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Jeffrey Epstein: Filthy Rich | VIDEO: Official Trailer | Netflix

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Jeffrey Epstein: Filthy Rich is an upcoming American television miniseries about a convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein. The miniseries is based on the 2016 book of the same name by James Patterson, and co-written by John Connolly with Tim Malloy. Filthy Rich is scheduled to release on May 27, 2020.
Filthy Rich tells a stories of the survivors of Jeffrey Epstein, and how he used his wealth and power to commit these crimes.[1]

Episodes
1             "Hunting Grounds"          Lisa Bryant          May 27, 2020
2             "Follow the Money"       Lisa Bryant          May 27, 2020
3             "The Island"       Lisa Bryant          May 27, 2020
4             "Finding Their Voice"     Lisa Bryant          May 27, 2020


The miniseries was based on the 2016 book Filthy Rich: A Powerful Billionaire, the Sex Scandal that Undid Him, and All the Justice that Money Can Buy: The Shocking True Story of Jeffrey Epstein written by James Patterson, and co-written by John Connolly with Tim Malloy. Filthy Rich was announced prior to Epstein's death.



'It's outrageous': inside an infuriating Netflix series on Jeffrey Epstein

Jeffrey Epstein: Filthy Rich synthesizes legal information with first-person testimony of the billionaire’s abuse and bought immunity into a shocking watch

Adrian Horton
Wed 27 May 2020 16.13 BSTLast modified on Wed 27 May 2020 17.23 BST

It’s difficult to watch Jeffrey Epstein: Filthy Rich, a four-hour Netflix series on the now-deceased convicted sex offender without a choking sense of outrage. How many girls had to suffer to get attention? How perversely twisted is the American justice system that a Gatsby-esque billionaire, friends with such powerful figures as Bill Clinton, Prince Andrew and Donald Trump, a longstanding donor to Harvard and MIT, could buy his way out of an almost certain life sentence for child sex abuse and trafficking?

Filthy Rich arrives, of course, less than a year after Epstein, 66, died, officially by suicide, in a New York jail last August. “There’s no justice in this,” Shawna Rivera, speaking publicly for the first time about Epstein’s alleged abuse starting when she was 14, says in the final episode. “There was just so much more to be said that will never be said.”

There is, however, much to be learned from the sordid, winding, thwarted path to Epstein’s eventual arrest on sex trafficking charges in July 2019. Filthy Rich doesn’t so much break new ground as synthesize the abundance of information with the visceral impact of first-person testimony on Epstein’s crimes – stories of predation, self-doubt and shame by numerous survivors betrayed by the justice system supposed to protect them. Epstein’s decades-long legal saga is “the biggest example I’ve ever seen of somebody using their money and influence to thwart reporting on the subject and to work out an outrageous deal,” Joe Berlinger, an executive producer, told the Guardian.

Production on Filthy Rich began before Epstein became a household name – before his death, before his shock arrest, before a 2018 Pulitzer-winning investigation by the Miami Times-Herald into the sweetheart plea deal negotiated by federal prosecutors to keep Epstein out of prison. “The level of incompetence and back-door dealing that allowed him to get off – no one on this production thought he would ever be arrested during the making of the show,” said Berlinger, who first began work on an Epstein project in spring 2018, after he received a copy of mystery novelist James Patterson’s 2016 true crime book on the reclusive billionaire (and neighbor in Palm Beach).

The book “infuriated me”, Berlinger said, especially since, in 2018, “people were afraid to tell this story.”

Convincing women to speak on the record “was hard”, director Lisa Bryant said. “Some people wouldn’t talk at all, some numbers were wrong, some decided they just weren’t ever going to talk, for various reasons. Some hadn’t even told their parents about it.” The case of Epstein was never a he-said, she-said situation; to quote the retired Palm Beach police chief Michael Reiter in the Herald’s original story: “This was 50-something ‘shes’ and one ‘he’ – and the ‘shes’ all basically told the same story.”

But Epstein’s intimidation factor was strong, and many of the survivors, their justice thwarted by the plea deal and Epstein’s subsequent immunity, had moved on with their lives. “Yes, there was a pattern that he had, but each person’s experience with that and how they handled it is different,” said Bryant. “This is their story to tell, their narrative. We wanted this to be told through their eyes.”

The series revolves around the various experiences of the survivors, dating back to at least 1996, when the painter Maria Farmer and her teenage sister, Annie, contacted the FBI to allege molestation by Epstein and his ex-girlfriend Ghislaine Maxwell. It went nowhere. Years later, in 2005, Palm Beach police launched an investigation into an alleged sex ring run out of Epstein’s beachside mansion, in which Epstein and Maxwell allegedly coerced high-school girls – most of them around 14, in vulnerable circumstances and needing money – into sex acts under the pretense of a “massage” for $200. Maxwell has denied any involvement. The alleged crimes expanded even further, as favorites were allegedly trafficked to rich and powerful friends for parties at Epstein’s $77m Upper East Side mansion in New York, at a London townhouse, and on Epstein’s private island in the Caribbean.

Some survivors featured in the series are speaking on camera for the first time; others, such as Virginia Giuffre, have been advocating for justice for years. Giuffre alleges in and out of the documentary that she was forced to have sex with Prince Andrew, who has denied the allegations and queried the veracity of a photo that exists of him with his arm around her aged 18, with a smiling Maxwell in the background.

Given witness testimony in the series by a former Epstein employee who alleges he saw the prince engaged in poolside “foreplay” with a topless Giuffre on Epstein’s island, Andrew’s defense and lack of cooperation with prosecutors reads even more shabbily here. Andrew says he has “no recollection” of meeting Giuffre.

The show stokes justifiable outrage through each survivor’s account, retracing how the Palm Beach police department’s investigation was bumped up to the FBI, and was then derailed by a “non-prosecution agreement” the Herald called “the deal of a lifetime.” Signed in 2008, the deal – brokered by state attorney and later Trump labor secretary Alex Acosta and Epstein’s all-star team of lawyers, including OJ Simpson defender Alan Dershowitz (the only Epstein acolyte to attempt a defense in the series) – was controversially sealed and kept private from the accusers. It offered Epstein and named and unnamed co-conspirators immunity from federal criminal charges; instead, he pleaded guilty to two prostitution charges in state court, and served 11 of 13 months in Palm Beach jail, out six days a week on “work release”.

“He was still seeing girls, he was still making money, he was still conducting business – I mean, it’s just outrageous,” said Berlinger of Epstein’s “incarceration”. Epstein’s elusion of justice for another decade demonstrated how the American criminal justice system “was built for money and power and political gain”, said Bryant. “And we see that over and over again in this case.”

The series also addresses, but does not endorse, conspiracy theories on the cause of Epstein’s death; the medical examiner ruled a suicide by hanging, though an outside expert hired by Epstein’s brother raised unsubstantiated doubts, citing an unusual neck fracture. “I think it’s up for debate, and for people to look at the evidence both ways and make their own decisions,” said Bryant.

“There was nothing that we turned up that would definitively support the idea that he was murdered,” said Berlinger, “but we certainly felt [the theories] should be touched upon.” Personally, Berlinger said: “I do believe it was suicide.”

Epstein’s death denied survivors’ their true day in court, though several did speak at a posthumous hearing. There remains the possibility of prosecuting those linked to Epstein: perhaps Maxwell, whose whereabouts remain unknown and who recently sued Epstein’s estate – the fund supposed to compensate victims – for her legal fees. “I firmly believe and hope that the survivors will get that money,” said Bryant, and that statutes of limitations are reconsidered given greater understanding of childhood sexual trauma, the length and difficulty of processing enough to speak publicly.

For the survivors, said Berlinger, “the ultimate closure would be for everyone who enabled this sick lifestyle and everyone who enabled a wealthy white person with power and influence to have a different standard of justice to also be held to account.”

Jeffrey Epstein: Filthy Rich is now available on Netflix



You've read the Jeffrey Epstein headlines, now get the full story. The world's bestselling author, James Patterson, has written the definitive book on the billionaire pedophile at the center of the newly unsealed federal sex crimes case.
Jeffrey Epstein rose from humble origins into the New York City and Palm Beach elite. A college dropout with an instinct for numbers -- and for people -- Epstein amassed his wealth through a combination of access and skill. But even after he had it all, Epstein wanted more. That unceasing desire -- and especially a taste for underage girls --resulted in sexual-abuse charges, to which he pleaded guilty and received a shockingly lenient sentence.
Included here are police interviews with girls who have alleged sexual abuse by Epstein, as well as details of the investigation against him.


The Golf Match

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Back to the 30's golf attire ?  YES Please !!

JEEVES






“DO YOU HAVE A DRESS CODE POLICY?”
“Standard Dress Code Policy – Proper golf attire is required at all times for all players and riders to include both collared and/or tailored collarless shirts for men and recognized golf fashion for women. Golf shoes with soft spikes or athletic shoes required. T-shirts, swimwear, tank tops, jeans or cut-offs are not golf appropriate attire.”

Knicker(bockers) in a knot: The ‘Attire’ debate on the golf course
By Richard Fellner on April 30, 2012


Players like Aaron Cox aren't afraid to push the fashion boundaries. But is this practice good for the game?

From the early days of the plus-fours and ruffled cravats, to today’s bright colours and plaid ensembles, golf and fashion have long been intertwined.

That’s not to say that golf fashion has necessarily been “fashionable”. Just look at golf photos from the 1970s (or some of the blokes on tour today) and you’ll get my drift.

Attire on the golf course has been a contentious subject of late. The Inside Golf mailbag and inbox are full of letters decrying the “imminent demise of Neat and Tidy”, while last month’s cover photo of a “scruffy looking” Aaron Baddeley even got a fair amount of unhappy reader letters (see page 87).

In the continuing struggle to retain members, and attract the ever-important junior contingent, some clubs are beginning to relax the traditional dress codes. White socks and collared shirts still reign supreme, but it seems that more clubs are starting to “turn a blind eye” to the more creatively-attired players these days. It’s a neon-coloured grey area.

There are two sides to the argument. Traditionalists argue that the standards of Neat and Tidy attire MUST be adhered to in order to preserve the traditions and essence of the game. They contend that if we relax the dress codes – even a smidgeon– then the entire game may spin out of control into the equivalent of a no-holds-barred, “golfers gone wild” frat party.

On the other side of the fairway are those who claim that the game is entrenched in old-fashioned, elitist attitudes and antiquated traditions that have little appeal to the younger generations. They say that if we fail to capture the kids’ attention, the game will dwindle in popularity until it is equal in regard to, say Olympic Trampoline.

Dress codes in nearly all sports have regularly adapted to the times. From the AFL, to (Twenty20) Cricket, to American baseball to the NBA… uniforms have regularly reflected the fashion and styles of the younger generations. It’s seen by some as a “necessary evil” in order to ensure the survival of the sports.

Golf is no different. I’m sure there was a similar outcry centuries ago when a small band of golfers eschewed their kilts and animal skins to don (heaven forbid) ties, knickerbockers and morning coats. And what about those heathens in the 1920s who (gasp) stopped wearing formal jackets on the links? Or the “Free-thinkers” with the radical concept of NOT tucking their long pants inside their socks; or those who wore bowties, V-neck sweaters and even (double-gasp) short pants!

When you think about it, today’s accepted “Neat and Tidy” attire – namely the short-sleeve collared shirts, pleated shorts and golf caps – would have golfers of the 1900’s covering their niblicks in shame.

I’m not saying that we need to allow singlets and budgie smugglers on the course – on the contrary, I firmly believe that young golfers and beginners need to respect the traditions and the culture (and attire) of the game. But if we really want to keep our game alive, surely we can open up our minds a little, and maybe let our white socks drop a bit? There is certainly a compromise out there.

See you on the fairways (in a collared shirt, of course).

Richard

NO !!


YES !!

YES !!

Coronavirus: Queen pictured outside for first time since lockdown

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Coronavirus: Queen pictured outside for first time since lockdown

The Queen has been photographed riding in the grounds of Windsor Castle - the first time she has been seen outside since the coronavirus lockdown began.

The 94-year-old monarch was pictured on a 14-year-old Fell Pony called Balmoral Fern over the weekend.

She regularly rides in the grounds of Windsor, which is said to be her favourite royal residence.

The Queen has been isolating there with her husband, the Duke of Edinburgh, 98, and a small number of staff.

Queen: 'We will succeed' in fight against virus

The last public picture of the Queen was taken as she was driven away from Buckingham Palace to her Berkshire home on 19 March.

One of her two Dorgis - named Candy and Vulcan - could be seen next to her as they both looked out of the car window.

A Dorgi is a cross between a Corgi and a Dachshund.

The Queen travelled to Windsor Castle a week earlier than she normally would at this time of year to socially distance herself during the pandemic
The Queen carried out official duties the day before her planned departure, but held her weekly face-to-face audience with Prime Minister Boris Johnson on the phone instead.

The monarch is a passionate horse lover and breeder of thoroughbred racehorses.

Wearing a colourful headscarf and smartly dressed in a tweed jacket, jodhpurs, white gloves and boots, the Queen can be seen in the new photographs taken by the Press Association riding during the weekend's sunny weather.

The Queen has made two rare televised addresses to the nation during the lockdown.

In the first, she said the UK "will succeed" in its fight against the virus and thanked people for following government rules to stay at home.

It came less than a week after her son, the Prince of Wales, came out of self-isolation, following his coronavirus diagnosis.

In the second, she gave a poignant address to mark the 75th anniversary of VE Day, praising Britain's response to the coronavirus epidemic that has filled empty streets with "love".

Members of Royal Family have also been sending messages of thanks and support to key workers and the public during the lockdown.

The Queen and senior royals - including the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge - video-called healthcare workers around the world to mark International Nurses Day.

A number of annual events that mark the occasion had to be cancelled due to the pandemic - including Trooping the Colour, which celebrates the monarch's official birthday in June.

Members of the Royal Family, including the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, telephoned and video-called the monarch to deliver their birthday wishes.

Len Howard. A Life in Bird Cottage / VIDEO:Hand-feeding Birds in Slow Mo — Tufted Titmouse, Black-capped Chickadee

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Gwendolen Howard (1894 - 5 January 1973) was a British naturalist and musician. She is known for the unique amateur bird studies that were published in various periodicals and two books under her pseudonym, Len Howard.

Gwendolen Howard was the last of four children born to Henry Newman Howard (1861–1929), the British poet and dramatist, and Florence Howard, née Warman. Born in the town of Wallington, Howard lived with her family in various homes throughout England and Wales before beginning a music career in London, where she gave music lessons, organized concerts for children of the poor, and played viola in an orchestra under Malcolm Sargent. In 1938, Howard purchased a plot of land outside the village of Ditchling and arranged for construction of the home she later called "Bird Cottage."

Once resident in Bird Cottage, Howard developed an intimate, cohabitational relationship with the wild birds in the area, providing food (including her own war rations), chasing away predators, tending to damaged nests, and allowing the birds to fly and roost throughout her home. Around 1949, Howard began publishing her field notes and "bird biographies" in British natural history periodicals, and in 1950 her first book was published by Collins Press. Howard continued to write and publish about her birds until at least 1957. Believing that fear is the primary motivating factor in much of avian behaviour as observed by humans, and wanting to combat the scientific conclusions that had been drawn from such observations, Howard strove to effect great control over her and her birds' environment so as to maximize her birds' sense of security, and to encourage an uninhibited relationship with them. To this end, Howard was reclusive and gave strict instructions to those who ventured to visit her or contact her at Bird Cottage. Howard also undertook a public campaign in 1960 to prevent development on the land surrounding her property.

In her writings, Howard argued that individual intelligence, and not mere instinct, is a factor in much of bird behaviour. Howard paid especial attention to great tits in her studies, although she also wrote about other tits, robins, sparrows, blackbirds, thrushes, and finches, among others, and singled out particularly striking individuals for her biographies. Howard's musical training gave her unique insight into birdsong, and the final section of her first book is devoted to an in-depth analysis of this topic.

Gwendolen Howard died on 5 January 1973, at Bird Cottage, at the age of 79.


In 2016 a novel based on Len Howard's life and work, 'Het Vogelhuis', written by the Dutch author Eva Meijer, was published in the Netherlands, where it became a best-seller. It has subsequently been translated into several languages. The English translation by Antoinette Fawcett, 'Bird Cottage', was published world-wide by the Pushkin Press on 30 August 2018. Eva Meijer was interviewed about the book by Jenni Murray on the BBC Radio Four programme 'Woman's Hour' at 10.32, and by Sean Rafferty on the BBC Radio Three programme 'In Tune' at 17.23, on Friday 31 August 2018.








Missing the Allen Edmonds Patriot loafers. / VIDEO:Shell Cordovan Penny loafer comparison - Allen Edmonds vs Alden

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Missing the Allen Edmonds Patriot loafers. Lots of complaints that there were to narrow and painful in the beginning, but who cares ? You can always ask your butler or footman to wear them for a couple of months in order to ‘soften’ them up. (Ah, ah )
JEEVES





Founded in 1922, Allen Edmonds is one of the most well-known names in American-made shoes. The company, which is based in Wisconsin, has a huge selection of handcrafted, often Goodyear welted shoes in all styles, sizes, and designs. Although their most popular shoes are lace-ups like the famous Park Avenue oxfords, Allen Edmonds makes a great range of high-quality loafers.
Most Allen Edmonds loafers are priced from $200 to $400, although select models in cordovan are occasionally priced at $500 or more. You can occasionally find many of the most popular Allen Edmonds loafers for under $200 on Amazon.com. The company also runs annual discount sales where seconds (usual shoes with slight cosmetic damage) can be purchased at reasonable discounts.





Allen Edmonds is an American upscale shoe manufacturing and retail company based in Port Washington, Wisconsin. The company was established in Belgium, Wisconsin in 1922.

As of the end of 2017, Allen Edmonds operates some 78 stores, an increase from 2006, when it had 18 stores. It manufactures its shoes in the United States, as well as in Italy and the Dominican Republic.

In 2006, 90% of the shares in the company were bought by Minneapolis-based investment firm Goldner Hawn Johnson & Morrison for $100 million. In 2013, the company announced that it would be acquired by private equity firm Brentwood Associates. In December 2016, Caleres acquired Allen Edmonds from Brentwood Associates for $255 million.

The President is Malcolm Robinson, Robinson previously was an executive at One Jeanswear Group, Tommie Copper and Phillips Van Heusen.

Allen Edmonds gained much of its following after providing shoes to the US Army and US Navy during World War II, with many of the recipients of the shoes being loyal to the brand for the rest of their lives.

Allen Edmonds is a moderately expensive brand of shoes that men typically wear for a very long time and repair rather than replace. The company offers recrafting services, rebuilding a pair of shoes for a fee, replacing soles and heels, creating a new cork base and strip, and reapplying the finish.[8] The Horween Leather Company supplies leather shells for footwear to Allen Edmonds.

Manufacturing

As more than ninety-eight per cent of shoes sold in the U.S. are produced overseas, Allen Edmonds is among a small minority of companies that produces shoes domestically.[12] John Stollenwerk, Allen-Edmonds's retired chairman and former owner expressed a commitment to keep manufacturing in the U.S. In 2003, the company invested one million dollars—1.1% of the company's sales—in refitting their factory, which is intended to save 5% of the cost to produce each shoe. The factory has replaced assembly lines with teams of craftsmen of which each member performs several tasks. The new system reduces overtime, makes it easier to cover for absent employees, reduces the time spent picking up and putting down shoes, and reduces the number of spoiled shoes.

In 2006, concerned with rising manufacturing costs and endeavoring to compete more directly with the boat shoe and handsewn market, Allen Edmonds discontinued their Lewiston, Maine manufacturing plant and moved the handsewn production to their new, company owned factory in the Dominican Republic. Currently, shoe uppers for the Allen Edmonds handsewn collection are cut and sewn in the Dominican Republic. The raw materials are sent there from the U.S., where the uppers are sewn together, then shipped to the factory in Port Washington, Wisconsin to complete their construction, thus allowing them to be labeled "Made in the USA." Alternatively, styles from the "ae by Allen Edmonds" collection are produced entirely in and sold as Made in the Dominican Republic. In addition to their handsewn collection, Allen Edmonds also utilizes the Dominican Republic factory to cut and sew the uppers of their Goodyear welted collection of shoes. Similarly to the "American Made" handsewns, these welted uppers are shipped to the factory in Wisconsin, where the remainder of the lasting, welting, and soling are completed.

The Fashion of Film: How Cinema has Inspired Fashion by Amber Butchart / VIDEO:Amber Jane Butchart - Secrets of Selfridges

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The Fashion of Film: How Cinema has Inspired Fashion – 8 Sept. 2016

by Amber Butchart

Karl Lagerfeld drew inspiration from the dystopian vision of Metropolis. The picture-perfect worlds of Wes Anderson's films echo in Miuccia Prada's collections. From historical epics and romantic dramas to sci-fi blockbusters and arthouse cool, the world's most creative fashion designers have long taken their inspiration from screen idols - and continue to do so today.
Let fashion historian Amber Butchart take you a journey through the last 100 years of cinema style and its influence on the catwalks, and see how the fashion of film has transformed the world of fashion design.

Sumptuously illustrated with photographs of fashion creations and the films that inspired them, The Fashion of Film is a must-have for any fan of style.





Amber Jane Butchart is a British fashion historian and writer from Kessingland, Suffolk.

Butchart presented the BBC Four's A Stitch in Time, a six part documentary series which "explored the lives of historical figures through the clothes they wore". She also presented a segment in the BBC Documentary series Civilisations Stories entitled The First Refugees regarding the silk-weaving Huguenot community of Spitalfields. She is an associate lecturer at the London College of Fashion, and was formerly head buyer for vintage clothing company Beyond Retro. She has an MA in History and Culture of Fashion from the London College of Fashion, now part of the University of the Arts London. Butchart also acts as a consultant forensic garment analyst to British police forces and crime scene investigators.

Butchart is a regular guest on BBC Radio 4's Women's Hour.In January 2017 she appeared on Radio 4's The Museum of Curiosity where her hypothetical donation to this imaginary museum was "the colour mauve". She has also produced a two-part documentary for Radio 4 about the history of the vintage fashion industry entitled From Rags to Riches. Since 2018, Butchart has presented English Heritage's series of historic make-up tutorials on its YouTube channel. The series was part of the charity's efforts to expand its audience, and the campaign led to English Heritage winning the 'Grand Prix' and 'Best UK Breakthrough Advertiser' prizes at the 2019 YouTube Works Awards.


She regularly hosts fashion events, including Puttin’ on the Glitz: Fashion & Film in the Jazz Age at the British Library in 2014.

Prince Andrew asked by US to testify in Jeffrey Epstein sex case / Prince Andrew 'offered to help Jeffrey Epstein prosecutors' / VIDEO:BREAKING: Prince Andrew hits out at US investigators over Epstein interv...

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Prince Andrew asked by US to testify in Jeffrey Epstein sex case
1 hour ago

The Duke of York has been requested by the US authorities to testify about his relationship with sex offender Jeffrey Epstein, the BBC has been told.

It was first reported in the Sun that the US Department of Justice had made a formal request to speak to Prince Andrew as part of its Epstein inquiry.

He has been heavily criticised for his friendship with the US financier.

The duke has previously said he did not witness any suspicious behaviour during visits to Epstein's homes.

Prince Andrew stepped away from royal duties last year following a widely-criticised BBC interview about his relationship with Epstein, who took his own life in a US jail cell in August, aged 66, while awaiting trial on sex trafficking and conspiracy charges.

BBC royal correspondent Jonny Dymond said the BBC had confirmed the reports that the US authorities had submitted a mutual legal assistance (MLA) request to the Home Office - although this has not been confirmed by the US Department of Justice or the UK Home Office.

Under the terms of a MLA request if Prince Andrew does not voluntarily respond, he can be called to a UK court to answer questions.

Our correspondent said the duke's legal team was bitterly unhappy about the leaking of the request, with a source describing it as "an extraordinary breach of confidentiality".

A full statement is expected later with details about Prince Andrew's cooperation with US legal authorities.

MLA requests by other states are used to obtain assistance in an investigation or prosecution of criminal offences, generally when cooperation cannot be obtained by law enforcement agencies.

According to Home Office guidance, it is "usual policy" that the existence of a request is neither confirmed or denied.

Six things we learned from Prince Andrew interview
In his interview with the BBC's Newsnight programme in November 2019, the duke said he did not regret his friendship with Epstein, despite the financier having been convicted of soliciting an underage girl for prostitution in 2008.

He also denied having sex with Virginia Giuffre, when she was a teenager, who said she was trafficked by Epstein when she was 17.

Shortly after the interview was broadcast, Prince Andrew said he was "willing to help any appropriate law enforcement agency".

He was criticised in January by the US prosecutor in charge of the investigation into Epstein - Geoffrey Berman - who said the prince had provided "zero co-operation" to the investigators.

Prince Andrew 'offered to help Jeffrey Epstein prosecutors'
18 minutes ago/ Posted at 17:25

The Duke of York offered to help US officials on "at least three occasions" in the inquiry into sex offender Jeffrey Epstein, his lawyers say.

US authorities have previously accused Prince Andrew of not cooperating with the investigation.

But the duke's representatives suggested the US Department of Justice was seeking publicity rather than accepting the offer of help.

The duke has been heavily criticised for his friendship with Epstein.

He has previously said he did not witness any suspicious behaviour during visits to Epstein's homes.

Prince Andrew's legal team has hit back at allegations from the US prosecutor in charge of the investigation into Epstein that the duke had provided "zero co-operation" to the Department of Justice (DoJ).

In a statement, the legal team said: "The Duke of York has on at least three occasions this year offered his assistance as a witness to the DoJ.

"Unfortunately, the DoJ has reacted to the first two offers by breaching their own confidentiality rules and claiming that the duke has offered zero cooperation. In doing so, they are perhaps seeking publicity rather than accepting the assistance proffered."

Prince Andrew stepped away from royal duties last year following a widely-criticised BBC interview about his relationship with Epstein, who took his own life in a US jail cell in August, aged 66, while awaiting trial on sex trafficking and conspiracy charges.

Big brands bring the fight to Big Tech

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Big brands bring the fight to Big Tech

Brands such as Louis Vuitton and Canon see Brussels’ future rules on online platforms as their long-awaited chance to crack down on counterfeit.

By LAURA KAYALI AND MELISSA HEIKKILÄ 6/8/20, 6:00 AM CET Updated 6/9/20, 4:37 AM CET

Brands like Chanel have long pressed tech firms to fight harder against counterfeit products sold online

For years, powerhouses like LVMH, Chanel and Nike have tried to force Silicon Valley giants to stamp out counterfeit products online.

Now their luck may be about to turn.

With the European Commission preparing new rules for platforms, brands ranging from fashion giants to tech companies are ramping up efforts to make rivals like Amazon and Facebook more accountable for checking products online.

The standoff is playing out in lobby groups across Europe and the United States, as the EU's executive arm prepares to unveil its package of measures on platform liability, known as the Digital Services Act, by the end of this year, and the Trump administration pushes for tougher action against counterfeit goods.

In the European Union, platforms are not legally responsible for the content they host, but do have to take posts down once flagged. Tech companies enjoy similar legal protections in the U.S. under Section 230 of the Communications Decency Act.

“Platforms have shown through the coronavirus crisis that they can address illegal content and goods online. Why not continue?"— Michelle Gibbons, the director general of the European brands association AIM

But over the past few months, as the coronavirus crisis has put a spotlight on scams and fake products being sold online, the European Commission has become ready to propose stricter rules.

“Platforms have shown through the coronavirus crisis that they can address illegal content and goods online. Why not continue? There shouldn’t be anything controversial about removing illegal goods and it’s in everyone’s interest to address this issue,” said Michelle Gibbons, the director general of the European brands association AIM, which represents household names such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Lego and Nike.

Boiling over
Tension between brands and platforms has been brewing for years.

In January, French luxury conglomerate LVMH’s CEO Bernard Arnault slammed Amazon in an earnings conference call, arguing the e-commerce giant was making money from counterfeit goods.

As the Commission seeks input from industry on its Digital Services Act, both sides are wary of a public dustup following a vicious battle over online copyright rules. But behind closed doors, tensions do emerge.

In lobby groups that bring together brands and platforms, the two sides sometimes have trouble forging common positions on future rules for tech companies, according to two industry players who spoke on condition of anonymity because they were not allowed to talk about internal discussions.

At least one lobbying group, BASCAP, the anti-counterfeiting arm of the International Chamber of Commerce, has seen brands depart after what people at several companies said on the condition of anonymity were disagreements over pushing legislation instead of voluntary measures on counterfeit. BASCAP did not comment.

Push for binding rules
Under the previous Commission, music labels, press publishers and the audiovisual industry won more tools to deal with Silicon Valley giants via the controversial copyright reform.

But brands felt that their concerns were not sufficiently taken into consideration.

In 2017, a group formed the Together Against Counterfeiting Alliance (TACA), gathering high-end fashion companies such as Chanel and LVMH, but also tech brands such as Apple. The group argues that voluntary measures — such as the Commission’s Memorandum of Understanding in which platforms and brands pledge to fight against counterfeit — are not enough to tackle the full scale of the problem. LVMH declined to comment for this story.

The current voluntary measures lack transparency, argued Måns Sjöstrand, head of intellectual property and brand protection at Swedish watch brand Daniel Wellington, which belongs to TACA. “Platforms claim they are doing a lot, but it's impossible to verify that,” he said.

A similar argument has been playing out in the United States, where brands including Birkenstock and PopSockets, a smartphone accessories company, have ended their direct sales relationship with Amazon over concerns about counterfeiting.

The issue has not eluded Washington power players either. Congress has called hearings to specifically discuss the proliferation of counterfeit products online, and the Trump administration released a plan in January that outlined steps for the government and private sector to work in tandem to address counterfeit products.

In April, the Trump administration released a list of so-called notorious markets that for the first time included the foreign operations of a U.S. company: Amazon’s websites in Canada, the U.K., Germany, France and India — granting brands fresh ammunition. (Amazon called Washington's move "purely political.")

‘Know your customer’
Platforms have ramped up efforts to fight counterfeiting in recent years. A spokesperson for Amazon said the company invested “over $500 million in 2019 and has more than 8,000 employees protecting [their] store from fraud and abuse.”

Even platforms struggle to approach the problem as a united front.

A spokesperson for Facebook said that in the second half of 2019, the company removed 490,000 pieces of content in response to about 50,000 counterfeit reports submitted.

In addition to taking down flagged items and proactive monitoring, Chinese giant Alibaba said it collaborates with brands to share knowledge on best practices, and has taken an aggressive litigation strategy, and illegal actors “will face criminal and civil litigation,” said Matthew Bassiur, the head of global IP enforcement at Alibaba Group.

Despite these efforts, “it’s still like comparing Chernobyl with [the Three Mile Island nuclear accident in] Harrisburg,” Pennsylvania, Daniel Wellington's Sjöstrand said.

One of the likely future bones of contention with platforms in the Digital Services Act will be the so-called know your business customer principle, which would require platforms, including online marketplaces, to vet their traders.

“The middlemen should verify the identity of the sellers. They don’t at the moment, there is no way to trace liability in case of consumer or business harm,” AIM’s Gibbons said.

Brands also want platforms to do more to track down illegal products proactively and ensure they don’t reappear online.

Brands vs. Tech vs. Tech
The counterfeit debate also pits tech companies against tech companies, as hardware heavyweights such as Apple, HP and Canon want platforms to do more against fake products online.

Apple, HP, Amazon, Google and others have to work together on common Digital Services Act positions in tech-focused trade associations such as DigitalEurope and ITI.

In DigitalEurope's paper on the Digital Services Act, the know your business customer principle is briefly mentioned — acknowledging that some hardware brands want to introduce it, yet urging caution.

Asked whether Apple was satisfied with the way online marketplaces deal with counterfeit, a spokesperson redirected POLITICO to a statement made by the company's senior director for intellectual property in the U.S. House of Representatives in March, which calls for more vetting of sellers and more cooperation with brands. The iPhone maker is among the most counterfeited brands.

But Apple's app store is also a platform, meaning the tech giant will not push for too radical an overhaul of the digital intermediary's liability regime.

And even platforms struggle to approach the problem as a united front.

“I would say that social media and chat apps are now the wild west of counterfeit and IP infringement activity, and these social media and chat apps are being used to circumvent our proactive measures,” Alibaba’s Bassiur said.

Steven Overly in Washington contributed reporting.


Anna Wintour apologises for not giving space to black people at Vogue

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Anna Wintour apologises for not giving space to black people at Vogue

Editor of fashion bible says sorry for printing ‘hurtful and intolerant’ stories and images

Morwenna Ferrier
Published onWed 10 Jun 2020 15.34 BST

Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of US Vogue, has admitted to making mistakes and publishing material that has been intolerant, as well as not doing enough to promote black staff and designers at the fashion magazine.

In a company-wide internal memo, written last Thursday and seen by the New York Post this week amid nationwide unrest and protests over the killing last month of George Floyd, Wintour apologised to staff at the magazine for “publishing images or stories that have been hurtful or intolerant”, admitted there were too few employees of colour, and took full responsibility for mistakes made during her 32-year tenure.

“I want to say plainly that I know Vogue has not found enough ways to elevate and give space to black editors, writers, photographers, designers and other creators. We have made mistakes too, publishing images or stories that have been hurtful or intolerant. I take full responsibility for those mistakes.”

The statement follows an extensive reckoning at media organisations as demonstrators in the US and abroad join global protests prompted by the death of George Floyd, a black man who died in Minneapolis after a white police officer handcuffed him and pinned him to the ground with his knee for almost nine minutes.

Earlier this week, Adam Rapoport, the editor-in-chief of the Condé Nast title Bon Appetit, resigned after a photo of him in brownface came to light, as well as ongoing criticism of how the food magazine treats employees of colour.

On Monday, Christene Barberich, the editor of the lifestyle website Refinery29, also stepped down after accounts surfaced from staff who said they had experienced racist discrimination at the company. On Wednesday, Samira Nasr was named US Bazaar’s new editor-in-chief, the first black editor-in-chief in the magazine’s 153-year-old history.

According to Page Six, a celebrity gossip website, the memo states that Wintour “[wants] to start by acknowledging your feelings and expressing my empathy towards what so many of you are going through”.

The Guardian approached Condé Nast for a statement but had not heard back by the time this article was published.

Following the resignation of Rapoport, the publishing company issued a brief two-part statement on Twitter in which it briefly outlined its “zero-tolerance policy toward discrimination and harassment in any forms”.

Wintour writes: “I want to say this especially to the black members of our team — I can only imagine what these days have been like. But I also know that the hurt, and violence, and injustice we’re seeing and talking about have been around for a long time. Recognizing it and doing something about it is overdue.”

“It can’t be easy to be a black employee at Vogue, and there are too few of you,” she writes. “I know that it is not enough to say we will do better, but we will – and please know that I value your voices and responses as we move forward. I am listening and would like to hear your feedback and your advice if you would like to share either.”

The model Beverly Johnson became the magazine’s first black cover star in 1974, but it was not until 2018 that Tyler Mitchell became the first black photographer to shoot a Vogue cover – Beyoncé, for the September issue – in its 125year history.

The 70-year-old British-born editor was recently criticised following the publication of a memoir by US Vogue’s former editor-at-large, André Leon Talley, in which he accused her of inflicting on him “huge emotional and psychological scars” and said his departure from the magazine “felt like I was just thrown under the bus”. Talley’s name still appears on the US Vogue masthead, a list of its current staff.

Wintour’s note ends with a promise to “support organizations in a real way. These actions will be announced as soon as possible.”

Zara owner to close up to 1,200 fashion stores around the world

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Zara owner to close up to 1,200 fashion stores around the world

Inditex seeks to boost online retailing as coronavirus causes 44% sales slump

Store closures are expected to be concentrated in Asia and Europe, with the UK less heavily affected.

Jasper Jolly
Published onWed 10 Jun 2020 17.28 BST

The owner of Zara will close as many as 1,200 stores around the world as the clothing retailer tries to boost online sales during the chaos wrought by the Covid-19 pandemic.

Inditex said it would “absorb” between 1,000 and 1,200 mainly smaller stores, with losses concentrated among older shops from brands other than Zara. The Spanish company’s other brands include Bershka, Pull & Bear and Massimo Dutti.

Closures are expected to be concentrated in Asia and Europe. It is understood that the 107 Inditex stores in the UK are less likely to be significantly affected.

Inditex said that “headcount will remain stable”, with staff offered roles in other jobs such as dispatching online purchases.

The total store count will fall from 7,412 to between 6,700 and 6,900 after the reorganisation, which will also include the opening of 450 new shops.

Inditex, one of the world’s largest clothing retailers, has been hit hard during the pandemic, with sales down 44% to €3.3bn (£2.9bn) between 1 February and 30 April, the first quarter of its financial year.

The company reported a net loss of €409m during the quarter. Almost a quarter of its shops remained closed by 8 June.

However, online sales growth made up for some of the sales weakness, Inditex said. Online sales rose by 50% year-on-year during the quarter, and were up 95% year-on-year in April.

Bricks and mortar retailers around the world have been forced to re-evaluate their business models during the pandemic, amid expectations of lower footfall in stores for a significant amount of time. In the UK fashion brands Monsoon Accessorize and Quiz said on Wednesday they would close branches, with hundreds of jobs lost.

The casual dining sector has also been hard hit, with the Restaurant Group confirming on Wednesday that 125 of its outlets – the majority Frankie & Benny’s and Garfunkel’s – will not reopen after lockdown, putting 3,000 jobs at risk. The company also owns the Wagamama chain, which is unaffected.

Inditex said it would accelerate its push to sell more clothes online as it seeks to fend off the challenge of high street competitors such as H&M and the Uniqlo owner, Fast Retailing, and newer online-only rivals including Asos and Boohoo in the UK which have prospered during lockdown.

Under Inditex’s new plan online sales will account for more than 25% of the total by 2022, compared with 14% in its 2019 financial year. Larger stores will act as distribution hubs for online sales.

Inditex, controlled by its founder, Amancio Ortega, plans to spend €1bn on its online offering by 2022 and a further €1.7bn in stores to allow them to integrate better with websites for faster deliveries and real-time tracking of products.

How is Savile Row coping with the corona crisis?

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MARCH 27, 2020
Coronavirus Update

The government has now implemented a package of measures to help businesses throughout the coronavirus crisis. These measures include a three-month rent moratorium for retailers, support in paying employees’ wages and a 12-month business rates holiday.

A scheme to help the self-employed (of which there are many on Savile Row) was also unveiled yesterday. Full details can be seen here. https://mailchi.mp/17ee8568a10f/ukft-coronavirus-update-government-announce-self-employed-income-support-scheme?e=7742a9017f

Due to the coronavirus crisis, our members and neighbouring businesses have now closed their premises to customers until further notice.

Please note that a number of our members do offer online shopping services, some of which remain open for business.

Our members are adhering to World Health Organisation and local authorities' advice regarding the coronavirus situation to ensure the well-being of their customers, suppliers and staff.

And we are all working together to ensure that Savile Row emerges from this very difficult period in good shape and continues to operate as the unique street that it is.

We hope that you and your loved ones are safe and well at this time. And thank you for your support and understanding.

SEE ALSO:
Tailoring in a socially distanced retail world





COVID-19
Navigating the crisis | Pierre LaGrange on leading Huntsman Savile Row through COVID-19
20/05/2020

The Chairman of historic tailors Huntsman Savile Row since 2013, Pierre LaGrange is the latest luxury leader to discuss the impact of lockdown on the business – and why the tailors’ core values of ‘discreet luxury, timelessness, style over fashion, personal attention, handcrafted individual creations and sustainability’ are more desirable than ever…

HOW ARE YOU NAVIGATING YOUR BUSINESS THROUGH THE CURRENT COVID-19 CRISIS?

We have sent everyone home. Those who could have kitted out their garages, even childhood bedrooms, as improvised cutting/sewing rooms, so we would not let our customers down on existing orders. They will be ready for their fittings when the customers can come to us, or us to them! The customers have been extraordinarily supportive and our sales team (none of whom are furloughed) are in constant communication with them.

We have launched a few creative initiatives, such as the Design Your Own Tweed creation and the Literary competition, giving people something fun to do at home. Clients loved this. We also dug into our ‘hall of fame’ clientele and promoted some of our client’s films for movie nights with the family. Rediscovering how relevant Sam Goldwyn’s Best Years of Our Lives from 1946 is was a highlight of our communication. In tune with our clients’ mood, we moved our focus onto what we all need to get the most out of confinement, knowing things may not be the same for quite a long time.

WHAT HAS THE SITUATION TAUGHT YOU ABOUT LEADERSHIP?

More than ever, everyone needs to understand why they matter; why they are asked to perform various tasks and why the process is such – as these extraordinary times require imagination to solve never-encountered-before problems.

Collaborative management is unearthing amazing results, with everyone helping each other as we all have to survive the external shock – there is no time for working in isolation.

AND WHAT HAS IT TAUGHT YOU ABOUT YOUR BUSINESS?

I have amazing and resourceful people working here – even more than I thought –  which has provided some great surprises. But as the business revenues drew to a halt very quickly – most of our business is bespoke with one-to-one physical interactions – the cash burn is big. So one had to consider what was the relevance of what we do on the other side. Were we in the winning camp, or becoming obsolete? Well, we think our core values of discreet luxury, timelessness, style over fashion, personal attention, handcrafted individual creations and sustainability are more desirable than ever. Remember, bespoke has delivered experiential retail beyond the purchase of a product for centuries. How to deliver that experience to our clients is a new challenge, but the core attraction is alive and well. Affordability will need to be addressed, and we are lucky to have taken the initiative last year for a new approach to bespoke, offering a full Savile Row bespoke at what others charge for inferior, less fitting made-to-measure products. Furthermore, we will soon be announcing our ‘On Account’ house credit initiative, a modern take on layaway!

HOW ARE YOU – AND THE WIDER BUSINESS – SUPPORTING YOUR PEOPLE?

We are a large family, with shared values of solidarity and pride in our work. We had been doing Zoom management meetings since last year, convinced of the importance of getting together live on a screen when not able to physically, so we were prepared. We now have extended this to social occasion, from Zoom bake-off, quiz, prosecco pong, and next – Zoom karaoke! On these calls, we spend most of our time on social non-work related chats, yet there is always a good idea popping up for the business.

WHAT DO YOU SEE AS THE POTENTIAL LONG-LASTING CHANGES TO YOUR BUSINESS?

Needs must; it forced us to put on the front burner projects related to how we serve our clients, mixing traditional bespoke personal service with technology. Operating with a portion of our workforce on furlough, we have been able to reap some significant productivity enhancements, so when people come back, we will be able to leverage that. I told my team to imagine themselves in six months looking back on this extraordinary period given to them, a time suspension where one can do stuff they never had the time to when stuck in the grind of regular activity: don’t miss your confinement!

HOW ARE YOU, ON A PERSONAL LEVEL, DEALING WITH LOCKDOWN?

I feel blessed to be healthy and to have had the extraordinary event of my fourth child born mid-April. Every time I am looking at her, I remember how much I missed of that time with my older children as I was always out of the house then! I love watching how my bigger kids have grown internally in confinement, making them better people, getting the time to focus on what matters!




How Savile Row’s Tailors Are Planning for Life (and Business) After the Pandemic
Benedict Browne
May 14, 2020, 6:30 PM GMT+2

It’s no secret that Savile Row has been in a precarious situation for several years. Changing tastes and rising rents have revealed cracks in the bastion of tailored menswear. Now that Covid-19 is reshaping the world as we know it, those cracks could prove fatal. Yet, in a typically stoic, stiff-upper-lip British way, Savile Row remains surprisingly sanguine. It’s still operating to the best of its abilities, despite the circumstances, and is readying the broadside to come out of this all guns blazing. Now more than ever, we need to rally behind it.

The prevailing issue on Savile Row has always been business rates, such as property taxes and rents imposed by a handful of landlords. According to Anda Rowland, Director of Anderson & Sheppard, the landlords “don’t take into account bespoke tailoring’s relatively low margins.” It’s an opinion shared by Simon Cundey, Managing Director of Henry Poole, who says the landlords “set a precedent for us with these rates and it’s scary as hell. Even before this situation, we were thinking ‘What on Earth is this?’ and we could see some businesses pulling out.” Both companies have the largest workforces on The Row—31 for Anderson & Sheppard and 45 for Poole. If they’re finding it difficult, it should give some indication of how the smaller houses are faring.

To make matters worse, it’s an increasingly challenging time for all British businesses as the US increased tariffs on exports by 25 percent last year. Furthermore, with the continuous relaxing of corporate dress codes (Goldman Sachs now simply asks employees to “exercise good judgment” each morning before coming to work), there’s less need for an expansive wardrobe of suits for work. This should merely mean that tailoring businesses must evolve and adapt to changing needs, but sadly some didn’t receive the memo.

Last year Savile Row’s Hardy Amies and Chester Barrie both closed down for a mixture of reasons, including financial hardships, creative differences and an inability to get in sync with the times. A heavier-hitting blow was issued earlier this year, though, with the announcement that Kilgour was closing. “It’s horrible. It’s absolutely horrible,” reflects Cundey on the house that’s contributed to the allure of The Row since 1880. That’s brought the tally up to 13 empty shops on Savile Row—a street not much longer than 500 feet. Landlords shouldn’t be blamed entirely, but the rates are largely considered unsustainable for craft businesses and give little incentive for newer, more agile houses to set up shop.

Unsurprisingly, social distancing measures and government protocol resulted in shops closing and trunk shows being canceled or postponed. However, it’s not all doom and gloom as Savile Row is still fulfilling orders, to a degree. “Production hasn’t been affected and is still ongoing and we remain in daily contact with the team,” Richard Anderson says of his eponymous house. It’s the same situation at Norton & Sons, where director Patrick Grant says that they’ve “closed the store for the first time in over half a century, but our sewing tailors are still working from improvised workrooms in their homes.” Nimble as this setup is, it has its limits. Since the teams can only work up to a basted fitting, the final product will still have to wait until social distancing measures ease up. And, naturally, new clients can’t be fit. But if you’re an existing customer, you can support your tailor by placing an order. At the very least, it’s promising that there’s still work to be done for these skilled craftspeople—many of whom are self-employed, independent contractors.

At Cad & The Dandy and Huntsman, it’s a different situation, as both have been contributing to the Covid-19 effort by producing PPE equipment. James Sleater, owner of Cad, tells us they’ve received innumerable requests from hospices, ICU nurses and general practitioners in desperate need of medical apparel. “We have 12 coat-makers making about 150 scrubs a day,” he informs us. Not only is this noble work but it boosts the in-house morale. It’s also a small step in galvanizing The Row together, which is vital for their collective well-being. As Sleater puts it, if Savile Row aims to survive it will have to be through “strength in numbers.”

With The Row’s business owners now at home, they’ve been alleviated of their usual hectic days and can look ahead. Henry Poole is working on releasing an entirely new concept that will diversify its collection with additions unlike anything else in its plus-200-year history. “We are broadening the offering with a different type of soft canvassing that gets you to the Neapolitan type of lightness. You still get the Poole silhouette, just without the weight. It’s totally different,” says Cundey. Meanwhile, Richard Anderson says that “this period has given us the time to think about new designs for autumn; where our signature safari jacket has been reworked from a never-before-seen Prince of Wales check fabric.”

On the home turf, change was already afoot before the pandemic. Last year, Drake’s opened a new store on The Row and J.P. Hackett moved into the old Hardy Amies building. “They were the best candidate to take over. It’s a full maison,” Cundey notes of Hackett’s new vision. Ciffonelli also planted its tricolor flag around the corner, and Thom Sweeney is on track to open a 3,100 square foot bespoke and ready-to-wear store in the autumn, complete with a barbershop and cocktail bar. All of these names have a clearly defined aesthetic and engaged clientele, which will no doubt help draw people to The Row even more.

Menswear stylist and journalist Tom Stubbs was recently appointed as Savile Row Attaché by The Pollen Estate, the largest landlord in the area, who’ve given him the keys to 31 Savile Row and tasked him with injecting the street with new energy. “I’m calling it a creative atelier,” he says of the new space, and he’s working on several ideas—exhibitions, pop-ups, events, you name it—to help diversify The Row and increase its appeal. “We need to get some interesting stuff in there, and that’s what I am going to do.” Top of his list is rehousing Kilgour, saying “We must keep that bloodline going.” He’s also going to house Dobrik & Lawton, a new tailoring house with razor-sharp lines and a healthy amount of attitude and he’s in talks with Bianca Saunders, a rising star in the next generation of young British designers. With 25 brands in total (which aren’t exclusively British) on his list, everything he’s planning will nod towards The Row’s tradition but with a distinctly contemporary approach.

Regenerating The Row doesn’t end with new tailors and brands, as Stubbs is working on bringing food and drink into the equation. It’s an aim shared by his peers: “It needs to be fun! We need to have a great bar that serves coffee in the morning and cocktails in the evening. We need a barbershop or a proper newsagent,” says Rowland. Sleater agrees: “Savile Row needs an offering of lifestyle entertainment,” noting nearby Mount Street’s success in marketing a street with inviting bars with outdoor seating and floral displays.

When it comes to London’s tailoring scene, so long as it survives the storm of Covid-19, it seems that there’s plenty to be excited about in the near future. The crisis will, however, change our attitudes towards everything from how we consume to what we consume. “I think people will value craft and localism more than ever before in a post-coronavirus world,” says Grant. The current situation is teaching us to value and cherish the things that may have previously taken for granted, and many of those things can be found on The Row. All we need to do is show up.

The Queen’s Official Birthday - BBC

WALTERS OF OXFORD IS Re-opening / VIDEO: Brideshead Revisited - Lord Sebastian is sick

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Re-opening Update
The main store will be re-opening tomorrow (16th June) however the Barbershop will be closed until further notice.

We're pleased to announce the store will be re-opening Tuesday 16th June 10 am.
Please see our new opening hours below:
Tuesday - Saturday :10am - 4.30pm
Sunday - Monday : Closed
Until further notice
Look forward to seeing you soon.


About Walters of Oxford
A very warm welcome to Walters of Oxford, the hidden jewel in Oxford's Crown! Because we firmly believe that the customer really matters you will always be certain of the red carpet treatment here at Walters.

Walters of Oxford has been established for over 150 years here in Oxford the city of Dreaming Spires and are well known amongst Town, Gown and Country alike in the supply of quality menswear and Academic/Ceremonial clothing to the world over.

There is more to a clothing shop than just the building and the merchandise and at Walters we aim to give every customer our personal attention, whether he is considering a new suit, a new Gown or a pair of socks.

Because what you buy is of supreme importance to us, our aim is to make certain that your purchase is exactly what you require and not a near substitute.

At Walters you don't just find the finest quality clothing, you will find friendly personal attention too, and a genuine interest in your requirements. On such has our reputation been built.

We hope that we may have the pleasure of serving you soon!



BEFORE
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Ancient Roman Architecture / VIDEO: What Did Ancient Rome Look Like? (Cinematic Animation)

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Ancient Roman architecture adopted the external language of classical Greek architecture for the purposes of the ancient Romans, but was different from Greek buildings, becoming a new architectural style. The two styles are often considered one body of classical architecture. Roman architecture flourished in the Roman Republic and even more so under the Empire, when the great majority of surviving buildings were constructed. It used new materials, particularly Roman concrete, and newer technologies such as the arch and the dome to make buildings that were typically strong and well-engineered. Large numbers remain in some form across the empire, sometimes complete and still in use to this day.

Roman architecture covers the period from the establishment of the Roman Republic in 509 BC to about the 4th century AD, after which it becomes reclassified as Late Antique or Byzantine architecture. Almost no substantial examples survive from before about 100 BC, and most of the major survivals are from the later empire, after about 100 AD. Roman architectural style continued to influence building in the former empire for many centuries, and the style used in Western Europe beginning about 1000 is called Romanesque architecture to reflect this dependence on basic Roman forms.

The Romans only began to achieve significant originality in architecture around the beginning of the Imperial period, after they had combined aspects of their original Etruscan architecture with others taken from Greece, including most elements of the style we now call classical architecture. They moved from trabeated construction mostly based on columns and lintels to one based on massive walls, punctuated by arches, and later domes, both of which greatly developed under the Romans. The classical orders now became largely decorative rather than structural, except in colonnades. Stylistic developments included the Tuscan and Composite orders; the first being a shortened, simplified variant on the Doric order and the Composite being a tall order with the floral decoration of the Corinthian and the scrolls of the Ionic. The period from roughly 40 BC to about 230 AD saw most of the greatest achievements, before the Crisis of the Third Century and later troubles reduced the wealth and organizing power of the central government.

The Romans produced massive public buildings and works of civil engineering, and were responsible for significant developments in housing and public hygiene, for example their public and private baths and latrines, under-floor heating in the form of the hypocaust, mica glazing (examples in Ostia Antica), and piped hot and cold water (examples in Pompeii and Ostia)

Despite the technical developments of the Romans, which took their buildings far away from the basic Greek conception where columns were needed to support heavy beams and roofs, they were very reluctant to abandon the classical orders in formal public buildings, even though these had become essentially decorative[citation needed]. However, they did not feel entirely restricted by Greek aesthetic concerns and treated the orders with considerable freedom.

Innovation started in the 3rd or 2nd century BC with the development of Roman concrete as a readily available adjunct to, or substitute for, stone and brick. More daring buildings soon followed, with great pillars supporting broad arches and domes. The freedom of concrete also inspired the colonnade screen, a row of purely decorative columns in front of a load-bearing wall. In smaller-scale architecture, concrete's strength freed the floor plan from rectangular cells to a more free-flowing environment.

Factors such as wealth and high population densities in cities forced the ancient Romans to discover new architectural solutions of their own. The use of vaults and arches, together with a sound knowledge of building materials, enabled them to achieve unprecedented successes in the construction of imposing infrastructure for public use. Examples include the aqueducts of Rome, the Baths of Diocletian and the Baths of Caracalla, the basilicas and Colosseum. These were reproduced at a smaller scale in most important towns and cities in the Empire. Some surviving structures are almost complete, such as the town walls of Lugo in Hispania Tarraconensis, now northern Spain. The administrative structure and wealth of the empire made possible very large projects even in locations remote from the main centers, as did the use of slave labor, both skilled and unskilled.

Especially under the empire, architecture often served a political function, demonstrating the power of the Roman state in general, and of specific individuals responsible for building. Roman architecture perhaps reached its peak in the reign of Hadrian, whose many achievements include rebuilding the Pantheon in its current form and leaving his mark on the landscape of northern Britain with Hadrian's Wall.

Origins
While borrowing much from the preceding Etruscan architecture, such as the use of hydraulics and the construction of arches, Roman prestige architecture remained firmly under the spell of Ancient Greek architecture and the classical orders.This came initially from Magna Graecia, the Greek colonies in southern Italy, and indirectly from Greek influence on the Etruscans, but after the Roman conquest of Greece directly from the best classical and Hellenistic examples in the Greek world. The influence is evident in many ways; for example, in the introduction and use of the triclinium in Roman villas as a place and manner of dining. Roman builders employed Greeks in many capacities, especially in the great boom in construction in the early Empire.

Roman Architectural Revolution
The Roman Architectural Revolution, also known as the Concrete Revolution, was the widespread use in Roman architecture of the previously little-used architectural forms of the arch, vault, and dome. For the first time in history, their potential was fully exploited in the construction of a wide range of civil engineering structures, public buildings, and military facilities. These included amphitheatres, aqueducts, baths, bridges, circuses, dams, domes, harbours, temples, and theatres.

A crucial factor in this development, which saw a trend toward monumental architecture, was the invention of Roman concrete (opus caementicium), which led to the liberation of shapes from the dictates of the traditional materials of stone and brick.

These enabled the building of the many aqueducts throughout the empire, such as the Aqueduct of Segovia, the Pont du Gard, and the eleven aqueducts of Rome. The same concepts produced numerous bridges, some of which are still in daily use, for example the Puente Romano at Mérida in Spain, and the Pont Julien and the bridge at Vaison-la-Romaine, both in Provence, France.

The dome permitted construction of vaulted ceilings without crossbeams and made possible large covered public space such as public baths and basilicas, such as Hadrian's Pantheon, the Baths of Diocletian and the Baths of Caracalla, all in Rome.

The Romans first adopted the arch from the Etruscans and implemented it in their own building. The use of arches that spring directly from the tops of columns was a Roman development, seen from the 1st century AD, that was very widely adopted in medieval Western, Byzantine and Islamic architecture.

Domes
The Romans were the first builders in the history of architecture to realize the potential of domes for the creation of large and well-defined interior spaces.[8] Domes were introduced in a number of Roman building types such as temples, thermae, palaces, mausolea and later also churches. Half-domes also became a favoured architectural element and were adopted as apses in Christian sacred architecture.

Monumental domes began to appear in the 1st century BC in Rome and the provinces around the Mediterranean Sea. Along with vaults, they gradually replaced the traditional post and lintel construction which makes use of the column and architrave. The construction of domes was greatly facilitated by the invention of concrete, a process which has been termed the Roman Architectural Revolution.[9] Their enormous dimensions remained unsurpassed until the introduction of structural steel frames in the late 19th century (see List of the world's largest domes).

Influence on later architecture
Roman architecture supplied the basic vocabulary of Pre-Romanesque and Romanesque architecture, and spread across Christian Europe well beyond the old frontiers of the empire, to Ireland and Scandinavia for example. In the East, Byzantine architecture developed new styles of churches, but most other buildings remained very close to Late Roman forms. The same can be said in turn of Islamic architecture, where Roman forms long continued, especially in private buildings such as houses and the Turkish bath, and civil engineering such as fortifications and bridges.

In Europe the Italian Renaissance saw a conscious revival of correct classical styles, initially purely based on Roman examples. Vitruvius was respectfully reinterpreted by a series of architectural writers, and the Tuscan and Composite orders formalized for the first time, to give five rather than three orders. After the flamboyance of Baroque architecture, the Neoclassical architecture of the 18th century revived purer versions of classical style, and for the first time added direct influence from the Greek world.

Numerous local classical styles developed, such as Palladian architecture, Georgian architecture and Regency architecture in the English-speaking world, Federal architecture in the United States, and later Stripped Classicism and PWA Moderne.

Roman influences may be found around us today, in banks, government buildings, great houses, and even small houses, perhaps in the form of a porch with Doric columns and a pediment or in a fireplace or a mosaic shower floor derived from a Roman original, often from Pompeii or Herculaneum. The mighty pillars, domes and arches of Rome echo in the New World too, where in Washington, D.C. stand the Capitol building, the White House, the Lincoln Memorial, and other government buildings. All across the US the seats of regional government were normally built in the grand traditions of Rome, with vast flights of stone steps sweeping up to towering pillared porticoes, with huge domes gilded or decorated inside with the same or similar themes that were popular in Rome.

In Britain, a similar enthusiasm has seen the construction of thousands of neoclassical buildings over the last five centuries, both civic and domestic, and many of the grandest country houses and mansions are purely Classical in style, an obvious example being Buckingham Palace.

Materials
Marble is not found especially close to Rome, and was only rarely used there before Augustus, who famously boasted that he had found Rome made of brick and left it made of marble, though this was mainly as a facing for brick or concrete. The Temple of Hercules Victor of the late 2nd century BC is the earliest surviving exception in Rome. From Augustus' reign the quarries at Carrara were extensively developed for the capital, and other sources around the empire exploited, especially the prestigious Greek marbles like Parian. Travertine limestone was found much closer, around Tivoli, and was used from the end of the Republic; the Colosseum is mainly built of this stone, which has good load-bearing capacity, with a brick core. Other more or less local stones were used around the empire.

The Romans were extremely fond of luxury imported coloured marbles with fancy veining, and the interiors of the most important buildings were very often faced with slabs of these, which have usually now been removed even where the building survives. Imports from Greece for this purpose began in the 2nd century BC.

Roman brick
The Romans made fired clay bricks from about the beginning of the Empire, replacing earlier sun-dried mud-brick. Roman brick was almost invariably of a lesser height than modern brick, but was made in a variety of different shapes and sizes.[16] Shapes included square, rectangular, triangular and round, and the largest bricks found have measured over three feet in length.[17] Ancient Roman bricks had a general size of 1½ Roman feet by 1 Roman foot, but common variations up to 15 inches existed. Other brick sizes in ancient Rome included 24" x 12" x 4", and 15" x 8" x 10". Ancient Roman bricks found in France measured 8" x 8" x 3". The Constantine Basilica in Trier is constructed from Roman bricks 15" square by 1½" thick.There is often little obvious difference (particularly when only fragments survive) between Roman bricks used for walls on the one hand, and tiles used for roofing or flooring on the other, so archaeologists sometimes prefer to employ the generic term ceramic building material (or CBM).

The Romans perfected brick-making during the first century of their empire and used it ubiquitously, in public and private construction alike. The Romans took their brickmaking skills everywhere they went, introducing the craft to the local populations. The Roman legions, which operated their own kilns, introduced bricks to many parts of the empire; bricks are often stamped with the mark of the legion that supervised their production. The use of bricks in southern and western Germany, for example, can be traced back to traditions already described by the Roman architect Vitruvius. In the British Isles, the introduction of Roman brick by the ancient Romans was followed by a 600–700 year gap in major brick production.

Roman concrete
Concrete quickly supplanted brick as the primary building material,[citation needed] and more daring buildings soon followed, with great pillars supporting broad arches and domes rather than dense lines of columns suspending flat architraves. The freedom of concrete also inspired the colonnade screen, a row of purely decorative columns in front of a load-bearing wall. In smaller-scale architecture, concrete's strength freed the floor plan from [Rectangle|rectangular]] cells to a more free-flowing environment. Most of these developments are described by Vitruvius, writing in the first century BC in his work De architectura.

Although concrete had been used on a minor scale in Mesopotamia, Roman architects perfected Roman concrete and used it in buildings where it could stand on its own and support a great deal of weight. The first use of concrete by the Romans was in the town of Cosa sometime after 273 BC. Ancient Roman concrete was a mixture of lime mortar, aggregate, pozzolana, water, and stones, and was stronger than previously-used concretes. The ancient builders placed these ingredients in wooden frames where they hardened and bonded to a facing of stones or (more frequently) bricks. The aggregates used were often much larger than in modern concrete, amounting to rubble.

When the framework was removed, the new wall was very strong, with a rough surface of bricks or stones. This surface could be smoothed and faced with an attractive stucco or thin panels of marble or other coloured stones called a "revetment". Concrete construction proved to be more flexible and less costly than building solid stone buildings. The materials were readily available and not difficult to transport. The wooden frames could be used more than once, allowing builders to work quickly and efficiently. Concrete is arguably the Roman contribution most relevant to modern architecture.

City design
The ancient Romans employed regular orthogonal structures on which they molded their colonies They probably were inspired by Greek and Hellenic examples, as well as by regularly planned cities that were built by the Etruscans in Italy. (see Marzabotto)

The Romans used a consolidated scheme for city planning, developed for military defense and civil convenience. The basic plan consisted of a central forum with city services, surrounded by a compact, rectilinear grid of streets, and wrapped in a wall for defense. To reduce travel times, two diagonal streets crossed the square grid, passing through the central square. A river usually flowed through the city, providing water, transport, and sewage disposal. Hundreds of towns and cities were built by the Romans throughout their empire. Many European towns, such as Turin, preserve the remains of these schemes, which show the very logical way the Romans designed their cities. They would lay out the streets at right angles, in the form of a square grid. All roads were equal in width and length, except for two, which were slightly wider than the others. One of these ran east–west, the other, north–south, and they intersected in the middle to form the center of the grid. All roads were made of carefully fitted flag stones and filled in with smaller, hard-packed rocks and pebbles. Bridges were constructed where needed. Each square marked off by four roads was called an insula, the Roman equivalent of a modern city block.

Each insula was 80 yards (73 m) square, with the land within it divided. As the city developed, each insula would eventually be filled with buildings of various shapes and sizes and crisscrossed with back roads and alleys. Most insulae were given to the first settlers of a Roman city, but each person had to pay to construct his own house.

The city was surrounded by a wall to protect it from invaders and to mark the city limits. Areas outside city limits were left open as farmland. At the end of each main road was a large gateway with watchtowers. A portcullis covered the opening when the city was under siege, and additional watchtowers were constructed along the city walls. An aqueduct was built outside the city walls.


The development of Greek and Roman urbanization is relatively well-known, as there are relatively many written sources, and there has been much attention to the subject, since the Romans and Greeks are generally regarded as the main ancestors of modern Western culture. It should not be forgotten, though, that the Etruscans had many considerable towns and there were also other cultures with more or less urban settlements in Europe, primarily of Celtic origin.[

Kristen Stewart to play Princess Diana in new film Spencer

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Kristen Stewart to play Princess Diana in new film Spencer

Jackie film-maker Pablo Larraín to direct drama that takes place over weekend when Diana decided marriage was not working

Benjamin Lee
Published onWed 17 Jun 2020 17.28 BST

Kristen Stewart is set to star as Diana, Princess of Wales, in a new drama from Pablo Larraín, the acclaimed Chilean director of Jackie.

The film, called Spencer, will follow Diana over one weekend when she decided her marriage to Prince Charles wasn’t working. The film is scripted by Steven Knight, whose credits range from Peaky Blinders to Eastern Promises. Spencer will be shopped to buyers at this year’s virtual Cannes market with production set to begin in early 2021.

“We all grew up, at least I did in my generation, reading and understanding what a fairy tale is,” Larraín said to Deadline. “Usually, the prince comes and finds the princess, invites her to become his wife and eventually she becomes queen. That is the fairy tale. When someone decides not to be the queen, and says, I’d rather go and be myself, it’s a big big decision, a fairy tale upside down … that is the heart of the movie.”

Larraín, whose films also include Neruda and The Club, has said that Stewart is a perfect choice because of her mixture of mystery and fragility. “I think she’s going to do something stunning and intriguing at the same time,” he added. “She is this force of nature.”

Jackie, Larraín’s unconventional biopic of Jackie Onassis, met with positive reviews in 2016 and an Oscar nomination for its star, Natalie Portman.

Since graduating from the Twilight franchise, Stewart has garnered acclaim for smaller films such as Personal Shopper and Clouds of Sils Maria while experiencing box office disappointments with bigger projects such as Charlie’s Angels and Underwater. She will be seen next in the queer Christmas comedy Happiest Season.

The story of Diana was previously brought to the screen by the Downfall director Oliver Hirschbiegel in 2013 with Naomi Watts in the lead role. The Guardian’s Peter Bradshaw called it “car crash cinema” while the Mirror’s David Edwards wrote that “Wesley Snipes in a blonde wig would be more convincing”.


Greek Revival architecture / VIDEO:What Did Ancient Greece Look Like? (Cinematic Animation)

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Greek Revival architecture


Brandenburg Gate in Berlin, Germany.


Thomas Hamilton's design for the Royal High School, Edinburgh, completed 1829.


Klenze's Propyläen (Gateway) in Munich, 1854–1862.



The Yorkshire Museum designed by architect William Wilkins and officially opened in February 1830

The Greek Revival was an architectural movement of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, predominantly in Northern Europe and the United States. It revived the style of ancient Greek architecture, in particular the Greek temple, with varying degrees of thoroughness and consistency. A product of Hellenism, it may be looked upon as the last phase in the development of Neoclassical architecture, which had for long mainly drawn from Roman architecture. The term was first used by Charles Robert Cockerell in a lecture he gave as Professor of Architecture to the Royal Academy of Arts, London in 1842.

With a newfound access to Greece, or initially the books produced by the few who had actually been able to visit the sites, archaeologist-architects of the period studied the Doric and Ionic orders. In each country it touched, the style was looked on as the expression of local nationalism and civic virtue, and freedom from the lax detail and frivolity that was thought to characterize the architecture of France and Italy, two countries where the style never really took hold. This was especially the case in Britain, Germany and the United States, where the idiom was regarded as being free from ecclesiastical and aristocratic associations.

The taste for all things Greek in furniture and interior design, sometimes called Neo-Grec, was at its peak by the beginning of the 19th century, when the designs of Thomas Hope had influenced a number of decorative styles known variously as Neoclassical, Empire, Russian Empire, and Regency architecture in Britain. Greek Revival architecture took a different course in a number of countries, lasting until the Civil War in America (1860s) and even later in Scotland.




Rediscovery of Greece
Despite the unbounded prestige of ancient Greece among the educated elite of Europe, there was minimal direct knowledge of that civilization before the middle of the 18th century. The monuments of Greek antiquity were known chiefly from Pausanias and other literary sources. Visiting Ottoman Greece was difficult and dangerous business prior to the period of stagnation beginning with the Great Turkish War. Few Grand Tourists called on Athens during the first half of the 18th century, and none made any significant study of the architectural ruins.

It would take until the expedition funded by the Society of Dilettanti of 1751 by James Stuart and Nicholas Revett before serious archaeological inquiry began in earnest. Stuart and Revett's findings, published in 1762 (first volume) as The Antiquities of Athens, along with Julien-David Le Roy's Ruines des plus beaux monuments de la Grèce (1758) were the first accurate surveys of ancient Greek architecture.

Meanwhile, the rediscovery of the three relatively easily accessible Greek temples at Paestum in southern Italy created huge interest throughout Europe, and prints by Piranesi and others were widely circulated. Access to the originals in Greece itself only became easier after the Greek War of Independence ended in 1832; Lord Byron's participation and death during this had brought it additional prominence.

Britain
Following the travels to Greece of Nicholas Revett, a Suffolk gentleman architect, and the better remembered James Stuart in the early 1750s, intellectual curiosity quickly led to a desire to emulate. Stuart was commissioned after his return from Greece by George Lyttelton to produce the first Greek building in England, the garden temple at Hagley Hall (1758–59). A number of British architects in the second half of the century took up the expressive challenge of the Doric from their aristocratic patrons, including Benjamin Henry Latrobe (notably at Hammerwood Park and Ashdown House) and Sir John Soane, but it was to remain the private enthusiasm of connoisseurs up to the first decade of the 19th century. An early example of Greek Doric architecture (in the facade), married with a more Palladian interior, is the Revett-designed rural church of Ayot St Lawrence in Hertfordshire, commissioned in 1775 by Lord Lionel Lyde of the eponymous manor. The Doric columns of this church, with their "pie-crust crimped" details, are taken from drawings that Revett made of the Temple of Apollo on the Cycladic island of Delos, in the collection of books that he (and Stuart in some cases) produced, largely funded by special subscription by the Society of Dilettanti. See more in Terry Friedman's book "The Georgian Parish Church", Spire Books, 2004.



Façade of the British Museum

Seen in its wider social context, Greek Revival architecture sounded a new note of sobriety and restraint in public buildings in Britain around 1800 as an assertion of nationalism attendant on the Act of Union, the Napoleonic Wars, and the clamour for political reform. It was to be William Wilkins's winning design for the public competition for Downing College, Cambridge that announced the Greek style was to be a dominant idiom in architecture, especially for public buildings of this sort. Wilkins and Robert Smirke went on to build some of the most important buildings of the era, including the Theatre Royal, Covent Garden (1808–1809), the General Post Office (1824–1829) and the British Museum (1823–1848), the Wilkins Building of University College London (1826–1830) and the National Gallery (1832–1838).

Arguably the greatest British exponent of the style was Decimus Burton.

In London, twenty three Greek Revival Commissioners' churches were built between 1817 and 1829, the most notable being St.Pancras church by William and Henry William Inwood. In Scotland the style was avidly adopted by William Henry Playfair, Thomas Hamilton and Charles Robert Cockerell, who severally and jointly contributed to the massive expansion of Edinburgh's New Town, including the Calton Hill development and the Moray Estate. Such was the popularity of the Doric in Edinburgh that the city now enjoys a striking visual uniformity, and as such is sometimes whimsically referred to as "the Athens of the North".


  Edinburgh's New Town / "the Athens of the North".



Within Regency architecture the style already competed with Gothic Revival and the continuation of the less stringent Palladian and neoclassical styles of Georgian architecture, the other two remaining more common for houses, both in towns and English country houses. If it is tempting to see the Greek Revival as the expression of Regency authoritarianism, then the changing conditions of life in Britain made Doric the loser of the Battle of the Styles, dramatically symbolized by the selection of Charles Barry's Gothic design for the Palace of Westminster in 1836. Nevertheless, Greek continued to be in favour in Scotland well into the 1870s in the singular figure of Alexander Thomson, known as "Greek Thomson".

Germany and France


Leo von Klenze's Walhalla, Regensburg, Bavaria, 1842

In Germany, Greek Revival architecture is predominantly found in two centres, Berlin and Munich. In both locales, Doric was the court style rather than a popular movement, and was heavily patronised by Frederick William II of Prussia and Ludwig I of Bavaria as the expression of their desires for their respective seats to become the capital of Germany. The earliest Greek building was the Brandenburg Gate (1788–91) by Carl Gotthard Langhans, who modelled it on the Propylaea. Ten years after the death of Frederick the Great, the Berlin Akademie initiated a competition for a monument to the king that would promote "morality and patriotism."

Friedrich Gilly's unexecuted design for a temple raised above the Leipziger Platz caught the tenor of high idealism that the Germans sought in Greek architecture and was enormously influential on Karl Friedrich Schinkel and Leo von Klenze. Schinkel was in a position to stamp his mark on Berlin after the catastrophe of the French occupation ended in 1813; his work on what is now the Altes Museum, Konzerthaus Berlin, and the Neue Wache transformed that city. Similarly, in Munich von Klenze's Glyptothek and Walhalla memorial were the fulfilment of Gilly's vision of an orderly and moral German world. The purity and seriousness of the style was intended as an assertion of German national values and partly intended as a deliberate riposte to France, where it never really caught on.

By comparison, Greek Revival architecture in France was never popular with either the state or the public. What little there is started with Charles de Wailly's crypt in the church of St Leu-St Gilles (1773–80), and Claude Nicolas Ledoux's Barriere des Bonshommes (1785–89). First-hand evidence of Greek architecture was of very little importance to the French, due to the influence of Marc-Antoine Laugier's doctrines that sought to discern the principles of the Greeks instead of their mere practices. It would take until Labrouste's Neo-Grec of the Second Empire for Greek Revival architecture to flower briefly in France.

Russia


Saint Petersburg Bourse

The style was especially attractive in Russia, if only because they shared the Eastern Orthodox faith with the Greeks. The historic centre of Saint Petersburg was rebuilt by Alexander I of Russia, with many buildings giving the Greek Revival a Russian debut. The Saint Petersburg Bourse on Vasilievsky Island has a temple front with 44 Doric columns. Quarenghi's design for the Manege "mimics a 5th-century BC Athenian temple with a portico of eight Doric columns bearing a pediment and bas reliefs".

Leo von Klenze's expansion of the palace that is now the Hermitage Museum is another example of the style.


 The main building of the Academy of Athens, one of Theophil Hansen's "Trilogy" in central Athens.
Greece

Following the Greek War of Independence, Romantic Nationalist ideology encouraged the use of historically Greek architectural styles in place of Ottoman or pan-European ones. Classical architecture was used for secular public buildings, while Byzantine architecture was preferred for churches.

Examples of Greek Revival architecture in Greece include the Old Royal Palace (now the home of the Parliament of Greece), the Academy and University of Athens, the Zappeion, and the National Library of Greece. The most prominent architects in this style were northern Europeans such as Christian and Theophil Hansen and Ernst Ziller and German-trained Greeks such as Stamatios Kleanthis and Panagis Kalkos.

Rest of Europe


Austrian Parliament Building exterior

The style was generally popular in northern Europe, and not in the south (except for Greece itself), at least during the main period. Examples can be found in Poland, Lithuania, and Finland, where the assembly of Greek buildings in Helsinki city centre is particularly notable. At the cultural edges of Europe, in the Swedish region of western Finland, Greek Revival motifs might be grafted on a purely Baroque design, as in the design for Oravais Church by Jacob Rijf, 1792. A Greek Doric order, rendered in the anomalous form of pilasters, contrasts with the hipped roof and boldly scaled cupola and lantern, of wholly traditional Baroque inspiration.

In Austria, one of the best examples of this style is the Parliament Building designed by Theophil Hansen.

North America


Second Bank of the United States, Philadelphia, 1824.

While some eighteenth-century Americans had feared Greek democracy ("mobocracy"), the appeal of ancient Greece rose in the 19th century along with the growing acceptance of democracy. This made Greek architecture suddenly more attractive in both the North and South, for differing ideological purposes (for the North, Greek architecture symbolized the freedom of the Greeks; in the South it symbolized the cultural glories enabled by a slave society).[7] Thomas Jefferson owned a copy of the first volume of The Antiquities of Athens.[8] He never practiced in the style, but he played an important role introducing Greek Revival architecture to the United States.

In 1803, Jefferson appointed Benjamin Henry Latrobe as surveyor of public building in the United States, and Latrobe designed a number of important public buildings in Washington, D.C. and Philadelphia, including work on the United States Capitol and the Bank of Pennsylvania.


Latrobe's design for the Capitol was an imaginative interpretation of the classical orders not constrained by historical precedent, incorporating American motifs such as corncobs and tobacco leaves. This idiosyncratic approach became typical of the American attitude to Greek detailing. His overall plan for the Capitol did not survive, though many of his interiors did. He also did notable work on the Supreme Court interior (1806–1807), and his masterpiece was the Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, Baltimore (1805–1821).

Latrobe claimed, "I am a bigoted Greek in the condemnation of the Roman architecture", but he did not rigidly impose Greek forms. "Our religion," he said, "requires a church wholly different from the temple, our legislative assemblies and our courts of justice, buildings of entirely different principles from their basilicas; and our amusements could not possibly be performed in their theatres or amphitheatres." His circle of junior colleagues became an informal school of Greek revivalists, and his influence shaped the next generation of American architects.



United States Supreme Court Building, Washington, D.C., 1935

Greek revival architecture in North America also included attention to interior decoration. The role of American women was critical for introducing a wholistic style of Greek-inspired design to American interiors. Innovations such as the Greek-inspired "sofa" and the "klismos chair" allowed both American women and men to pose as Greeks in their homes, and also in the numerous portraits of the period that show them lounging in Greek-inspired furniture.

The second phase in American Greek Revival saw the pupils of Latrobe create a monumental national style under the patronage of banker and hellenophile Nicholas Biddle, including such works as the Second Bank of the United States by William Strickland (1824), Biddle's home "Andalusia" by Thomas U. Walter (1835–1836), and Girard College, also by Walter (1833–1847). New York saw the construction (1833) of the row of Greek temples at Sailors' Snug Harbor on Staten Island. These had varied functions within a home for retired sailors.

From 1820 to 1850, the Greek Revival style dominated the United States, such as the Benjamin F. Clough House in Waltham, Massachusetts. It could also be found as far west as Springfield, Illinois. Examples of vernacular Greek Revival continued to be built even farther west, such as in Charles City, Iowa.

This style was very popular in the south of the US, where the Palladian colonnade was already popular in façades, and many mansions and houses were built for the merchants and rich plantation owners; Millford Plantation is regarded as one of the finest Greek Revival residential examples in the country.

Other notable American architects to use Greek Revival designs included Latrobe's student Robert Mills, who designed the Monumental Church and the Washington Monument, as well as George Hadfield and Gabriel Manigault.

At the same time, the popular appetite for the Greek was sustained by architectural pattern books, the most important of which was Asher Benjamin's The Practical House Carpenter (1830). This guide helped create the proliferation of Greek homes seen especially in northern New York State and in Connecticut's former Western Reserve in northeastern Ohio.

British colonies
In Canada, Montreal architect John Ostell designed a number of prominent Greek Revival buildings, including the first building on the McGill University campus and Montreal's original Custom House, now part of the Pointe-à-Callière Museum. The Toronto Street Post Office, completed in 1853, is another Canadian example.


Polychromy


Hittorff's reconstruction of Temple B at Selinus, 1851.

The discovery that the Greeks had painted their temples influenced the later development of the style. The archaeological dig at Aegina and Bassae in 1811–1812 by Cockerell, Otto Magnus von Stackelberg, and Karl Haller von Hallerstein had disinterred painted fragments of masonry daubed with impermanent colours. This revelation was a direct contradiction of Winckelmann's notion of the Greek temple as timeless, fixed, and pure in its whiteness.

In 1823, Samuel Angell discovered the coloured metopes of Temple C at Selinunte, Sicily and published them in 1826. The French architect Jacques Ignace Hittorff witnessed the exhibition of Angell's find and endeavoured to excavate Temple B at Selinus. His imaginative reconstructions of this temple were exhibited in Rome and Paris in 1824 and he went on to publish these as Architecture polychrome chez les Grecs (1830) and later in Restitution du Temple d'Empedocle a Selinote (1851). The controversy was to inspire von Klenze's "Aegina" room at the Munich Glyptothek of 1830, the first of his many speculative reconstructions of Greek colour.

Hittorff lectured in Paris in 1829–1830 that Greek temples had originally been painted ochre yellow, with the moulding and sculptural details in red, blue, green and gold. While this may or may not have been the case with older wooden or plain stone temples, it was definitely not the case with the more luxurious marble temples, where colour was used sparingly to accentuate architectural highlights.

Similarly, Henri Labrouste proposed a reconstruction of the temples at Paestum to the Académie des Beaux-Arts in 1829, decked out in startling colour, inverting the accepted chronology of the three Doric temples, thereby implying that the development of the Greek orders did not increase in formal complexity over time, i.e., the evolution from Doric to Corinthian was not inexorable. Both events were to cause a minor scandal. The emerging understanding that Greek art was subject to changing forces of environment and culture was a direct assault on the architectural rationalism of the day.

'Product of theft': Greece urges UK to return Parthenon marbles / ELGIN MARBLES: The Relocation debate / The History of the Removal and challenges of Relocation.

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'Product of theft': Greece urges UK to return Parthenon marbles

The New Acropolis Museum wants to display antiquities removed on the orders of Lord Elgin

Helena Smith in Athens
Published onSat 20 Jun 2020 18.35 BST

The New Acropolis Museum was purpose-built to host the one thing every Greek government will always agree on: the Parthenon marbles being returned from London.

On Saturday, as the four-storey edifice marked its 11th anniversary, Athens reinvigorated the cultural row calling the British Museum’s retention of the antiquities illegal and “contrary to any moral principle”.

“Since September 2003 when construction work for the Acropolis Museum began, Greece has systematically demanded the return of the sculptures on display in the British Museum because they are the product of theft,” the country’s culture minister Lina Mendoni told the Greek newspaper Ta Nea.

“The current Greek government – like any Greek government – is not going to stop claiming the stolen sculptures which the British Museum, contrary to any moral principle, continues to hold illegally.”

For years, she said, the museum had argued that Athens had nowhere decent enough to display Phidias’ masterpieces, insisting that its stance was “in stark contrast” to the view of the UK public. In repeated polls, Britons have voiced support for the repatriation of the carvings, controversially removed from the Parthenon in 1802 at the behest of Lord Elgin, London’s ambassador to the Sublime Porte.

“It is sad that one of the world’s largest and most important museums is still governed by outdated, colonialist views.”

Greece’s centre-right administration has vowed to step up the campaign to win back artworks that adorned the frieze of the Periclean showpiece ahead of the country’s bicentennial independence celebrations next year.

Within weeks of his election, Kyriakos Mitsotakis, Greece’s prime minister, told the Observer Athens was prepared to allow treasures that had never travelled abroad to be exhibited in London in exchange for the marbles being reunited with “a monument of global cultural heritage”.

Well-placed government officials have not excluded the EU pressing for the return of the antiquities as part of an overarching Brexit deal.

The row was injected with renewed rancour when the British Museum’s director, Hartwig Fischer, described their removal from Greece as “a creative act”. Half of the 160-metre frieze is in London, with 50 metres in Athens and other pieces displayed in a total of eight other museums across Europe

Last year more than 14.5 million people visited the new Acropolis museum among the most popular cultural institutions globally.

For those who want the sculptures back in Athens, the Acropolis Museum’s top-floor Parthenon gallery is the perfect antidote to the dark Duveen gallery in the British Museum.

Some 2,500 years after its construction, the Acropolis is viewed as Pericles’ greatest triumph, testimony, say admirers, to his role in the achievements of the Golden Age.

As a classicist with an avowed love for ancient Greece, Boris Johnson has often paid tribute to the soldier statesman’s mastery of governance “by the many, not the few”, placing a bust of Pericles – purchased from the British Museum’s gift shop – on his desk as soon as he moved into Downing Street.

But the British prime minister remains an ardent supporter of the sculptures remaining in London contending they were “rescued, quite rightly, by Elgin”.

This month his predecessor, Tony Blair, conceded in an interview with the Greek newspaper Kathimerini that the sculptures had been in a box marked “too hot to handle”.




Relocation debate

Rationale for returning to Athens

Those arguing for the Marbles' return claim legal, moral and artistic grounds. Their arguments include:

The main stated aim of the Greek campaign is to reunite the Parthenon sculptures around the world in order to restore "organic elements" which "at present remain without cohesion, homogeneity and historicity of the monument to which they belong" and allow visitors to better appreciate them as a whole;
Presenting all the extant Parthenon Marbles in their original historical and cultural environment would permit their "fuller understanding and interpretation";
Precedents have been set with the return of fragments of the monument by Italy, Sweden,the University of Heidelberg, Germany, the Getty Museum in Los Angeles and the Vatican;
The marbles may have been obtained illegally and hence should be returned to their rightful owner;
Returning the Parthenon sculptures (Greece is requesting only the return of sculptures from this particular building) would not set a precedent for other restitution claims because of the distinctively "universal value" of the Parthenon;
Safekeeping of the marbles would be ensured at the New Acropolis Museum, situated to the south of the Acropolis hill. It was built to hold the Parthenon sculpture in natural sunlight that characterises the Athenian climate, arranged in the same way as they would have been on the Parthenon. The museum's facilities have been equipped with state-of-the-art technology for the protection and preservation of exhibits;
The friezes are part of a single work of art, thus it was unintended that fragments of this piece be scattered across different locations;
Casts of the marbles would be just as able to demonstrate the cultural influences which Greek sculptures have had upon European art as would the original marbles, whereas the context with which the marbles belong cannot be replicated within the British Museum;
A poll suggested that more British people (37%) supported the marbles' restoration to Greece than opposed it (23%)
The conservation claims made by British authorities over the time Parthenon Marbles have been kept at the British Museum seem controversial, if compared to contemporary British expeditions carried out in other parts of the Greek world. British architects Samuel Angell and William Harris[disambiguation needed] excavated at Selinus in the course of their tour of Sicily, and came upon the sculptured metopes from the Archaic temple of “Temple C.” Although local Bourbon officials tried to stop them, they continued their work, and attempted to export their finds to England, destined for the British Museum. Now in the echos of the activities of Lord Elgin in Athens, Angell and Harris’s shipments were diverted to Palermo by force of the Bourbon authorities and are now kept in the Palermo archeological museum.
In a 2018 interview to the Athens newspaper Ta Nea, British Labour party leader Jeremy Corbyn did not rule out returning the Marbles to Greece, stating, "As with anything stolen or taken from occupied or colonial possession—including artefacts looted from other countries in the past—we should be engaged in constructive talks with the Greek government about returning the sculptures."

Rationale for retaining in London

A range of different arguments have been presented by scholars,[53] British political leaders and British Museum spokespersons over the years in defence of retention of the Parthenon Marbles by the British Museum. The main points include:

the assertion that fulfilling all restitution claims would empty most of the world's great museums – this has also caused concerns among other European and American museums, with one potential target being the famous bust of Nefertiti in Berlin's Neues Museum; in addition, portions of Parthenon marbles are kept by many other European museums. Advocates of the British Museum's position also point out that the Marbles in Britain receive about 6 million visitors per year as opposed to 1.5 million visitors to the Acropolis Museum. The removal of the Marbles to Greece would therefore, they argue, significantly reduce the number of people who have the opportunity to visit the Marbles. The English Romantic poet John Keats, and the French sculptor Auguste Rodin, are notable examples of visitors to the Parthenon Marbles after their removal to England who subsequently produced famous work inspired by them.
the assertion that Modern Greeks have "no claim to the stones because you could see from their physiognomy that they were not descended from the men who had carved them," a quote attributed to Auberon Waugh. In nineteenth century Western Europe, Greeks of the Classical period were widely imagined to have been light skinned and blond. This view has been overturned by modern genetic research and is now widely understood as having racist underpinnings.
the assertion that Greece could mount no court case, because Elgin claims to have been granted permission by what was then Greece's ruling government and a legal principle of limitation would apply, i.e., the ability to pursue claims expires after a period of time prescribed by law;
The last was tested in the English High Court in May 2005 in relation to Nazi-looted Old Master artworks held at the British Museum, which the Museum's Trustees wished to return to the family of the original owner; the Court found that due to the British Museum Act 1963 these works could not be returned without further legislation. The judge, Mr Justice Morritt, found that the Act, which protects the collections for posterity, could not be overridden by a "moral obligation" to return works, even if they are believed to have been plundered.[108][109] It has been argued, however, that the case was not directly relevant to the Parthenon Marbles, as it was about a transfer of ownership, and not the loan of artefacts for public exhibition overseas, which is provided for in the 1963 Act.

Another argument for keeping the Parthenon Marbles within the UK has been made by J. H. Merryman, Sweitzer Professor of Law at Stanford University and co-operating professor in the Stanford Art Department. He has argued that the Marbles are now established as a significant element of Britain's own cultural history, as "the Elgin Marbles have been in England since 1821 and in that time have become a part of the British cultural heritage." He has also argued that if the Parthenon were actually being restored, there would be a moral argument for returning the Marbles to the temple whence they came, and thus restoring its integrity. The Guardian has written that many among those who support repatriation imply that the marbles would be displayed in their original position on the Parthenon. However, the Greek plan is to transfer them from a museum in London to one in Athens. These arguments are perhaps complicated a little by the completion of the new Acropolis Museum in 2009, where the half not removed by Elgin is now displayed, aligned in orientation and within sight of the Parthenon, with the position of the missing elements clearly marked and space left should they be returned to Athens.

The Trustees of the British Museum make the following statement on the Museum website in response to arguments for the relocation of the Parthenon Marbles to the Acropolis Museum: "The Acropolis Museum allows the Parthenon sculptures that are in Athens to be appreciated against the backdrop of ancient Greek and Athenian history. This display does not alter the Trustees’ view that the sculptures are part of everyone’s shared heritage and transcend cultural boundaries. The Trustees remain convinced that the current division allows different and complementary stories to be told about the surviving sculptures, highlighting their significance for world culture and affirming the universal legacy of ancient Greece."

Public perception of the issue

Popular support for restitution

Outside Greece a campaign for the Return of the Marbles began in 1981 with the formation of the International Organising Committee - Australia - for the Restitution of the Parthenon Marbles, and in 1983 with the formation of the British Committee for the Reunification of the Parthenon Marbles. International organisations such as UNESCO and the International Association for the Reunification of the Parthenon Sculptures, as well as campaign groups such as, Marbles Reunited, and stars of Hollywood, such as George Clooney and Matt Damon, as well as Human Rights activists, lawyers, and the people of the arts, voiced their strong support for the return of the Parthenon Marbles to Greece.

American actor George Clooney voiced his support for the return by the United Kingdom and reunification of the Parthenon Marbles in Greece, during his promotional campaign for his 2014 film The Monuments Men which retells the story of Allied efforts to save important masterpieces of art and other culturally important items before their destruction by Hitler and the Nazis during World War II. His remarks regarding the Marbles reignited the debate in the United Kingdom about their return to their home country. Public polls were also carried out by newspapers in response to Clooney's stance on this matter.

An internet campaign site, in part sponsored by Metaxa, aims to consolidate support for the return of the Parthenon Marbles to the New Acropolis Museum in Athens.

Noted public intellectual Christopher Hitchens had, at numerous times, argued for their repatriation.

In BBC TV Series QI (series 12, episode 7, XL edition), host Stephen Fry provided his support for the return of the Parthenon Marbles while recounting the story of the Greeks giving lead shot to their Ottoman Empire enemies, as the Ottomans were running out of ammunition, in order to prevent damage to the Acropolis. Fry had previously written a blog post along much the same lines in December 2011 entitled "A Modest Proposal", signing off with "It's time we lost our marbles".

Opinion polls

A YouGov poll in 2014 suggested that more British people (37%) supported the marbles' restoration to Greece than opposed it (23%).

In older polls, Ipsos MORI asked in 1998, "If there were a referendum on whether or not the Elgin Marbles should be returned to Greece, how would you vote?" This returned these values from the British general adult population:

40% in favour of returning the marbles to Greece
15% in favour of keeping them at the British Museum
18% would not vote
27% had no opinion

Another opinion poll in 2002 (again carried out by MORI) showed similar results, with 40% of the British public in favour of returning the marbles to Greece, 16% in favour of keeping them within Britain and the remainder either having no opinion or would not vote.When asked how they would vote if a number of conditions were met (including, but not limited to, a long-term loan whereby the British maintained ownership and joint control over maintenance) the number responding in favour of return increased to 56% and those in favour of keeping them dropped to 7%.

Both MORI poll results have been characterised by proponents of the return of the Marbles to Greece as representing a groundswell of public opinion supporting return, since the proportion explicitly supporting return to Greece significantly exceeds the number who are explicitly in favour of keeping the Marbles at the British Museum.




The Parthenon Marbles (Greek: ΓλυπτάτουΠαρθενώνα), also known as the Elgin Marbles (/ˈɛlɡɪn/), are a collection of Classical Greek marble sculptures made under the supervision of the architect and sculptor Phidias and his assistants. They were originally part of the temple of the Parthenon and other buildings on the Acropolis of Athens.

From 1801 to 1812, agents of Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin removed about half of the surviving sculptures of the Parthenon, as well as sculptures from the Propylaea and Erechtheum. The Marbles were transported by sea to Britain. Elgin later claimed to have obtained in 1801 an official decree (a firman) from the Sublime Porte, the central government of the Ottoman Empire which were then the rulers of Greece. This firman has not been found in the Ottoman archives despite its wealth of documents from the same period and its veracity is disputed.The Acropolis Museum displays a proportion of the complete frieze, aligned in orientation and within sight of the Parthenon, with the position of the missing elements clearly marked and space left should they be returned to Athens.

In Britain, the acquisition of the collection was supported by some, while some others, such as Lord Byron, likened the Earl's actions to vandalism or looting. Following a public debate in Parliament and its subsequent exoneration of Elgin, he sold the Marbles to the British government in 1816. They were then passed to the British Museum, where they are now on display in the purpose-built Duveen Gallery.



After gaining its independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1832, the newly-founded Greek state began a series of projects to restore its monuments and retrieve looted art. It has expressed its disapproval of Elgin's removal of the Marbles from the Acropolis and the Parthenon,[19] which is regarded as one of the world's greatest cultural monuments.[20] International efforts to repatriate the Marbles to Greece were intensified in the 1980s by then Greek Minister of Culture Melina Mercouri, and there are now many organisations actively campaigning for the Marbles' return, several united as part of the International Association for the Reunification of the Parthenon Sculptures. The Greek government itself continues to urge the return of the marbles to Athens so as to be unified with the remaining marbles and for the complete Parthenon frieze sequence to be restored, through diplomatic, political and legal means.

In 2014, UNESCO offered to mediate between Greece and the United Kingdom to resolve the dispute, although this was later turned down by the British Museum on the basis that UNESCO works with government bodies, not trustees of museums.



Background
Built in the ancient era, the Parthenon was extensively damaged during the Great Turkish War (1683–1699) against the Republic of Venice. The defending Turks fortified the Acropolis and used the Parthenon as a gunpowder magazine. On 26 September 1687, a Venetian artillery round, fired from the Hill of Philopappus, blew up the magazine, and the building was partly destroyed. The explosion blew out the building's central portion and caused the cella's walls to crumble into rubble. Three of the four walls collapsed, or nearly so, and about three-fifths of the sculptures from the frieze fell.[ About three hundred people were killed in the explosion, which showered marble fragments over a significant area.[28] For the next century and a half, portions of the remaining structure were scavenged for building material and looted of any remaining objects of value.

Acquisition

In November 1798 the Earl of Elgin was appointed as "Ambassador Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of His Britannic Majesty to the Sublime Porte of Selim III, Sultan of Turkey" (Greece was then part of the Ottoman Empire). Before his departure to take up the post he had approached officials of the British government to inquire if they would be interested in employing artists to take casts and drawings of the sculptured portions of the Parthenon. According to Lord Elgin, "the answer of the Government ... was entirely negative."

Lord Elgin decided to carry out the work himself, and employed artists to take casts and drawings under the supervision of the Neapolitan court painter, Giovani Lusieri. According to a Turkish local, marble sculptures that fell were being burned to obtain lime for building. Although his original intention was only to document the sculptures, in 1801 Lord Elgin began to remove material from the Parthenon and its surrounding structures under the supervision of Lusieri. Pieces were also removed from the Erechtheion, the Propylaia, and the Temple of Athena Nike, all inside the Acropolis.

The excavation and removal was completed in 1812 at a personal cost to Elgin of around £70,000. Elgin intended to use the marbles to decorate Broomhall House, his private home near Dunfermline in Scotland, but a costly divorce suit forced him to sell them to settle his debts. Elgin sold the Parthenon Marbles to the British government for less than it cost him to procure them, declining higher offers from other potential buyers, including Napoleon.

The Parthenon Marbles acquired by Elgin include some 21 figures from the statuary from the east and west pediments, 15 of an original 92 metope panels depicting battles between the Lapiths and the Centaurs, as well as 75 meters of the Parthenon Frieze which decorated the horizontal course set above the interior architrave of the temple. As such, they represent more than half of what now remains of the surviving sculptural decoration of the Parthenon.

Elgin's acquisitions also included objects from other buildings on the Athenian Acropolis: a Caryatid from Erechtheum; four slabs from the parapet frieze of the Temple of Athena Nike; and a number of other architectural fragments of the Parthenon, Propylaia, Erechtheum, the Temple of Athene Nike, and the Treasury of Atreus.



Legality of the removal from Athens
The Acropolis was at that time an Ottoman military fort, so Elgin required special permission to enter the site, the Parthenon, and the surrounding buildings. He stated that he had obtained a firman from the Sultan which allowed his artists to access the site, but he was unable to produce the original documentation. However, Elgin presented a document claimed to be an English translation of an Italian copy made at the time. This document is now kept in the British Museum. Its authenticity has been questioned, as it lacked the formalities characterising edicts from the sultan. Vassilis Demetriades, Professor of Turkish Studies at the University of Crete, has argued that "any expert in Ottoman diplomatic language can easily ascertain that the original of the document which has survived was not a firman".The document was recorded in an appendix of an 1816 parliamentary committee report. 'The committee permission' had convened to examine a request by Elgin asking the British government to purchase the Marbles. The report said that the document[35] in the appendix was an accurate translation, in English, of an Ottoman firman dated July 1801. In Elgin's view it amounted to an Ottoman authorisation to remove the marbles. The committee was told that the original document was given to Ottoman officials in Athens in 1801. Researchers have so far failed to locate it despite the fact that firmans, being official decrees by the Sultan, were meticulously recorded as a matter of procedure, and that the Ottoman archives in Istanbul still hold a number of similar documents dating from the same period.

The parliamentary record shows that the Italian copy of the firman was not presented to the committee by Elgin himself but by one of his associates, the clergyman Rev. Philip Hunt. Hunt, who at the time resided in Bedford, was the last witness to appear before the committee and stated that he had in his possession an Italian translation of the Ottoman original. He went on to explain that he had not brought the document, because, upon leaving Bedford, he was not aware that he was to testify as a witness. The English document in the parliamentary report was filed by Hunt, but the committee was not presented with the Italian translation in Hunt's possession. William St. Clair, a contemporary biographer of Lord Elgin, said he possessed Hunt's Italian document and "vouches for the accuracy of the English translation". The committee report states on page 69 "(Signed with a signet.) Seged Abdullah Kaimacan" - however, the document presented to the committee was "an English translation of this purported translation into Italian of the original firman",[36] and had neither signet nor signature on it, a fact corroborated by St. Clair. The 1967 study by British historian William St. Clair, Lord Elgin and the Marbles, stated the sultan did not allow the removal of statues and reliefs from the Parthenon. The study judged a clause authorizing the British to take stones “with old inscriptions and figures” probably meant items in the excavations the site, not the art decorating the temples.



The document allowed Elgin and his team to erect scaffolding so as to make drawings and mouldings in chalk or gypsum, as well as to measure the remains of the ruined buildings and excavate the foundations which may have become covered in the [ghiaja (meaning gravel, debris)]; and "...that when they wish to take away [qualche (meaning 'some' or 'a few')] pieces of stone with old inscriptions or figures thereon, that no opposition be made thereto". The interpretation of these lines has been questioned even by non-restitutionalists, particularly the word qualche, which in modern language should be translated as a few but can also mean any. According to non-restitutionalists, further evidence that the removal of the sculptures by Elgin was approved by the Ottoman authorities is shown by a second firman which was required for the shipping of the marbles from Piraeus.

Many have questioned the legality of Elgin's actions, including the legitimacy of the documentation purportedly authorising them. A study by Professor David Rudenstine of the Benjamin N. Cardozo School of Law concluded that the premise that Elgin obtained legal title to the marbles, which he then transferred to the British government, "is certainly not established and may well be false". Rudenstine's argumentation is partly based on a translation discrepancy he noticed between the surviving Italian document and the English text submitted by Hunt to the parliamentary committee. The text from the committee report reads "We therefore have written this Letter to you, and expedited it by Mr. Philip Hunt, an English Gentleman, Secretary of the aforesaid Ambassador" but according to the St. Clair Italian document the actual wording is "We therefore have written this letter to you and expedited it by N.N.". In Rudenstine's view, this substitution of "Mr. Philip Hunt" with the initials "N.N." can hardly be a simple mistake. He further argues that the document was presented after the committee's insistence that some form of Ottoman written authorisation for the removal of the marbles be provided, a fact known to Hunt by the time he testified. Thus, according to Rudenstine, "Hunt put himself in a position in which he could simultaneously vouch for the authenticity of the document and explain why he alone had a copy of it fifteen years after he surrendered the original to Ottoman officials in Athens". On two earlier occasions, Elgin stated that the Ottomans gave him written permissions more than once, but that he had "retained none of them." Hunt testified on March 13, and one of the questions asked was "Did you ever see any of the written permissions which were granted [to Lord Elgin] for removing the Marbles from the Temple of Minerva?" to which Hunt answered "yes", adding that he possessed an Italian translation of the original firman. Nonetheless, he did not explain why he had retained the translation for 15 years, whereas Elgin, who had testified two weeks earlier, knew nothing about the existence of any such document.



English travel writer Edward Daniel Clarke, an eyewitness, wrote that the Dizdar, the Ottoman fortress commander on the scene, attempted to stop the removal of the metopes but was bribed to allow it to continue. In contrast, John Merryman, Sweitzer Professor of Law at Stanford Law School and also Professor of Art at Stanford University, putting aside the discrepancy presented by Rudenstine, argues that since the Ottomans had controlled Athens since 1460, their claims to the artefacts were legal and recognisable. Sultan Selim III was grateful to the British for repelling Napoleonic expansion, and unlike his ancestor Mehmet II, the Parthenon marbles had no sentimental value to him. Further, that written permission exists in the form of the firman, which is the most formal kind of permission available from that government, and that Elgin had further permission to export the marbles, legalises his (and therefore the British Museum's) claim to the Marbles. He does note, though, that the clause concerning the extent of Ottoman authorisation to remove the marbles "is at best ambiguous", adding that the document "provides slender authority for the massive removals from the Parthenon ... The reference to 'taking away any pieces of stone' seems incidental, intended to apply to objects found while excavating. That was certainly the interpretation privately placed on the firman by several of the Elgin party, including Lady Elgin. Publicly, however, a different attitude was taken, and the work of dismantling the sculptures on the Parthenon and packing them for shipment to England began in earnest. In the process, Elgin's party damaged the structure, leaving the Parthenon not only denuded of its sculptures but further ruined by the process of removal. It is certainly arguable that Elgin exceeded the authority granted in the firman in both respects".

The issue of firmans of this nature, along with universally required bribes, was not unusual at this time: In 1801 for example, Edward Clarke and his assistant John Marten Cripps, obtained an authorisation from the governor of Athens for the removal of a statue of the goddess Demeter which was at Eleusis, with the intervention of Italian artist Giovanni Battista Lusieri who was Lord Elgin's assistant at the time. Prior to Clarke, the statue had been discovered in 1676 by the traveller George Wheler, and since then several ambassadors had submitted unsuccessful applications for its removal, but Clarke had been the one to remove the statue by force,[48] after bribing the waiwode of Athens and obtaining a firman, despite the objections and a riot, of the local population who unofficially, and against the traditions of the iconoclastic Church, worshiped the statue as the uncanonised Saint Demetra (Greek: ΑγίαΔήμητρα). The people would adorn the statue with garlands,[48] and believed that the goddess was able to bring fertility to their fields and that the removal of the statue would cause that benefit to disappear. Clarke also removed other marbles from Greece such as a statue of Pan, a figure of Eros, a comic mask, various reliefs and funerary steles, amongst others. Clarke donated these to the University of Cambridge and subsequently in 1803 the statue of Demeter was displayed at the university library. The collection was later moved to the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge where it formed one of the two main collections of the institution.



Contemporary reaction

Contemporary museum director in the Louvre had no doubt around the legality of the acquisition of Lord Elgin. During the art restitutions of post-napoleonic France to other European States, Vivant Denon, then director of former Musee Napoleon then Louvre, wrote in a private letter to the French ambassador Talleyrand who was then engaged in the Congress of Vienna: "If we yield to the claims (for art restitution) of Holland and Belgium, we deprive the Museum of one of its greatest assets, that of having a series of excellent colorists... Russia is not hostile, Austria has had everything returned, Prussia has a restoration more complete.... There remains only England, who has in truth nothing to claim, but who, since she has just bought the bas-reliefs of which Lord Elgin plundered the Temple at Athens, now thinks she can become a rival of the Museum [Louvre], and wants to deplete this Museum in order to collect the remains for her" (Denon to Talleyrand, quoted in Saunier, p. 114; Muintz, in Nouvelle Rev., CVII, 2OI). Vivant Denon uses clearly the verb "plunder" in French.


A portrait depicting the Parthenon Marbles in a temporary Elgin Room at the British Museum surrounded by museum staff, a trustee and visitors, 1819
When the marbles were shipped to England, they were "an instant success among many"[9] who admired the sculptures and supported their arrival, but both the sculptures and Elgin also received criticism from detractors. Lord Elgin began negotiations for the sale of the collection to the British Museum in 1811, but negotiations failed despite the support of British artists after the government showed little interest. Many Britons opposed purchase of the statues because they were in bad condition and therefore did not display the "ideal beauty" found in other sculpture collections. The following years marked an increased interest in classical Greece, and in June 1816, after parliamentary hearings, the House of Commons offered £35,000 in exchange for the sculptures. Even at the time the acquisition inspired much debate, although it was supported by "many persuasive calls" for the purchase.

Lord Byron strongly objected to the removal of the marbles from Greece, denouncing Elgin as a vandal. His point of view about the removal of the Marbles from Athens is also mentioned in his narrative poem Childe Harold's Pilgrimage, published in 1812, which itself was largely inspired by Byron's travels around the Mediterranean and the Aegean Sea between 1809 and 1811:

Dull is the eye that will not weep to see
Thy walls defaced, thy mouldering shrines removed
By British hands, which it had best behoved
To guard those relics ne'er to be restored.
Curst be the hour when from their isle they roved,
And once again thy hapless bosom gored,
And snatch'd thy shrinking gods to northern climes abhorred!

Byron was not the only one to protest against the removal at the time. Sir John Newport said:

The Honourable Lord has taken advantage of the most unjustifiable means and has committed the most flagrant pillages. It was, it seems, fatal that a representative of our country loot those objects that the Turks and other barbarians had considered sacred.

Edward Daniel Clarke witnessed the removal of the metopes and called the action a "spoliation", writing that "thus the form of the temple has sustained a greater injury than it had already experienced from the Venetian artillery," and that "neither was there a workman employed in the undertaking ... who did not express his concern that such havoc should be deemed necessary, after moulds and casts had been already made of all the sculpture which it was designed to remove." When Sir Francis Ronalds visited Athens and Giovanni Battista Lusieri in 1820, he wrote that "If Lord Elgin had possessed real taste in lieu of a covetous spirit he would have done just the reverse of what he has, he would have removed the rubbish and left the antiquities."

A parliamentary committee investigating the situation concluded that the monuments were best given "asylum" under a "free government" such as the British one. In 1810, Elgin published a defence of his actions, but the subject remained controversial. A public debate in Parliament followed Elgin's publication, and Parliament again exonerated Elgin's actions, eventually deciding to purchase the marbles for the "British nation" in 1816 by a vote of 82–30. Among the supporters of Elgin was the painter Benjamin Robert Haydon. He was followed by Felicia Hemans in her Modern Greece: A Poem (1817), who there took direct issue with Byron, defying him with the question

And who may grieve that, rescued from their hands,
Spoilers of excellence and foes of art,
Thy relics, Athens! borne to other lands
Claim homage still to thee from every heart?

and quoting Haydon and other defenders of their accessability in her notes.[56] John Keats visited the British Museum in 1817 and recording his feelings in the sonnet titled "On Seeing the Elgin Marbles. William Wordsworth also viewed the marbles and commented favourably on their aesthetics in a letter to Haydon.

Following the exhibition of the marbles in the British Museum, they were later displayed in the specially constructed Elgin Saloon  until the Duveen Gallery was completed in 1939. The crowds packing in to view them set attendance records for the museum.

Damage
Morosini

East Pediment
Prior damage to the marbles was sustained during successive wars, and it was during such conflicts that the Parthenon and its artwork sustained, by far, the most extensive damage. In particular, an explosion ignited by Venetian gun and cannon-fire bombardment in 1687, whilst the Parthenon was used as a munitions store during the Ottoman rule, destroyed or damaged many pieces of Parthenon art, including some of that later taken by Lord Elgin. It was this explosion that sent the marble roof, most of the cella walls, 14 columns from the north and south peristyles, and carved metopes and frieze blocks flying and crashing to the ground, destroying much of the artwork. Further damage to the Parthenon's artwork occurred when the Venetian general Francesco Morosini looted the site of its larger sculptures. The tackle he was using to remove the sculptures proved to be faulty and snapped, dropping an over-life-sized sculpture of Poseidon and the horses of Athena's chariot from the west pediment on to the rock of the Acropolis 40 feet (12 m) below.

War of Independence
The Erechtheion was used as a munitions store by the Ottomans during the Greek War of Independence (1821–1833) which ended the 355-year Ottoman rule of Athens. The Acropolis was besieged twice during the war, first by the Greeks in 1821–22 and then by the Ottoman forces in 1826–27. During the first siege the besieged Ottoman forces attempted to melt the lead in the columns to cast bullets, even prompting the Greeks to offer their own bullets to the Ottomans in order to minimize damage.

Elgin
Elgin consulted with Italian sculptor Antonio Canova in 1803 about how best to restore the marbles. Canova was considered by some to be the world's best sculptural restorer of the time; Elgin wrote that Canova declined to work on the marbles for fear of damaging them further.

To facilitate transport by Elgin, the columns' capitals and many metopes and frieze slabs were either hacked off the main structure or sawn and sliced into smaller sections, causing irreparable damage to the Parthenon itself.[62][63] One shipload of marbles on board the British brig Mentor was caught in a storm off Cape Matapan in southern Greece and sank near Kythera, but was salvaged at the Earl's personal expense; it took two years to bring them to the surface.

British Museum

The artefacts held in London suffered from 19th-century pollution which persisted until the mid-20th century and have suffered irreparable damage by previous cleaning methods employed by British Museum staff.

As early as 1838, scientist Michael Faraday was asked to provide a solution to the problem of the deteriorating surface of the marbles. The outcome is described in the following excerpt from the letter he sent to Henry Milman, a commissioner for the National Gallery.

The marbles generally were very dirty ... from a deposit of dust and soot. ... I found the body of the marble beneath the surface white. ... The application of water, applied by a sponge or soft cloth, removed the coarsest dirt. ... The use of fine, gritty powder, with the water and rubbing, though it more quickly removed the upper dirt, left much embedded in the cellular surface of the marble. I then applied alkalies, both carbonated and caustic; these quickened the loosening of the surface dirt ... but they fell far short of restoring the marble surface to its proper hue and state of cleanliness. I finally used dilute nitric acid, and even this failed. ... The examination has made me despair of the possibility of presenting the marbles in the British Museum in that state of purity and whiteness which they originally possessed.

A further effort to clean the marbles ensued in 1858. Richard Westmacott, who was appointed superintendent of the "moving and cleaning the sculptures" in 1857, in a letter approved by the British Museum Standing Committee on 13 March 1858 concluded

I think it my duty to say that some of the works are much damaged by ignorant or careless moulding – with oil and lard – and by restorations in wax and resin. These mistakes have caused discolouration. I shall endeavour to remedy this without, however, having recourse to any composition that can injure the surface of the marble.

Yet another effort to clean the marbles occurred in 1937–38. This time the incentive was provided by the construction of a new Gallery to house the collection. The Pentelic marble mined from Mount Pentelicus north of Athens, from which the sculptures are made, naturally acquires a tan colour similar to honey when exposed to air; this colouring is often known as the marble's "patina" but Lord Duveen, who financed the whole undertaking, acting under the misconception that the marbles were originally white probably arranged for the team of masons working in the project to remove discolouration from some of the sculptures. The tools used were seven scrapers, one chisel and a piece of carborundum stone. They are now deposited in the British Museum's Department of Preservation. The cleaning process scraped away some of the detailed tone of many carvings. According to Harold Plenderleith, the surface removed in some places may have been as much as one-tenth of an inch (2.5 mm).

The British Museum has responded with the statement that "mistakes were made at that time." On another occasion it was said that "the damage had been exaggerated for political reasons" and that "the Greeks were guilty of excessive cleaning of the marbles before they were brought to Britain." During the international symposium on the cleaning of the marbles, organised by the British Museum in 1999, curator Ian Jenkins, deputy keeper of Greek and Roman antiquities, remarked that "The British Museum is not infallible, it is not the Pope. Its history has been a series of good intentions marred by the occasional cock-up, and the 1930s cleaning was such a cock-up". Nonetheless, he claimed that the prime cause for the damage inflicted upon the marbles was the 2000-year-long weathering on the Acropolis.

American archeologist Dorothy King, in a newspaper article, wrote that techniques similar to the ones used in 1937–38 were applied by Greeks as well in more recent decades than the British, and maintained that Italians still find them acceptable. The British Museum said that a similar cleaning of the Temple of Hephaestus in the Athenian Agora was carried out by the conservation team of the American School of Classical Studies at Athens in 1953 using steel chisels and brass wire. According to the Greek ministry of Culture, the cleaning was carefully limited to surface salt crusts. The 1953 American report concluded that the techniques applied were aimed at removing the black deposit formed by rain-water and "brought out the high technical quality of the carving" revealing at the same time "a few surviving particles of colour".

Documents released by the British Museum under the Freedom of Information Act revealed that a series of minor accidents, thefts and acts of vandalism by visitors have inflicted further damage to the sculptures. This includes an incident in 1961 when two schoolboys knocked off a part of a centaur's leg. In June 1981, a west pediment figure was slightly chipped by a falling glass skylight, and in 1966 four shallow lines were scratched on the back of one of the figures by vandals. In 1970 letters were scratched on to the upper right thigh of another figure. Four years later, the dowel hole in a centaur's hoof was damaged by thieves trying to extract pieces of lead.

Athens

Air pollution and acid rain have damaged the marble and stonework. The last remaining slabs from the western section of the Parthenon frieze were removed from the monument in 1993 for fear of further damage. They have now been transported to the New Acropolis Museum.

Until cleaning of the remaining marbles was completed in 2005, black crusts and coatings were present on the marble surface. The laser technique applied on the 14 slabs that Elgin did not remove revealed a surprising array of original details, such as the original chisel marks and the veins on the horses' bellies. Similar features in the British Museum collection have been scraped and scrubbed with chisels to make the marbles look white. Between January 20 and the end of March 2008, 4200 items (sculptures, inscriptions small terracotta objects), including some 80 artefacts dismantled from the monuments in recent years, were removed from the old museum on the Acropolis to the new Parthenon Museum. Natural disasters have also affected the Parthenon. In 1981, an earthquake caused damage to the east façade.

Since 1975, Greece has been restoring the Acropolis. This restoration has included replacing the thousands of rusting iron clamps and supports that had previously been used, with non-corrosive titanium rods; removing surviving artwork from the building into storage and subsequently into a new museum built specifically for the display of the Parthenon art; and replacing the artwork with high-quality replicas. This process has come under fire from some groups as some buildings have been completely dismantled, including the dismantling of the Temple of Athena Nike and for the unsightly nature of the site due to the necessary cranes and scaffolding. But the hope is to restore the site to some of its former glory, which may take another 20 years and 70 million euros, though the prospect of the Acropolis being "able to withstand the most extreme weather conditions – earthquakes" is "little consolation to the tourists visiting the Acropolis" according to The Guardian. Under continuous international pressure, Directors of the British Museum have not ruled out agreeing to what they call a "temporary" loan to the new museum, but state that it would be under the condition of Greece acknowledging the British Museum's claims to ownership.

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Alden Shoe Co. lawsuits allege former CFO funneled millions in embezzled money to Bianca de la Garza

By Janelle Nanos Globe Staff,Updated June 15, 2020, 1:36 p.m.

The local television star and fashion influencer Bianca de la Garza’s Lucky Gal Productions may have seen its luck run out.

Alden Shoe Co., a family-owned footwear maker in Middleborough, has filed a civil lawsuit in Suffolk Superior Court alleging that its former vice president and chief financial officer, Richard Hajjar, embezzled $27 million from the company and funneled $15 million of it into the TV and fashion businesses of de la Garza, a former news anchor who runs a beauty business under the name BDG Enterprises. Bianca, Lucky Gal, and BDG were all named as defendants in the lawsuit.

The company also sued Hajjar in Plymouth Superior Court to recover the $27 million, allegedly stolen from 2011 to 2019.

According to the court filings, Hajjar bought a $1.1 million New York City co-op apartment for de la Garza using money stolen from the company and purchased other extravagant gifts, including a Mercedes-Benz, diamond jewelry, and designer handbags and clothing. The court has approved the company’s seizure of Hajjar’s assets held in seven banks and financial services companies, excluding his pension.

No criminal charges have been filed.

De la Garza, Hajjar, and attorneys for Alden Shoe had not as of Monday evening responded to e-mails and phone messages from the Globe seeking comment.

De la Garza, a Milton native and Emerson College graduate, was a longtime host and news anchor at WCVB-TV (Channel 5) before starting her own media company in 2014.

The court documents indicate that Alden, a New England footwear stalwart founded in 1884, hired Hajjar in 1987. According to the filings, Hajjar’s father had been the CPA for the father of the company’s current president, Arthur S. Tarlow Jr., and Hajjar’s two brothers worked for the company. Trust ran deep between the two families.

Hajjar, a “trusted advisor” to the Tarlow family, eventually rose to vice president and corporate secretary, a member of the board of directors, and chief financial officer. Until he was dismissed in 2019, Hajjar was handling “most day-to-day financial matters at Alden," a filing states.

According to the documents, Hajjar’s relationship with de la Garza began around 2012, while she was an anchor at WCVB. The two became friends and vacationed together, and Hajjar lavished gifts on her worth “hundreds of thousands of dollars,” according to the documents.

Only in October 2019 did the company learn that Hajjar’s opulent offerings had been paid for with money embezzled from the company’s bank accounts, a filing states. After a forensic accounting investigation, the company concluded that Hajjar had stolen $27 million since 2011.

The alleged theft came to light after Tarlow, the company’s president, approached Hajjar about moving funds from a company bank account into family trusts. At the time, the company account should have had more than $10 million in it, the filings state, but Hajjar dodged the request and “after repeated delays and follow-up requests” assured Tarlow the funds would be wired between the accounts.

Then Hajjar stopped showing up for work. He told Tarlow, by text message, that he wasn’t feeling well.

When the wire transfer didn’t go through, Hajjar allegedly stopped responding to Tarlow’s texts.

Tarlow immediately went to his Santander bank branch, where he learned $10 million in retained earnings was missing from the account, the filing alleges.

Soon after, Tarlow realized that Hajjar had, without his knowledge or authorization, “opened and completely drawn down a line of credit” worth $8 million at Bank of America, the documents say.

In all, the forensic review found that Hajjar took $27 million from Alden’s bank accounts, including $3.7 million that he took by writing out checks to himself, the filings allege.

In several instances, Hajjar allegedly transferred tens of millions of dollars from the company’s active bank accounts into another trust account that the company owned, but which was dormant. Hajjar had himself named a trustee of that account, then used it to transfer at least $24 million, using those funds to secretly “write more checks to himself and pay exorbitant personal credit card bills,” according to the court documents.

The filing also alleges that $15 million was funneled through that dormant account to de la Garza and her company Lucky Gal Productions, including over $1.6 million transferred directly to de la Garza’s personal bank accounts from 2015 to 2019. And in 2016, Hajjar used stolen funds to pay for both the deposit and closing costs on de la Garza’s New York City co-op, court documents allege.

Hajjar’s company-funded gifts to de la Garza, the filings state, included “a Mercedes-Benz, a $60,000 diamond bracelet, a $158,000 diamond ring, diamond earrings, designer handbags, designer clothing, and other luxury goods.”

He also gave his personal American Express card to a personal shopper at Neiman Marcus, where de la Garza “freely purchased” hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of merchandise each month, the filing alleges, and Hajjar paid off those credit card bills using money from Alden.

But Hajjar didn’t stop at lavishing gifts on de la Garza; he also allegedly transferred at least $11.5 million directly into the bank accounts for Lucky Gal Productions.

The couple signed paperwork establishing a “Production Financing Agreement” in 2014, the year de la Garza left her job as an anchor at WCVB’s “EyeOpener." According to the agreement, Hajjar committed to paying at least $3.3 million for the production of a new series but “when or even whether” he could recover the money was up to the “sole control and discretion of Lucky Gal,” the filing states.

In a 2018 interview in Forbes, de la Garza discussed her decision to leave the anchor desk and start Lucky Gal Productions. “So, I went ahead, and I started my company . . . and I launched a show," she said. "I raised all the money, got all the distribution.”

De la Garza’s late-night show, “Bianca Unanchored,” launched in January 2015, eventually got national distribution, airing on seven CBS-owned stations in major markets such as Los Angeles, Philadelphia, Dallas, and Baltimore. The show went off the air in January of the following year.

The filing alleges that Lucky Gal had “few or no assets” at the time the production agreement was signed and “did not generate a profit" during the airing of de la Garza’s series.

“Mr. Hajjar has never recouped or recovered any of the money that he transferred to Lucky Gal,” the court documents state, and alleges that “[s]ince its foundation, Lucky Gal has never been profitable.”

But Hajjar committed additional millions of dollars to help keep Lucky Gal productions afloat and, in all, transferred at least $12.3 million to Lucky Gal and its beneficiaries from 2015 to 2019, the documents state.

Attorneys for the footwear company filed a letter in November demanding that de la Garza immediately return all of the allegedly misappropriated funds. They estimated she had received more than $2.7 million in 2019 alone, including a $230,000 wire transfer in October, the month Hajjar stopped responding to Tarlow’s texts.

According to the court filings, de la Garza’s attorney responded to the letter, saying that she would place all remaining funds from Hajjar into a client trust account. But she has yet to return any funds.

In the suit against Hajjar, Alden’s attorneys said he had expressed a willingness to cooperate and had “never denied” that he had stolen millions. But Hajjar has returned less than $3 million in assets to the company, transferring back $214,000 in cash, approximately $20,000 in jewelry, $195,000 through the sale of gold coins, and $175,000 from the sale of vehicles, according to the filings. And Hajjar is willing to pay back an additional “$100,000 from the further sale of gold coins."

Mark Shanahan and John Ellement of the Globe staff contributed reporting.



Richard Hajjar and Bianca de la Garza


Bianca de la Garza is firing back — at the media

Facing a $15 million lawsuit, the former WCVB anchor has hired a lawyer known for representing President Donald Trump and threatening to sue news outlets.

By Nik DeCosta-Klipa, Boston.com Staff
updated on June 19, 2020

Facing a multi-million dollar lawsuit, Bianca de la Garza is getting some help from a high-powered lawyer known for representing President Donald Trump and suing the website Gawker out of existence.

Charles Harder, the well-known media lawyer representing de la Garza and her companies, sent letters Wednesday threatening to sue at least two media outlets for purportedly misstating aspects of the lawsuit against the former WCVB anchor.

Alden Shoe Company is suing de la Garza for $15 million that lawyers say was stolen from the longtime Massachusetts-based company by its former chief financial officer, who was friends with and developed a romantic interest in the TV host. The civil lawsuit — which says much of the money was used to lavish de la Garza with gifts and fund her short-lived late-night show — was filed earlier this month in Suffolk County Superior Court and first reported on publicly this week.

Harder’s letters do not address the central premise of the lawsuit.

However, they do take issue with several “false and defamatory statements” in at least two articles about the suit and demand a correction and apology from the San Francisco Chronicle and Esquire, “among other publications,” according to an email from Harder late Wednesday night. Boston Globe Media Partners, which includes Boston.com, received a similar letter regarding an article that ran in The Boston Globe.

In the letters, Harder takes issues with statements — both in an Associated Press article published by the Chronicle and a short Esquire blog post — that suggest de la Garza engaged in criminal embezzlement.

While the lawsuit says that de la Garza ““knew or should have known” that the funds she received from former Alden CFO Richard Hajjar were stolen, no criminal charges have been filed. Alden is also separately suing Hajjar to recover $27 million in allegedly stolen funds in Plymouth County Superior Court.

Harder’s letter to the Esquire also disputes the notion that de la Garza was “in a relationship” with Hajjar, as was written in the post.

“They are not and have never been in a romantic relationship of any kind,” Harder wrote.

And the letter disputes the notion that Hajjar “funneled” any of the $15 million into de la Garza’s beauty product business, BDG Beauty.

“BDG received no such funds,” Harder wrote.

According to the lawsuit, most of the money went to de la Garza’s production company, Lucky Gal. However, the lawsuit also says that she “commingled” the assets of Lucky Gal with her personal assets and other business pursuits, including BDG Beauty. As of Thursday afternoon, Harder had yet to respond to an email asking whether his team disputes the latter claim.

He also did not immediately say how many “other publications” were sent letters Wednesday, which threaten potential legal action if the “complete fabrications” are not corrected by Thursday night. It also demanded an apology for each of the highlighted statements within the same 24-hour timespan.

“Failure to do so will leave our clients with no alternative but to consider instituting immediate legal proceedings against you,” the letters say. “Should that occur, my clients would pursue all available causes of action and seek all available legal remedies to the maximum extent permitted by law.”

Representatives for Hearst, which owns both the Chronicle and Esquire, did not immediately respond to requests for comment.

Harder, whose office is based in Los Angeles, has made a name for himself threatening to sue media outlets — and, at times, doing so successfully. In 2016, he won a high-profile invasion of privacy case that led to the bankruptcy of Gawker Media and the demise of its flagship website. Harder has since represented Trump and his campaign in a variety of lawsuits, both real and threatened, against major news organizations — as well as against the porn actress known as Stormy Daniels, who says she had an affair with the president.


According to public records, the Trump campaign has paid Harder’s firm nearly $2.9 million this election cycle





HISTORY OF ALDEN SHOE COMPANY

The Alden Shoe Company was founded in 1884 by Charles H. Alden in Middleborough, Massachusetts.

It is difficult to imagine just how active and important the shoe industry was in Massachusetts so long ago. Early New England shoemaking was a trade based upon one craftsman making a pair a day in one room cottages (called "ten footers"). Beginning in 1850 a series of inventions led to mechanized stitching and lasting operations and the birth of New England shoe industry followed rapidly. The productivity gains over the traditional shoemaker were on the order of 500 - 700%, yet the new methods also led to an extraordinary improvement in both quality and consistency. The explosive growth of the shoe industry in eastern Massachusetts at the turn of the century was impressive. Numerous companies were being started, and demand soared as product made its way west and south on newly expanded rail routes. Charles Alden's factory prospered, adding children's shoes to their offering of men's shoes and custom boots.

By 1933, at Charles Alden's retirement, operations moved to Brockton, Massachusetts and joined with the Old Colony factory. The Great Depression took a toll on countless shoe companies in New England. Although production demand increased during World War II, by the late 40's renewed consumer demand had fueled the search for manufacturing regions offering lower labor costs. Over the remainder of the century attrition would take hold as manufacturers looked farther and farther away in search of low cost labor and materials to meet the insatiable demand in the U.S.A. for low cost, mass-market consumer footwear.   

Most of the companies who remained in New England could not compete in the demanding post-war economy. Yet Alden prospered by relying not on lower quality mass-markets but on high quality dress shoes, and excelling in specialties such as orthopedic and medical footwear. It was a period of growth and intensive development at Alden, especially in the design of comfortable, orthopedically correct lasts. In 1970 a new factory was constructed in Middleborough, Massachusetts where production continues today.

 Alden is now the only original New England shoe and bootmaker remaining of the hundreds who began so long ago. Still a family owned business, still carrying forward a tradition of quality genuine-welted shoemaking that is exceptional in every way.







Experts call for regulation after latest botched art restoration in Spain

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Original painting and two travesties
Bartolomé Esteban Murillo’s original work (left) and two attempts at restoring it.



Botched restoration of an Elias Garcia Martinez fresco on the walls of the Santuario de Misericordia de Borja church in Zaragoza, Spain. Photograph: Centro de Estudios Borjanos/EPA

Experts call for regulation after latest botched art restoration in Spain

Immaculate Conception painting by Murillo reportedly cleaned by furniture restorer

Sam Jones in Madrid
@swajones
Published onMon 22 Jun 2020 19.30 BST

Conservation experts in Spain have called for a tightening of the laws covering restoration work after a copy of a famous painting by the baroque artist Bartolomé Esteban Murillo became the latest in a long line of artworks to suffer a damaging and disfiguring repair.

A private art collector in Valencia was reportedly charged €1,200 by a furniture restorer to have the picture of the Immaculate Conception cleaned. However, the job did not go as planned and the face of the Virgin Mary was left unrecognisable despite two attempts to restore it to its original state.

The case has inevitably resulted in comparisons with the infamous “Monkey Christ” incident eight years ago, when a devout parishioner’s attempt to restore a painting of the scourged Christ on the wall of a church on the outskirts of the north-eastern Spanish town of Borja made headlines around the world.

Parallels have also been drawn with the botched restoration of a 16th-century polychrome statue of Saint George and the dragon in northern Spain that left the warrior saint resembling Tintin or a Playmobil figure.

Fernando Carrera, a professor at the Galician School for the Conservation and Restoration of Cultural Heritage, said such cases highlighted the need for work to be carried out only by properly trained restorers.

“I don’t think this guy – or these people – should be referred to as restorers,” Carrera told the Guardian. “Let’s be honest: they’re bodgers who botch things up. They destroy things.”

Carrera, a former president of Spain’s Professional Association of Restorers and Conservators (Acre), said the law currently allowed people to engage in restoration projects even if they lacked the necessary skills. “Can you imagine just anyone being allowed to operate on other people? Or someone being allowed to sell medicine without a pharmacist’s licence? Or someone who’s not an architect being allowed to put up a building?”

While restorers were “far less important than doctors”, he added, the sector sill needed to be strictly regulated for the sake of Spain’s cultural history. “We see this kind of thing time and time again and yet it keeps on happening.

“Paradoxically, it shows just how important professional restorers are. We need to invest in our heritage, but even before we talk about money, we need to make sure that the people who undertake this kind of work have been trained in it.”

María Borja, one of Acre’s vice-presidents, also said incidents such as the Murillo mishap were “unfortunately far more common than you might think”. Speaking to Europa Press, which broke news of the Murillo repair, she added: “We only find out about them when people report them to the press or on social media, but there are numerous situation when works are undertaken by people who aren’t trained.”

Non-professional interventions, Borja added, “mean that artworks suffer and the damage can be irreversible”.

Carrera said Spain had a huge amount of cultural and historical heritage because of all the different groups that have passed through the country over the centuries, leaving behind their marks and monuments.

Another part of the problem, he added, was that “some politicians just don’t give a toss about heritage”, meaning that Spain did not have the financial resources to safeguard all the treasures of its past. “We need to focus society’s attention on this so that it chooses representatives who put heritage on the agenda,” he said.

“It doesn’t have to be at the very top because it’s obviously not like healthcare or employment – there are many more important things. But this is our history.”

Luxury Retailer Paul Stuart Reopens Boutiques in Three Cities / History of Paul Stuart / VIDEO:Ralph Auriemma presents Phineas Cole Sahara Collection

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Luxury Retailer Paul Stuart Reopens Boutiques in Three Cities

NEW YORK, June 22, 2020 /PRNewswire-PRWeb/ -- Known for its outstanding tailored clothing and sportswear collections for men and women, Paul Stuart is thrilled to announce the reopening of their retail stores in New York, Washington, D.C., and Chicago.

Closed since March due to COVID - 19, the stores and everything inside of them have been completely sanitized in preparation for the store's reopening. Paul Stuart, committed to the highest standards of cleanliness and disinfection, will have protective materials available to all customers who visit our pristine stores. While the doors are open, sales personnel will continue to assist shoppers who are not able to visit in person with phone orders, storefront pickup, free shipping, and hand delivery to a customer's address.

Paulette Garafalo, CEO of Paul Stuart says, "We couldn't be happier to make this long-awaited announcement. After closing our stores in March, we are thrilled to finally be welcoming our many customers back with new summer styles for men and women that we are confident will inspire. Paul Stuart has emerged from this crisis with a renewed mission to provide the ultimate in luxury clothing and service to consumers both in person and on our eCommerce website."

For summer, Paul Stuart has everything a well-dressed gentleman needs for his travels from the boardroom to the beach. The customLAB offers extraordinary Made to Measure tailored clothing, shirts & ties in a new presentation boutique on the main floor of the New York store. For women, Paul Stuart is excited to announce the launch of the Paul Stuart Advance collection exclusively in the New York store. New styles include Italian silk skirts and blouses, lightweight wool sweaters, and a new Moto style leather jacket. Men's footwear this season completes the look with elegant suede espadrilles, classic bucks, and traditional loafers.

Paul Stuart is one of the last remaining clothing retailers of its kind and has an important position in the history of American fashion. Over the last 80 years of its existence, the company has survived many difficulties in our nation's history including wars and financial disruptions. As the company looks ahead to the future, they are more confident than ever that with their talented team of designers and their loyal customers, the brand will endure and thrive. Garafalo says, "We look forward once again, to welcoming everyone back to Paul Stuart."

About Paul Stuart:
Headquartered in New York City, Paul Stuart, Inc. was founded by Ralph Ostrove and named for his son Paul Stuart Ostrove. The store has remained in its original location since opening in 1938. The company designs exclusive collections of men's and women's tailored clothing, sportswear, footwear, and accessories.

Additional Paul Stuart locations can be found in Chicago on East Oak Street and in Washington, D.C.'s CityCenter. The company operates additional stores in more than 50 locations throughout Japan. Paul Stuart is privately held by Mitsui & Co., LTD company of Japan.

SOURCE Paul Stuart




Paul Stuart is a men's and women's clothing brand founded in 1938 in New York City by haberdasher Ralph Ostrove, who named the company after his son, Paul Stuart Ostrove. The company has four standalone boutiques in the US, and two in Japan. Since 2012 it has been owned by Mitsui. The Paul Stuart logo is Dink Stover sitting on the Yale fence. Paul Stuart has been described as a blend of “Savile Row, Connecticut living and the concrete canyons of New York.” Its creative director is Ralph Auriemma.

History
The company was helmed by the legendary merchant and CEO Clifford Grodd from 1958 until his death in 2010. The retailer remained a privately-held family business until December 2012, when it was sold to its long-time Japanese partners, Mitsui.

In fall 2007, Paul Stuart launched its Phineas Cole range, which is clothing with a slimmer silhouette. Paulette Garafalo, formerly of Brooks Brothers and Hickey Freeman, became CEO of Paul Stuart on June 14, 2016, marking the first time someone unrelated to the Ostrove family led the company. In 2019 the company began offering a lower-priced made-to-measure service branded as customLAB, and a luxury MTM jeans service branded as denimBAR. In 2019 the company celebrated the redesign of its omnichannel e-commerce website with home delivery via vintage Packard automobile.



September 3, 1981 NEW YORK TIMES

Ralph Ostrove, founder and chairman of the board of Paul Stuart Inc., the men's clothing store at Madison Avenue and 45th Street, died Tuesday at North Shore University Hospital in Manhasset, L.I., after a brief illness. He was 83 years old and lived in Flushing, Queens.

As the son of a leading retailer of men's clothing in New York, he made the Paul Stuart store one of the city's most popular outlets for men's clothing in what is regarded as the subdued classic or understated traditional style.

Mr. Ostrove was the son of Harry Ostrove, who founded the Broadstreet's chain of stores, which were discontinued several years ago. Ralph Ostrove, who eventually became president of Broadstreet's, left the company in 1937. In 1938 he founded Paul Stuart Inc., named for his son, Paul Stuart Ostrove, who is now vice president of the company.

In addition to his son, who lives in Roslyn, L.I., Mr. Ostrove is survived by his wife, Jean; a daughter, Barbara Grodd of Rye, N.Y.; a sister, Ruth Meltsner of Flushing, and five grandchildren.




Cliff Grodd, Paul Stuart Legend, Dies of Cancer

Clifford Grodd, the driving force and ceo of Paul Stuart, died after a long battle with cancer.

By Jean E. Palmieri and David Lipke and Brenner Thomas on May 26, 2010

Clifford Grodd, the driving force and chief executive officer of Paul Stuart who ran the upscale specialty store for nearly 60 years, died Tuesday at his New York City home after a long battle with cancer. He was 86.

Due to his illness, Grodd, a men’s wear icon and top-notch merchant, had been unable to come to the store for the past 18 months, but nevertheless called in several times a day to check on the business.

This story first appeared in the May 26, 2010 issue of WWD.

In his honor, the store will be closed Thursday, the day memorial services are scheduled to be held at 1:30 p.m. at the Frank E. Campbell Funeral Home at Madison Avenue and 81st Street in Manhattan.

“We will close for the day in respect for his memory and great contribution to the industry,” said Sandy Neiman, Paul Stuart’s director of marketing.

Born in New Haven, Conn., and educated at the University of Connecticut, Grodd served as an Air Force gunner during World War II and was shot down over Hungary, captured and put into solitary confinement by the Germans. At the end of the war, he was awarded a Purple Heart.

Paul Stuart, a 60,000-square-foot fixture on Madison Avenue and 45th Street, was founded by Ralph Ostrove and his cousin Norman in 1938. Ralph Ostrove named the store after his son, Paul Stuart Ostrove. Grodd, who had completed an executive training program at the G. Fox department store in Hartford, Conn., joined Paul Stuart circa 1951 after marrying Ostrove’s daughter, Barbara.

Ostrove was in declining health and wanted to retire, so he asked Grodd to buy out his share of the company, which he did. The Paul Stuart logo features a fictional character sitting on a fence at Yale, according to Grodd’s account.

Grodd once described his aesthetic to DNR, WWD’s former sibling publication, this way: “We’ve constantly striven to be as upscale as possible within the milieu of our particular type of clothing, which is quite cosmopolitan in image. It’s still soft and not exaggerated, easy to wear, hopefully subtle, understated and flattering.”

Paul Stuart became known for its adherence to a soft shoulder look in tailoring. The company claimed to be the first American retailer to bring side vents to the States, as well as the three-button suit.

All of the merchandise at Paul Stuart bears the retailer’s brand. The company designs its own product and also alters other product it buys in the market to tailor it to the Paul Stuart aesthetic. Earlier in its life, the store carried outside brands, such as Gant, Corbin and Southwick, but Grodd believed Paul Stuart could distinguish itself from competitors by offering its own branded merchandise.

“I wasn’t interested in competing with designers or brands who put their names in other places. I felt that if we didn’t know our customer better than someone sitting 1,000 miles away, then we didn’t belong in the same business,” he said.

A Chicago store, which opened in 1995, now occupies a town house on East Oak Street. The company also operates licensed units in Japan and South Korea.

“I’ve known Cliff my entire career. He was instrumental to building one of the most respected brands. He was a great leader in our industry, an incredible person and a true friend,” said Ralph Lauren.

Over the years, Grodd helped dress celebrities including Cary Grant (“I had to personally take care of him at the Plaza,” said Grodd), Fred Astaire, Frank Sinatra, Paul Newman (“when he lived in Fresh Meadows”), Mel Brooks, David McCullough, David Halberstam and Philip Roth. “They look good because they’re comfortable and distinguished. And it’s natural, not staid,” noted Grodd.

He was known to exercise regularly early in the morning at the Yale Club and be among the first to arrive at work at the store, striding into his second-floor office. His exacting standards led employees to joke at times that “Grodd is in the details.”

In 2007, Grodd introduced a younger label to his stores, called Phineas Cole. Meant to appeal to a more trend-conscious consumer in his 30s, it was the company’s first subbrand and was based on the fictitious “errant nephew” of Paul Stuart, according to Grodd.

“We’re all saddened by his death,” Neiman said. “The man was a master retailer. He was a great inspiration and a leader in men’s wear and the business.”

Neiman stressed that since Grodd’s illness, Michael Ostrove, senior vice president, had been running the business on a daily basis. He will now be elevated to president and will continue to run the store.

The industry mourned Grodd’s passing, recalling him as a tough, determined retailer — one who understood his customer but stuck to his convictions. Famously, Grodd retained the store’s private label focus and refused to let designer names eclipse the prestige of Paul Stuart even after men’s wear became a brand-oriented business.

“His legacy is that you can operate a business and stick to your principles,” Wilkes Bashford said. “He stuck to his guns no matter what was happening in the business.”

“He was very independent,” said Jack Mitchell. “He constantly wanted to improve his own label.”

Others view Grodd’s legacy in his aesthetic. “If he saw a fabric or silhouette he liked, he went with it strong. There was never any halfway,” said designer Joseph Abboud, who met Grodd when he was a young man working for Louis Boston. “He always told me, ‘Joey, you’ll be a good designer because you worked retail.’ He knew that, for a designer, the retail floor is where the battle is won and lost.”

Bill Roberti, former ceo of Brooks Brothers and now with Alvarez & Marsal, said, “Cliff was a consummate gentleman. He had wonderful vision and great style. He was a true icon in the men’s business and will surely be sorely missed by his employees and customers.”

Landing Paul Stuart continued to be a prestigious account for the vendor community. “For that Wall Street elegant guy, that store was among the best,” said Arnold Silverstone, president of Samuelsohn, which makes private label tailored clothing for the retailer. “Selling to them was and is a big deal for a vendor.”


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