Portuguese ambassador to Paris in the 1850s; however, they were not related.

Two years after Lachmann's first husband died, "Pauline Thérèse Lachmann" (as the marriage banns read) and her rich Portuguese suitor were married on 5 June 1851, at a church in Passy; the writer Théophile Gautier was one of the witnesses. The day following the wedding, however, according to the memoirs of Count Horace de Viel-Castel, the new Madame de Païva gave her husband a letter ending the marriage. "You have obtained the object of your desire and have succeeded in making me your wife," she wrote. "I, on the other hand, have acquired your name, and we can cry quits. I have acted my part honestly and without disguise, and the position I aspired to I have gained; but as for you, Mons. de Païva, you are saddled with a wife of foulest repute, whom you can introduce to no society, for no one will receive her. Let us part; go back to your country; I have your name, and will stay where I am".

Leaving his wife with the £40,000 in securities that were specified in their marriage contract, as well as all the furnishings of their house in rue Rossini, Araújo decamped for Portugal. Not long after their separation, his estranged wife's fortunes greatly changed, through an affair with one of Europe's richest men.

"La Paiva", as Lachmann became known after her second marriage, crossed paths in 1852 with the 22-year-old Prussian industrialist and mining magnate Count Guido Henckel von Donnersmarck. They met at a party given by the Prussian consul in Paris, and according to Count Viel-Castel, she pursued him across Europe, pretending not to be interested in him but always managing to be in the same city at the same time and at the same social events. The young Reichsgraf was smitten and, upon meeting her again in Berlin, offered to make La Paiva his mistress and declared that, if she agreed, she would share his fortune. La Paiva, who craved riches more than anything, was reported to have said, after settling down with the count, "All my wishes have come to heel, like tame dogs!"

On 16 August 1871, La Païva obtained an annullment of her marriage to Albino Francisco de Araújo de Païva, and two months later, on 28 October, Thérèse Lachmann (the name she used on the marriage certificate) wed Guido Georg Friedrich Erdmann Heinrich Adalbert, Count Henckel von Donnersmark, in the Lutheran Church in Paris. (The groom's gift to the bride was a triple-strand diamond necklace formerly owned by the deposed French empress, Eugénie.) As for La Païva's former husband, he committed suicide the following year, after his fortune was depleted by his ex-wife's avarice, gambling debts, and investments gone sour.



In addition to purchasing Château de Pontchartrain, near Paris, for La Paiva and giving her an annuity of £80,000, Henckel von Donnersmarck financed the construction of the most ostentatious mansions in Paris: Hôtel de la Païva, located at 25 avenue des Champs-Élysées. The land was acquired on 11 July 1855, and the couple commissioned architect Pierre Manguin. The house was finally completed in 1866 by architect Henri Lefeul, and among the artisans who participated in its creation was the young Auguste Rodin, then working for the sculptor Albert Carrier-Belleuse. Among the mansion's celebrated features is a central staircase made of Algerian yellow marble, which matched the Donnersmarck yellow diamonds, and a tub of the same North African stone; another tub, made of silver, had three taps, one being for either milk or Champagne.

La Païva reigned for years as a popular hostess known for her lavish open houses, teas, and dinners and salon frequented largely by well-known male writers, such as Gustave Flaubert, Émile Zola, Paul de Saint-Victor, Arsène Houssaye, and others, including the painter Eugène Delacroix. The bill of fare was so lavish that she overheard two guests discussing how much she could possibly be worth. One posited 10 million francs a year, at which comment La Païva scoffed, "You must be mad. Ten millions? Why that would barely yield an income of 500,000 francs. Do you think I could give you peaches and ripe grapes in in January on 500,000 francs a year? Why my table alone costs me more than that!"

The Henckel von Donnersmarcks also commissioned, in the 1870s, a country house known as Schloss Neudeck; the architect was Hector Lefeul, who worked on Hôtel de Paiva in Paris. Located on the couple's estates in Upper Silesia, Schloss Neudeck was demolished in 1961.

By the middle of the 19th century, age had eroded La Païva's physical charms, with Count Viel-Castel noting in 1857 that "she is at least forty years old, she is painted and powdered like an old tightrope walker, and she has slept with everyone ..."

A decade later, the Goncourt brothers, diarists of the Second Empire, provided the fullest eyewitness portrait of La Païva, then close to 50 years of age. "White skin, good arms, beautiful shoulders, bare behind down to the hips, the reddish hair under her arms showing each time that she adjusted her shoulder straps; a pear-shaped nose with heavy wings and the tip thick and flattened, like a Kalmuk's nose; the mouth a straight line cutting across a face all white with rice powder. Wrinkles which, under the light, look black in the white face; and down from each side of the mouth a crease in the shape of a horseshoe meeting beneath the chin and cutting across it in a great fold bespeaking age. On the surface, the face is that of a courtezan  who will not be too old for her profession when she is a hundred years old; but underneath, another face is visible from time to time, the terrible face of a painted corpse".

Esther Lachmann, Countess Henckel von Donnersmarck, died on 21 January 1884, aged 64, at Schloss Neudeck.

According to legend, La Paiva's husband preserved her body in embalming fluid but did not inter it, preferring to store it in an attic at Schloss Neudeck. It reportedly was later discovered by his second wife, Katharina Slepzóv (1862-1929), whom he married in 1887.


 Aglaé Joséphine Savatier
Apollonie Sabatier (born Aglaé Joséphine Savatier; 1822–1890) was a French courtesan, artists' muse and bohémienne in 1850s Paris. She hosted a salon in Paris on Rue Frochot, where she met nearly all of the French artists of her time, such as Gérard de Nerval, Nina de Villard, Arsène Houssaye, Edmond Richard, Gustave Flaubert, Louis Bouilhet, Maxime du Camp, Gustave Ricard, Judith Gautier, daughter of Théophile; Ernest Feydeau, father of Georges Feydeau, Hector Berlioz, Paul de Saint-Victor, Alfred de Musset, Henry Monnier, Victor Hugo, Ernest Meissonnier, Charles Augustin Sainte-Beuve, Charles Jalabert, Ernesta Grisi, Gustave Doré, the musician Ernest Reyer, James Pradier, Auguste Préault, Jules Barbey d'Aurevilly, Auguste Clésinger and Édouard Manet.

Gustave Flaubert, Théophile Gautier and some others have written articles about her and she was one of four women (Caroline, Jeanne Duval, herself and Marie Daubrun) who inspired Charles Baudelaire's famous work Les Fleurs du Mal. Edmond de Goncourt was the first to nickname her "La Présidente".

In Gustave Courbet's painting L'Atelier du peintre she is said to be shown together with her longtime lover, the Belgian tycoon Alfred Mosselman (1810-1867). After his death she was the longtime mistress to art collector and donor to the Wallace fountains, Sir Richard Wallace, 1st Baronet.


Apollonie Sabatier, sculpted by Auguste Clésinger



Cora Pearl 
Cora Pearl (1835–July 8, 1886), born Emma Elizabeth Crouch, was a 19th-century courtesan of the French demimonde who enjoyed her greatest celebrity during the period of the Second French Empire.

The date and place of her birth are uncertain. Her date of birth has been given as February 23, 1842, however the actual year may have been 1835. Her birth name too is uncertain. Source material indicates her given name to be Eliza Emma Crouch. The place of birth cannot be verified. It is known that the Crouch family resided on the south coast of England in the port city of Plymouth.

Her father was the cellist and composer Frederick Nicholls Crouch. The family endured constant financial uncertainty, and was plagued by debt. The strain of life caused her father to desert the home in 1847. Escaping his creditors, Crouch was able to make his way to America in 1849. With six young daughters to care for, her mother Lydia brought a man into the household, who was to be considered a “stepfather” by her children. The arrangement proved untenable for young Pearl and induced her mother to send her to a convent boarding school in Boulogne, France. She remained there for eight years, returning to England in 1854 or 1855 to live with her maternal grandmother in London. Life with her pious, kindly grandmother, Mrs. Watts, was a regulated one. Other than attending church services every Sunday, Pearl's activities were restricted to the home she and the elderly woman shared. The two took walks together through the London West End neighbourhood in which they resided located in proximity to Covent Garden.

It was a life she found confining and her restless nature and innate curiosity rebelled. She defied her grandmother’s cautions regarding the dangers a young woman faced out in the streets unchaperoned. On her own one day, she accepted the advances of an older man who approached her on the street, allowing him to take her to a drinking den where he wooed her with cakes and plied her with alcohol and ultimately took her virginity. Upon awakening, she found the man had left her a five-pound note — more money than she had ever seen. She was approximately twenty years old at the time and later said the encounter left her with "an instinctive horror of men."[2] While this may have been her first experience of this type, she was not entirely innocent of sexual matters. During her years at the all female French convent school she attended, she had engaged in numerous same-sex relationships. After her abrupt initiation into heterosexual sex, she did not return to her grandmother's home, nor go back to her mother, but rented a room for herself in Covent Garden.


On her own in London, Pearl made the acquaintance of Robert Bignell, proprietor of a notorious pleasure establishment, The Argyll Rooms. A combination of bar, dance hall, and women available for hire, it provided private alcoves and rooms where couples could retire for sexual activity. She soon vacated her single room and moved into a suite at the Argyll Rooms, becoming Bignell’s mistress. Studying the life around her she realized that the lot of the common prostitute was a tragic one, at best the women would end up "poor and degraded," at worst the future held "disease and death." She was determined to practice her trade with higher expectations. Her goal was to become the kept woman of select dedicated lovers, ones with the financial means to keep her in luxury.

Her involvement with Bignell lasted for some time. They traveled to Paris, posing as a married couple. So enamored did she become with the city that she insisted that Bignell return to London without her. She was determined to remain in the French capital. It was at this time that Emma Crouch became "Cora Pearl," a fanciful name chosen to resonate with the new identity and future she hoped to craft for herself in Paris.

Again on her own in a major metropolis, the self-christened Cora Pearl was initially forced to reside in humble quarters and offer her services to commonplace men. Working as a street prostitute, she made a connection with a procurer, a "Monsieur Roubisse," who set her up in more suitable quarters, taught her the business rudiments of her new trade and tutored her in refining and broadening her repertoire of professional skills. After six years, she despaired of ever freeing herself from his all-encompassing influence. However, fate stepped in, the procurer died of a heart attack, liberating Emma.

Her first lover of distinction was the multi-titled, twenty-five-year-old Victor Masséna, third Duke du Rivoli, and later fifth Prince of Essling. He set her up in opulence, showering her with money, jewels, servants and a private chef. He provided her with funds for gambling when she visited the casinos and racecourse in the fashionable resort of Baden, Germany. He bought her the first horse she ever owned, and she became an accomplished equestrienne; it was said "she rode like an Amazon" and "was kinder to her horses than her lovers." Her liaison with Masséna lasted five years. While cultivating Masséna, she was simultaneously sharing her favors with Prince Achille Murat, a man much older than Masséna.

By 1860, Pearl was one of the most celebrated courtesans in Paris. She was the mistress of notable aristocrats, the Prince of Orange, heir to the throne of the Netherlands, Ludovic, Duc de Grammont-Caderousse, and more significantly Charles Duc de Morny, who was the half-brother of the Emperor Napoleon III. The Emperor’s brother generously contributed to the opulent life Pearl demanded.

In 1864, Pearl rented a chateau in the region of the Loiret. Known as the Chateau de Beauséjour ("beautiful sojourn"), it was a luxuriously appointed residence of stained glass windows, costly decorations and immaculately maintained interiors and grounds. Her boudoir boasted a custom-made bronze bathtub monogrammed with her intertwined initials. The château was conceived for gala entertainments. There were rarely fewer than fifteen guests at the dinner table, and the chef was instructed to spare no cost on the expenditure for food. Pearl was known for devising entertainments of an unexpected and outrageous theatricality, of which she invariably was the star attraction. On one such evening, she dared the group assembled around the dinner table "to cut into the next dish" about to be served. The meal’s next course was Cora Pearl herself, presented lying naked on a huge silver platter, sprinkled with parsley, and carried in by four large men.

Her most dedicated benefactor and enduring admirer was Napoléon Joseph Charles Paul Bonaparte, the Emperor’s distinguished cousin. She met the extremely wealthy prince in 1868 when he was forty-two years old. Their liaison lasted nine years, the longest relationship in Pearl's career. He bought her several homes, one a veritable palace: "les Petites Tuileries."

In 1860, Pearl made an appearance at a masquerade ball attended by the elite of Parisian society. She caused a sensation as a scantily costumed Eve, whose degree of nudity diverged little from the biblical original. Invariably enthusiastic about exhibiting her physical charms to an audience, she took the role of a singing Cupid in the Jacques Offenbach operetta Orphée aux Enfers, (Orpheus in the Underworld) performed at the Theatre Bouffes-Parisien in 1867. It was written that "Cora Pearl made an appearance half-naked on the stage. That evening the Jockey Club in its entirety, graced the theatre. All the names…of French nobility were there…It was a success of a kind…" The chronicle of the evening continued, "Apparently the beautiful Cora Pearl had already munched up a brochette ("skewer") of five or six historical fortunes with her pretty white teeth."

The high point of Pearl’s career as courtesan were the years 1865-1870. In his biography of Pearl, The Pearl From Plymouth (1950), author W. H. Holden writes that there is evidence that Pearl regularly sent money to both her mother in England and father in America. For Cora Pearl, money was for spending, for accumulating the luxuries of life and buying her way to a coveted perch in the upper echelons of society. Her jewel collection alone was valued at some one million francs; at one point, she owned three homes, and her clothing was made for her by the renowned couturier Charles Frederick Worth. As her career prospered, the gifts from her suitors needed to be both costly and imaginative. She pitted her admirers against one other, raising the price for her favors as the game between competitors escalated. In her heyday, she was able to command as much as ten thousand francs for an evening with her.


She dressed creatively, with the intent to provoke either shock or awe. Théodore de Banville wrote of her affinity for dyeing her hair bold colors. She was seen riding out in her carriage, her hair the color of a lemon, dyed to match the carriage's yellow satin interior. She once appeared in a blue gown, her dog’s coat colored to match her wardrobe. She was a proponent of the obviously made-up face, using makeup for her eyelashes, eyes, and face powder tinted with silver or pearl to give her skin a shimmering translucence. Jean-Philippe Worth, the son of the couturier Worth, pronounced her "shockingly overdone." In 1867, a drink came into vogue, inspired by Pearl, dubbed the "Tears of Cora Pearl." Alfred Delvau wrote a tribute to Pearl in Les Plaisirs de Paris (1867): "You are today, Madame, the renown, the preoccupation, the scandal and the toast of Paris. Everywhere they talk only of you..."

Scandal: L'affaire Duval
At age thirty-seven, Pearl found herself involved in an incident that would result in an irreversible downturn in her fortunes. She had become embroiled in a relationship with a wealthy young man, Alexandre Duval, ten years her junior. His obsession with her was so intense, he spent his entire fortune on sustaining his liaison with her—giving her jewels, fine horses and money. It was reported that at one point Duval gave her an exquisitely bound book, a hundred-page volume where each page was bookmarked by a one thousand franc bill. Pearl ultimately dismissed him, a finality that Duval could not countenance. On December 19, 1872, Duval went to her home, it is believed, with the intention of killing her. The gun he brought accidentally discharged, wounding him. Initially near death, he eventually recovered. Nevertheless, the consequences of what had occurred proved disastrous for Cora Pearl’s reputation. Publicized as l'affaire Duval, the scandal caused the authorities to order Pearl to leave the country.

She fled to London, thinking that a change of scene might improve her spirits and her reputation, only to find that rumour had traveled faster than her ship.

Her attempts at continuing her career as a courtesan in London were unsuccessful. She returned to Paris.

The Franco-Prussian War of 1870 brought at its end a new French republic and a cultural as well as political shift. The era in which Pearl had achieved her greatest success was over. The Third French Republic saw a diminution of aristocratic privilege and a resurgence of conservative values. She was no longer able to attract the titled men who had been her prime clients. In 1874, her long tenure as the mistress of Prince Napoleon ended at his request. He wrote her a touching, carefully worded letter of regret; he could no longer sustain the emotional and professional toll the relationship required of him.

Pearl was slowly forced to liquidate the fortune she had accumulated. While not destitute, by 1880 her financial situation had become dire. In 1873, she sold her rue Chaillot home. By 1883, she had returned to common prostitution, taking an apartment above the shop of a coachbuilder on the avenue Champs-Elysées, where she received clients. In July 1885, she was forced to sell her chateau in the Loiret.

Her reduced finances did not abate her passion for gambling. Habitually committed to playing for large stakes, she was now restricted to betting modest amounts. Julian Arnold, an old acquaintance, encountered Pearl outside a casino in Monte Carlo. He later wrote in his memoirs: "I found a woman seated on the kerbstone and weeping pitifully. She appeared to be about fifty years of age, handsome…but much bedraggled." She told him that she had been turned out of her apartment, her few belongings seized by the landlord in lieu of rent. She had no place to go, and she was hungry and in misery.

The Mémoires de Cora Pearl had been greatly anticipated when it became known that Pearl was penning the story of her career as courtesan to the rich and mighty. Published in 1886, the book proved a dull disappointment and soon disappeared. Pearl had made a feeble attempt to disguise the names of the key players and given a tame recitation of her past. There is some speculation that the work was ghost written, as Pearl’s facility with French was known to be lacking.

In the early 1980s, William Blatchford claimed to have located the Memoirs of Cora Pearl, which he said had been published in 1890, after Pearl’s death. Supposedly an earlier version of the book published in 1886, this volume purported to date back to an earlier date, perhaps even as early 1873. Decidedly more frank and sexually explicit than the 1886 memoirs, their idiomatic English - expressive of a provincial, unsophisticated use of the language - convinced many people of the work's authenticity when the memoirs were published by Granada under the title Grand Horitzontal, The Erotic Memoirs of a Passionate Life. However, Blatchford turned out to be a pseudonym adopted by the real author of the 'memoirs', Derek Parker, a former chairman of the Society of Authors, who later admitted that he had hoaxed Granada.

Soon after the publication of her memoirs, Pearl became gravely ill with intestinal cancer. Her biographer Holden writes: "The various accounts of Cora spending her last days in dire poverty in one squalid room are very much exaggerated." She died on July 8, 1886. Obituary notices appeared in the London and Paris papers. Her remaining possessions were disposed of in a two-day sale in October 1886. She is buried in Batignolles cemetery, (plot number 10, row 4), her grave unmarked by a tombstone.

Savile Row AW15 , St James's & Woolmark Fall Winter 2015 / VÍDEO (Below)

Tailored Stories - An Oral History of Savile Row

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This film celebrates the history and skills of the men and women in the bespoke tailoring industry with candid stories of pride and hardship, working conditions, conflict and camaraderie and brushes with the famous and powerful. Most of all, this film puts those who have made the area synomomous with the highest quality craftsmanship at the centre of this history.
http://www.tailoredstories.org.uk/


"The Price of Salt"/ Carol: the women behind Patricia Highsmith's lesbian novel

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Carol: the women behind Patricia Highsmith's lesbian novel

Todd Haynes’s film of Highsmith’s only openly lesbian novel, Carol, is about to premiere in Cannes, starring Cate Blanchett. Novelist Jill Dawson writes about the women behind the book

Jill Dawson
Wednesday 13 May 2015 10.40 BST

Patricia Highsmith was in love many times and with many women – “more times than rats have orgasms”, to use one of her own more disquieting similes. She plundered these objects of her desire extravagantly in her 22 novels and hundreds of short stories. Not one glance, not one feminine gesture or foible of any one of her many girlfriends was ever wasted, but only once – and spectacularly – did she write openly about lesbianism. This was her second novel, Carol, first published as The Price of Salt in 1952, with Highsmith using the pseudonym Claire Morgan, and now adapted into a Todd Haynes film starring Cate Blanchett and Rooney Mara (star of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo) and just about to premiere at Cannes.

In 1952 Highsmith, barely 30, perhaps startled by the wayward success of her first novel Strangers on a Train (conferring instant stardom when the Hitchcock movie followed a year later), had good reason to be edgy about the reception The Price of Salt would receive. “Those were the days when gay bars were a dark door somewhere in Manhattan, where people wanting to go to a certain bar got off the subway a station before or after the convenient one, lest they were suspected of being homosexual,” she wrote, in a postscript to the novel, many years later.

She showed some early extracts to her favourite teacher from Barnard College, Ethel Sturtevant, whose excited reply – “Now this packs a wallop!” – probably alarmed and reassured the former student in equal measure. Highsmith’s own publisher Harper & Brothers rejected it, so it was published first by a small press, and the solution of the pseudonym Claire Morgan was decided on.

“It flowed from the end of my pen as if from nowhere,” Highsmith wrote. She also admitted a specific inspiration: a “blondish woman in a fur coat”, who wafted into Macy’s in New York to buy her daughter a doll. Highsmith was working there as a sales-girl during the Christmas rush. On her day off she took a bus to New Jersey, found the woman’s house (from the address on the sales slip) and simply walked by it.

There was another inspiration for the character of Carol: Highsmith’s former lover Virginia Kent Catherwood, the elegant and well-heeled socialite from Philadelphia, whose divorce in the 1940s had kept gossip columnists in New York in a state of scandalised delirium with its lesbian intrigue. “Ginnie” and Highsmith were lovers in the mid 1940s and full vent is given in Highsmith’s diary to her powerful desire for her lover and also, at times, the feelings of murderous vengefulness that are expressed in all of Highsmith’s writings. Catherwood had lost custody of her child after a recording made of her in a hotel bedroom with another woman was used in court against her, a detail mined for the plot of The Price of Salt in a way that gave Highsmith pause. In the end the detail stayed, an essential driver to the narrative, making the love affair between Carol and the younger, mute-with-longing Therese (based on Highsmith herself) all the more perilous and poignant.

The cult success of The Price of Salt came a year later when the paperback edition was published as a Bantam 25‑cent edition. A mass-market version with the catchline “The novel of a love society forbids” swiftly followed. It soon chalked up a million copies. “Claire Morgan” received a stream of letters at her publisher from women writing: “Yours is the first book like this with a happy ending!” and: “Thank you for writing such a story. It is a little like my own story.” By the time the writer Marijane Meaker met her in 1960, Highsmith, “a handsome, dark-haired woman in a trenchcoat” was fully identified as Morgan and the novel “stood on every lesbian bookshelf, along with classics like The Well of Loneliness; We, Too, Are Drifting; Diana and Olivia”.

Yet Highsmith remained ambivalent about the novel. In particular she was worried about what her 84-year-old grandmother, Willie-Mae, who had raised her whenever her young mother, Mary, was out of town, would make of it. Highsmith never lied to her mother and stepfather; she assumed they knew she was gay. But that didn’t mean she wanted to discuss it with them, or anybody else. To her girlfriend Meaker, she was outspoken: “The only difference to us and heterosexuals is what we do in bed.” Her courage and openness about her sexuality were real and admirable, not least because it warred with her intensely private nature. But her anxiety was real, too. She was furious when her mother, many years later, told her grandmother about the novel, explaining to an unrepentant Mary that the obvious point of using a pseudonym was to keep something private.

Two biographies (by Andrew Wilson and Joan Schenkar) depict Highsmith as troubled, obsessive and in many ways unsavoury. They chart her alcoholism, her rudeness, her meanness. They reveal how later in life she frequently exploded in virulent anti-semitic and racist rants; the increasing isolation she preferred to live in; her eccentricities – that she kept snails as pets is one of the few things many people know about her. Yet love simmers away, deep in the ugly hearts of the most psychopathic and dangerous of her characters (the obsessive stalking of David Kelsey in This Sweet Sickness, or the confused infatuation that turns to murderous hate in Tom Ripley in The Talented Mr Ripley).

When The Price of Salt was finally published as Carol by Bloomsbury 40 years later, Highsmith proved as difficult an interviewee as she had always been. She saved her honesty for her novels.


• Carol is premiered at Cannes 2015. Jill Dawson’s novel The Crime Writer, about Patricia Highsmith, will be published next year.




JEEVES would like to wish all the visitors and followers of TWEEDLAND a Happy Christmas !

London's 14 oldest stores

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London's 14 oldest stores
One of the joys of shopping in London today comes from discovering any number of traditional stores that have remained little changed since they were founded hundreds of years ago. These are some of the oldest…


 1676 - Lock & Co Hatters (6 St. James’s St., SW1, tel 020 7930 8874, lockhatters.co.uk) is both the world’s oldest hat store and one of the oldest family businesses still in existence. Sir
Winston Churchill, Charles Chaplin, and Admiral Lord Nelson, among other luminaries, have donned Lock headwear. Let’s not forget Firmin & Sons, which doesn’t retain an old store but survives as probably the third oldest business in London after the Whitechapel Bell Foundry (1570) and the London Gazette (1665). It made belts, buttons, uniforms, and insignia; the company supplied buttons to every British monarch, officially, since 1796.
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Taken from National Geographic London Book of Lists: The City’s Best, Worst, Oldest, Greatest, and Quirkiest (National Geographic Books; ISBN 978-1-4262-1382-3; $19.95) by Tim Jepson and Larry Porges.
Picture: GETTY


1689 - Ede & Ravenscroft (93 Chancery Lane, WC2, tel 020 7405 3906, edeandravenscroft.co.uk). The oldest tailor, wig-, and robe-maker in London (and probably the world) began in the Aldwych area of the city. It was soon supplying robes to William and Mary and has continued to serve the monarchy, as well as the legal, clerical, municipal, and academic professions.
Picture: GETTY


1698 - The “Widow Bourne” established London’s oldest wine business, Berry Brothers & Rudd (3 St. James’s St., SW1, tel 0800 280 2440, bbr.com), more than three centuries ago. Eight generations later, it’s still in the same family, at the same address. During its long history, it first supplied the royal family in 1830 as well as the wine for the Titanic.
Picture: GETTY


1706 - In 1706, Thomas Twining bought Tom’s Coffee House at 216 Strand. The location, between the City and Westminster, was ideal for picking up business from wealthy Londoners displaced west by the Great Fire. Twinings & Co (tel 020 7353 3511, twinings.co.uk) still sells tea and coffee from the same address.
Picture: GETTY


1707 - William Fortnum was a footman at the court of Queen Anne and had a sideline selling partly burned candles from the royal candelabra. Using the money he amassed, he set up a grocery store with his landlord, Hugh Mason. The fine food emporium Fortnum & Mason (181 Piccadilly, London, W1, tel 0845 300 1707, fortnumandmason.com) remains on the same site to this day.
Picture: GETTY


1730 - Does any store smell better than Floris (89 Jermyn St., SW1, tel 020 7747 3600, florislondon.com), a perfumer still at the site on which it was founded in 1730 by Spaniard Juan Famenias Floris? Much of the store’s beautiful interior dates from 1851, when the counter and wooden display cases were brought from the Great Exhibition of that year.
Picture: ALAMY


1750 - Swaine Adeney Brigg (7 Piccadilly Arcade, St. James’s, SW1, tel 020 7409 7277, swaineadeney.co.uk) still makes the exquisite leather goods for which it first became famous, along with hats and umbrellas.
Picture: GETTY


1760 - Hamleys (188-196 Regent St., W1, tel 0871 704 1977, hamleys.com) is the world’s oldest toy store, but it has moved several times since its first incarnation — a store known as Noah’s Ark founded in 1760 by William Hamley at 231 High Holborn, WC1, which was destroyed by fire in 1901.
Picture: GETTY


1787 - James J. Fox, or Robert Lewis as it then was (19 St. James’s St., SW1, tel 020 7930 3787, jjfox.co.uk), provided possibly the most famous cigars in the world—those smoked by Sir Winston Churchill—and is the world’s oldest cigar merchant. It has a museum (closed Sun., free), with cigar memorabilia dating back to the firm’s foundation.
Picture: ALAMY


1790 - D. R. Harris & Co. (29 St. James’s St., W1, tel 020 7930 3915, drharris.co.uk) began as Harris’s Apothecary, established by surgeon Henry Harris to sell lavender water, cologne, and English flower perfumes to the fashionable set of St. James’s. It is still there, a few doors down from the original address, and still sells shaving products, aftershaves, colognes, and skincare items from beautiful old premises.
Picture: ALAMY


1797 - Hatchard’s (187 Piccadilly, W1, tel 020 7439 9921, hatchards.co.uk) is the United Kingdom’s oldest bookstore and still trades from Piccadilly, where the company was founded. Most of the great British authors of the recent and distant past have visited the store, which often has an extensive collection of signed copies for sale.
Picture: GETTY


1797 - Paxton & Whitfield (93 Jermyn St., London, SW1, 020 7930 0259, paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk) smells almost as good as its nearby neighbor, Floris, but in a different way, for this is a purveyor of fine cheeses. The company has its roots in the county of Suffolk and operated a market stall at Aldwych before moving to this site in 1797.
Picture: ALAMY


1806 - Henry Poole & Co. (15 Savile Row, W1, 020 7734 5985, henrypoole.com) is acknowledged as both the first tailor shop to set up on Savile Row (in 1846) and as the place where the dinner jacket, or tuxedo, was invented.
Picture: GETTY


1830 - There can be only one place for umbrellas, canes, and walking sticks in London: the historic premises of James Smith & Sons (53 New Oxford St., WC1, tel 020 7836 4731, james-smith.co.uk), which have remained almost unaltered for more than 140 years—though the business is older still.
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Taken from National Geographic London Book of Lists: The City’s Best, Worst, Oldest, Greatest, and Quirkiest (National Geographic Books; ISBN 978-1-4262-1382-3; $19.95) by Tim Jepson and Larry Porges.
Picture: ALAMY

Downton Abbey Christmas Special 2015 Reviews / VÍDEO: SERIES FINALE (Christmas Special 2015) (6x09)

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Downton Abbey review: the glorious fantasy of Britain comes to an end

The posh period drama had great performances and even the odd insight into British life – and its final episode leaves a gaping hole in ITV’s Sunday schedule

Richard Vine
Saturday 26 December 2015 00.01 GMT

They managed to resist covering everything in snow until the very end, but Downton Abbey’s final ever episode was very much a kitchen sink affair. Julian Fellowes chucked in a wedding, a birth, new jobs and old fights, and a spirited version of Auld Lang Syne to wrap it all up.

The big rivalry between Michelle Dockery’s Lady Mary and Laura Carmichael’s Lady Edith was resolved. Dinner at The Ritz helped. Lady Mary engineered a sneaky date with Bertie (aka the 7th Marquess of Hexham), and soon Lady Edith had fought off her destiny as the great spinster of Downton and was instead making plans for a New Year’s wedding (saves on decorations, plus it’s one less big party scene to film) and life as a Marchioness.

“You’re such a paradox: you make me miserable for years, then you give me my life back,” said Edith to Mary, a line that no doubt echoes the sentiments from many of Downton’s unwilling viewers in living rooms across Britain. Lady Edith even found the courage to knock Bertie’s mother off her moral high horse with a truth bomb: admitting that ward Marigold is her illegitimate daughter.

Henry Talbot (Matthew Goode, adding some last-minute class to proceedings) gazed into the distance, smoking with all the existential angst of a man about to enter a new year without much to do. Watching a pal die while motor racing will do that to a chap. Tom came to the rescue with a plan, and the ex-chauffeur and the ex-racing car driver teamed up to become second-hand car salesmen – just what the village needs!

Bates and Anna got their happy ending: a New Year’s baby, with Lady Mary for once helping Anna off with her shoes, and tucking her into bed – see what they did there? Countess Violet (Maggie Smith) continued to be the Downton character with the most uptown funk, stepping in to help Isobel Crawley fend off Dickie Merton’s mean daughter-in-law (“If reason fails, try force!”), and Lady Rose returned to up the glamour factor (Lily James in a cameo presumably tucked in before her starring role in BBC1’s lavish New Year’s Day production of War And Peace).

Elsewhere, the arrival of an electric hairdryer (whatever next!) prompted Daisy to chop off her hair and join the bob squad, Mr Molesley accepted a job as a teacher (but still squeezed back into his livery for New Year) and Baxter freed herself from her criminal past by … doing nothing.

After all these years, it’s still hard to nail down what Downton Abbey actually is. UK critics might have been surprised to see it nominated again in this year’s US Emmy awards for best drama – the only British entry, alongside Game of Thrones, Orange Is the New Black and Mad Men. But it’s been a proper international blockbuster, up there with Doctor Who and Top Gear in terms of British TV with cut-through appeal across the world.

At home, the show has always played like a posh pantomime – a fantasy vision of a Britain that never really existed, where everyone from kitchen maid to second footman is happy with their lot because the people at the top are such bally decent chaps. It’s also ended up being a place where both the staff grinding away downstairs and the toffs in ball gowns upstairs have been gifted with a peculiar sense of foresight, a tangible sense of their place in history and how “things” will never be the same again, once they’re off the screen.

It’s certainly the purest Sunday night soap we’ve had for years; sometimes it’s been an hour populated by 20-odd characters in search of a plot, and sometimes it’s filled with great performances and insight into class and position.

We leave the cast staring hopefully at the dawn of 1926, the class system alive and well, and only the gaping hole in Sunday night’s TV schedules to make the ITV bosses sad. You can imagine them sympathising with Isobel and Violet’s final toast at New Year: “We’re going forward to the future, not back into the past.” “If only we had the choice.” It’ll be a while until ITV produces anything as ridiculous and successful as Downton Abbey.


Downton Abbey Christmas special finale, ITV, review: An unashamedly sentimental send-off

'With any luck, they’ll be happy enough, which is the English version of a happy ending'

Sarah Hughes

After six series, 51 episodes and almost a decade’s worth of drama, misunderstandings and withering putdowns, Downton Abbey came to an end with a feature-length Christmas special containing a wedding, a pregnancy, a birth, the prospect of new horizons and the changing of the old guard.

As ever with Julian Fellowes’ long-running tale of life above and below stairs the plot wasn’t really the thing (although it was a pleasure to see permanently thwarted valet Barrow finally given a reason to smile after Lord Grantham named him butler on Carson’s enforced retirement).

This was the ultimate piece of Christmas television viewing, an unashamedly sentimental send-off that saw wrongs righted, love conquer all and even Lady Mary’s famous Freudian slip down a notch.

“We’re sisters and sisters keep secrets,” she remarked of her fraught relationship with Lady Edith, as close as long-term viewers will get to an acknowledgement that she was in the wrong.

Yet even as we said farewell to the assorted members of the Crawley clan, thoughts turned to what ITV will do next. Fellowes’ comforting, conservative confection became a global phenomenon, watched in 250 territories worldwide and pulling in over 120 million viewers globally.

It was particularly big news in America where ratings have continued to rise even as the most devoted fans acknowledged that the writing had slipped.

It could also be said to have single-handedly revived ITV’s fortunes – in 2010, the year the series began, the channel trebled its annual profits posting a pre-tax total of £312million up from £108 million the previous year.

In March 2014 ITV posted full-year pre-tax profits of £712 million. The pressure now will be on to find a suitable replacement with the smart money on Daisy Goodwin’s upcoming take on the early life of Queen Victoria which features former Doctor Who star Jenna Coleman in the lead role.

Even with that pedigree the new series will have some way to go to rival Downton’s appeal.

As to why this series hit the spot above all others pulling in millions of viewers each week, the answer is simple: beneath the Big House trappings, the elegant costumes and the tantalising peaks into how the other half might once have lived, Downton Abbey was a soap opera.

You always knew how each character would act and react and, like any good soap, the more plots changed the more they stayed the same.

The 1900s might give way to the roaring Twenties and the Crawleys strive to adapt with the times but our enjoyment came from knowing that this was a show where even the darkest moments came bathed in warm nostalgia for times long past.

As the episode finished Fellowes unashamedly made one last bid for our heartstrings cuing up the familiar strains of Auld Lang Syne as snow fell thick outside.


In truth Maggie Smith’s Dowager Duchess of Grantham had delivered the best obituary earlier when she remarked: “With any luck they’ll be happy enough, which is the English version of a happy ending.” Few among us could ask for more.

INTERIORS / SUNDAY IMAGES

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