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The incorrigible latin lover. / Fernando Lamas / VÍDEO: How Did Fernando Lamas Feel About Billy Crystal's Impression of Him? - W...

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"When a person has an accent, it means they can speak one more language than you"  

The incorrigible latin lover.
After Porfirio Rubirosa , “Tweedland” presents Fernando Lamas.
“JEEVES”

"Sometimes other men said that he was gay, and nothing pleased him more than proving them wrong with their own wives.”

Born Fernando Álvaro Lamas y de Santos in Buenos Aires, Argentina, by 1942, he was an established movie star in his native country. His first film made in the United States was The Avengers in 1950. In 1951, he signed a contract with Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer and went on to play "Latin Lover" roles.

In 1951, he starred as Paul Sarnac in the musical, Rich, Young and Pretty and as Juan Dinas in the comedy, The Law and the Lady. Throughout the 1950s, Lamas had leading roles in a number of MGM musicals, including Dangerous When Wet with his future wife Esther Williams. After the beginning of the 1960s, he turned to TV series; mostly appearing in guest roles. From 1965 to 1968, Lamas had a regular role as Ramon De Vega on Run For Your Life, which starred Ben Gazzara.

Lamas directed for the first time in 1963. It was a movie titled Magic Fountain starring his future wife Esther Williams. He directed another feature film, The Violent Ones, which was released in 1967 and co-starred Aldo Ray and David Carradine. He was most active directing on television, doing episodes that included Mannix, Alias Smith and Jones, Starsky and Hutch and Falcon Crest. The latter show co-starred his son, Lorenzo.




Lamas was married four times. His first marriage was to Argentine actress Perla Mux in 1940 and they had a daughter, Christina before divorcing in 1944.

His second marriage was in 1946 to Lydia Barachi. Fernando and Lydia also had a daughter, Alexandra. They were later divorced in 1952.

His third wife was the American actress Arlene Dahl. They were married in 1954. They were later divorced in 1960. Out of this marriage was born a son, Lorenzo Lamas (born January 20, 1958).

His longest marriage was to the well known swimmer and actress Esther Williams in 1969, and they remained married until Fernando's death in 1982.

Fernando Lamas died of pancreatic cancer in Los Angeles, California at the age of 67. His ashes were scattered by close friend Jonathan Goldsmith from his sailboat.

After his death, Lamas's archetypal playboy image lived on in popular culture via the "Fernando" character developed by Billy Crystal on Saturday Night Live in the mid-1980s. The character was outlandish and exaggerated but reportedly inspired by a remark Crystal heard Lamas utter on The Tonight Show; "It is better to look good than to feel good." This was one of the Fernando character's two catchphrases along with the better-remembered "You look marvelous!" (usually spelled "mahvelous" in this context).

His friend, actor Jonathan Goldsmith, took inspiration from Lamas for the character The Most Interesting Man in the World.




Hitchcock/Truffaut Documentary / Book / Hitchcock/Truffaut Official Trailer 1 (2015) -

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Hitchcock/Truffaut is a 
2015 French-American documentary film directed by Kent Jones about François Truffaut's book on Alfred Hitchcock, Hitchcock/Truffaut, and its impact on cinema.
Truffaut interviewed Hitchcock over eight days in 1962 at his offices at Universal Studios to write his book, and the documentary features reflections from directors including James Gray, Martin Scorsese, Paul Schrader, Wes Anderson, David Fincher, Arnaud Desplechin, and Olivier Assayas.
It was first screened at the 2015 Cannes Film Festival and was shown in the TIFF Docs section of the 2015 Toronto International Film Festival.

Directed by Kent Jones
Produced by Charles S. Cohen
Olivier Mille
Written by Kent Jones
Serge Toubiana
Based on Hitchcock/Truffaut
by François Truffaut
Starring Alfred Hitchcock
François Truffaut
Music by Jeremiah Bornfield
Cinematography Nick Bentgen
Daniel Cowen
Eric Gautier
Mihai Malaimare Jr.
Lisa Rinzler
Genta Tamaki
Edited by Rachel Reichman
Distributed by Cohen Media Group
Release dates
19 May 2015 (Cannes)
2 December 2015 (US)
Running time
79 minutes
Country France
United States
Language English
French
Japanese


 Hitchcock/Truffaut is a 1966 book by François Truffaut about Alfred Hitchcock, originally released in French as Le Cinéma selon Alfred Hitchcock.
First published by Éditions Robert Laffont, it is based on a 1962 exchange between Hitchcock and Truffaut, in which the two directors spent a week in a room at Universal Studios talking about movies. After Hitchcock's death, Truffaut updated the book with a new preface and final chapter on Hitchcock's later films.


The book is the inspiration for the 2015 documentary, Hitchcock/Truffaut.
In Hitchcock, film critic François Truffaut presents fifty hours of interviews with Alfred Hitchcock about the whole of his vast directorial career, from his silent movies in Great Britain to his color films in Hollywood. The result is a portrait of one of the greatest directors the world has ever known, an all-round specialist who masterminded everything, from the screenplay and the photography to the editing and the soundtrack. Hitchcock discusses the inspiration behind his films and the art of creating fear and suspense, as well as giving strikingly honest assessments of his achievements and failures, his doubts and hopes. This peek into the brain of one of cinema’s greats is a must-read for all film aficionados.



Review: ‘Hitchcock/Truffaut’ Revisits the Master of Suspense
Hitchcock/Truffaut NYT Critics’ Pick
By JEANNETTE CATSOULISDEC. 1, 2015

“Psycho” (1960) was the first film I saw in a movie theater, an experience that my 7-year-old self was ill-equipped to parse. Surrounded by jittery adults, I puzzled over everything, and not just the frantic screaming that mimicked Bernard Herrmann’s devilishly clever musical cues. Why, I wondered, was Janet Leigh wandering around in her bra in the middle of the afternoon?

That juxtaposing of sex and terror was as essential to Alfred Hitchcock’s cinematic style as his meticulous deployment of icy blond actresses. Disappointingly, Kent Jones’s documentary “Hitchcock/Truffaut” — though not nearly as dry as its title — barely tickles Hitchcock’s fascinating fetishes. Despite a promising nod to the brilliant perversions of “Marnie” and “Vertigo” (which few can deny is one terrifically sick movie), Mr. Jones remains rigidly focused on hammering home the director François Truffaut’s motivation for writing the 1966 book on which this film is based: To lead Hitchcock, then widely considered a mere commercial entertainer, out of the shoals of populism and into the cineaste spotlight. Truffaut knew that hindsight was better than no sight at all.

Just as a snooty reader might be enticed to the novels of Stephen King by a thumbs-up from The New York Review of Books, movie buffs were likely to view Truffaut’s enthusiasm for Hitchcock as a sufficient entree to their discerning fold. But the book, an engrossing record of Truffaut’s dayslong interview with his idol in 1962, did more than just reposition its subject’s reputation. It also provided riveting insight into the art and craft of moviemaking, revealing Hitchcock’s mastery of time and space and his unwavering preference, honed by his period of making silent movies, for image over dialogue.

Curating a selection of the original interview recordings (whose sound quality is damn near pristine), Mr. Jones fashions an unfaltering encomium that’s entirely free of the highfalutin monologues that might deter noncinephiles. Bob Balaban’s intermittent narration is soft and unintrusive, and a chorus of lauded directors, mostly American and all male (I can’t help thinking that a woman might have dug deeper into the significant contributions of Hitchcock’s wife and collaborator, Alma Reville), chime in with acuity and ardor.

What they don’t do is show how their own movies might have been influenced by Hitchcock’s technique, which Mr. Jones lovingly illustrates in dissections of a few of the master’s most memorable scenes. Though merely a tasting menu, these moments add jolts of pulpy fun and allow their creator to speak for himself. The man who embraced many of the characteristics that movie snobs love to denigrate — his genre; his prolific output (at the time of the interview, he was just completing his 48th film); the constraints of the studio system — is finally his own best argument for the happy coexistence of art and entertainment.

“Hitchcock/Truffaut” is rated PG-13 (Parents strongly cautioned). Have you seen ‘Psycho’? Running time: 1 hour 20 minutes.

The Print Room / Castletown House / VÍDEO below

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 The Print Room/ Castletown House
The Print Room is one of the most important rooms at Castletown. It is the only fully intact eighteenth century print room left in Ireland. During Lady Louisa’s time it became popular for ladies to collect their favourite prints and then arrange and paste them on to the walls of a chosen room, along with decorative borders. At Castletown, Louisa, together with her sister Sarah, decorated this former ante room in 1768. She had been collecting prints since at least 1762, and the Print Room can be seen as a scrapbook of mid eighteenth century culture and taste. Included amongst the prints is Joshua Reynolds’ portrait of Louisa’s sister Sarah, sacrificing herself to the graces. Continuing the family theme the north wall features a print after Van Dyck of the children of Charles I, including the future Charles II, Louisa’s great grandfather. Contemporary popular culture is represented by two prints of the leading actor David Garrick; he is pictured between the muses of tragedy and comedy above the fireplace, and with the actress Sarah Cibber on the opposite wall. Amongst the artists featured are, Rembrandt, Guido Reni, Teniers and Le Bas.

Unusually this print room survived changes in taste and fashion, although the room seems to have been slightly rearranged in the mid 19th century. In the late nineteenth century this room was used as a billiards room but the present furnishings more accurately reflect its original purpose as a small or private sitting room.


 The English Print Room Phenomenon
Posted on 19 March 2010 by Kathryn Kane

The phenomenon of the English Print Room …

The original print rooms in great houses across the Continent were exactly what one might suppose them to be, rooms in which fine art prints were displayed. From the seventeenth century right though to the mid-nineteenth century, the print room was a feature of many homes of wealthy gentlemen who were connoisseurs of art. These print rooms were typically smaller in size than a gallery for the display of paintings, in keeping with the smaller size of most prints. The prints displayed in these rooms could be rare or unique, and were always of great value.

As had been done for centuries, the prints might be kept in cabinets or in shallow drawers in tables, should they be very fine or unusual prints. Alternately, they might be kept in albums, often leather bound, to protect them from the light. Each print was mounted on an album page of heavy paper and originally, parallel lines of ink or watercolor borders were made around the print on the paper. Often these parallel lines were filled in with a colored watercolor wash, giving the effect of a frame around the print. Or, the print might actually be framed on its page by a paper frame made especially for the purpose. By the latter decades of the eighteenth century, these paper frames had become very popular and were usually designed and produced by the same print-makers who were making the prints which they framed. Some print collectors would use a wide and varying range of frame styles for these paper frames, but others would settle on a single paper frame style designed solely for their use. Once such collector who had his own print frame design was the artist Thomas Lawrence, who had one of the finest print collections ever assembled.

In some cases, the prints were framed, sometimes under glass, and hung on the walls of the print room, skyed as paintings would have been, that is, the wall was carpeted with many prints in various sizes, hung in tiers from the cornice or crown molding to the dado or chair rail. In many cases in such print rooms, the walls were curtained, as were the walls of some painting galleries. These curtains would be kept closed over the prints, except when they were being viewed, in order to protect them from light damage.

Another version of the print room, which was found only in Britain, blended the techniques of album and wall display. The prints were mounted directly on the walls of the print room and were framed with the paper print frames typically used to frame prints in albums. They were arranged on the print room walls in skyed fashion, just as actual framed prints would have been. An example of this blended type of print room is the Print Room at Uppark in West Sussex. Prints displayed in this way were typically inexpensive and commonly available copies of popular paintings, rather than rare fine art prints. These prints might be hand-colored or, more often they were grisaille, in either shades of gray or sepia.

Print rooms of this type were more likely to be seen in the homes of those without the financial resources of affluent connoisseurs. Those with a taste for art without the wealth to afford original paintings often purchased the less expensive engravings of those works which they could display in their homes in the same way the aristocracy displayed their expensive paintings. For example, young Englishmen who took the Grand Tour on a budget would acquire prints and engravings as souvenirs, rather than paintings and sculpture. These engravings would then be displayed in the print rooms of their homes when they returned. Often, the decoration of these print rooms would be done by their wives, sisters or mothers.

By the mid-eighteenth century, many ladies, in all ranks of society, collected inexpensive prints, often on a specific theme, like animals, landscapes or mythological scenes. When they had gathered enough, they would paste their prints to the walls of a small sitting or dressing room. If they were impatient, they might decorate one wall of a room as soon as they had enough prints, doing each additional wall as they gathered more prints. Some young girls would begin collecting such prints in anticipation of decorating a small room in their home after they married. It was at about this time that many stationers, printers and some booksellers sold the paper frames, ribbon swags and other decorative paper embellishments which these ladies needed to enhance their personal print rooms.

This last type of print room was known only in Britain and occassionally in America. There are no instances of this method of print display in Europe. It also seems clear that these print rooms were seldom, if ever, decorated by professional decorators. Most of these print rooms were very personal spaces, most often decorated by the lady or ladies who used them, even in rather grand houses. There are a few instances of print rooms which were more public in nature, such as that at Uppark, but in most cases, even those were most often the product of the members of the household, usually female, who selected the prints, decided their arrangement and color scheme, and affixed the prints and their paper embellishments to the walls.

By the end of the eighteenth century, instead of pasting the prints directly on the walls of the room, it became the practice to paper the walls first with a plain paper of a single, usually pale, color. The print rooms in less affluent homes were papered with uncolored paper-hangings which were painted after they were affixed to the wall. In either case, once the paper was hung and dry, the prints would then be pasted to that, after which the paper frames, ribbon swags and other paper embellishments would be pasted to the walls to complete the design.

Paper-stainers, those who manufactured paper-hangings, soon got the idea of making paper-hangings which were essentially ready-made print rooms. These papers where covered with images of prints surrounded by paper frames and other embellishments on a solid color ground. Once hung, they were a good approximation of a print room with significantly less effort. These paper-hangings, like the earlier print rooms, were found only in Great Britain, and occasionally in America. There is some evidence that sets of print-room papers were exported to Europe, but not in high volume. These papers sold reasonably well in England, but they did not replace the real print room. Even into the Regency, there were too many ladies across the country who had their heart set on creating their own print room to be willing to settle for one ready-made of paper-hangings.

There are a few large houses that have print rooms which are still intact. One of these, the only one in Ireland, can still be seen at Castletown House in County Kildare, Ireland. This was the home of Lady Louisa Lennox Connolly, and her husband, Thomas Connolly. It is known that the prints for this room were being collected as early as 1762. This room has cream-colored walls covered with sepia-tone prints and embellishments which Lady Louisa and her friends cut out and applied to the walls. I had an opportunity to see this print room in person when I was living in Ireland years ago. Though the room is rather larger than the average print room, it is still a cozy, charming and essentially feminine room, as were the majority of print rooms created by the many English ladies who decorated their own personal print rooms from the mid-eighteenth century though the early nineteenth century.

Though the fashion for print rooms in England began in the mid-eighteenth century, it continued into the years of the Regency and there is no reason print rooms could not be woven into the plot of a Regency romance. Ladies might get together to help a friend prepare the prints and embellishments to be affixed to a print room wall, gossiping all the while. A young lady with a love of art might secretly plan her own small print room, carefully collecting prints with botanical designs or scenes from Aesop’s Fables, perhaps slipping out to the print shops from time to time to search for more prints for her collection. An impoverished widow might have to give up hope of her own print room and settle for a room papered with a set of inexpensive paper-hangings with a print-room design.

I was pleasantly surprised to discover, during the course of my research for this article, that the English print room has not faded into the mists of history. I found two different web sites which offer services for creating print rooms in the twenty-first century. I have no affiliation with either of these companies, but both of them have a number of good images of print rooms and offer services for those who are interested in having their own print rooms two hundred and fifty years after they were first fashionable. You can visit Holly Moore Interiors or The English Print Room, for more information.



 Castletown House, Celbridge, County Kildare, Ireland, is a Palladian country house built in 1722 for William Conolly, the Speaker of the Irish House of Commons.It formed the centrepiece of a 550-acre (220 ha) estate. Sold to developers in 1965, the estate is now divided between State and private ownership.


The Brideshead Generation Evelyn Waugh and His Friends By Humphrey Carpenter

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'[The Brideshead Generation] has both style and substance, and is above all an enjoyable companion. It has a wildly amusing cast, here controlled by a skilful director.'"Evening Standard"

'Jovial and entertaining, full of the sort of stories that your friends will tell you if you don't read it before them.'"Independent"

'Carpenter has read widely and has collected an enormous fund of entertaining stories and facts.'"Sunday Telegraph"

'Hauntingly sad and wonderfully funny and by far the best thing Humphrey Carpenter has done.' Fiona MacCarthy, "The Times"


 Review By William Tegner on July 6, 2003

This is an admirable book, well written, balanced and well researched. After a slightly hesitant start, the scene shifts to Oxford in the early twenties; it comes across as a very dissolute place, with distinct homosexual undertones. The noticeable "public school" backdrop leaves you wondering why anyone should send their child to an English boarding school (at very great expense, incidentally). But they did, and still do. However, at Oxford we are introduced to a veritable galaxy of talent, including Evelyn Waugh, the lead character in the book, Graham Greene, John Betjeman, Osbert Lancaster, Anthony Powell and others. There are some very amusing quotes and anecdotes.
But the book becomes increasingly serious, and whilst not specifically a work of literary criticism, it cites reviews and gives the background to the works of Waugh and to a lesser extent others. It also looks at the curious world of the Roman Catholic convert. At the end I felt a little sad for Waugh and some of his contemporaries. In spite of their achievements, by no means all of them seemed happy.


Books of The Times; When Wit Was All And Kindness Was Nil
By MICHIKO KAKUTANI
Published: December 22, 1989

The Brideshead Generation Evelyn Waugh and His Friends By Humphrey Carpenter 523 pages. Illustrated. Houghton Mifflin. $27.95.

''She almost wished in this new mood of exaltation that she had come to the party in fancy dress. It was called a Savage party, that is to say that Johnnie Hoop had written on the invitation that they were to come dressed as savages. Numbers of them had done so; Johnnie himself in a mask and black gloves represented the Maharanee of Pukkapore, somewhat to the annoyance of the Maharajah, who happened to drop in. The real aristocracy, the younger members of those two or three great brewing families which rule London, had done nothing about it. They had come on from a dance and stood in a little group by themselves, aloof, amused but not amusing.''

Evelyn Waugh's wicked description of a party in ''Vile Bodies'' gleefully captures the inane posturing of the Bright Young Things who came of age in London during the 1920's, and at the same time it captures the brittle mood of Waugh's own Oxford generation: a sense of postwar futility gaudily disguised as frivolity; a yearning after the aristocratic values of a vanished, nondemocratic age; a willful determination to substitute hedonism and witty detachment for seriousness and introspection.

Though Humphrey Carpenter's new book, ''The Brideshead Generation,'' touches briefly upon the forces that shaped Waugh and his friends -namely, the convulsive aftereffects of World War I, and the emergence of a new bourgeois society - it makes little serious attempt to situate this group of writers within the continuum of English cultural history or to assess its overall achievement. The reader who is interested in the social impulses that led to the ascendency of Waugh's circle (a group that included Cyril Connolly, Graham Greene, John Betjeman, Anthony Powell, Nancy Mitford, Harold Acton and Brian Howard) would do better to examine Martin Green's ''Children of the Sun,'' an original and absorbing study that carefully examines the emergence of these writers vis-a-vis earlier and later literary groups personified by Kipling, Orwell and Auden.

As for ''The Brideshead Generation,'' the book pretty much limits itself to chronicling the careers of Waugh and some of his friends, drawing heavily upon these writers' fiction and autobiographical works, and such secondary sources as Christopher Syke's biography of Waugh.

Because these authors wrote so cleverly about themeselves, because their lives were so crammed with colorful anecdotes, ''The Brideshead Generation'' makes for fast, diverting reading. Though much of the material is just old literary gossip, Mr. Carpenter manages to do a fluent job of weaving this information in with pithy analyses of individual books and casual sketches of overlapping social worlds. The reader gets to see John Betjeman, the future poet laureate of England, carrying his teddy bear (like Sebastian in ''Brideshead Revisited'') around the Oxford campus; the young Graham Greene playing Russian roulette with a loaded revolver, and an aging Waugh taunting unwanted guests with his huge antique ear trumpet.

The snobbish, insular realms of Eton and Oxford are conjured up in a couple of brief chapters, and the reader is quickly immersed in the acutely class-conscious politics of student society. The esthetic choices made during these school days would later shape entire lives and careers, but many of those choices appear to have initially been made on completely arbitrary grounds.

According to Mr. Carpenter, the future art connoisseur Harold Acton became an ardent proponent of mid-Victorian style because his rival esthetes at Oxford had already put dibs on the period of the 1890's; the only other viable alternative - ''to become pure modern'' - was embraced by Auden's circle. Waugh, Mr. Carpenter suggests, similarly gravitated toward political conservatism as an expedient social measure. Though he and his public school pals had ''sometimes posed as 'Bolshevik,''' writes Mr. Carpenter, Waugh realized, upon his arrival at Oxford, ''that if he were to join one of the left-wing groups at Oxford he would 'find the competition too hot.'''

In a well-known passage in ''Enemies of Promise,'' Cyril Connolly posited the theory that the experiences he and his contemporaries had undergone as students were ''so intense as to dominate their lives and arrest their development. From these it results that the greater part of the ruling class remains adolescent, school-minded, self-conscious, cowardly, sentimental, and in the last analysis homosexual.''

Certainly the adolescent aspect applies quite pointedly to many of the writers in this volume. Though he outgrew his youthful fantasies of suicide, Greene has spent the better part of his life traveling the globe, looking for other ways of escape. With ''Enemies of Promise'' and ''The Unquiet Grave,'' Connolly became a specialist in the themes of futility and self-reproach. Brian Howard evaded his early literary promise by spending the better part of his life aimlessly wandering about Europe, before committing suicide in 1958.

Waugh, of course, went on to write a series of wonderfully comic novels - as well as the more elegiac ''Brideshead Revisited'' - but by middle age, he had sunk deep into an alcohol-soaked depression, his pose of defensive detachment calcifying into a ferocious misanthropy that alienated family and friends. He took a journalist to court for implying that his brother Alec's books had sold more than his own; and he complained that his own children were ''defective adults'' - ''feckless, destructive, frivolous, sensual, humourless.''

By the end of his life, he was constantly complaining that he was ''bored bored bored.'' It was a depressing and somehow fitting end to a life that increasingly revolved - like much of his social set's - around the snobbish distinctions of wealth and class, and a glittering but empty series of parties, drinking bouts and stupid jokes.










"GOLDEN PATINA" / SUNDAY IMAGES

Vintage Fashion Complete by Nicky Albrechtsen

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 The most comprehensive and ambitious guide to vintage fashion ever produced’– Vintage Explorer Magazine

‘… opens a window on how good ideas skip the years to fertilise a future designer’s imagination’– The Guardian

Brilliant … beautiful … a real definitive guide to style throughout the 20th century and an incredible reference for anybody interested in vintage fashion and design’– NorthLondonVintageMarket.blogspot.co.uk

Indispensable as a reference book for the vintage fashion enthusiast, 'Vintage Fashion Complete' truly is a “Fashion Bible” ’– Inretrospect Magazine


• Explores every aspect of a woman’s vintage wardrobe in over 1,000 stand-out examples, from dresses and skirts to hats, shoes and bags, drawn from fashions from the 1920s to the 1980s.
• Not just another history of fashion, this is a survey of how fashion past continues to inspire fashion present – as seen on the street, on the catwalk, and on devotees such as Kate Moss and Sienna Miller.
• Designs by world-famous names feature alongside lesser-known brands beloved of collectors, such as Lilli Ann and Horrockses Fashions.
• Unique handmade pieces as well as icons of vintage fashion, from Marilyn Monroe’s bra to the Ossie Clark dress that famously features in David Hockney’s painting.
• Includes invaluable practical tips on how to build a collection, and how to date, clean and care for vintage clothing.

Nicky Albrechtsen is a costume designer and the proprietor of the vintage resource studio Vintage Labels, which sources inspirational clothing for fashion, textile and costume designers. She is the author of The Printed Square; Scarves (with Fola Solanke); and Fashion Spectacles, Spectacular Fashion (with Simon Murray), all published by Thames & Hudson.


Vintage Fashion Complete
Nicky Albrechtsen
ISBN 9780500517611
30.80 x 24.00 cm
Hardback without Jacket
432pp
With over 1,300 illustrations

First published 2014



Vintage Fashion Complete
Reviewed by:
Jeffrey Felner

an objective, insightful, well researched, heavily documented and illustrated book . . .”

Vintage Fashion Complete is one of those books whose title might or might not be a misnomer. The fact and reality it is that this is an epic undertaking that looks at the world of vintage clothing and accessories in the most comprehensive, authoritative, and encyclopedic way. Albrechtsen provides the reader with an all-encompassing point of view that is remarkably unbiased and factual without ever being preachy.

If you are expecting a book filled with names from the annals of fashion history, then move on as this is void of such, but if you want to know the origins, the trends, and the evolution of fashion then this is indeed should be your book of choice.

What keeps the reader so rapt is that the approach taken here is not the same path as been taken before by other titles dealing with this area of fashion. For instance, this epic volume uses a physical timeline as only one division or aspect for the book instead of basing its entire format on chronology.

Combine the timeline with trends in fabrics, silhouettes, prints, millinery, shoes, fashion jewelry, swimwear, aprons, and much much more, and it is then that you start to comprehend the full breadth of the subject matter.

Even more to her credit, Albrechtsen unearths some names and trends that have long since been forgotten and yet were major components in the history of fashion such as the brand Mister Pants and a 70s phenomenon of the beaded butterfly top. It is so easy to forget or overlook what existed, when there are marquee names that so often overshadow other brands and trends.

Another case in point is the name of Dorothee Bis which is most certainly overlooked in related titles. The book leans heavily on the Brits of fashion, but given that Albrechtsen is British, well, it is understandable. For some this might be a deficit.

As a summary of sorts, Vintage Fashion Complete serves as a history of fashion as well as a directory of vintage fashion. Albrechtsen is to be applauded for turning out an objective, insightful, well researched, heavily documented and illustrated book that is a credit to her knowledge as well as to the industry, past and present. This is a book to be used as reference, as education, and certainly for pleasure.

Jeffrey Felner is a dedicated participant and nimble historian in the businesses of fashion and style. Decades of experience allow him to pursue almost any topic relating to fashion and style with unique insight and unrivaled acumen.

The Chinese Room, Claydon House / VÍDEO: Claydon House Virtual Tour

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The Chinese Room in Claydon House is the most elaborate Chinoiserie interior surviving in Britain. It was designed in 1769 by Luke Lightfoot. Above each door is a pagoda motif supported by Chinese figures. Oriental faces also appear among the flowers around the chimney-piece. The most remarkable part of the room is the tea alcove which is painted with a latticework design and covered in an abundance of Chinoiserie details.





Style Guide: Chinoiserie

Chinoiserie, from 'chinois' the French for Chinese, was a style inspired by art and design from China, Japan and other Asian countries. In the 18th century porcelain, silk and lacquerware imported from China and Japan were extremely fashionable. This led many British designers and craftsmen to imitate Asian designs and to create their own fanciful versions of the East. The style was at its height from 1750 to 1765.

Characteristics

Chinese figures
People in Chinese clothes are a feature of the Chinoiserie style. Sometimes these figures were copied directly from Chinese objects, but more frequently they originated in the designer's imagination.

Fantastic landscapes
In 18th-century Britain, China seemed a mysterious, far-away place. Chinoiserie drew on this exotic image. Objects featured fantastic landscapes with fanciful pavilions and fabulous birds, sometimes inspired by those depicted on actual Chinese objects.

Dragons
To British designers Chinese and Japanese dragons summed up all that was strange and wonderful about the East. These mythical beasts became common Chinoiserie motifs.

Pagodas
The sweeping lines of the roofs of Chinese pagodas were incorporated into a wide range of Chinoiserie objects.

People

Sir William Chambers (1723-1796)
Sir William Chambers is best known as a classical architect, but in his garden buildings he worked in a great variety of styles including Chinoiserie. As a young man Chambers travelled in the East, visiting the great Chinese port of Canton (Guangzhou). In 1757 he published Designs of Chinese Buildings which contained his observations. He designed a number of Chinoiserie buildings for Kew Gardens. The pagoda, aviary and bridge were not based on any real Chinese examples, but Chambers did aim for accurate imitations which contrast with the rather fanciful creations of his contemporaries.

Jean Pillement (1728-1808)
Jean Pillement was a French artist who settled in London in 1750. He was a major designer of Chinoiserie decoration, who published two influential collections of prints - A New Book of Chinese Ornaments, published in 1755, One Hundred and Thirty Figures, Ornaments and Some Flowers in the Chinese Style of 1767. Pillement's fanciful images of Chinese figures, pavilions, flowers and foliage were copied and adapted for all kinds of objects including ceramics, wallpaper, furniture and most especially textiles.

William (1703-1763) and John Linnell (1729-1796)
Father and son William and John Linnell were very successful 18th-century furniture manufacturers. In about 1754 they designed one of the earliest Chinoiserie interiors in Britain, the Chinese bedroom commissioned by the 4th Duke and Duchess of Beaufort for Badminton House in Gloucestershire. The most dramatic piece of furniture the Linnells made for the room was the bed. This typifies the Chinoiserie style with its pagoda-like canopy embellished with dragons, its decorative latticework and its imitation lacquer surface in red, blue and gold.
Sir William ChambersJean PillementWilliam and John LinnellJohn Linnell
Buildings and Interiors

Kew Gardens, Surrey
The botanical gardens at Kew, on the outskirts of London, were established in 1759 by the Dowager Princess Augusta. She employed the architect William Chambers to create a number of exotic Chinese and Moorish style buildings. His famous pagoda remains the most celebrated example of Chinoiserie in Britain. The publication of Chambers' plans and views of Kew in 1762 started a fashion for Chinese-style gardens.
www.kew.org

Chinese Room, Claydon House
The Chinese Room in Claydon House is the most elaborate Chinoiserie interior surviving in Britain. It was designed in 1769 by Luke Lightfoot. Above each door is a pagoda motif supported by Chinese figures. Oriental faces also appear among the flowers around the chimney-piece. The most remarkable part of the room is the tea alcove which is painted with a latticework design and covered in an abundance of Chinoiserie details.
www.nationaltrust.org.uk/claydon

Related Style
Rococo 1730 - 1760
Chinoiserie was closely related to the Rococo style. Asymmetry, scrolling forms and an element of fantasy characterise both styles. Rococo and Chinoiserie styles were often used together in interior decoration or even combined in a single object.







Claydon House is a country house in the Aylesbury Vale, Buckinghamshire, England, near the village of Middle Claydon. It was built between 1757 and 1771 and is now owned by the National Trust.

The exterior of the house is quite austere — seven bays in total, on two floors, with a three-bayed central prominent elevation surmounted by a pediment. The fenestration is of sash windows. (The ground floor windows are crowned by small round windows suggesting a non-existent mezzanine.) The centre bay contains a large central venetian window on the ground floor

By contrast to the exterior the interiors are an extravaganza of rococo architecture in its highest form. The principal rooms: the north hall, a double cube room (50 ft × 25 ft × 25 ft high (15.2 m × 7.6 m × 7.6 m)) may have lost its adjoining hall under the lost dome. However, its magnificence remains. The broken pedimented door cases are adorned with rococo carving, by Luke Lightfoot, the most talented wood carver of the era, who worked extensively on the great mansion. His work can be found on the ceiling and the niches in the walls. The adjoining saloon is slightly more restrained in its decoration. However the ornate carving continues into the dado rails, and onto the Corinthian columns supporting the huge venetian window. The third principal room was redecorated as a library by Parthenope, Lady Verney in 1860. The plaster rococo ceiling remains in all its splendour.

A staircase of inlaid ivory and marquetry leads to the first floor. The walls of the staircase hall are ornamented with medallions and carved garlands reflecting the theme established in the main reception rooms. The wrought iron balustrade of the stairs contains ironwork ears of wheat, which rustle like the real thing as one ascends the flights.

The marvel of the first floor is the Chinese room: one of the most extraordinary rooms in the house if not England. Here the rococo continues, but this time in a form known as chinoiserie — essentially a Chinese version of the rococo decorative style. The entire room is a fantasy of carved pagodas, Chinese fretwork, bells and temples while oriental scrolls and swirls swoop around the walls and doors reaching a crescendo in the temple-like canopy, which would have once contained a bed, but now gives a throne-like importance to a divan.

Also on this floor is a small museum dedicated to the nursing pioneer Florence Nightingale, the sister of Parthenope, Lady Verney. In her later years Nightingale regularly stayed at the house.

The Swans of Fifth Avenue by Melanie Benjamin / VÍDEO : Vanity Fair's The Best-Dressed Women of All Time: Babe Paley

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The Swans of Fifth Avenue

The New York Times bestselling author of The Aviator's Wife returns with a triumphant new novel about New York's "Swans" of the 1950s—and the scandalous, headline-making, and enthralling friendship between literary legend Truman Capote and peerless socialite Babe Paley.

Of all the glamorous stars of New York high society, none blazes brighter than Babe Paley. Her flawless face regularly graces the pages of Vogue, and she is celebrated and adored for her ineffable style and exquisite taste, especially among her friends—the alluring socialite Swans Slim Keith, C. Z. Guest, Gloria Guinness, and Pamela Churchill. By all appearances, Babe has it all: money, beauty, glamour, jewels, influential friends, a high-profile husband, and gorgeous homes. But beneath this elegantly composed exterior dwells a passionate woman—a woman desperately longing for true love and connection.

Enter Truman Capote. This diminutive golden-haired genius with a larger-than-life personality explodes onto the scene, setting Babe and her circle of Swans aflutter. Through Babe, Truman gains an unlikely entrée into the enviable lives of Manhattan's elite, along with unparalleled access to the scandal and gossip of Babe's powerful circle. Sure of the loyalty of the man she calls "True Heart," Babe never imagines the destruction Truman will leave in his wake. But once a storyteller, always a storyteller—even when the stories aren't his to tell.

Truman's fame is at its peak when such notable celebrities as Frank and Mia Sinatra, Lauren Bacall, and Rose Kennedy converge on his glittering Black and White Ball. But all too soon, he'll ignite a literary scandal whose repercussions echo through the years. The Swans of Fifth Avenue will seduce and startle readers as it opens the door onto one of America's most sumptuous eras.



The Swans of Fifth Avenue’ review: Would you trust Truman Capote?
By Caroline Preston February 1

For those of us who are women of a certain age and have subscriptions to Vanity Fair, the star-crossed friendship between Truman Capote and socialite Babe Paley was the stuff of tabloid legend. They met cute in the mid-’50s when he hitched a ride on the Paleys’ private plane. When her husband, CBS titan Bill Paley, heard that “Truman” was coming, he was expecting the former president, not the flamboyant boy author. Capote soon became Babe’s favorite lunch date and weekend guest who could be counted on for gossip, flattery and a sympathetic ear. Over the next 20 years, he became “her analyst, her pillow, her sleeping pill at night, her coffee in the morning.” She entrusted him, unwisely, with the most shameful secrets of her sexless marriage.

Like many great loves, theirs ended in a tragic betrayal. In 1975, Capote published “La Cote Basque, 1965,” an excerpt from his unfinished novel, “Answered Prayers.” Over a long, drunken lunch at the famous restaurant, Lady Ina Coolbirth shares some of the most lurid tales of her high-society friends. One is about a multimedia tycoon, Sydney Dillon, who has a squalid one-night stand and desperately tries to wash the stained bedsheet before his wife gets home. Babe, who was dying of lung cancer at the time, recognized the similarity to her husband. Capote had, literally and literarily, aired her dirty laundry; she refused to speak to him ever again.

In her highly entertaining new novel, “The Swans of Fifth Avenue,” Melanie Benjamin investigates the bonds between this mismatched pair and Capote’s self-destructive urges that eventually ruptured them. The novel’s narrative structure is a bit like wandering through La Cote Basque at lunchtime and overhearing snippets of conversation. In alternating chapters, Capote and Babe offer their own versions of their friendship. Celebrity characters also weigh in with their two cents: socialites Slim Keith and Pamela Churchill Harriman, Truman’s lover Jack Dunphy, Diana Vreeland and Bill Paley.

Benjamin has proved an able chronicler of the inner lives of women partnered to famous, narcissistic men. In her bestselling novel “The Aviator’s Wife,” the introspective narrator, Anne Morrow Lindbergh, examined her suffocating marriage to the chilly, autocratic Lindy.


But what was the inner life of Babe Paley, a woman renowned solely for her exteriors — her Vogue-model face, her best-dressed-hall-of-fame wardrobe, her exquisitely decorated homes? Benjamin looks for an answer in an oft-repeated description by none other than Capote himself: “Babe Paley has only one fault — she’s perfect. Other than that, she’s perfect.”




Melanie Benjamin is the author of the New York Times and USA Today bestselling historical novel, The Aviator's Wife, a novel about Anne Morrow Lindbergh. Her previous historical novels include the national bestseller Alice I Have Been, about Alice Liddell, the inspiration for Alice in Wonderland, and The Autobiography of Mrs. Tom Thumb, the story of 32-inch-tall Lavinia Warren Stratton, Melanie Benjamin
Photo by Deborah Feingold a star during the Gilded Age. Her novels have been translated in over ten languages, featured in national magazines such as Good Housekeeping, People, and Entertainment Weekly, and optioned for film.

Melanie is a native of the Midwest, having grown up in Indianapolis, Indiana, where she pursued her first love, theater. After raising her two sons, Melanie, a life-long reader (including being the proud winner, two years in a row, of her hometown library's summer reading program!), decided to pursue a writing career. After writing her own parenting column for a local magazine, and winning a short story contest, Melanie published two contemporary novels under her real name, Melanie Hauser, before turning to historical fiction.

Melanie lives in Chicago with her husband, and near her two grown sons. In addition to writing, she puts her theatrical training to good use by being a member of the Penguin Random House Speakers Bureau. When she isn't writing or speaking, she's reading. And always looking for new stories to tell.


TWEED RUN AMSTERDAM / Sunday, May 8 at 12 PM

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 These gentlemen are obviously planning beautiful things ...

TWEED RUN AMSTERDAM
Sunday, May 8at 12 PM
START : Tommy Page
Prinsenstraat 7, 1015 DA Amsterdam, Netherlands

“The Vintage Showroom – an archive of menswear” by Gunn & Luckett

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 “The Vintage Showroom – an archive of menswear” by Gunn & Luckett 

Praised by Karl Lagerfeld as "the place for inspiration", The Vintage Showroom is a unique collection of men's vintage clothing, revered by collectors, fashion designers and stylists, who rent out its unique pieces as a source for new designs. plit into four chapters of Aviation & Motorsports. Tailoring and Dress Uniforms, Utility & Denim, Sportswear & Weatherwear, The Vintage Showroom provides a unique overview of the best pieces from the collection. Featuring everything from a bearskin bomber jacket and fur-lined flying trousers to the original US navy peacoat and waterproofs worn on the British Antarctic Survey, the book is a mine of ideas for designers and stylists. Lavishly illustrated with specially commissioned photography, showing the clothing details and highlighting the features that make each piece unique, this beautiful volume will be a must-have for designers and fashionistos everywhere.
Douglas Gunn and Roy Luckett are co-founders of The Vintage Showroom, a definitive collection of 20th-century menswear. With over 35 plus years knowledge and experience of vintage clothing between them their collection has become a must-see destination for fashion designers from around the world.


 http://www.thevintageshowroom.com/blog/

SHOWROOM / STUDIO
20 Buspace Studios
Conlan Street
London, W10 5AP
e: dmg@thevintageshowroom.com

SHOP
14 Earlham Street
Seven Dials, Covent Garden
London, WC2H 9LN
t: +44 (0)207-836-3964
e: sm@thevintageshowroom.com







KINGPINS SHOW / AMSTERDAM
  Amazing week in Amsterdam at the ever Impressive Kingpins show in Westergasfabriek.








Marella Agnelli: The Last Swan

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 Donna Marella Caracciolo di Castagneto was born in Florence, as member of the House of Caracciolo, of the high Italian nobility. Her father was Don Filippo Caracciolo, 8th Prince di Castagneto, 3rd Duke di Melito, and hereditary Patrician of Naples (1903–1965), from an old Neapolitan noble family. Her mother was the former Margaret Clarke (1898–1955) of Peoria, Illinois. She had two brothers, Don Carlo Caracciolo (1925–2008), who inherited their father's titles in 1965 and founded the newspaper La Repubblica, being known as the "editor prince", referring to his aristocratic birth and elegant manner;[4] and Don Nicola Caracciolo (born 1931), the holder – since 2008 – of the titles, as 10th Prince di Castagneto, 5th Duke di Melito, and hereditary Patrician of Naples.

She was married in the Church of Osthoffen to Fiat tycoon Gianni Agnelli on 19 November 1953; they would remain married until his death on 24 January 2003. They had two children
Agnelli, who was educated in Paris, was an assistant to Erwin Blumenfeld in New York City early in her varied career, as well as an occasional editor and photographic contributor to Vogue. In 1973, she created a textile line for Abraham-Zumsteg, for which she was awarded the Resources Council's Roscoe (the design trade's equivalent of the Oscar) in 1977.

An avid gardener, Agnelli has authored a number of books on the subject, also providing many of the photographs. Two of her books are about the Garden of Ninfa (1999) and The Agnelli Gardens at Villar Perosa (1998).

More recently, she oversaw the opening of the Renzo Piano-designed art gallery Pinacoteca Giovanni and Marella Agnelli (it:Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli), built on the roof of the former Lingotto Fiat factory in Turin, Italy. The Agnelli collection includes Picasso, Renoir, Canaletto, Matisse and Canova materpieces.

The reserved, patrician tastemaker and socialite is also known for her inclusion in Truman Capote's circle of "swans"– wealthy, stylish, and well-married women friends whose company he adored because they "had created themselves, as he had done", and "had stories to tell" According to Capote, Agnelli was "the European swan numero uno", the youngest in a group that included Babe Paley, Gloria Guinness, C. Z. Guest, Slim Keith, and Pamela Harriman, among others. In her autobiography, Washington Post publisher and Capote friend Katharine Graham recounts that the author once told her that if Paley and Agnelli were "both in Tiffany's window, Marella would be more expensive"

She was portrayed in the American biographical film Infamous (2006) by Isabella Rossellini.



Fairytale of the jetset swans

Nick Foulkes looks back in rapture at the effortless glamour of the 1960s globetrotting elite

BY NICK FOULKES NOVEMBER 02, 2013 07:00

The recent death of Alan Whicker reminded me of one of my all-time favourite pieces of television – a documentary he made on Fiona Thyssen (née Campbell-Walter) in the early 1960s. She was one of the first women to make modelling socially acceptable; so socially acceptable that she caught the eye of a young baron, Heinrich “Heini” Thyssen. In his copyrighted cadences, Whicker introduces us to the glamorous baroness as if narrating a “once upon a time” jetset fairytale: “One day a rich Baron – a very rich Baron – swept down out of the mountains to claim her as his third bride and carry her off to a place at the end of the rainbow where rich people go to be happy: St Moritz.”

The best thing is that not only does she look rich and happy, she is drop-dead gorgeous in a leopardskin coat, driving her open-topped silver-blue BMW 507 at speed to the airstrip at Samedan where her husband has just landed in a light aircraft. In another scene, she is having her hair dressed while trying on a ring of 25 carats, diamond drop earrings of 25 carats a piece, and a densely set necklace with a stone the size of a hen’s egg, which she guessed is at least a further 50 carats .

I first caught this documentary late one night and was transfixed. This was the 1960s that I had longed to see ; the sleek world of the jet set, evoked by the lines of the song Where Do You Go To (My Lovely)? and the 1965 film Darling. Thing was, this piece of non-fiction television topped everything. And it is this weakness for a fairytale time that was actually true that compelled me to write a book about these people, who lived on a scale that even now seems extraordinary – Gloria Guinness reportedly decorating her husband’s plane with Louis XVI furniture; the Shah asking Lanvin to design clothes for his courtiers. As for jewels, women were dressed in gems in the way that the rest of us might bedeck a Christmas tree.

What made this period in jewellery design fascinating was the arrival of the jet aircraft, which irreversibly shrank the world. Jet travel is something we now take for granted but it was not always so. For a decade and a half, jet travel was inextricably linked to glamour; a world that had moved at the sedate pace of the stately ocean liner was now soaring above the clouds at hundreds of miles an hour. Cultures and customs could be experienced, one after another, within a few hours and all sorts of places cropped up on the resort radar of the rich: Prince Alfonso von Hohenlohe’s Marbella Club, Karim Aga Khan’s Costa Smeralda and Colin Tennant’s Mustique .

Style continued to be concentrated in the hands of a very few women. Beautiful, glamorous and above all international, they were married to ship owners, auto-tycoons, oil magnates and broadcasting barons; the nobility of the old world and the industrial aristocracy of the new. Truman Capote called them his “swans” – Gloria Guinness, Babe Paley, Slim Keith, Marella Agnelli, Jacqueline de Ribes and Jackie Kennedy’s sister, Lee Radziwill. In time they were joined by a generation of younger women, among them Marisa Berenson and Diane von Furstenberg.

But the “swans” did not always play nicely. One anecdote concerns the Guinnesses and Paleys, who often summered together aboard the Guinness yacht, Calypso. One year Gloria told Babe not to bother to bring any smart clothes or jewellery as it would be a low-key summer. A few hours after the Paleys had come on board, Gloria emerged from her stateroom dressed up and dripping in gems. The following summer, Babe took no chances and emptied the safe. “Really, darling, why all the jewellery?” asked Gloria, in wide-eyed astonishment at the selection of gems Babe had brought. “We’re just on the boat.” During that cruise there were no formal dinners.

Jewellery of this time was all about daring combinations of motifs and stones. The old and slightly bourgeois distinctions between precious and semi-precious stones was swept away by a tide of creativity and an appetite for colour and effect. Long, polychrome sautoirs and bright pendant earrings became the thing; a sort of hippy deluxe look captured by Van Cleef’s Alhambra. One-off pieces revelled in wildness. One of my favourite pieces was by Cartier in 1974, featuring two large tusks set in yellow gold, attached to a collar with circular links of gold and what I can only refer to as a bib made of more tusks.

Until recently I’ve been in a minority in my enthusiasm for the adornment of this time. Now a younger generation of high jewellery customer is being enticed, viewing the jetset era as an exotic epoch, not an embarrassing style lapse. Definitive proof came when, taking the polyglot and polychrome influences of the period, Van Cleef & Arpels launched its Pierres de Caractère collection, a homage to Pierre Arpels who, like the women for whom he designed, was as much at home in the Place Vendôme as he was in India seeking out the stones to create some of the most inventive and creative jewellery of the 20th century.

Arpels conjured a world of tassels and textures, where wood met diamonds on equal terms. Coral cabochons mixed with brilliant cut diamonds in Siamese-inspired bangles; Indian paisley motifs were reworked into jewellery using the dazzling palette of ruby, sapphire and emerald; rings echoing the profiles of the temples of Indochina were worn on the sun-gilded fingers of Capote’s “swans”. The bestiaries of exotic mythologies were transformed into brooches or pendants set with emeralds, amethysts, chrysoprase… colour and character was everything.

I was invited to write a short essay for the catalogue accompanying the collection and I hope that in my non-academic but genuinely enthusiastic way, I encouraged people to look again at the jetset era, when the great jewellers of the world were able to get “with it” and had the customers who could wear it.

I will end with a wonderful line from Peter Evans’s Nemesis about that totemic jetset figure Aristotle Onassis. In the book, Maria Callas is quoted as saying that the Greek ship-owner’s “total understanding of women came out of a Van Cleef & Arpels catalogue”. I’d say that one has a far better chance of understanding women by studying a fine jewellery catalogue than an Argos brochure.


Swans: Legends of the Jet Society, by Nicholas Foulkes, is published by Assouline; assouline.com


The exclusive world of one of the twentieth century’s most glamorous and alluring women, as seen through her private homes and gardens. Nicknamed "The Swan" by Richard Avedon when he photographed her iconic portrait in 1953, Marella Agnelli is not only one of the great beauties of the last century, but also the most elegant and cultured of that exclusive club. Born the Neapolitan princess Marella Caracciolo di Castagneto, she became Marella Agnelli with her marriage to Gianni Agnelli, the Fiat industrialist. However, her innate style dates back to her New York internship with photographer Erwin Blumenfeld, and she was a Vogue contributor in the 1950s and ’60s as well as appearing in its pages. One of the most photographed women of the jet-set society, she was captured by Avedon as well as Irving Penn, Henry Clarke, Horst, and Robert Doisneau, among others. Agnelli collaborated with the best artists and designers of her day, with her many residences as their palette. From Italian interior design legend Renzo Mongiardino—who worked on her New York apartment alongside a young Peter Marino—to Gae Aulenti, the important Italian architect, who built her homes in Turin and Marrakech, Agnelli created a series of extraordinary houses and gardens, full of timeless elegance, invaluable art, and groundbreaking decorating ideas. With ten residences spread throughout Turin, Rome, Milan, New York, St. Moritz, and Marrakech, ranging from regally classic villas to ultramodern apartments, her impeccable taste shines through in these gorgeous interiors and gardens. One of the famous modern fairy tales of love, glamour, and heartbreak, Marella Agnelli has become an icon of our times.


Marella Agnelli: The Last Swan
Reviewed by:
Jeffrey Felner

“Marella Agnelli: The Last Swan is a collection of rare beauty that allows us to live within her world if only while enjoying this book.”

The first thing that comes to mind is “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous.” The life of Marella Agnelli is one of unimaginable wealth and privilege. Her homes cannot be fathomed by mere mortals. Her beauty is legendary.

Marella Agnelli The Last Swan is one of those rare books that chronicles a life within a family legacy. What you quickly find out is that this book is not so much about “the Last Swan” as it is about how she lived and what she loved and the seemingly endless resources it took to accomplish her various missions.

Upon starting the unbelievable journey of Marella Agnelli, we see her pictured within the confines of her many homes, wearing the finest of couture, and photographed by many of the greatest photographers of the 20th century. The photos and text may lead you to think that this is only about her life, which it is, but it is her life in relation to what she has built and orchestrated. Ms. Agnelli reigns over a kingdom of homes that rival any in the world. Simply stated, Marella makes Bunny Mellon look like she lived in a trailer park.

This book is an endless source of amazement as Ms. Agnelli has created “worlds” that are unknown to most of us. It is like having Central Park as your backyard or the Tuileries or the Boboli gardens as your own private spots for reflection or puttering around in the flower beds. Even those who are not botanically inclined will note that the incredible world of art she created outdoors is astounding.

As if the mind boggling gardens and grounds are not enough to keep you enthralled, there are the homes that this woman assembled in her life. They may not be to your taste but are jawdropping nonetheless. Imagine having to move so you can accommodate an art collection (think Renoir, Picasso, Balthus, Matisse) in one particular home. Imagine employing some of the greatest architects and interior designers of the 20th century to outfit all of these homes used to suit the globetrotting lifestyle of Mr. and Mrs. Agnelli. Mind boggling.

The takeaway is that if you have any curiosity about “how the other half lives” or more aptly put how one lives when one has endless finances coupled with huge esthetic powers and thirst, well then this is for you. Marella Agnelli: The Last Swan is a collection of rare beauty that allows us to live within her world if only while enjoying this book.

Lastly what must be addressed is the title or subtitle, The Last Swan. It is a bit of a misnomer as she is indeed not the last one. Some of her fellow “swans” still live—albeit not nearly as grandly as she. And for those truly unaware, the term “swan” was given to a small group of wildly socially acceptable women who at one time were dear friends to the late Truman Capote until he betrayed their confidences.

Jeffrey Felner is a dedicated participant and nimble historian in the businesses of fashion and style. Decades of experience allow him to pursue almost any topic relating to fashion and style with unique insight and unrivaled acumen.

By
Marella Caracciolo Chia
Marella Agnelli

Release Date:
October 14, 2014
Publisher/Imprint:
Rizzoli


An Enchanting Estate in Northern Italy

Style icon Marella Agnelli offers a rare look inside her family’s captivating 18th-century retreat

TEXT BY
MARELLA CARACCIOLO CHIA
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
OBERTO GILI
Posted August 31, 2014 · Magazine

One morning last spring, my aunt Marella Agnelli woke early at her home in the Northern Italian city of Turin and announced that she and I would spend the day at Villar Perosa, the Agnelli estate some 40 miles to the west. Eager to see its gardens, my father’s sister proposed that we have lunch beside the swimming pool there and return before dusk. We had been working solidly for the past week, putting the final touches on Marella Agnelli: The Last Swan, our book about her life as a style icon, photographer, textile designer, and inspired amateur decorator and gardener (to be published by Rizzoli in October), so the outing was a welcome break.



On the way she sat next to the driver, with her dogs—Chico, a Chihuahua, and a Shiba Inu called, simply enough, Shiba—on her lap, and reminisced about her first visit to Villar. It was September 1953, and the occasion was the wedding of her friend Maria Sole Agnelli to Count Ranieri Campello della Spina. That same evening my aunt (then Marella Caracciolo di Castagneto) and the bride’s eldest brother, Gianni, announced their engagement. Having recently returned to Italy after spending 18 months in New York City assisting fashion photographer Erwin Blumenfeld, Marella was bewitched by the pre–World War I atmosphere of the Agnellis’ house. "There was this sense of being in an enchanted time warp," she said, recalling how a housemaid in an apron that nearly reached the floor brought her breakfast in bed on a silver tray. "Villar was an old family home full of charm and nostalgia."



More than six decades later, that atmosphere of timelessness still hovers over this beloved retreat, where eight generations (and counting) of Agnellis have arrived with children and dogs in tow. Within view of the French Alps, the 18th-century former hunting lodge attributed to architect Filippo Juvarra is a graceful essay in Piedmontese Baroque. According to Gianni, who inherited it in the 1940s and died in 2003, his ancestor Giuseppe Agnelli, a Napoleonic officer, acquired the estate in the early 19th century and planted mulberry trees for raising silkworms. That investment gave rise to a fortune that, in 1899, helped launch Fabbrica Italiana di Automobili Torino, a.k.a. Fiat, Italy’s largest automotive company, where Gianni served as chairman for 30 years.
By the time my aunt and Gianni married, the classical decorator Stephane Boudin had already restored a portion of the house damaged by bombing in World War II, and he continued to assist the newlyweds. Marella and the puckish Parisian collaborated with purposeful sensitivity. Gianni’s parents and grandparents had died when he was young, leaving behind rooms furnished with memories, so his bride, the daughter of a Neapolitan prince and a mother from Peoria, Illinois, was determined to tread softly.


Boudin and Marella refreshed the piano nobile’s famous gallery, where exuberant stuccowork frames 18th-century Chinese export wallpaper and garlands the ceiling. They upholstered the villa’s antique Piedmontese chairs and settees—painted in pale, pretty colors that bring to mind macarons—in bold French velvets and Italian silks, and made-to-measure sofas added modern comfort. Alongside the main dining room, they set up a cozy library for after-dinner coffee. A few guest rooms became perfect expressions of ancien régime French taste, the decorator’s specialty. Boudin’s friend Russell Page, the British garden genius, helped Marella clarify the landscape, which she described as having been "a patchwork, each area created by a different generation."
Her increasing confidence as a gardener led her back inside the house, where she began dressing some spaces in a less formal, more familial mode. (Her son, Edoardo, was born in 1954 and her daughter, Margherita, a year later.) With wicker furniture cushioned in bright patterns and finely woven straw matting on the floor, the so-called garden room marks the moment when Marella left behind Boudin’s historicism in favor of her own simpler, contemporary taste. Unlined taffeta curtains with softly ruffled hems became part of her vocabulary, as did cheerful printed fabrics—she even designed an award-winning textile collection in the ’70s.
Then, 30 years ago, the frequent presence of eight lively grandchildren prompted Marella to transform a portion of the top floor into a private sanctuary. Following the advice of an old friend, decorator Federico Forquet, she fashioned four bedrooms. Among them is her intimate, low-ceilinged suite, lavished from walls to lampshades with a peony pattern. Another is Gianni’s barrel-vaulted chamber, where she curtained the imposing canopy bed with mismatched chintzes—one a dramatic Indian-style floral, the other dappled with white roses like those that bloom outside the arched window.
Anyone who has spent time at Villar joins in the Agnelli traditions. Morning hikes in the foothills of the Alps are typically followed by chess and Scrabble in the garden room. European newspapers are stacked in strategic spots, and books in Italian, French, and English are arranged in baskets on a large table, ready for perusal. There has also been, as long as I can remember, a card table set with a 3,000-piece jigsaw puzzle that takes family and friends an entire month to complete. In hot weather everyone decamps to the swimming pool and the adjacent wood pavilion—as spare as a Zen temple—by architect Gae Aulenti. Landscape designer Paolo Pejrone, a Page disciple, has banked this section with purple heather punctuated by ‘Iceberg’ roses and boxwood clipped into corkscrews and spheres. It is a destination cherished by all, from oldest to youngest, a success that is proof of my aunt’s attention to detail.

"Every time I create a home or a garden, I ask myself the same questions," Marella said as we sat beside the pool, our lunch finished and the sun setting. "Where will we gather together in the daytime and in the evening? How can I preserve a few quiet, secluded spots for reading or working? Which is the coolest area in the garden for meals in the shade? Architecture and landscapes influence our lives so much—I’m always fascinated by that."

Remembering the unique and unforgettable “The Grumpy Guide To Class” / BBC TWO / The Grumpy Guide To Class - Part Three

Remembering the unique and unforgettable “The Grumpy Guide To Class” / BBC TWO /The Grumpy Guide To Class - Part Two

Remembering the unique and unforgettable “The Grumpy Guide To Class” / BBC TWO /The Grumpy Guide To Class - Part One

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Remembering the unique and unforgettable
“The Grumpy Guide To Class” / BBC TWO

“Our mission here at Grumpy HQ is to lift the lid on some of the nonsense we have to put up with in life - and this week it is on the subject of class, apart from anything else it's all got so complicated... the toffs have run out of money, the middle class run the country, footballers are royalty, and everyone claims to be working class because it's the only class with street cred.

You don't know where you are anymore with class. Except we all know that napkins are very good and serviettes are bad, loos are acceptable and toilets are unacceptable, lounges are ghastly, but living rooms are spiffing, and saying pardon is an absolute no no. One way or another the class system is alive and well.”

The Gothic Revival Room / Introducing Strawberry Hill

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In May 1747 Horace Walpole took a lease on a small 17th-century house that was "little more than a cottage", with 5 acres (20,000 m2) of land from a Mrs. Chenevix. Horace was under familial and political pressure to establish a country seat, especially a family castle, which was a fashionable practice during the period. The following year he purchased the house which the original owner, a coachman, had named "Chopped Straw Hall". This was intolerable to Walpole, "his residence ought, he thought, to possess some distinctive appellation; of a very different character..." Finding an old lease that described his land as "Strawberry Hill Shot", Walpole adopted this new name for his soon to be "elegant villa".

In stages, Walpole rebuilt the house to his own specifications, giving it a Gothic style and expanding the property to 46 acres (190,000 m2) over the years. As Rosemary Hill notes, "Strawberry Hill was the first house without any existing medieval fabric to be [re]built from scratch in the Gothic style and the first to be based on actual historic examples, rather than an extrapolation of the Gothic vocabulary first developed by William Kent. As such it has a claim to be the starting point of the Gothic Revival."

Walpole and two friends, including the connoisseur and amateur architect, John Chute (1701–1776), and draughtsman and designer, Richard Bentley (1708–1782), called themselves a "Committee of Taste" or "Strawberry Committee"[which would modify the architecture of the building. Bentley left the group abruptly after an argument in 1761. Chute had an "eclectic but rather dry style" and was in charge of designing most of the exterior of the house and some of the interior. To Walpole, he was an "oracle of taste". Walpole often disagreed with Bentley on some of his wayward schemes, but admired his talent for illustration.

William Robinson of the Royal Office of Works contributed professional experience in overseeing construction. They looked at many examples of architecture in England and in other countries, adapting such works as the chapel at Westminster Abbey built by Henry VII for inspiration for the fan vaulting of the gallery, without any pretence at scholarship. Chimney-pieces were improvised from engravings of tombs at Westminster and Canterbury and Gothic stone fretwork blind details were reproduced by painted wallpapers, while in the Round Tower added in 1771, the chimney-piece was based on the tomb of Edward the Confessor "improved by Mr. Adam".

He incorporated many of the exterior details of cathedrals into the interior of the house. Externally there seemed to be two predominant styles 'mixed'; a style based on castles with turrets and battlements, and a style based on Gothic cathedrals with arched windows and stained glass.

The building evolved similarly to how a medieval cathedral often evolved over time, with no fixed plan from the beginning. Indeed, Michael Snodin argues, "the most striking external feature of Strawberry Hill was its irregular plan and broken picturesque silhouette". Walpole added new features over a thirty-year period, as he saw fit.

The first stage to make, in Walpole's words, a 'little Gothic castle' began in 1749 and was complete by 1753, a second stage began in 1760, and there were other modifications such as work on the great north bedchamber in 1772, and the "Beauclerk Tower" of the third phase of alterations, completed to designs of a professional architect, James Essex, in 1776. The total cost came to about £20,720.

Walpole's 'little Gothic castle' has significance as one of the most influential individual buildings of such Rococo "Gothick" architecture which prefigured the later developments of the nineteenth century Gothic revival, and for increasing the use of Gothic designs for houses. This style has variously been described as Georgian Gothic, Strawberry Hill Gothic, or Georgian Rococo.

Walpole's eccentric and unique style on the inside rooms of Strawberry Hill complemented the Gothic exterior. The house is described by Walpole as "the scene that inspired, the author of The Castle of Otranto", though Michael Snodin has observed: "it is an interesting comment on 18th-century sensibility that the melancholy interiors of The Castle of Otranto were suggested by the light, elegant, even whimsical rooms at Strawberry Hill".


 The Library


The interiors of Walpole's "little play-thing house" were intended to be "settings of Gothic 'gloomth' for Walpole's collection". His collection of curious, singular, antiquarian objects was well publicized; Walpole himself published two editions of A Description of the Villa of Mr. Horace Walpole at Strawberry Hill to make the "world aware of the extent of his collection".

Speaking on Walpole's collection, Clive Wainwright states that Walpole's collection "constituted an essential part of the interiors of his house". The character of the rooms at Strawberry Hill was "created and dictated" by Walpole's taste for antiquarianism. Though even without the collection present, the house "retains a fairy-tale quality".

Horace Walpole's Strawberry Hill Collection of several thousand items can still be viewed today. The Lewis Walpole Library of Yale University now has a database which "encompasses the entire range of art and artifacts from Walpole's collections, including all items whose location is currently known and those as yet untraced but known through a variety of historical records".






The collections

For Walpole, physical objects were doorways to the past. Most of the things at Strawberry Hill told at least one story. Walpole put great emphasis on the provenance of the objects he assembled and delighted in being able to add his name to the list of famous collectors reaching back to the 16th century.

Walpole's collection of ceramics was the largest and most varied in England. It ranged from ancient Greek pots and masterpieces of Renaissance maiolica and earthenware through to modern porcelain.

Walpole believed that his collection of enamels and miniatures was the 'largest and finest in any country'. By his death in 1797, he owned around 130 miniatures, painted in watercolour on vellum or ivory, and nearly 40 enamels. Walpole's account of miniatures and enamels in the Anecdotes of Painting established their reputation as a serious art form.

From the 1770s, Strawberry Hill became famous for 'Works of Genius … by Persons of Rank and Gentlemen not artists'. Most of these amateur artists were women, chief among them the painter and designer Lady Diana Beauclerk and the sculptor Anne Damer.

Horace Walpole's Anecdotes of Painting in England, published by the Strawberry Hill Press between 1762 and 1780, was the first history of English art. Walpole modelled it on Giorgio Vasari's Lives of the Artists, and it still forms the basis of English art history. In its complete form the Anecdotes included sections on sculptors, architects and engravers, and an 'Essay on Modern Gardening'.

This content was originally written in association with the exhibition 'Horace Walpole & Strawberry Hill', on display at the V&A South Kensington between 6 March and 4 July 2010.

The exhibition was organised by the V&A, The Lewis Walpole Library, Yale University, and the Yale Center for British Art.

To explore more of Walpole's original collection, visit the Lewis Walpole Library database of objects in their collection.


Following extensive restoration by the Strawberry Hill Trust, the house re-opened in 2010. To find out more, visit the Friends of Strawberry Hill website.


Strawberry Hill, Horace Walpole's fantasy castle, to open its doors again

Private rooms in the pile that inspired the first Gothic novel in 1764, and a whole style of architecture, have always been off-limits to the public – until now
Strawberry Hill will reopen to the public on 1 March.

Maev Kennedy
Wednesday 25 February 2015 17.10 GMT

The collector, scholar and legendary gossip Horace Walpole woke one morning in June 1764 in the extraordinary fantasy home he had created near the Thames, west of London.

Strawberry Hill had – and now has again after years of careful restoration – roof, battlement and mantelpieces bristling with spires and gargoyles, stairs and bookcases copied from the tombs of medieval kings. Its passageways and library ceilings were embellished with imagined ancestors, and windows glitter with stained glass collected by the crate load from across Europe.

On that summer morning he had experienced a dream so vivid that he sat down in his study and began to write a book which changed the course of literary history. The Castle of Otranto is widely regarded as the first Gothic novel, and, with its knights, villains, wronged maidens, haunted corridors and things that go bump in the night, is the spiritual godfather of Frankenstein and Dracula, the creaking floorboards of Edgar Allan Poe and the shifting stairs and walking portraits of Harry Potter’s Hogwarts. When the house reopens to the public on 1 March, visitors will be invited to sit down in Walpole’s study and read the book for themselves.

Many of the newly restored rooms have never been open to the public, including his bedroom and the room in which he died. Although Walpole entertained lavishly and also admitted paying visitors – sometimes retreating to a cottage across the road when overwhelmed by the enthusiasm of his public, and once evicted from his own breakfast room when a particularly grand visitor called unexpectedly – his own private rooms were always off-limits. They have now been dazzlingly restored through detective work involving scraps of original paint colour and shreds of wallpaper found on the edges of doors and fireplaces or hidden in the depths of cupboards.

Walpole himself prophesied that “my buildings, like my writings are of paper, and will blow away ten years after I am dead”, but, more than two centuries later, his house has survived – though by 2004 it appeared on the World Monument Fund’s list of the most important and endangered historic buildings in the world. It is now now leased and run by the Strawberry Hill trust and has been restored over the past decade, room by painstaking room, using grants from the Heritage Lottery Fund, charities and public donations.

His house was a spectacular conjuring trick, as entertaining as its owner. It was a miniature medieval castle wrapped around a modest little country house, with papier-mache, wood and plaster moulded and painted to look like ancient carved stone.

Despite its many eccentricities, including a royal bedchamber where nobody ever slept, and hallways that were deliberately kept dark to create an atmosphere of medieval “gloomth” (Walpole’s word), the house has proved as influential as his book, setting the trend for Gothic revival architecture and giving the name Strawberry Hill still used for the style.

The décor of his own apartments cost a fortune, as has their recreation. Visitors will find his own rooms covered in brilliantly coloured wallpaper as startlingly heavily patterned as any Victorian parlour. Recreating them meant having the paper hand-made in northern Ireland, hand-dyed in the United States, and hand-flocked in England. In the grandest bedroom, a team of needleworkers is hand-quilting bed covers for the recreation of the grandest bed, inherited by Walpole from the father he worshipped – Sir Robert Walpole, Britain’s first prime minister whose town house was No 10 Downing Street.

Michael Snodin, chair of the trust, steps out on the landing directly outside Walpole’s bedroom door. Its features include a recreated medieval painting of jousting knights, and a wall decoration of a pyramid of arms and armour including a modern replica of a Scottish broadsword, and a genuine antique Indian shield covered with rhinoceros hide. In Walpole’s day there was also a full suit of heavily decorated and gilded armour, which he believed had once belonged to a French king, standing in an arched niche – the first recorded use of that cliché of every haunted house movie.

“Walpole said his dream was of a mailed hand on the uppermost bannister of a great staircase,” Snodin says, “and this is undoubtedly the scene of his dream. Walpole created this house, and this house created that book.”


Walpole invited the public to share the house he described as his “little plaything … the prettiest bauble you ever saw”, but the rules were strict: a surviving admission ticket warns it “will admit four persons and no more … NB The House and Garden are never shown in an Evening; and Persons are desired not to bring Children with them.”


Strawberry Hill House: blast from a Gothic past
Strawberry Hill, Horace Walpole's wondrous house, has reopened. Nigel Richardson explores it.

By Nigel Richardson8:00AM BST 09 Oct 2010

Like a heroine in a Gothic novel, a piece of architectural exotica in south-west London is in the process of awakening from a long slumber.
Strawberry Hill House in Twickenham is the glorious figment of Horace Walpole's imagination made manifest, and as a £9 million restoration reaches the end of its first phase it is from this month once again greeting visitors, as it did when Walpole lived here in the second half of the 18th century.
Last month, workmen found a collection of visiting cards and letters that had slipped down the back of a chimney piece in the house. They include a note from a Mr Roffey of Kingston who "begs the favour to know if Himself and 3 more may be permitted to see Mr Warpoles [sic] House on next Wednesday at 12 o Clock…" He and many others, from royalty to clerks, came to marvel at a building that Michael Snodin, the man who has kissed Strawberry Hill back to life, describes as pioneering.
"It was the first building to be Gothic inside and outside, and to be a real house," says Snodin, who is chairman of the Strawberry Hill Trust, the body that is overseeing the restoration. "So it launched the Gothic Revival and led to buildings such as the Houses of Parliament."
Its other cultural significance is that it was here, inspired by his surroundings, that Walpole wrote what is arguably the first Gothic novel, The Castle of Otranto, which became the progenitor of Mary Shelley's Frankenstein, the works of Bram Stoker and so on.

From the moment he moved here in 1747, Horace Walpole – politician, writer, collector and visionary – loved the house and its locale. "Pope's ghost is just now skimming under my window in a most poetical moonlight," he wrote, in reference to the poet Alexander Pope, who had died three years before, having lived just down the road on the west bank of the Thames.
Twickenham in the 18th century was a rural retreat for London's wealthy, fashionable and artistic types. Walpole spent the winters in Arlington Street, off Piccadilly, and in the summer decamped to Strawberry Hill where, over 45 years, he created a glorious Gothic fantasy both inside and out, calling it whimsically "the castle I am building of my ancestors".
From the structure of the original, conventional country house grew pinnacles, finials, "Tudor" chimneys and "medieval" battlements, while windows sprouted Gothic arches. The exterior was painted a dazzling white, in keeping with the other grand houses of the Thames Valley such as Marble Hill House, so that it looked like a piece of confectionery.
One of the triumphs of the restoration is that after enduring years clad in a drab "cementitious render" Strawberry Hill is once again the slice of wedding cake that Walpole dreamed into being.
Inside, Snodin explains, Walpole wished to create the sense of "a picturesque journey from dark to light", from the "gloomth" of the castle-like entrance hall and stairway, down dark corridors, to the dazzling brightness of the Gallery, "his great showroom", with its ceiling of gold and white plaster and papier mâché, and walls of red damask.
Aided by his friend Robert Adam, Walpole used details from Gothic monuments and buildings – a rose window from old St Paul's, the tomb of Edward the Confessor – as inspiration for chimneypieces and ceilings, and animated the house with his own vast collection of books, paintings, furniture, artworks and objects.
The one aspect of Strawberry Hill that is beyond the scope of the restoration is this collection. Following his death in 1797, Walpole's belongings were sold at auction in 1842 and dispersed to the four winds, though the trust is trying to locate as many as possible with a view to borrowing them or even buying them back.
Walpole left Strawberry Hill to the Waldegrave family and it was sold in 1923 to St Mary's University College, a Catholic teacher training college, from which the Strawberry Hill Trust now leases the house. By the turn of the 21st century it had fallen into a state of extreme disrepair and was listed by the World Monuments Fund as one of the world's 100 most endangered heritage sites.
Once the funds had been raised to restore it – the chief benefactor being the Heritage Lottery Fund, which gave £4.9 million – recreating the original proved remarkably easy. Not only was much of the 18th-century fabric still in place, but no house had been as extensively documented as was Strawberry Hill in Walpole's meticulous, room-by-room description of 1784.
The result is that his extraordinary vision has been brought back to life (though some rooms and the grounds await completion next year). Visiting it is like walking through one man's imagination, which is what Snodin means when he describes it as a "personality house".
The reactions of Mr Roffey of Kingston, when he visited Strawberry Hill some 250 years ago, are not recorded. But you can be sure he was no less dumbstruck than you will be.
Strawberry Hill basics
Strawberry Hill House (020 8744 3124, www.strawberryhillhouse.org.uk) is at 268 Waldegrave Road, London TW1 4ST, a five-minute walk from Strawberry Hill railway station (direct trains from Waterloo). The house opened last Saturday and will remain open until December 22, Saturday-Wednesday, noon until 4.30pm. Admission £8 (concessions £7), which includes audio-guide and booklet. There will be timed entries of 20 people at a time and booking is strongly advised. It reopens on April 2 2011.

Laurence Fellows ENCORE / Sunday Images

British Tweed Reinvented from Vintage to Today

BLADEN SUPERSAX / GREAT BRITISH ATTIRE SINCE 1917

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BLADEN
GREAT BRITISH ATTIRE SINCE 1917

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A QUESTION OF CLASS : English Literary Life 1918 - 1945

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Question of Class traces the intellectual, social and political journey of the Brideshead Revisited generation of the 1920's and the more politically engaged generation of the 1930's, from Eton, Oxford and Cambridge to Mayfair, Chelsea, Bloomsbury and abroad, and explores the influence their common origins and education had on their lives and work.
The film features interviews with Christopher Isherwood, Stephen Spender, Anthony Powell, Alan Pryce-Jones, Harold Acton, Peter Quennell, James Lees-Milne, John Lehmann, A.L. Rowse, Diana Mosley, David Herbert and Nigel Nicolson.

James Lees-Milne 'the man who saved England'.

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LIFE

1936-1939: The early weeks of 1936 marked a low point of JLM's life. He was unemployed, penniless and socially in disgrace after jilting his fiancée. But that spring he landed the job of his dreams as secretary to the newly-formed Country Houses Committee of the National Trust - a job he owed to Harold Nicolson, whose wife Vita's former lover was the sister of the N.T's Secretary Matheson. Formerly devoted to preserving beauty spots, the N.T. had only recently adopted the conservation of country houses as one of its purposes. JLM's task was to help compile a list of the houses most worthy of preservation, approach the owners, and visit such of them as were potentially interested in arrangements with the N.T. He threw himself into these activities with almost religious fervour; and although few properties came to the N.T. at this period, he acquired knowledge and skills which would later prove invaluable. He was unconcerned about his minuscule salary, or the fact that his restricted budget sometimes obliged him to visit such great houses as Longleat by bicycle. His conservation work led to friendships with Robert Byron and Michael, Earl of Rosse (brother of JLM's school love Desmond Parsons who had recently died), with whom he was involved in founding the Georgian Group in 1937.

His work boosted his self-confidence and he began to lead the astonishingly varied social life later depicted in his diaries, which included Eton friends, the Harold Nicolson circle, aesthetes, bohemians, country house owners, the world of the great London hostesses, and old Catholic families such as the Herberts and FitzAlans. He continued writing and produced a novel, a book of short stories and much poetry, none of it considered publishable. There were at least two women to whom he considered proposing at this period (one the sister of Laura Herbert who married Evelyn Waugh); but his greatest romantic interest was Rick Stewart-Jones, a fellow conservationist working for the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings with whom he fell in love at first sight on 1 March 1938. They embarked on a passionate affair - which was still going strong in the summer of 1939, when JLM began another, less intense affair with Stuart Preston, a young American protégé of Harold Nicolson.


1939-1945: The outbreak of war in 1939 led to a return of JLM's depression. His job at the N.T. ended, and he took a grim view of the future. During the Phoney War he trained as an ambulance driver, and organised an exhibition in support of the Finns. In the spring of 1940, when he was about to be called up, Michael Rosse arranged for him to be commissioned in the Irish Guards. An uproarious account of his six months as a reluctant warrior is given in Another Self. Soon after being caught in a bomb blast in London in October 1940, JLM fell ill. For almost a year he was confined to military hospitals, his condition eventually being diagnosed as Jacksonian epilepsy.

As JLM returned to health in the autumn of 1941, the N.T. was returning to life, as desperate country house owners began to look to it for the future salvation of their currently requisitioned properties. Through the influence of his old boss, the remarkable Oliver, Viscount Esher, JLM was discharged from the army and allowed to resume his old job, now based at West Wycombe Park where he went to live. There he endured the haughty behaviour of the châtelaine, Helen Dashwood, but was comforted by the presence of two old friends, the novelist Nancy Mitford and music critic Eddy Sackville-West. He also established a lifelong close friendship with the artist Eardley Knollys, a wartime recruit to the N.T. staff who would be his constant companion on N.T. expeditions for the next fifteen years.



From 1942 to 1945, JLM's life is documented in detail in his famous wartime diaries. These describe his visits round the country to beleaguered houseowners (many of them eccentric); his involvement in the wartime politics of the N.T.; the pursuit of intimate friendships with men such as James Pope-Hennessy and Stuart Preston, and women such as the mysterious 'Q'; the progress of the war, which closely touched him through the bombing of London and the deaths in action of such friends as Tom Mitford and Basil Ava; and the frantic social life of London during the Blitz - both at the tables of great hostesses and more intimate gatherings.
1945-51: His diaries again give a detailed picture of JLM's life from 1946 to 1949. These were grim years for the country but important ones in the history of the N.T., for which JLM now did his greatest work, organising the acquisition and opening of many famous houses. He also wrote the first of his architectural books - The Age of Adam (1947) and Tudor Renaissance (1951). These are now recognised as pioneering works, among the first to bring the subject to a wide audience; while not pretending to academic scholarship, he made it his policy to write about no building until he had seen it.

In 1949 he fell in love with the beautiful Alvilde Chaplin (née Bridges), whom he had met during the war with her patroness Princess 'Winnie' de Polignac. One year his junior, she was a gifted but astringent character, a lesbian whose friends included many homosexual men; her marriage (1933) to the handsome but philandering Anthony (later 3rd Viscount) Chaplin had only briefly been consummated, resulting in a daughter, Clarissa. The diaries describe the progress of the affair, at one moment of which JLM, Alvilde, Chaplin and Chaplin's young mistress (and future wife) Rosemary Lyttelton were all living together. Though infatuated with her, JLM had some doubts about marriage; but he proposed at the end of the year, Chaplin being happy to be divorced in order to wed Rosemary. Before committing himself, JLM had made enquiries in Catholic circles as to whether Alvilde was likely to receive a papal annulment of her marriage, so he could marry her in the eyes of the Church of which he remained a practising member; he received positive assurances, but in the end no annulment was granted. This was a blow to his faith; but they nevertheless married at a London registry office in November 1951, Harold and Vita acting as witnesses.

1951-58: JLM's marriage brought about a change in his pattern of life. He had never fully recovered from his wartime illness, and by the late 1940s was suffering from overwork and exhaustion. At the end of 1950 he relinquished his post as the N.T's Historic Buildings Secretary to take up a half-time position as its Architectural Adviser. Alvilde was living as a tax exile in France; in 1950 she bought a house at Roquebrune, in the mountains between Monaco and Menton. For the rest of the decade, they wintered together at Roquebrune; JLM spent six months of each year in England working for the N.T., for three of which she would join him; and they travelled on the continent, he doing research for his architectural books.

JLM took his marriage seriously, and derived many advantages from having a rich and accomplished wife who shared his cultural and social interests. She made the little house at Roquebrune delightful, cosetted him, entertained superbly and created an exquisite garden. His more leisured life enabled him to write two excellent books, The Age of Inigo Jones (1953) and Roman Mornings (1956), which won him critical acclaim.

Yet he was not happy. As he had feared, she could be moody and possessive. He got bored with life in the South of France and the society there. Although they had enjoyed a physical relationship before marriage, Alvilde was afterwards less willing to satisfy him in this regard; this caused frustration, as he struggled to put his homosexual life behind him. Then, in 1955, she embarked on a tempestuous lesbian affair with Vita Sackville-West, with whom she shared a passion for gardening. This was conducted with discretion, and JLM affected not to notice it; but the situation was widely known among their circle and did not lessen his unhappiness.

1958-67: JLM turned fifty in August 1958. The next decade was to be the most troubled of his life. He became disillusioned with the two institutions he loved most, the Roman Catholic Church and the National Trust, eventually drifting away from the first and resigning from the staff of the second; and his passionate love affair with a younger man led to difficulties in his marriage and much trauma. In 1961, Alvilde gave up her French domicile and bought a house in the Cotswolds, Alderley Grange, where she created a famous garden. JLM loved this house - their 'Sissinghurst' - and it was undoubtedly a factor in keeping them together during several rocky years of marriage.

Despite the trauma, JLM wrote two of his best books during these years - Earls of Creation (1962) and St Peter's (1967). Although the latter, lavishly illustrated and written with papal approval, did not achieve the commercial success predicted for it, the deaths of his mother and his eccentric Aunt Dorothy (the pipe-smoking lesbian widow of his father's childless brother) brought him some capital for the first time, lessening his financial dependence on his wife.

1968-75: By the late 1960s, JLM and Alvilde had achieved a modus vivendi, living as a devoted couple at Alderley, yet leading separate lives. In his sixties, he finally began to achieve recognition as a man of letters outside the field of architecture. His autobiographical novel Another Self appeared in 1970, and was an instant success; two further novels followed, giving fascinating insights into his imagination. Ancestral Voices, the first volume of his wartime diaries, was published in 1975 and proved a succès de scandale. Meanwhile, in 1971, he had resumed a regular diary for the first time since the 1940s. This portrays him as the contented literary squire he essentially now was.

During the early 1970s, JLM and his wife began to take a gloomy view of the state of the country and their personal finances, and decided that the effort of running Alderley was too great for them. She sold the property at the end of 1974, and they moved to a maisonette in Lansdown Cresent, Bath. Its great feature was the library of William Beckford, which JLM lovingly restored. Soon after the move, he was invited to write a short book on Beckford - his first biography. Despite the boon of the library, the Bath property proved too cramped for them, and the garden too small for the exercise of her horticultural talents. When a late 17th century house on the Badminton estate, with an attached acre, became vacant, they were able to secure the tenancy thanks to their friendship with the Duke of Beaufort's heir David Somerset and his wife Caroline. They moved there at the end of 1975, Jim retaining the Bath library for his work.

1976-91: Despite the eccentric behaviour of their landlord, the hunting-obsessed 10th Duke of Beaufort ('Master'), which provided priceless material for JLM's journal, the Lees-Milnes led a contented life at their Badminton residence, Essex House (dubbed 'Bisex House' by a waspish observer). During this period, JLM wrote his three major biographies - of Harold Nicolson (1886-1968), Reginald, Viscount Esher (1852-1930), and the Bachelor Duke of Devonshire (1790-1858). The last of these was undertaken at the request of his lifelong friend 'Debo', Duchess of Devonshire, youngest of the Mitford sisters, whom he often visited at Chatsworth. In 1979, aged seventy, he embarked on a platonic friendship with a young man of twenty-five; this briefly disturbed his marriage, but he and Alvilde drew close to each other as she nursed him through serious illnesses in 1984 and 1988.

1991-97: JLM struggled bravely through his eighties, despite declining faculties and the spectre of cancer. His National Trust memoirs People & Places, written at eighty-three, is one of his most eloquent works. His diary became increasingly elegiac, as in old age he reflected upon the modern world and its ways. Alvilde's health broke down in 1992, and he devoted the next two years to looking after her. Her death in March 1994 at first left him disconsolate; yet he soon began to enjoy life again, experiencing a freedom he had not known since his marriage, and revelling in his status as a grand old man of letters and conservation. He remained lucid and active almost to the end, dying in his ninetieth year on 28 December 1997.





THE DIARIES

JLM was both a prolific and versatile author. Altogether he brought out thirty-four volumes during his lifetime, including works of architectural and general history, biographies, novels and memoirs.

It is however mainly for his diaries that he is now remembered, which have been described as 'one of the treasures of contemporary English literature'. Many have hailed him as the greatest English diarist of the twentieth century, and compared him to Samuel Pepys. As well as providing a wealth of fascinating detail about his work, friendships and attachments, JLM's diaries are remarkable for the sharpness with which he observes the world around him, the candour with which he writes about himself and others, his alternation of tone between the comic and the poignant, and his ability to capture the essence of a scene in a few words.

There were in fact two distinct periods during which he kept a regular diary, separated by more than two decades - 1942-49 and 1971-97. (The reason that he desisted in between - except for a few short periods - is that he did not wish to record the details of an often unhappy marriage.)

JLM edited his 1940s diaries in four volumes appearing between 1975 and 1985, each covering two years, to which he gave titles deriving from Coleridge's poem 'Kubla Khan' - Ancestral Voices, 1942-3 (1975); Prophesying Peace, 1944-5 (1977); Caves of Ice, 1946-7 (1983); and Midway on the Waves, 1948-9 (1985). The first three were published by Chatto & Windus, the fourth by Faber & Faber which proceeded to produce paperback editions of all four. First editions of these volumes now fetch high prices on the second-hand market.

During his last years JLM began editing his later diaries, all published by John Murray. They too were given 'Kubla Khan' titles - A Mingled Measure, 1953-72 (1994); Ancient as the Hills, 1973-4; Through Wood and Dale, 1975-8 (which JLM finished editing just before his death, being published posthumously in 1998).

After JLM's death, his literary executor Michael Bloch completed the editing of his diaries, producing five further volumes - Deep Romantic Chasm, 1979-81 (2000); Holy Dread, 1982-4 (2001); Beneath a Waning Moon, 1983-5 (2003); Ceaseless Turmoil, 1988-92 (2004); and The Milk of Paradise, 1993-97 (2005).

During 2006-2008 John Murray published a new, three-volume edition of the diaries, abridged by Michael Bloch. Since 2003, however, Michael Russell has been reprinting the twelve original volumes in his Clocktower Paperback series, reaching the ninth volume, Holy Dread, in 2008.

All of JLM's diaries - both in the twelve- and three-volume editions - may be purchased from the BOOKSHOP section of this website.


FROM SUSAN HILL'S ARTICLE ON DIARISTS IN THE GUARDIAN
(10 January 2004)

‘If you want to experience the merry-go-round of upper-middle-class life in the 20th century you can do no better than follow Lees-Milne, as sharp-tongued, melancholy, jaundiced and reactionary a commentator as ever lived. He does nothing to ingratiate himself with us, has no desire to be liked any more than he would like us. He hates modern life and times, laments the decline of almost everything, is a ferocious snob. But like all the best diarists and almost in spite of himself, he has the keenest of interests in life, a refusal to be only an old fuddy-duddy; he will try almost anything, from a new film or fashionable play to a young lover...’


James Lees-Milne: The Life by Michael Bloch
James Lees-Milne, diarist and saviour of our national treasures, is well served in this life, says Oliver Marre
Sunday 20 September 2009 00.07 BST

James Lees-Milne was visited on his deathbed by Prince Charles and found it "rather a strain". He had fallen ill while paying his annual visit to the Paris home of Oswald Mosley's widow, Diana, with her sister, the Duchess of Devonshire. He travelled there by Eurostar. This is all reported in the final paragraph of Michael Bloch's affectionate and respectful biography of Lees-Milne, a man employed for many years by the National Trust, but whose lasting reputation is likely to be founded on the seven volumes of waspish and elegant diaries published in his lifetime and five more brought out posthumously under the eye of Bloch, who is his literary executor as well as biographer.

These diaries present a problem for Bloch and one which, for all this book's successes, he never escapes. They are so readable and gossipy that the task of his biographer is a fairly thankless one. What is more, Bloch has been responsible for some excellent editing of the diaries, so their footnotes and introductions provide satisfactory background information on the people mentioned and how they came into contact with Lees-Milne.

None the less, as this biography's last paragraph suggests, Lees-Milne's story is an intriguing one. Who was this man, an arch-snob with connections with the Mosleys? Or an amusing iconoclast, refreshingly unimpressed by the ministrations of the heir to the throne? His life spanned the century from an Edwardian childhood to the era of trains under the Channel and the ascent of New Labour (he died in 1997), during which he managed to be an academic failure and an Oxford undergraduate; desperate for money and comfortably rich; sometimes homosexual and married to an occasional lesbian. He seems the quintessential Englishman of his class and generation and yet spent eight years living in the south of France.

Bloch addresses these contradictions and does not shy away from engaging with the less savoury episodes in the life of his old friend. "It appears," he writes at the end of chapter one, "that Jim did have sexual intercourse with his cousin..." Some weeks later, she was found to be pregnant and the child was stillborn. "He felt that he had forfeited all further right to father a child." Bloch's recounting of this story is definitely partisan: cousin Joanie "was evidently fairly free with her sexual favours," he tells us, so "there can be no certainty that the child was Jim's".

It isn't all like this. Bloch is careful to treat Lees-Milne's partial autobiography, Another Self, with scepticism. Is it true, for example, that his interest in saving the great country houses of Britain, an enterprise which, through the National Trust, took up much of his working life, dated from a rowdy student house party, when some moronic toffs used a rifle to take pot shots at the genitalia of priceless statues and used a riding crop to whip the paint off portraits by Kneller and Reynolds? It is a great story, which serves to portray Lees-Milne as an outsider in a winning way. But Bloch asks whether he was there at all, pointing out that eyewitnesses don't recall seeing him.

Relations between Bloch and Lees-Milne's wife, Alvilde, were not always warm and it is to the biographer's credit that she comes out of this book as a tolerant and sensible character. But James Lees-Milne, for all the grand friends, does not come across as a very happy man. He might have saved for the nation, by persuading their owners to hand them over to the National Trust, some architectural gems and he might have produced some well-written books, but he felt himself a failure, not least morally. His biographer, meanwhile, does not stop far short of hero worship. While this makes his mastery of the facts of Lees-Milne's life impressive, you end up feeling that you are being asked for sympathy rather than empathy and that's quite a lot for a biographer to seek.



James Lees-Milne: The Life by Michael Bloch: review
Michael Bloch's life of James Lees-Milne shows a man as fascinated by people as by his beloved buildings, says Selina Hastings

By Selina Hastings5:55AM BST 27 Sep 2009

James Lees-Milne (1908-1997) is known, first, as one of the great diarists of the 20th century and, second, for his heroic efforts in preserving dilapidated country houses for the National Trust. Once memorably described as 'the man who saved England’, Lees-Milne never received much recognition from the Trust itself and his battles over its increasingly bureaucratic approach provide one of the most entertaining themes in his journals.

Over the years, 12 volumes of diaries were published, as well as a memoir, Another Self, and it is greatly to Michael Bloch’s credit that his biography reveals so many new facets of the man, as well as of his times and his setting. Bloch knew his subject well: when Lees-Milne was in his seventies he fell deeply and platonically in love with the author, then 25 and a graduate at Cambridge, and for nearly 20 years the two maintained a close friendship. The writer’s affection and understanding has resulted in a remarkable study, a striking three-dimensional portrait of a subversive, sensitive and endearing man. Naturally, Bloch has made good use of the diaries, but he has gone far beyond them, investigating the long periods when nothing was written, as well as uncovering an intriguing and recurrent thread of fantasy.
Lees-Milne was brought up in Worcestershire, his parents, minor gentry uninterested in the arts, regarding their gentle, aesthete son as a sissy. After an undistinguished career at Oxford, and a miserable period as personal secretary to Sir Roderick Jones, chairman of Reuters, Lees-Milne in 1936 came almost by chance to his job at the Trust. In Another Self he famously tells the story of witnessing the drunken owner of a magnificent Jacobean house in Oxfordshire amusing himself and his dinner guests by lashing at the Reynoldses and Knellers with his riding crop and shooting at the statues on the terrace. Appalled, Lees-Milne described the occasion as a turning point in his life, the moment when he knew he wanted to 'devote my energies and abilities to preserving the country houses of England’. Interestingly, although the incident happened and the sentiment is authentic, Bloch reveals that Lees-Milne himself was not present.
Further fantasy is identified in other areas. Lees-Milne was a romantic; he was also physically passionate, and his love affairs with both men and women were numerous. Basically homosexual, he began his love-life at Eton with two outstanding charmers, Tom Mitford and Desmond Parsons. Many more affairs followed, including several with much older men, chief among them his patron, Harold Nicolson who, with his wife, Vita Sackville-West, remained dear friends for life.
But interspersed with these are some intriguing encounters, such as with the ravishing Theo, whom Lees-Milne found sitting next to him in the amphitheatre at Covent Garden and who, though never seen again, possessed his imagination for 40 years. 'A poignant tale’, Bloch comments, but almost certainly untrue.
At the age of 40 Lees-Milne met and subsequently married Alvilde Chaplin, a handsome termagant whose jealous nature came near to wrecking his life. Alvilde was herself lesbian, the girlfriend of Princess Winnie de Polignac and later of Sackville-West. She knew of her husband’s inclinations and yet, possessive and insecure, she found his extramural activities intolerable, steaming open his letters, making furious scenes and, more dangerously, ranting about his affairs to his colleagues at the Trust.
Admirably, Bloch, himself for a time the object of Alvilde’s hostility, deals with her difficult temperament with sympathy, despite a discernible relish in his description of some of her more electrifying rages. The eventual harmony that was established in the marriage towards the end is most touchingly described.
James Lees-Milne: The Life is an exceptional biography: lively, perceptive and well-written. As well as of his protagonist, Bloch paints a vivid portrait of his world, the pre-war country childhood, Eton and Oxford, the country houses and their owners, London during the war, the travels abroad. There is Lees-Milne’s own writing, his love for paintings and architecture, his life with Alvilde in France and in Gloucestershire, the many friendships and, of course, the National Trust, slowly transmuting from eccentric and amateur to a slick 'museumisation’. The diaries will never be superseded, but this book is their essential companion.
James Lees-Milne: The Life
By Michael Bloch
JOHN MURRAY


The National Trust bed-hopper who persuaded aristocrats he slept with - women AND men - to leave their homes to the nation
By MATTHEW WILSON
UPDATED: 13:00 GMT, 14 September 2009

Even back in the Thirties, anyone watching the scene might have guessed they were witnessing the end of an era.
Shortly after lunch, the grand doors of Longleat, one of Wiltshire's most celebrated stately homes, were thrown open and two rows of liveried footmen hurried out to line up on either side of the steps leading down to the drive.
After a short pause, two figures duly emerged, blinking in the sudden sunlight.
One, resplendent in his frock coat, was the old Lord Bath, one of the most courteous aristocrats of his day. The other was a handsome young man, politely pouring praise on the glories of the house and quietly pretending that this was the sort of thing that happened every day.

There would have been an awkward moment as Lord Bath waited for his guest's transport to be brought round to the front. But it already had; the rusty bicycle being held gingerly by a footman at the bottom of the steps was his guest's transport. The man from the National Trust was leaving in the same way he'd arrived - on his bike.
What James Lees-Milne, the young man on that bicycle, would always remember, however, was pausing after he had pedalled some considerable way down the long straight drive and turning for a last admiring look at the house.
There, still, was Lord Bath, flanked by his two rows of footmen, waiting at the top of the steps, impeccably observing the old-world tradition of remaining in view until one's guest was out of sight.
It didn't matter that the meeting had been unsuccessful, that Lord Bath would not be donating Longleat to the Trust.

That was the pattern of things, as Lees-Milne soon realised; at some grand houses he never made it past the front door, at others he was welcomed with open arms by families desperate to relieve themselves of the financial burden.
Lees-Milne - Jim to his friends and destined to become one of the most celebrated diarists of his day - had embarked on the work that more than half a century later would cause him to be described as 'the man who saved England'.
What the 28-year- old Oxford graduate was engaged in was saving England's stately homes - and one or two in Wales, too.
It was his pioneering work to persuade their aristocratic owners to donate their houses to the National Trust that helped turn it into the hugely successful institution that it is today, with more than 300 houses and 3.5 million members.
But back in the Thirties the Trust - already 40 years old but with barely 5,000 members - owned almost no grand country houses at all. That situation would slowly change, as Jim criss-crossed the country, searching for houses of sufficient architectural merit to justify the Trust acquiring them, and to begin the often tortuous process of persuading their aristocratic owners to part with them, often after centuries of family ownership.
Longleat House Wiltshire
You win some, you lose some: Jim Lees-Milne was unsuccessful in securing Longleat House in Wiltshire for the National Trust
But Jim, as charming and tactful as he was good-looking, was both persuasive and patient. One by one, some of the most important stately homes in Britain passed into the Trust's ownership, a process that accelerated significantly during World War II, as more and more owners realised the old order of things had gone for ever.
Jim, who was invalided out of the Irish Guards in 1941 after being caught in a bomb blast and developing a rare form of epilepsy, returned to the National Trust and found himself busier than ever, his work bringing him into daily contact with the rich tapestry that was England's often highly eccentric aristocracy.
Some owners received him in bed in their nightcaps, others took him to the estate pub; one particularly blimpish owner even proudly took him up to the tower to show him how he peppered the nearby lake with rifle-shots in winter to stop the locals skating on the ice. Jim took it all in his increasingly practised stride.
His success seemed hardly surprising. Born to a landed Worcestershire family and educated at Eton and Oxford at a time when both establishments were shamelessly elitist, Jim - as he flirted with elderly duchesses and politely deferred to curmudgeonly dukes - was, to outward appearances, simply mixing with his own sort of people.
But all was not as it seemed. Jim's father, George, had derived his fortune mainly from a Lancashire cotton mill and he had bought the house, Wickhamford Manor, where Jim was brought up, only two years before his son was born.
He was bisexual and, indeed, as a young man was rather keener on going to bed with men than with women
At a time when to be so closely associated with 'trade' could have spelt social death, it's not surprising that Jim kept fairly quiet about his background, simply describing his family as 'lower upper class'.
However, as Michael Bloch's fascinating new biography reveals, Jim had another secret, known to his circle of immensely well-connected friends - many of whom seem to have stumbled out of the pages of an Evelyn Waugh novel - but not to the outside world.
He was bisexual and, indeed, as a young man was rather keener on going to bed with men than with women.
At school and university, he had a steady succession of male lovers. At Eton, his great affair was with Tom Mitford, brother of the later famous Mitford sisters; at Oxford, his lovers included the future Colonial Secretary Alan Lennox-Boyd, and an up-and- coming young actor called John Gielgud, who would treat him to meals at the Spread Eagle tavern in Thame.
One of his greatest romantic interests was the fellow conservationist Rick Stewart-Jones.
But unlike many of his homosexual friends, Jim also enjoyed both the company and the physical charms of women.
Having lost his virginity at the age of 17 to a voluptuous, recently divorced cousin, Jim - a hopeless romantic - would fall sporadically in love with women for the rest of his life.
An early object of his affections, which were welcome but not wholly reciprocated, was Diana Mitford, to whom he was attracted not only because she was the most beautiful of the Mitford girls, but because she reminded him of his Eton flame, Tom.
Shortly after coming down from Oxford in 1931 and finding himself with little idea of what to do next, Jim worked as a political campaigner for Sir Oswald Mosley, who had founded his New Party in 1930 (he would not embrace fascism until 1932) and was now fighting the General Election.
Mosley, whose aunt had married Jim's uncle, had not yet met his future wife Diana Mitford, with whom Jim had recently been in love.
Mosley lost in Stoke-on-Trent, but not before Jim had met another New Party candidate, someone who was to become one of the most influential figures in his life - Harold Nicolson, ex-diplomat and man of letters who combined marriage to Vita Sackville-West - the poet, author and celebrated creator of the garden at Sissinghurst in Kent - with a penchant for the company of intelligent, always handsome young men.
What the world knows now, of course, but was then known only to a select few, was that the Nicolson-Sackville-West marriage was highly unusual.
While devoted to each other and having produced two sons, they were both basically homosexual and allowed each other complete freedom to pursue their respective sexual interests.

At Oxford, James Lees-Milne's lovers included the up-and-coming young actor John Gielgud and in 1934 he was introduced to James Joyce in Paris
Within two years, Nicolson was pursuing his interest in Jim with enthusiasm. He frequently invited him to dinner in London and, in 1934, whisked him off to Paris (while Vita was in Italy conducting an affair with Harold's sister, Gwen St Subyn).
It was in the French capital that he introduced the impressionable 25-year-old, with his youthful passion for famous writers, to James Joyce, author of the acclaimed but controversial novel Ulysses.
In his subsequent and discreetly worded letter to Jim, Nicolson, 22 years his senior, encouraged the younger man to have no regrets about what had passed between them on that trip.
It was, he wrote, quite possible to derive both affection and tenderness from contacts that others might find objectionable.
Jim and Harold were to remain close friends for the rest of the older man's life.
Jim would live with him at his London flat in Kings Bench Walk, and seek his urgent advice when he fell in love with - and for a time became engaged to - Lady Anne Gathorne-Hardy (Nicolson advised that the basis of a successful marriage was intelligence and esteem, not physical lust).
And it was Harold's influence, after a tip-off from Vita, that secured Jim the job at the National Trust.
Jim may not have been entirely surprised by the Nicolsons' unusual arrangements. His own mother and father both had flings and longstanding affairs during their nevertheless enduring marriage.
His beautiful and flirtatious mother, upon whom Jim had doted as a child, ended World War I far closer to Jim's dashing, polo-playing godfather then she was to her own husband.
Not surprisingly George Lees-Milne, a man whose main passions were hunting, shooting and fishing, and who disapproved so strongly of his son's 'cissiness' that he denied him financial assistance, sought consolation elsewhere.
Given the example set by his parents and the Nicolsons, Jim may have had something similar in mind when, in 1951, at the age of 43, and to the surprise of his friends, he decided to get married himself.
What he couldn't have known, however, was how miserable what ensued would make him.
His beautiful and flirtatious mother ended World War I far closer to Jim's dashing, polo-playing godfather then she was to her own husband
The object of his heterosexual affections was Alvilde Chaplin, a wealthy heiress who was still married to her first husband when Jim met her.
There is no doubt he was genuinely smitten - Alvilde was intelligent, sharp and an accomplished hostess and organiser.
Perhaps too equine to be described as pretty, Jim would later describe her beauty as 'proud, guarded, even shrouded'. But, as others had already discovered, she could also be aloof, impatient, dictatorial, argumentative and possessive.
Even her unusual Christian name should have been a warning. Her father, General Sir Tom Bridges, was, as well as being a successful soldier and diplomat, a notorious philanderer.
While serving with military intelligence in Scandinavia, he had conducted an affair with a Norwegian ballerina of that name.
When his pregnant wife, Janet, discovered the affair, it is said she insisted on giving the child the name of his mistress as a permanent reminder to her husband of his adultery.
Alvilde confessed to Jim that, as a girl, she had herself succumbed to her father's sexual advances. Small wonder - especially after her first husband turned out to be another serial seducer of young women - that she preferred the company of sexually ambiguous men such as Jim.
But, like Vita Sackville-West, Alvilde also enjoyed the company of women; indeed in Paris in 1937, tormented by her husband's infidelities, she began a long lesbian affair with the city's great musical hostess, Princess Winnie de Polignac. The Princess was 72 at the time, Alvilde just 27.

Jim, who had met Alvilde with the Princess shortly before the latter's death in 1943, would have been aware of this when, six years later, he started seeing Alvilde regularly in London. (She was now a rich woman, having inherited a slice of the Princess's enormous fortune.)
Jim had a habit of falling in love with people who reminded him of others he had known in the past and in Alvilde's case, it seems that her determined personality reminded him of Kathleen Kennet, the sculptor and widow of the polar explorer Captain Scott, with whom Jim had forged a deep friendship as a young man that had bordered on the erotic.
Jim's romance with Alvilde proceeded at some pace; a succession of dinners and trips to the theatre and cinema was eventually followed by a holiday in Italy, which not only saw Jim having to borrow money to get there, but was taken with Alvilde's zoologist husband, Anthony, in full attendance.
Anthony was quite relaxed about the relationship, as throughout his marriage he enthusiastically pursued women on his own account.
Jim had fallen in love with Alvilde, writing in his diary. 'My mind a turmoil. A fire has been lit.' It was, he said, the first time his love for a woman had been fully reciprocated.
Alvilde divorced her husband and, on November 19, 1951, she married Jim at Chelsea Register Office, despite his concerns about her argumentative and possessive nature.
There were four witnesses, including Harold and Vita and James Pope Hennessy, the exotically handsome and quick-witted young man who had taken Jim's place in Harold's life.
Two more couples joined the party for lunch, and Jim must have taken quiet reassurance for the matrimonial life ahead that of the five men present, including the three husbands, all were homosexual; three of them being his own ex-lovers.
It may also not have escaped Jim's notice that of the women present, at least two had experience of lesbian relationships: Vita, obviously, and Alvilde.
Married life did not work out quite as Jim had presumably planned, although for the first few years the couple were happy, helped by the fact that for part of the year they lived apart - Alvilde in tax exile in the south of France, while Jim returned to London to work part-time for the National Trust and to resume his bachelor lifestyle.
These periods of separation worked as a safety valve.
It's not clear when the unhappy aspects of his marriage began to outweigh the happy ones, but certainly by 1958, Jim felt trapped in a union he considered a mistake.
Alvilde had declined to have further sexual relations with him. For a still highly physical man, this must have been a terrible blow and Jim compensated with a series of transient homosexual affairs.
Why had she gone off sex with her husband? There was one possible, if extraordinary explanation: Alvilde had abandoned herself to a passionate lesbian affair with Vita Sackville-West, whose husband had, of course, been Jim's lover 20 years previously.
Alvilde said nothing to Jim about the affair until it was almost over, and nor did Vita mention it to Harold. But Jim certainly knew about it, given that letters arrived for Alvilde from Vita 'almost daily for several years'.
Those letters - now archived in New York Public Library - make it clear that by 1955 the two women were much in love, although Vita was racked with guilt for the potential hurt it would do Jim, who had been her friend for almost as long as he had been Harold's.
But finally, at Sissinghurst, on October 26, 1955, under a full moon, their love was consummated.
When, in October 1958, shortly after his 50th birthday, Jim fell desperately in love, a marital crisis loomed
Alvilde's growing and genuine passion for gardening gave her the pretext for visits to Sissinghurst, and Vita's letters to her lover began to be spiced with love-verses.
Vita, however, whose past loves included socialite Violet Trefusis and novelist Virginia Woolf, was as famous for her lesbian passions fading as she was for starting them in the first place, and in 1957 she wrote to Alvilde bringing their affair to a close. There could be no more 'LL' - lesbian love. Alvilde was consumed with grief.
In the circumstances, Jim could be forgiven for thinking that his own romantic adventures would now be tolerated by Alvilde, but he couldn't have been more wrong. With Vita out of her life, Alvilde turned her famous possessiveness on her husband.
So when, in October 1958, shortly after his 50th birthday, Jim fell desperately in love, a marital crisis loomed. The object of his considerable affections was a handsome 27-year-old who, ironically, was introduced to him by Harold Nicolson.
Harold hoped Jim would be able to help the young man, who had an extensive knowledge of both architecture and sculpture, to get a job at the National Trust, just as Harold had helped Jim more than 20 years earlier.
Jim and his protege were immediately attracted to each other, with Jim no doubt seeing a reflection of his own youth in the younger man. Almost overnight, his mid-life melancholia turned to euphoria. However, when Alvilde learned of Jim's love for his new friend, she hit the roof.
After her suspicions had been confirmed by steaming open a few letters (a habit that was to stay with her for the rest of her life), she confronted Jim. Believing her own affair with Vita had set a precedent, Jim confessed freely. It was a dreadful mistake.
Alvilde was consumed with jealousy. Terrible scenes ensued, and many of their friends regarded the marriage as doomed.
Although relations between Jim and Alvilde were never quite the same again, and she remained both suspicious and jealous of his male friends, the marriage endured.
What saved it was their discovery of a house they both adored in the Cotswolds, where they went to live in 1961.
Alderley Grange, a Jacobean house with Georgian additions, was of sufficient architectural interest to satisfy Jim, while its large garden enabled Alvilde to indulge her passion for gardening, which had been encouraged by Vita (and which would later result in a new career designing gardens for such celebrities as Mick Jagger).
It was, to all intents and purposes, their Sissinghurst and would keep them busy for years. They would live there - increasingly happier as they got older - for the next 14 years.
The man who saved England, the man who had bicycled his way up so many an aristocratic drive, had been saved by his own little corner of English country life.
• James Lees-Milne: The Life, by Michael Bloch is published by John Murray at £25. To order at £22.50 (p&p free), call 0845 155 0720.


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