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Paraboot / "Michael" Model / Legendary "Chaussures".

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The audacity and entrepreneurial spirit of Rémy Richard

It all began in the late nineteenth century in Izeaux, a small village at the foot of the Alps. Rémy-Alexis Richard, born in 1878 into a humble farming family, became a semi-skilled cutter at Chevron, one of a score of shoe factories in this Isère village. These factories received orders from contractors "in the city", bought the leather, cut it and had the pieces assembled by farming families at home in the surrounding hills, before fixing them (by nailing or sewing them) onto wooden or leather soles, depending on the product in question.
Rémy Richard soon realised that these contractors from the cities earned more money than his own boss, and decided to try his luck; he went up to Paris with the designs for his own models to sell them as a "factory agent".
His plan worked! Rémy had "his" first shoes manufactured by the factories in Izeaux – including the one he had just left – and sold them to the "major" clients in Paris. In 1908, he began to hire his own staff.



Rubber becomes the DNA of the Paraboot brand

From Paristo London via Amsterdam, Rémy Richard loved travelling and tradeshows, where he collected plenty of medals.
In 1926, although he didn’t speak a word of English, he set sail for the United States. With an eye for innovation, he noticed the rubber boots worn by the Americans, and above all the assets of this brand new material, also known as latex or gum. This was an epiphany for him. He returned with this material and knowhow to Tullins Fures, a small town close to Izeaux, where he had just bought a new factory building.
Rémy began manufacturing boots that were guaranteed to be waterproof, with "layers" of latex added by hand on wooden lasts and vulcanised in vats.
Rémy Richard was not the first to do this, however. In 1853 the Englishman Hiram Hutchinsonhad already set up a rubber boot factory in France, the forerunner of the Aigle group. Hutchinsonacquired the patents from Charles Junior Goodyear, the inventor of vulcanisation, as well as patents from his father, Charles Goodyear – who, a few years earlier, had developed a sewing machine that was to bear his name.
Rémy did however have eleven years’ start on Vitale Bramani, the founder of the "Vibram" brand: it was Rémy Richard who invented notched soles for mountain boots. Such were the interweaving paths of destiny.
Rémy then had the idea of using this rubber to replace wooden soles. These were inexpensive but uncomfortable and tended to wear out too quickly
Rémy just needed to find the right technique: at that time, the leather uppers of shoes were either nailed to wooden soles or sewn onto leather soles. Neither technique was possible with rubber soles.
Rémy Richard therefore developed a system using fine rubber soles which could be sewn to the upper and then glued with liquid latex to a thicker rubber sole.
The only remaining problem was vulcanisation; an old walnut oil press (another local speciality) made it possible to bake, and thus vulcanise, these shoes in steel moulds, using the humble principle of the waffle iron.
From then on, all the work boots had rubber soles. These became the distinguishing mark of footwear produced at the Richard Pontvert factory.



1983
Le plébiscite de « la » Michael sauve Paraboot de la disparition

Whilst negotiating with the Trade Tribunal, Michel Richard went to Italyin search of more efficient equipment. He sought to understand the methods of his most formidable Italian competitors. In the end, he met "WP lavori in corso", an Italian distributor of fashion garments, and negotiated a contract.
The Italian stylists had decreed that men needed to get themselves a new look: gone were the dark suit, shirt and tie and black thin-soled moccasins. Instead they were to wear tweed jackets, corduroy trousers and polo-neck jumpers. All that was missing was a thick-soled shoe made from decent materials. Although they had all they needed in Italy, they chose the Michael model by Paraboot.
The popular demand for “the” Michael saved Paraboot from going under.
The fashion quickly caught on, orders flooded in and the workload management schedule was assured. The historic suppliers who had been spared when bankruptcy loomed remained loyal! Paraboot had been working with the same tanneries for several generations – suppliers who were friends first and foremost, who shared the same passion for the job and enjoyed mutual trust. That made all the difference.
The French clients were still there and were right to have waited: two years later, the Italian fashion arrived in France, providing them with unexpected additional business.
The only thing left to be done was to reorganise everything: the staff trusted the young boss and accepted his new rules. Management control became sharper, with computers rolled out to all departments. Productivity improved - as did pay.

The bankers were relegated to counting income and expenditure.




The Mitford Sisters / VÍDEO bellow,The Dowager Duchess of Devonshire

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The Mitford family is a minor aristocratic English family whose main family line had seats at Mitford, Northumberland. Several heads of the family served as High Sheriff of Northumberland. A junior line, with seats at NewtonPark, Northumberland, and Exbury House, Hampshire, descends via the historian William Mitford (1744–1827) and were twice elevated to the British peerage, in 1802 and 1902, under the title Baron Redesdale. The Mitford sisters are William Mitford's great-great-great-granddaughters.

The sisters, six daughters of David Freeman-Mitford, 2nd Baron Redesdale, and Sydney Bowles, became celebrated, and at times scandalous, figures that were caricatured, according to The Times journalist Ben Macintyre, as "Diana the Fascist, Jessica the Communist, Unity the Hitler-lover; Nancy the Novelist; Deborah the Duchess and Pamela the unobtrusive poultry connoisseur"
The family traces its origins in Northumberland back to the time of the Norman conquest. In the Middle Ages they had been Border Reivers based in Redesdale. The main family line had seats at MitfordCastle and Mitford Old Manor House prior to Mitford Hall in 1828.

The sisters achieved notoriety for their controversial but stylish lives as young people, then for their public political divisions between communism and fascism. Nancy and Jessica became well-known writers: Nancy the author of The Pursuit of Love and Love in a Cold Climate and Jessica 1963's The American Way of Death. Deborah managed one of the most successful stately homes in England, Chatsworth. Jessica and Deborah married nephews-by-marriage of prime ministers Winston Churchill and Harold Macmillan, respectively. Deborah and Diana both married wealthy aristocrats. Unity and Diana were well-known during the 1930s for being close to Adolf Hitler. In the early 1980s, Deborah became politically active when she and her husband Andrew Cavendish, 11th Duke of Devonshire joined the new Social Democratic Party.

The children of David Freeman-Mitford, 2nd Baron Redesdale, known to his children as "Farve" and various other nicknames, their mother was Sydney Freeman-Mitford, Baroness Redesdale, known as "Muv", the daughter of Thomas Bowles. David and Sydney married in 1904. The family homes changed from Batsford House to Asthall Manor beside the River Windrush in Oxfordshire, and then Swinbrook Cottage nearby, with a house at Rutland Gate in London. They also lived in a cottage in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire which they used as a summer residence.

The sisters and their brother Thomas grew up in an aristocratic country house with emotionally distant parents and a large household with numerous servants; this family dynamic was not unusual for upper-class families of the time. There was also a disregard for formal education of women of the family, and they were expected to marry at a young age to a financially well-off husband. The children had a private language called "Boudledidge" (pronounced 'bowdledidge'), and each had a different nickname for the others. Their parents were described as "nature's fascists". At least two of their daughters followed in their footsteps; one turned her back on her inherited privileges, ran away to become a communist, a result of the excitement of European politics in the 1930s. Jessica's memoir Hons and Rebels describes their upbringing, and Nancy obviously drew upon her family members for characters in her novels.

Upon the outbreak of the Second World War, their political views came into sharper relief. "Farve" remained a conservative, but "Muv" usually supported her fascist daughters, and they separated in the late 1940s. Nancy, a moderate socialist, worked in London during the Blitz. Pamela remained seemingly non-political, although reportedly a rabid anti-Semite.Tom, a fascist, refused to fight Germany but volunteered to fight against Imperial Japan. He was killed in action a short time after arriving in Asia. Diana, married to Sir Oswald Mosley, leader of the British Union of Fascists, was imprisoned in London for three years under Defence Regulation 18B. Unity, distraught over the war declaration against Germany, tried to commit suicide by shooting herself in the head. She suffered brain damage which eventually led to her early death. Jessica, a communist supporter, had moved to the US, but her husband Esmond Romilly volunteered for the RCAF and died when his bomber developed mechanical problems over the North Sea. In numerous letters Jessica stated that her daughter received a pension from the Canadian government from Esmond's death until she turned 18. The political rift between Jessica and Diana left them estranged until their deaths. The other sisters kept in frequent contact.

The sisters were prolific letter-writers, and a substantial body of correspondence still exists, principally letters between them.

The Mitford sisters - Unity, Diana and Nancy Unity Mitford; Diana Mitford (Mrs Bryan Guinness, later Lady Diana Mosley) and writer Nancy Mitford. Photograph: Hulton Archive/Getty Images

There is more to the Mitfords than Hitler and the high life

Friends mock my fascination with the family as a ‘posh crush’, but Debo and her sisters showed women what was possible

 Hadley Freeman           

As I write this, my desk is stacked high with remnants of “the Mitford industry”, as Decca Mitford referred to it with scorn. I have been collecting them since I was a teenager, the way football fans collect programmes, and with news this week that Deborah (or Debo, as she was nicknamed by her nickname-loving family) Mitford, the youngest and last surviving member of the family had died, I’ve been rereading them all.

There are the biographies and collected letters, starting with my personal favourite, Mary S Lovell’s The Mitford Girls, as well as those written and edited by the family’s friends and relatives, some with predictably glamorous surnames (Waugh, Guinness); some with predictably ominous ones (Mosley). But most of all, there are the books by the women themselves: Decca Mitford’s autobiography, Hons and Rebels; Diana Mitford’s A Life of Contrasts; Deborah Mitford’s titled, charmingly, Wait for Me! Memoirs of the Youngest Mitford Sister; and Nancy Mitford’s glittering novels, From Highland Fling to Don’t Tell Alfred, via The Pursuit of Love and Love in a Cold Climate.

So yes, I am one of those people who loves both to read about the Mitfords and to read the Mitfords. This is probably a hopelessly non-U habit of mine, but being a hopelessly middle-class American, everything about me is non-U. But I hadn’t realised until relatively late in my obsession how other fellow non-U-ers frowned on it too. “You’ve got a posh crush, I see,” one journalist sniffed at me, on spotting a Mitford book sticking out of my bag.

DJ Taylor summed up the Mitfords as “witty remarks and textbook flippancy [underpinned by] an absolute and obdurate self-belief”. In a review of a collection of letters between the sisters, Andrew O’Hagan, one of the best critics and writers living, described their style as mere “posh aesthetic”: “The posh aesthetic appeals to people who want life’s profundities to scatter on the wind like handfuls of confetti,” he wrote in the London Review of Books. Liking the Mitfords, I realised, was seen as something girlish, shallow and immature, like having an over-developed fondness for ponies, or wanting to be a ballerina. And this, in all honesty, amazed me, and still does.

The Mitfords were posh: of that there is no doubt. Their parents, David and Sydney Freeman-Mitford, were Lord and Lady Redesdale, rich in land but not in cash, and when it comes to English aristocracy, you can’t get more posh than that. To read the names that run like beads through the sisters’ biographies is like reciting a rosary of the early 20th-century British upper class: Curzon, Cooper, Churchill, Cunard, Strachey, Beaton. This is part of what Taylor describes as the “Mitford chic”, and it is how they’ve long been packaged and sold.

Their particular brand of upper class snobbery is now so anachronistic it’s simply amusing: in an obituary this week of Deborah, the writer pointed to a list of the late Duchess of Devonshire’s dislikes, which included but was not limited to “the bits of paper that fall out of magazines; female weather forecasters; the words ‘environment’, ‘conservation’ and ‘leisure’; supercilious assistants at makeup counters; dietary fads; skimmed milk; girls with slouching shoulders and Tony Blair.”

And then there are the Nazis. Of the seven Mitford children – Nancy, Pamela, Tom, Diana, Unity (“Bobo”), Decca and Debo – most had met Hitler and one, Unity, had an intensely close relationship with him and signed off her letters, in classic Mitford style, “Heil Hitler! Love, Bobo”. Unity is probably the ultimate example of nominative determinism, having been conceived in Swastika, Ontario, and given the middle name Valkyrie at birth. Diana fell passionately in love with Oswald Mosley and the two married in Goebbels’ drawing room, with Hitler as a guest. At the other end of the scale, Decca ran away as soon as she could and became a committed communist.

As a middle-class American – and Jewish, to boot – I should be repulsed by the Mitfords. That I’m not is because they collectively represent something much greater than their (fascinating) biographical details. For a while I thought it might be “posh-crushing”, and so read books about other aristocratic families. I couldn’t finish a single one, they were all utterly deadly.

It astounds me that anyone could dismiss the Mitford mentality as simply a “posh aesthetic”, because their writing is so much more layered than that. Yes, Nancy’s two most famous novels are witty, but they are underpinned by great hooks of self-awareness and sadness that snag on the lightness. “Keeping up a good shop-front” was the aim in the face of the enormous personal tragedies suffered by the whole family.

Even though Nancy wrote The Pursuit of Love at the height of her love affair with Gaston Palewski, even she couldn’t envisage a happy ending for them and killed her alter ego, Linda (but in classic Nancy fashion, she also killed Linda’s lover too.) And she was right: Palewski would eventually devastate her by marrying someone else, and she died soon after. One can only maintain the shop-front for so long.

But the Mitfords represent more than glamour and tragedy. To me, and I suspect to a lot of other women (for it is mainly women) whom they fascinate, they remain an exciting reminder of a woman’s ability to shape her own life, for better or worse, uncowed by familial and social expectations and restrictions.

Decca fell out with most of her family due to her political beliefs; David’s heart was broken by Diana’s marriage and Unity’s antics, and his and Sydney’s marriage was eventually destroyed by the strain of it all. But each of the girls pursued their own wildly different paths, whatever the personal cost.

Decca went from being a pampered, uneducated aristocratic child to a fierce civil rights campaigner in the US; Diana remained unapologetically devoted to Mosley to the day he died; Nancy lived a somewhat lonely life in Paris, writing novels. How many of us can say that we pursued such individualistic lives, utterly unshaped by our parents and unlike our siblings?

If they were all fascists, or novelists, or communists, there would be of no interest. The fascination comes from the unapologetic differences. So it might sound odd to say this about a family spiced with such bitter ingredients as Hitler and loss, but what the Mitford sisters represent is courage and freedom.



Wait for Me! Memoirs of the Youngest Mitford Sister, by Deborah Devonshire
Debo Mitford's story, written aged 90, is a worthy addition to the family oeuvre
Rachel Cooke

The great thing about loving the Mitfords is that a fresh treat seems to be delivered almost every week. Already this year, we've been blessed with a new edition of Wigs on the Green , Nancy's long-lost skit on the dubious politics of her brother-in-law, Oswald Mosley. And now, hard on its heels comes Debo, the youngest sister, who, at the grand old age of 90, has written her memoirs.

Naturally Debo is somewhat at a disadvantage here, given how many have come before her. Nancy and Decca weren't the only writers in the family – Diana (Mosley) also published her memoirs – and I've long since lost track of all the letters and biographies. Can her book really contain anything new? Certainly, it's striking that its author's eccentric childhood, being so familiar, makes up one of the least interesting sections of Wait For Me! But this isn't really the point. You read her for her qualities, not for her revelations.

Of course, the Mitford parents, Lord and Lady Redesdale ("Muv and Farve"), still have the power to charm, even when depicted by one more willing to stick to the facts than Nancy, whose novels made Farve famous. Debo has the sharp beak of a magpie when it comes to wrenching from memory just the right anecdote. I like this one. Farve, she writes, would take his coffee to his study, where he would proceed to drink it cold at regular intervals throughout the morning: his "suckments", he called this. When a housemaid was rash enough to empty and wash his cup, he thereafter locked the vessel in his safe.

There are also warm portraits of her sisters. As a child, Decca (Jessica) was Debo's favourite, being closest to her in age, though her love for Unity, whose pathetic life caused the whole family so much pain, ran very deep. When, in the book, war breaks out, and Unity, a fascist with a pash for Hitler ("she would be arrested as a stalker today," observes Debo), shoots herself with a mother-of-pearl pistol in a Munich park, her sister's prose, previously lively, falls mechanically flat. You sense that behind the stiff lip, all this still hurts terribly (Unity was thereafter retarded, and liked to dress up as a clergyman). "We knew the bad side," she writes a little later. "We knew she had condoned Nazi cruelty … [but] there was something innocent about Unity, a guileless, childlike simplicity that made her vulnerable and in need of protection." Horrible to have to all but apologise for loving your own sister.

She met Andrew Cavendish, a second son and therefore not, at the time, the heir to a Dukedom and the Chatsworth estate, in 1938, the year she came out: "That was it for me … nothing and nobody else mattered." They married during the war, at the height of the bombing, a time both heady and terrible. Decca's husband, Esmond, had already been killed; Debo's brother, Tom, and Andrew's brother, Billy, died soon after. Diana, meanwhile, whose politics meant she was considered a threat to the nation, was in Holloway Prison. (Debo believes Nancytold the Foreign Office that Diana was "extremely dangerous" because she was jealous of her.)

Through it all, however, Debo is the best kind of stoic. It's not only that, like everyone in wartime Britain, she learned to cope (when petrol rationing came in, she used an old horse-drawn milk float to get around). She is in possession of what I can only describe as a uniquely Mitford-esque sensibility: loving but unsentimental; devoid of self-pity; unwilling to bore others with her own travails; able to find the ridiculous in almost anything. I realise, all you Mitford haters, that she was cushioned by her class, and her husband's wealth. But these qualities – dismayingly rare in Oprahworld – are, to me, indisputably admirable. No wonder she has so many friends.

In her memoir, you'll find everyone, from Hitler (he wasn't "like his photos", and his flat, being very brown, was horrible) to Ivor Novello ("What an enchanting bit of beige," he said, on meeting her whippet, Studley). Visitors to Chatsworth, and to the Duke's Irish home, Lismore Castle, include Evelyn Waugh, Hubert de Givenchy and Duncan Grant, though first up is Lucian Freud, enlisted to paint cyclamen on the wall of a Chatsworth bathroom, a task he never completes (he would greet Debo every morning with the words: "I've had a wonderful night taking out everything I did yesterday"). I can't share her enthusiasm for the moaning minnie Prince of Wales, but we all have our blind spots.

Admittedly, the Duchess's work at Chatsworth – its farm shop was her idea – hardly makes for thrilling reading. "My eight-year association with Tarmac came about by chance," is a sentence so crashingly dull, I half wondered if she was being satirical. But there is something cherishable about her enjoyment of her Derbyshire life. Her enthusiasm for the big house, and for all that it brings with it, is generous, and occasionally batty: when Oscar de la Renta comes to stay, she worries he will find mere flowers boring, and creates a table decoration featuring a cockerel (alive) in a glass box.

Above all, though, it is enduring. Since the Duke's death in 2004, she has lived in a nearby village, but her appetite – for friends, for fun, even for work – belongs to someone half her age. This is what stays with you. As she relates the deaths of her sisters – Diana was the last to go, in 2003 – you feel, by rights, that her world should narrow, that she should, by now, be marooned on the survivors' island that is extreme old age. Yet this is emphatically not the case. She misses them. How could she not? But her eyes – always a special shade of blue – seem to me to be as beady, and as full of mischief, as ever.

JEEVES ... will be away for two weeks.

French soldier’s room unchanged 96 years after his death in first world war

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Hubert Rochereau’s room in a house in Bélâbre, France. Photograph: Bruno Mascle/Photoshot
French soldier’s room unchanged 96 years after his death in first world war
Parents kept room as it was the day he left, and stipulated when they moved that it should not be changed for 500 years
Anne Penketh in Paris

The name of dragoons officer Hubert Rochereau is commemorated on a war memorial in Bélâbre, his native village in central France, along with those of other young men who lost their lives in the first world war.

But Rochereau also has a much more poignant and exceptional memorial: his room in a large family house in the village has been preserved with his belongings for almost 100 years since his death in Belgium.

A lace bedspread is still on the bed, adorned with photographs and Rochereau’s feathered helmet. His moth-eaten military jacket hangs limply on a hanger. His chair, tucked under his desk, faces the window in the room where he was born on 10 October 1896.

He died in an English field ambulance on 26 April 1918, a day after being wounded during fighting for control of the village of Loker, in Belgium. The village was in allied hands for much of the war but changed hands several times between 25 and 30 April, and was finally recaptured by French forces four days after Rochereau’s death.
 
The soldier’s desk. Photograph: Bruno Mascle/Photoshot

The parents of the young officer kept his room exactly as it was the day he left for the battlefront. When they decided to move in 1935, they stipulated in the sale that Rochereau’s room should not be changed for 500 years.

“This clause had no legal basis,” said the current owner, retired local official Daniel Fabre, who showed the room to the Nouvelle République newspaper. But nevertheless he and his wife, who inherited the house from her grandparents, have respected the wishes of Rochereau’s parents and will continue to do so.

The room contains the spurs of the cavalry officer, his sword and a fencing helmet, and a collection of pistols. A flag is propped up beside the wall. His pipes are on his desk and the stale smell of English tobacco comes from a cigarette packet.

Rochereau, a second lieutenant with the 15th Dragoons Regiment based in Libourne, outside Bordeaux, received a posthumous croix de guerre, the French equivalent of being mentioned in dispatches, and the Legion of Honour for his extreme bravery on the battlefield.

As well as being commemorated at the local war memorial, his name is also on the monument to the fallen in Libourne. The regiment’s history recounts how Rochereau’s commander was killed by a bullet to the head after giving the “heroic” order to counterattack in Loker.

On Rochereau’s desk is a vial on which, in keeping with tradition, a label records that it contains “the soil of Flanders on which our dear child fell and which has kept his remains for four years”.

The battlefields of Flanders, which stretched from north-east Franceinto Belgium, saw some of the fiercest fighting of the 1914-18 war. To commemorate the 580,000 soldiers who died on that part of the western front, a memorial by the architect Philippe Prost is due to be inaugurated by the French president, François Hollande, on 11 November.


The soldiers who died there came not only from the UK, France, Belgiumand Germany but also from as far afield as Canada, South Africa, New Zealand, Australiaand India. The memorial at Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, France’s biggest national war cemetery, where the remains of 40,000 French soldiers are interred, is a giant ring of gilded metal bearing the names of the dead. Prost says he intended the Ring of Memory to symbolise unity and eternity.


Duke of Marlborough dies at 88.

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Duke of Marlborough dies at 88
Jamie Blandford, who was at one time estranged from his father over drug addiction, will inherit the title
Press Association

The Duke of Marlborough has died at the age of 88. A spokesman for BlenheimPalacein Oxfordshire said: “With great sadness, we announce that the 11th Duke of Marlborough passed away peacefully this morning … as per his wishes, the palace will be open as normal today.”

The Duke’s full name was John George Vanderbilt Henry Spencer-Churchill.

David Cameron paid tribute, saying: “I am greatly saddened to hear of the death of the Duke of Marlborough. To me, he was not only the vice-president of my association but also a good man and friend.

“His grace will be deeply missed by all those he worked alongside at Blenheim and by the town of Woodstockwhere he played such a positive and active role in the community he loved.

“My thoughts and prayers are with all his family and friends at this sad time.”

The Duke was a cousin of Winston Churchill, who was his godfather, and he was also distantly related to the late Princess Diana. His death means his once-troubled son Jamie Blandford, currently known as the Marquess of Blandford, will inherit his father’s title and become the 12th Duke of Marlborough.

A BlenheimPalace spokesman said he was unable to comment on whether the marquess will inherit the palace estate, which is worth around £100m.

The palace in Oxfordshire was built in the early 18th century in the opulent baroque style. The birthplace of Churchill, the 4,800 hectare (12,000 acres) estate has 187 rooms, dwarfing BuckinghamPalace and WindsorCastle.

The palace was built as a gift to the 1st Duke of Marlborough, John Churchill, as a reward for his military triumphs against the French and Bavarians during the war of the Spanish succession.

The duke had been married four times and has four surviving children – two from his first marriage to Susan Hornby of the WH Smith dynasty, and two from his third marriage to Rosita Spencer-Churchill.

In 2008 he married his fourth wife, Lily Sahni, the daughter of a successful Indian businessman, who was more than 30 years the Duke’s junior.

The marquess spent much of the early 1990s in newspaper headlines because of his drug addiction.

He spent several spells in prison for a string of driving offences, causing some to dub him “the wayward peer”, and was publicly estranged from his father.
In a bid to safeguard the BlenheimPalaceestate from the Marquess’s excessive behaviour, his father won a court battle in 1994 to ensure he never won control of the family seat.

After the high court action, the Duke of Marlborough said of his son: “I think there have been black sheep in every family and there’s nothing new about that. We have had some good ‘uns and some bad ‘uns. He’s had every chance, hasn’t he?”

The marquess has a long history of skirmishes with the law.

In 1983 he was fined for assaulting a police officer, and the following year he was sentenced to three months imprisonment for breach of probation.

He was put on probation again in 1985 and fined 1,000 for breaking into a chemist’s shop and in 1986 he was convicted of drug offences. At that time he admitted spending £20,000 on cocaine in four months.

From the late 1980s into the early 1990s he chalked up a record of motoring offences and was repeatedly banned from driving.

In May 1994 he was remanded in custody for three weeks in HMP Brixton after failing to keep appointments with probation officers, and the following month he was put on probation for 18 months and ordered to attend a clinic for drug addiction.

In December 1999 he was rushed to hospital with a missing eyelid, a badly damaged nose, three missing teeth and a broken shoulder after a car ran into his Toyota Land Cruiser in Kiddington, Oxfordshire.

But he reformed his behaviour and in 2012 he featured in a Channel 4 documentary which charted his new relationship with his father.

In a preview for the show, the Daily Mail quoted the late duke saying: “I am fully confident that James will be able to keep this place [BlenheimPalace] going. But over the top of him, and over the top of me, are trustees.

“You can’t predict the future. You never know, God forbid, whether you would get behind the problems again but things are looking much more settled at the moment.


“Trying to keep Blenheim going is a very important part of the family’s history and life at the present time, and so what we’re trying to do is ensure that Blenheim is kept for future generations.”

The Duke of Marlborough, who has died, with his fourth wife Lily Mahtani. Photograph: Ben Birchall/PA


Former drug addict and ex-convict Jamie Blandford becomes 12th Duke of Marlborough after father dies
Jamie Blandford, once described by his despairing father as the 'black sheep' of the Spencer-Churchill family, is the new custodian of BlenheimPalace

His father once regarded Jamie Blandford as such a lost cause that he went to court in an attempt permanently to disinherit him.
But today the convicted burglar, drug addict and serial prisoner became the 12th Duke of Marlborough and custodian of BlenheimPalacefollowing the death of his father at the age of 88.
The Spencer-Churchill family announced “with great sadness” that the 11th Duke, John George Vanderbilt Henry Spencer-Churchill, “passed away peacefully” this morning. His funeral will be held next Friday.
David Cameron, a friend of the Duke as well as his local MP, said: “I am greatly saddened to hear of the death of the Duke of Marlborough. To me, he was not only the vice-president of my [Witney Conservative] Association but also a good man and friend.
“His grace will be deeply missed by all those he worked alongside at Blenheim and by the town of Woodstockwhere he played such a positive and active role in the community he loved.
“My thoughts and prayers are with all his family and friends at this sad time.”
The responsibility of maintaining one of Britain’s grandest country houses for future generations now passes to 58-year-old Jamie Blandford, as he is commonly known, following a remarkable turnaround in his relationship with his late father, who once described him as the “black sheep” of his family.
Blandford, or His Grace as he will now be formally addressed, has more than 20 convictions going back 30 years for drug offences, burglary, criminal damage, numerous driving offences and even punching a police officer.
His well-documented battle with heroin and cocaine addiction – he once admitted spending £20,000 on cocaine in four months – strained his relationship with his father to breaking point, and in 1994 the two men faced each other in court to fight out the future of the dukedom and the £100 million Oxfordshire estate.
The 11th Duke became the first aristocrat for more than a century to attempt to use the courts to deny his direct heir his eventual title, and was ultimately thwarted because the 1706 act of Parliament that gifted Blenheim to the 1st Duke of Marlborough forbade any intervention in the inheritance.
But Blandford’s father managed to persuade the High Court that it had a duty to protect the estate for future generations, and his son was forced to agree to an agreement that ceded all executive power to a board of trustees that look after the estate.
Two years ago it emerged during a Channel 4 documentary about the family that Blandford had stayed clean of drugs for several years, earning something of a reprieve from his father, who agreed that he should inherit overall charge of the estate, though with trustees retaining a power of veto.
The 11th Duke said at the time: “I am fully confident that James will be able to keep this place going. But over the top of him – and over the top of me – are trustees. You can’t predict the future.
“Trying to keep Blenheim going is a very important part of the family’s history and life at the present time, and so what we’re trying to do is ensure that Blenheim is kept for future generations.”
The 12th Duke, who lives in a farmhouse on the estate, has the right to take up residence in the Palace with his family, but a spokesman for Blenheim Palace said it was “too early to say” whether he will choose to live in the house, which is open to the public, or remain in his current home.
The 11th Duke, a cousin of Sir Winston Churchill and a distant relative by marriage of Diana, Princess of Wales, was married four times, and leaves five children. His most recent marriage, in 2008, was to Lily Mahtani, an Iranian-born mother-of-three who was 30 years his junior.





Coming Soon : Chris Steele-Perkins’ book "A Place In The Country".

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Holkham Hall: a modern-day Downton
There’s a butler, a gamekeeper, a cook – and everyone swears it’s nothing like Downton Abbey. But what keeps a country estate alive in 2014? Magnum photographer Chris Steele-Perkins spends a year at Holkham Hall in Norfolk
Words: Photographs:


Gamekeepers at Holkham Estate, Norfolk.

Photograph: Chris Steele-Perkins/Magnum

Pass between the gatehouses, down the sweeping drive towards Holkham Hall, and you enter a time warp. Fallow deer cluster scenically under broad oaks, geese honk as they rise from the silver lake. It could almost be 1764, the year the grand house was completed, shortly after the death of Thomas Coke, the first Earl of Leicester.

The estate is now run by Viscount Thomas Coke, the son of the seventh Earl of Leicester. Photographs by Chris Steele-Perkins, who documented the 25,000-acre estate in Norfolk over the course of a year, appear to portray a deferential Downton Abbey-style existence, even today. But Steele-Perkins also discovered a world permeated by contemporary corporate values and defined by its visitors – a country home that, as he puts it, has been “reinvented in this new manner which is very consumable for the outside world”.



Lord and Lady Coke with their four children. Photograph: Chris Steele-Perkins/Magnum

Holkham has diversified into 48 different businesses serving both aristocratic and popular tastes, from a boutique hotel to a caravan park and 300 houses, mostly let to local people. There are 200 full-time and 150 seasonal staff – including six gamekeepers and a butler, but also a conservation manager and education officer, too. Holkham’s walled estate is open to the public, hosting concerts and festivals. Each year, more than half a million people visit Holkham’s beach, which is a national nature reserve and, unusually, is entrusted to the privately owned estate rather than the government’s wildlife body Natural England.

The Cokes (pronounced “Cook”) are more generous over public access than most great estates, but they are wary of the media. David Horton-Fawkes, estates director, admits they were nervous about giving access to Steele-Perkins, a member of the Magnum collective who has documented poverty around Britain. “We can easily be depicted as an anachronistic relic of the 19th century, but we’re not that,” Horton-Fawkes insists. “We don’t want to be seen as forelock-tugging servants living in the 19th century. It’s disrespectful to the people who work here.”

In fact, Steele-Perkins found a bustling, busy estate which he likens to “a well-run ship”. “I started to think of the estate in nautical terms,” he notes in an introduction to his book of these photographs. “A long time ago I had spent a week on the aircraft carrier HMS Invincible where the crew was organised into myriad teams, but worked together as an organic whole when needed. Holkham is similar: building maintenance, farming, forestry, gamekeeping, with their officers and their petty officers and their ratings, in effect.”


A woodcock shooting party with beaters. Photograph: Chris Steele-Perkins/Magnum

For much of the 20th century, country piles such as Holkham were an endangered species. Prohibitive death duties between the wars caused the break-up of many great estates, which were sold for development, handed over to the National Trust or, incredibly, demolished. Holkham held 42,000 acres in the late 1940s when the fourth earl, another Thomas Coke, tried to pass it to the National Trust. That deal never happened and the Cokes were down to their last 25,000 acres in 1973 when Edward, father of the current incumbent, began running the estate. “When he took over in 1973, every facet was losing money,” says Viscount Coke, 49, who lives in part of the hall with his wife Polly and their four children.

When Coke returned to his family seat aged 28, after Eton, university and the army, he remembers his father looking at him and saying, “What are you doing here?” The seventh earl (who is still alive) managed a mix of farming, forestry and shooting, with a few tourists visiting the house, and he didn’t need any help. So the young heir began by looking after a large caravan park – “We’d prefer to say holiday park,” Coke says, “we’ve invested a lot on landscaping and making it nice” – which had returned to the estate after the local council’s lease ended.


Groundsmen at work. Photograph: Chris Steele-Perkins/Magnum

Twenty years ago, 75% of Holkham’s turnover came from the land. Now, tourism and leisure make up 55% of turnover; farming and property rentals are only 40%. Coke was given full control of the estate seven years ago and appointed Horton-Fawkes two years ago. “For a landowner, I’m not bad at this customer service sort of thing, but David introduced me to a whole new level,” Coke says. “I don’t think I’ve uttered the word ‘punter’ for the last few years – I have to say things like ‘guest’.” Such openness has been rewarded: Coke is surprised that his walled garden is now tended by 23 volunteers. “I always thought people would happily volunteer for the National Trust, but to volunteer for Little Lord Fauntleroy living in a big house – it’s amazing we’ve got to that position.”

In many ways, the estate resembles any other modern corporation. Coke has introduced board meetings and non-executive directors, “people with experience from outside”. Senior staff recently visited Volvo’s HQ in Gothenburg to see how they did business, and they already have some unusual incentives in place: if an employee doesn’t perform a task on time, they must bake a cake. Coke is not exempt although, he admits, when called upon he “made two loaves of bread in the breadmaker”.

Coke and his wife have a private staff of three, compared with 50 inthe Downton era, though this does include a butler. When Coke took over the estate, he says, “I thought, ‘Dad had a butler, I’m not going to have one’ – but it’s such a big house.” The butler, Steele-Perkins notes, is “quite young and nothing like the butler of fiction”. He wears full butler attire only for formal occasions, and Steele-Perkins spent time with the staff while they prepared for one such event: a black-tie dinner for 24 people. “Laying the table, lining up the glasses, took hours.”

Steele-Perkins was surprised to find that even among themselves, staff refer to their bosses as “Lord” and “Lady”. Horton-Fawkes says that Tom and Polly “lost a lot of sleep” over this. “They are very approachable, and didn’t want that deferential relationship,” he says. Nevertheless, they decided to retain a traditional formality to “reinforce the boundary between work and home”.

As for the staff, it seems that old habits die hard. “I quite like saying ‘Lord Coke’, that formality seems right for the estate,” says Sarah Henderson, Holkham’s conservation manager. Kevan McCaig, the head gamekeeper, who was previously employed by the royal family at Sandringham, says he is “more comfortable” calling his boss Lord Coke. “In different places I’ve worked I’ve never called anybody by their first name,” he says.



A cricket match in front of the hall. Photograph: Chris Steele-Perkins/Magnum

McCaig lives in a cottage in the grounds. Only one member of staff lives in the hall itself: the head of security. But while he was working there, Steele-Perkins was able to stay in the house. “It could be quite spooky,” he says, “coming back there at night, torch in hand, after dining at one of the pubs that Holkham owns, footsteps echoing down stone paved corridors above the haunted cellars, a whisper of wind around the windows…” Over the course of the year, as the family got to know him better, he graduated from the butler’s quarters to the guest bedrooms. He remembers one night staying in a bedroom with Italian Renaissance paintings on the wall - a room which, he recalls, “had a footprint bigger than that of my whole house in London


• Chris Steele-Perkins’ book A Place In The Country, from which these photographs are taken, is published by Dewi Lewis next month, priced £25.




Steele-Perkins was born in Rangoon, Burma in 1947 to a British father and a Burmese mother; but his father left his mother and took the boy to England at the age of two. He went to Christ's Hospital and for one year studied chemistry at the University of York before leaving for a stay in Canada. Returning to Britain, he joined the University of Newcastle upon Tyne, where he served as photographer and picture editor for a student magazine. After graduating in psychology in 1970 he started to work as a freelance photographer, specializing in the theatre, while he also lectured in psychology.

By 1971, Steele-Perkins had moved to London and become a full-time photographer, with particular interest in urban issues, including poverty. He went to Bangladesh in 1973 to take photographs for relief organizations; some of this work was exhibited in 1974 at the Camerawork Gallery (London). In 1973–74 he taught photography at the Stanhope Institute and the North East London Polytechnic.

In 1975, Steele-Perkins joined the Exit Photography Group with the photographers Nicholas Battye and Paul Trevor, and there continued his examination of urban problems: Exit's earlier booklet Down Wapping had led to a commission by the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation to increase the scale of their work, and in six years they produced 30,000 photographs as well as many hours of taped interviews. This led to the 1982 book Survival Programmes. Steele-Perkins' work included depiction from 1975 to 1977 of street festivals, and prints from London Street Festivals were bought by the British Council and exhibited with Homer Sykes' Once a Year and Patrick Ward's Wish You Were Here; Steele-Perkins' depiction of Notting Hill has been described as being in the vein of Tony Ray-Jones.

Steele-Perkins became an associate of the French agency Viva in 1976, and three years after this, he published his first book, The Teds, an examination of teddy boys that is now considered a classic of documentary and even fashion photography. He curated photographs for the Arts Council collection, and co-edited a collection of these, About 70 Photographs.

In 1977 Steele-Perkins had made a short detour into "conceptual" photography, working with the photographer Mark Edwards to collect images from the ends of rolls of films taken by others, exposures taken in a rush merely in order to finish the roll. Forty were exhibited in "Film Ends".

Work documenting poverty in Britain took Steele-Perkins to Belfast, which he found to be poorer than Glasgow, London, Middlesbrough, or Newcastle, as well as experiencing "a low-intensity war".
He stayed in the Catholic Lower Falls area, first squatting and then staying in the flat of a man he met in Belfast. His photographs of Northern Ireland appeared in a 1981 book written by Wieland Giebel. Thirty years later, he would return to the area to find that its residents had new problems and fears; the later photographs appear within Magnum Ireland.

Steele-Perkins photographed wars and disasters in the third world, leaving Viva in 1979 to join Magnum Photos as a nominee (on encouragement by Josef Koudelka), and becoming an associate member in 1981 and a full member in 1983. He continued to work in Britain, taking photographs published as The Pleasure Principle, an examination (in colour) of life in Britain but also a reflection of himself. With Philip Marlow, he successfully pushed for the opening of a London office for Magnum; the proposal was approved in 1986.

Steele-Perkins made four trips to Afghanistan in the 1990s, sometimes staying with the Taliban, the majority of whom "were just ordinary guys" who treated him courteously. Together with James Nachtwey and others, he was also fired on, prompting him to reconsider his priorities: in addition to the danger of the front line:

    . . . you never get good pictures out of it. I've yet to see a decent front-line war picture. All the strong stuff is a bit further back, where the emotions are.

A book of his black and white images, Afghanistan, was published first in French, and later in English and in Japanese. The review in the Spectator read in part:

    These astonishingly beautiful photographs are more moving than can be described; they hardly ever dwell on physical brutalities, but on the bleak rubble and desert of the country, punctuated by inexplicable moments of formal beauty, even pastoral bliss . . . the grandeur of the images comes from Steele-Perkins never neglecting the human, the individual face in the great crowd of history.
    —Philip Hensher

The book and the travelling exhibition of photographs were also reviewed favorably in the Guardian, Observer, Library Journal, and London Evening Standard.

Steele-Perkins served as the President of Magnum from 1995 to 1998. One of the annual meetings over which he presided was that of 1996, to which Russell Miller was given unprecedented access as an outsider and which Miller has described in some detail.

With his second wife the presenter and writer Miyako Yamada (山田美也子), whom he married in 1999, Steele-Perkins has spent much time in Japan, publishing two books of photographs: Fuji, a collection of views and glimpses of the mountain inspired by Hokusai's Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji; and Tokyo Love Hello, scenes of life in the city. Between these two books he also published a personal visual diary of the year 2001, Echoes.

Work in South Korea included a contribution to a Hayward Gallery touring exhibition of photographs of contemporary slavery, "Documenting Disposable People", in which Steele-Perkins interviewed and made black-and-white photographs of Korean "comfort women". "Their eyes were really important to me: I wanted them to look at you, and for you to look at them", he wrote. "They're not going to be around that much longer, and it was important to give this show a history." The photographs were published within Documenting Disposable People: Contemporary Global Slavery.

Steele-Perkins returned to England for a project by the Side Gallery on Durham's closed coalfields (exhibited within "Coalfield Stories"); after this work ended, he stayed on to work on a depiction (in black and white) of life in the north-east of England, published as Northern Exposures.

In 2008 Steele-Perkins won an Arts Council England grant for "Carers: The Hidden Face of Britain", a project to interview those caring for their relatives at home, and to photograph the relationships. Some of this work has appeared in The Guardian, and also in his book England, My England, a compilation of four decades of his photography that combines photographs taken for publication with much more personal work: he does not see himself as having a separate personality when at home. "By turns gritty and evocative," wrote a reviewer in The Guardian, "it is a book one imagines that Orwell would have liked very much."

Steele-Perkins has two sons, Cedric, born 16 November 1990, and Cameron, born 18 June 1992. With his marriage to Miyako Yamada he has a stepson, Daisuke and a granddaughter, Momoe.




http://www.holkham.co.uk/


Holkham Hall is an 18th-century country house located adjacent to the village of Holkham, Norfolk, England. The house was constructed in the Palladian style for Thomas Coke, 1st Earl of Leicester (fifth creation) by the architect William Kent, aided by the architect and aristocrat Lord Burlington.

Holkham Hall is one of England's finest examples of the Palladian revival style of architecture, and severity of its design is closer to Palladio's ideals than many of the other numerous Palladian style houses of the period. The Holkham estate, formerly known as Neals, had been purchased in 1609 by Sir Edward Coke, the founder of his family fortune. It is the ancestral home of the Coke family, the Earls of Leicester of Holkham.






The interior of the hall is opulently but, by the standards of the day, simply decorated and furnished. Ornament is used with such restraint that it was possible to decorate both private and state rooms in the same style, without oppressing the former. The principal entrance is through the "Marble" Hall, which leads to the piano nobile, or the first floor, and state rooms. The most impressive of these rooms is the saloon, which has walls lined with red velvet. Each of the major state rooms is symmetrical in its layout and design; in some rooms, false doors are necessary to fully achieve this balanced effect.






Holkham was built by first Earl of Leicester, Thomas Coke, who was born in 1697. A cultivated and wealthy man, Coke made the Grand Tour in his youth and was away from England for six years between 1712 and 1718. It is likely he met both Burlington—the aristocratic architect at the forefront of the Palladian revival movement in England—and William Kent in Italy in 1715, and that in the home of Palladianism the idea of the mansion at Holkham was conceived. Coke returned to England, not only with a newly acquired library, but also an art and sculpture collection with which to furnish his planned new mansion. However, after his return, he lived a feckless life, preoccupying himself with drinking, gambling and hunting, and being a leading supporter of cockfighting. He made a disastrous investment in the South Sea Company and when the South Sea Bubble burst in 1720, the resultant losses delayed the building of Coke's planned new country estate for over ten years. Coke, who had been made Earl of Leicester in 1744, died in 1759—five years before the completion of Holkham—having never fully recovered his financial losses. Thomas's wife, Lady Margaret Tufton, Countess of Leicester (1700–1775), would oversee the finishing and furnishing of the House.






Although Colen Campbell was employed by Thomas Coke in the early 1720s, the oldest existing working and construction plans for Holkham were drawn by Matthew Brettingham, under the supervision of Thomas Coke, in 1726. These followed the guidelines and ideals for the house as defined by Kent and Burlington. The Palladian revival style chosen was at this time making its return in England. The style made a brief appearance in England before the Civil War, when it was introduced by Inigo Jones.  However, following the Restoration it was replaced in popular favour by the Baroque style. The "Palladian revival", popular in the 18th century, was loosely based on the appearance of the works of the 16th-century Italian architect Andrea Palladio. However it did not, adhere to Palladio's strict rules of proportion. The style eventually evolved into what is generally referred to as Georgian, still popular in England today. It was the chosen style for numerous houses in both town and country, although Holkham is exceptional for both its severity of design and for being closer than most in its adherence to Palladio's ideals.

Although Thomas Coke oversaw the project, he delegated the on-site architectural duties to the local Norfolk architect Matthew Brettingham, who was employed as the on-site clerk of works. Brettingham was already the estate architect, and was in receipt of £50 a year (about 7,000 pounds per year in 2014 terms  in return for "taking care of his Lordship's buildings". William Kent was mainly responsible for the interiors of the Southwest pavilion, or family wing block, particularly the Long Library. Kent produced a variety of alternative exteriors, suggesting a far richer decoration than Coke wanted. Brettingham described the building of Holkham as "the great work of [my life]", and when he published his "The Plans and Elevations of the late Earl of Leicester's House at Holkham", he immodestly described himself as sole architect, making no mention of Kent's involvement. However, in a later edition of the book, Brettingham's son admitted that "the general idea was first struck out by the Earls of Leicester and Burlington, assisted by Mr. William Kent".

In 1734, the first foundations were laid; however, building was to continue for thirty years, until the completion of the great house in 1764.

The Palladian style was admired by Whigs such as Thomas Coke, who sought to identify themselves with the Romans of antiquity. Kent was responsible for the external appearance of Holkham; he based his design on Palladio's unbuilt Villa Mocenigo,] as it appears in I Quattro Libri dell'Architettura, but with modifications.

The plans for Holkham were of a large central block of two floors only, containing on the piano nobile level a series of symmetrically balanced state rooms situated around two courtyards. No hint of these courtyards is given externally; they are intended for lighting rather than recreation or architectural value. This great central block is flanked by four smaller, rectangular blocks, or wings, and at each corners is linked to the main house not by long colonnades—as would have been the norm in Palladian architecture—but by short two-storey wings of only one bay.

The external appearance of Holkham can best be described as a huge Roman palace. However, as with most architectural designs, it is never quite that simple. Holkham is a Palladian house, and yet even by Palladian standards the external appearance is austere and devoid of ornamentation. This can almost certainly be traced to Coke himself. The on-site, supervising architect, Matthew Brettingham, related that Coke required and demanded "commodiousness", which can be interpreted as comfort. Hence rooms that were adequately lit by one window, had only one, as a second might have improved the external appearance but could have made a room cold or draughty. As a result the few windows on the piano nobile, although symmetrically placed and balanced, appear lost in a sea of brickwork; albeit these yellow bricks were cast as exact replicas of ancient Roman bricks expressly for Holkham. Above the windows of the piano nobile, where on a true Palladian structure the windows of a mezzanine would be, there is nothing. The reason for this is the double height of the state rooms on the piano nobile; however, not even a blind window, such as those often seen in Palladio's own work, is permitted to alleviate the severity of the facade. On the ground floor, the rusticated walls are pierced by small windows more reminiscent of a prison than a grand house. One architectural commentator, Nigel Nicolson, has described the house as appearing as functional as a Prussian riding school.

The principal, or South facade, is 344 feet (104.9 m) in length (from each of the flanking wings to the other), its austerity relieved on the piano nobile level only by a great six-columned portico. Each end of the central block is terminated by a slight projection, containing a Venetian window surmounted by a single storey square tower and capped roof, similar to those employed by Inigo Jones at Wilton House nearly a century earlier. A near identical portico was designed by Inigo Jones and Isaac de Caus for the Palladian front at Wilton, but this was never executed.

The flanking wings contain service and secondary rooms—the family wing to the south-west; the guest wing to the north-west; the chapel wing to the south-east; and the kitchen wing to the north-east. Each wing's external appearance is identical: three bays, each separated from the other by a narrow recess in the elevation. Each bay is surmounted by an unadorned pediment. The composition of stone, recesses, varying pediments and chimneys of the four blocks is almost reminiscent of the English Baroque style in favour ten years earlier, employed at Seaton Delaval Hall by Sir John Vanbrugh. One of these wings, as at the later Kedleston Hall, was a self-contained country house to accommodate the family when the state rooms and central block were not in use.

The one storey porch at the main north entrance was designed in the 1850s by Samuel Sanders Teulon, although stylistically it is indistinguishable from the 18th century building.

Inside the house, the Palladian form reaches a height and grandeur seldom seen in any other house in England. It has, in fact, been described as "The finest Palladian interior in England."[20] The grandeur of the interior is obtained with an absence of excessive ornament, and reflects Kent's career-long taste for "the eloquence of a plain surface". Work on the interiors ran from 1739 to 1773. The first habitable rooms were in the family wing and were in use from 1740, the Long Library being the first major interior completed in 1741. Among the last to be completed and entirely under Lady Leicester's supervision is the Chapel with its alabaster reredos. The house is entered through the "Marble" Hall (the chief building fabric is in fact Derbyshire alabaster), modelled by Kent on a Roman basilica. The room is over 50 feet (15 m) from floor to ceiling and is dominated by the broad white marble flight of steps leading to the surrounding gallery, or peristyle: here alabaster Ionic columns support the coffered, gilded ceiling, copied from a design by Inigo Jones, inspired by the Pantheon in Rome. The fluted columns are thought to be replicas of those in the Temple of Fortuna Virilis, also in Rome. Around the hall are statues in niches; these are predominantly plaster copies of classical deities.

The hall's flight of steps lead to the piano nobile and state rooms. The grandest, the saloon, is situated immediately behind the great portico, with its walls lined with patterned red Genoa velvet and a coffered, gilded ceiling. In this room hangs Rubens's Return from Egypt. On his Grand Tour, the Earl acquired a collection of Roman copies of Greek and Roman sculpture which is contained in the massive "Statue Gallery", which runs the full length of the house north to south. The North Dining Room, a cube room of 27 feet (8.2 m) contains an Axminster carpet that perfectly mirrors the pattern of the ceiling above. A bust of Aelius Verus, set in a niche in the wall of this room, was found during the restoration at Nettuno. A classical apse gives the room an almost temple air. The apse in fact, contains concealed access to the labyrinth of corridors and narrow stairs that lead to the distant kitchens and service areas of the house. Each corner of the east side of the principal block contains a square salon lit by a huge Venetian window, one of them—the Landscape Room—hung with paintings by Claude Lorrain and Gaspar Poussin. All of the major state rooms have symmetrical walls, even where this involves matching real with false doors. The major rooms also have elaborate white and multi-coloured marble fireplaces, most with carvings and sculpture, mainly the work of Thomas Carter, though Joseph Pickford carved the fireplace in the Statue Gallery. Much of the furniture in the state rooms was also designed by William Kent, in a stately classicising baroque manner.

So restrained is the interior decoration of the state rooms, or in the words of James Lees-Milne, "chaste", that the smaller, more intimate rooms in the family's private south-west wing were decorated in similar vein, without being overpowering. The long library running the full length of the wing still contains the collection of books acquired by Thomas Coke on his Grand Tour through Italy, where he saw for the first time the Palladian villas which were to inspire Holkham.

The Green State bedroom is the principal bedroom; it is decorated with paintings and tapestries, including works by Paul Saunders and George Smith Bradshaw. It is said that when Queen Mary visited, Gavin Hamilton's "lewd" depiction of Jupiter Caressing Juno "was considered unsuitable for that lady's eyes and was banished to the attics"

The Origin of Neckties. VÍDEO TIME in "Tweedland".

The Diary of a Nobody, by the brothers George and Weedon Grossmith

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"Why should I not publish my diary? I have often seen reminiscences of people I have never even heard of, and I fail to see—because I do not happen to be a 'Somebody'—why my diary should not be interesting."

The preface to book editions of The Diary of a Nobody, wherein "Charles Pooter" announces his intentions
The Diary of a Nobody is an English comic novel written by the brothers George and Weedon Grossmith, with illustrations by the latter. It originated as an intermittent serial in Punch magazine in 1888–89 and first appeared in book form, with extended text and added illustrations, in 1892. The Diary records the daily events in the lives of a London clerk, Charles Pooter, his wife Carrie, his son Lupin, and numerous friends and acquaintances over a period of 15 months.

Before their collaboration on the Diary, the brothers each pursued successful careers on the stage. George originated nine of the principal comedian roles in the Gilbert and Sullivan operas over 12 years from 1877 to 1889. He also established a national reputation as a piano sketch entertainer and wrote a large number of songs and comic pieces. Before embarking on his stage career, Weedon had worked as an artist and illustrator. The Diary was the brothers' only mature collaboration. Most of its humour derives from Charles Pooter's unconscious and unwarranted sense of his own importance, and the frequency with which this delusion is punctured by gaffes and minor social humiliations. In an era of rising expectations within the lower-middle classes, the daily routines and modest ambitions described in the Diary were instantly recognised by its contemporary readers, and provided later generations with a glimpse of the past that it became fashionable to imitate.

Although its initial public reception was muted, the Diary came to be recognised by critics as a classic work of humour, and it has never been out of print. It helped to establish a genre of humorous popular fiction based on lower or lower-middle class aspirations, and was the forerunner of numerous fictitious diary novels in the later 20th century. The Diary has been the subject of several stage and screen adaptations, including Ken Russell's "silent film" treatment of 1964, a four-part TV film scripted by Andrew Davies in 2007, and a widely praised stage version in 2011, in which an all-male cast of three played all the parts.
George  and Weedon Grossmith

July 2, 2000


I Yield to Nobody

 As much as I liked ''Topsy-Turvy,'' Mike Leigh's movie about Gilbert and Sullivan, I did find one thing about it unsettling. Who was that diminutive, pallid, pince-nez-wearing and rather epicene actor in the D'Oyly Carte opera company, the one who was shown in his dressing room tearfully jabbing his needle-scarred forearm with a hypo full of heroin? After I noticed the other characters in the film address this fellow first as ''Mr. Grossmith'' and then as ''George,'' the penny dropped: Why, that must be George Grossmith -- the man who, after chucking his career with Gilbert and Sullivan, went on to write a book that I cherish above all others, a book that I have repeatedly rejoiced in reading, a book that has been my prop and stay in troubled times: ''The Diary of a Nobody.''

I am hardly alone in rating ''The Diary of a Nobody'' a singular work of genius. From the time it was published in 1892 (with illustrations by George Grossmith's brother, Weedon), it began to collect enthusiastic admirers. Hilaire Belloc deemed it ''one of the half-dozen immortal achievements of our time . . . a glory for us all.'' It was a favorite of T. S. Eliot and John Betjeman. Evelyn Waugh declared it to be ''the funniest book in the world'' and had his character Lady Marchmain read passages from it aloud to her family in ''Brideshead Revisited.''

''The Diary of a Nobody'' began as a series in the English humor magazine Punch in the late 1880's. The entries were supposedly written by one Charles Pooter, a bearded, frock-coated, middle-aged clerk who worked in an old-fashioned City of London firm and lived in a tidy little house in the suburb of Holloway. ''Why should I not publish my diary?'' he asks at the outset. ''I have often seen reminiscences of people I have never even heard of, and I fail to see -- because I do not happen to be a 'Somebody' -- why my diary should not be interesting.'' Pooter meticulously records his little experiments in home improvement, his encounters with impertinent tradespeople, his anxieties over the antics of his rapscallion son, Lupin, his tender (if occasionally strained) moments with his dear little wife, Carrie, his social evenings at home with his bosom friends Mr. Cummings and Mr. Gowing -- all the small triumphs and minor humiliations and homely pleasures of everyday life as lived in a lower-middle-class household in the late Victorian era.

Pooter is rather dim. He is also priggish, gullible and anxious about keeping up appearances. Little mishaps mar his days (''May 30. . . . As I heard the 'bus coming, I left with a hurried kiss -- a little too hurried, perhaps, for my upper lip came in contact with Carrie's teeth and slightly cut it. It was quite painful for an hour afterwards.'') Though he is unable to laugh at his own absurdity, he piques himself on his humor and is given to laborious puns:

''May 25. Carrie brought down some of my shirts and advised me to take them to Trillip's round the corner. She said: 'The fronts and cuffs are much frayed.' I said without a moment's hesitation: 'I'm frayed they are.' Lor! how we roared. I thought we should never stop laughing. As I happened to be sitting next the driver going to town on the 'bus, I told him my joke about the 'frayed' shirts. I thought he would have rolled off his seat. They laughed at the office a good bit too over it.

''May 26. Left the shirts to be repaired at Trillip's. I said to him: 'I'm 'fraid they are frayed.' He said, without a smile: 'They're bound to do that, sir.' Some people seem to be quite destitute of a sense of humor.''

The quiet reproofs by which Pooter intends to preserve his self-importance never quite come off. (When a cheeky office boy tells him to keep his hair on, Pooter gravely informs him that ''I had had the honor of being in the firm 20 years, to which he insolently replied that I 'looked it.''') Such is his sense of petit-bourgeois propriety that he is unable to acknowledge the cause of his occasional hangovers, blaming not the dubious Champagne he thriftily favors (''Jackson Frères'' from the grocer around the corner) but the ''unsettled weather'' or having been ''poisoned by some lobster.''

Of the three humorous character types found in literature -- the comic rogue, the comic butt and the solemn fool -- Pooter comes closest to the third type, which, I would argue, is generally the most amusing. Nothing is funnier than solemnity. But if Pooter inspires mirth in the reader, he also elicits an equal measure of affection. He may be hedged about by absurdity, but he is a thoroughly decent man, touching in his anxiety to do the right thing. He is honest, loyal and kind. His diary is suffused with sweet suburban wisdom. When his son announces what seems to be a premature engagement to a doubtfully suitable woman, Pooter records the following:

''Carrie and I talked the matter over during the evening, and agreed that it did not always follow that an early engagement meant an unhappy marriage. Dear Carrie reminded me that we married early, and, with the exception of a few trivial misunderstandings, we had never had a really serious word. I could not help thinking (as I told her) that half the pleasures of life were derived from the little struggles and small privations that one had to endure at the beginning of one's married life. . . .

''Carrie said I had expressed myself wonderfully well, and that I was quite a philosopher.''

It is little wonder that this oddly dignified embodiment of Everyman has stamped the English language with his own adjective: ''Pooterish.'' (This, by the way, is one of some 20 coinages that the Oxford English Dictionary attributes to ''The Diary of a Nobody,'' along with ''I've got the chuck!'' for being fired from one's job; ''a good address''; and ''bread-pills'' for those little missiles sometimes launched across the dinner table.) What is a wonderment is how George Grossmith (1847-1912), Pooter's creator, could himself have been the highly un-Pooterish chap depicted in ''Topsy-Turvy'' -- a drug-addicted thespian, no less. My curiosity having been aroused by the film, I did a little digging into Grossmith's life (courtesy of the New York Public Library's splendid performing arts collection). I discovered that he was indeed short, pale and rather severe-looking in his pince-nez; that according to one contemporary, he had a ''dry, odd manner''; and that according to another, he did resort to drugs to steady his stage nerves, his arms being spotted with unsightly needle marks as a result. Beyond that, however, there was nothing the least bit lugubrious about him. To the contrary, he seems to have been a model of Victorian robustness, energy and cheer. When he wasn't creating the great roles in the Gilbert and Sullivan repertory -- the Lord Chancellor in ''Iolanthe,'' Sir Joseph Porter in ''H.M.S. Pinafore,'' Ko-Ko in ''The Mikado'' -- he was tearing about the British Isles with his piano in a one-man ''Humorous and Musical Recital.'' When he performed in New York in 1892, the critic for The New York Herald wrote: ''Two minutes after the dapper little fellow, typically English in manner and voice, but extremely modest and pleasing in his address, had appeared onstage, a broad smile crept over the faces of the audience. It stayed there all evening.'' Known familiarly as Gee Gee, he was a clubbable fellow, entertaining at his home on Dorset Square such contemporaries as Whistler, Wilde and Marie Corelli. He loved lawn tennis, skating and fishing. He was happily married, the father of four children, one of whom, Gee Gee Jr., was to become a leading Londonstage figure in his own right.

Grossmith seems to have regarded ''The Diary of a Nobody'' as something tossed off in an idle moment, never giving it publicly so much as a mention. But whereas his greatness as a performer was bound to fade with time, the ''Diary,'' as the foreword to the 1945 Penguin edition put it, ''lives on in print to be read anew by generation after generation, exactly as it was written.''

Or does it? Today, I am afraid, ''The Diary of a Nobody'' falls into that sad category, Forgotten Masterpieces. A few people still read it in England, where it has been dramatized on television and radio and has inspired many imitators (of which ''Bridget Jones's Diary,'' by Helen Fielding, might be counted as one of the more successful). But in the United States it is all but unknown. Although a couple of paperback editions remain in print, I have not seen a copy in a Manhattanbookstore in the last decade. Few of my literary friends, even the Anglophiles among them, profess to have heard of it. Whenever I attempt to use the word ''Pooterish'' in an article, some damned ignorant editor always takes it out. Academic lit-crit types have shown scant interest in the ''Diary,'' despite its wealth of what I suppose must be called ''cultural signifiers'' -- popular song titles, references to late Victorian fads like spiritualism, clues to the ideology of home and marriage at the dawn of suburbia.


Indeed, ''The Diary of a Nobody'' is the first real critique of suburban life, at least as it was lived in the miles and miles of little red-brick houses that began to swallow up the countryside around London in the 19th century. But unlike the later literature of suburbia -- with its tiresome emphasis on soul-numbing banality and, especially these days, gruesome dysfunction -- Pooter's jottings manage to convey the essential wholesomeness of suburban folkways. Despite his limited vision, he is a noble character, precariously striving to uphold propriety in the face of a rude world. (''I left the room with silent dignity, but caught my foot in the mat.'') So, when it comes to choosing an existential hero, you can take Nietzsche's Zarathustra, or Proust's Marcel, or even Roth's Zuckerman, thank you very much. I'll plump for Pooter. 

"It is not so funny that an occasional interruption would be resented, and such thread of story as runs through it can be grasped and followed without much strain on the attention ... it is rather difficult to get really interested in the sayings and doings of either the Pooter family or their friends."

Review of The Diary of a Nobody, The Literary World, 29 July 1892


 The Diary made its initial appearance as an intermittent serial in the satirical weekly magazine Punch. The first of the 26 instalments was announced in the issue of 26 May 1888 with a brief editorial note: "As everybody who is anybody is publishing Reminiscences, Diaries, Notes, Autobiographies, and Recollections, we are sincerely grateful to 'A Nobody' for permitting us to add to the historic collection". The diary entry dates are several weeks behind the dates on which they appear in Punch. The Punch serialisation ended in May 1889 with the diary entry for 21 March, which records the Pooters and their friends celebrating the minor triumph of Lupin's appointment as a clerk at Perkupps. That was the intended end of the diary; however, when the writers were preparing the manuscript for publication as a book, they added a further four months' entries to the text, and included 26 illustrations by Weedon Grossmith.

In June 1892 J.W. Arrowsmith Ltd published the Diary in book form, although its critical and popular success was not evident until the third edition appeared in October 1910. After the First World War the book's popularity continued to grow; regular reprintings and new editions ensured that thereafter the book was never out of print. Audiobook versions have been available since 1982. The writer Robert McCrum, in a personal list of "The 100 greatest novels of all time" published in The Observer newspaper, listed the Diary at number 35.
 The Punch serialisation attracted little critical comment; The Athenaeum '​s literary critic thought the series "may have escaped unnoticed amid better jokes". When the Diary was published as a book, Punch heralded it in its issue of 23 July 1892 as "very funny", adding: "not without a touch of pathos". However, apart from a warmly approving report in The Saturday Review, the book's initial critical reception was lukewarm. The Review '​s critic thought the book "admirable, and in some of its touches [it] goes close to genius", with a natural and irresistible appeal: "The Diary has amused us from cover to cover". This contrasted with the negative judgement of The Athenaeum, which opined that "the book has no merit to compensate for its hopeless vulgarity, not even that of being amusing". It questioned the tastefulness of jokes aimed almost exclusively at the poverty of underpaid city clerks, and concluded: "Besides, it is all so dull". The Speaker '​s critic thought the book "a study in vulgarity", while The New York Times, reviewing the first American edition, found the work largely incomprehensible: "There is that kind of quiet, commonplace, everyday joking in it which we are to suppose is highly satisfactory to our cousins across the water ... Our way of manufacturing fun is different".Although details of sales figures are not given, Arrowsmiths later acknowledged that the early editions of the book did not have a wide public impact.

A CLASSIC--BETTER PERFORMED THAN READ--THE FIRST OF LONDONSOCIAL SATIRE
By Harold Wolf TOP 50 REVIEWER on July 23, 2009
Format: DVD

Mr. Charles Pooter, the diary author in "THE DIARY OF A NOBODY", is a nobody, but he simply fails to notice. He is content with life, almost. He presents his diary in a verbal (in this DVD)format, speaking directly to the camera. He most enthusiastically orates about his common middle-class social and family events (the very ones he's written in the diary.) He feels assured the world will eventually enjoy his written diary--when published. Is he the Suburban Snob of 1892? Certainly it's perfected pompousness.

I can not imagine "THE DIARY OF A NOBODY" being as funny without hearing and seeing Pooter (Hugh Bonneville) presenting the diary in dialogue. It's strictly British humor, but at it's Victorian finest. Bonneville's ability to project emotion and expressions is near perfection. Hugh Bonneville can say as much with a lifted eyebrow, an eye roll, a gesture, or a voice change, as what is provided in the script.

In Pooter's written (spoken in this DVD version) accounts, he makes the occasional joke--usually unappreciated by others. A time or two Pooter laughs so hard at his own merriment that he resembles Red Skelton's famous moments of belly-laughing at his own humor.

Pooter loves his 'Home Sweet Home' which is near the rail tracks. He had just moved into the new rental as the diary began, April of 1891. The diary ends in May of 1892. The home is called The Laurels (even though it has no laurels growing, but Pooter and his wife, Carrie, might plant some). It is London, suburbia, Victorian, and the train traffic makes the house quake frequently. But Pooter adjusts. The many views of the 6 or 7 rooms, as well as Pooter's employment location, provides a complete, delightful look at London Victorian living in a middle-class dwelling. Furnished with period pieces and accents, right down to the tea cups and boot scrapper (which is a constant complaint). And the Christmas holiday tops off the Victorian aesthetics. WOW!

So what does Pooter write about? Lupin, the not-so-perfect son and his engagement with a not-so-perfect, older, fatter, uglier, Miss Daisy Mutlar. Spouse spats. His boss, Mr. Perkupp, and Pooter's downns and upps with Perkupp. Social engagements gone afoul or well. Costs, especially with drinks. Stocks, encouraged by his son. Bad lobsters. Friends, Cummings and Gowing, and their comings and goings. And that darn boot scrapper.

The DVD features explained that the term "Pooterism" (taking oneself too seriously) evolved from this work first published in a magazine (1888), then book in 1882 (still in print today), this film via BBC (2007), and now this DVD. The book was written by brothers, George & Weedon Grossmith, biography also in the bonus stuff.
Plus more, but no subtitles--BOOGER!

4 episodes totaling just shy of two hours. In the end my wife and I had enjoyed actor, Hugh Bonneville, as Charles Pooter so much, we finally ceased smiling and laughing. Why? It was over. Sad to see it end.

If you like the subtlety of British comedy, then you'll LOVE this CLASSIC British humor book brought to film/DVD. An astonishing one man show. Listen to Pooter's words, watch him, "For he's the jolly good fellow."



Sixth series of hit TV drama series Downton Abbey commissioned by ITV

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Sixth series of hit TV drama series Downton Abbey commissioned by ITV
ITV and Carnival Films, the producers of Downton Abbey, said that production will begin early next year.


“We have had an amazing reaction to the story lines, acting and production values of Downton Abbey this year and the whole team is thrilled to be moving ahead with a new season of the show.

This will provide audiences with a fresh opportunity to see what will befall our much loved characters.”

        CARNIVAL’S MANAGING DIRECTOR, GARETH NEAME
         
The globally successful and multi award-winning series, debuted on ITV in 2010 and has since been sold to over 250 territories worldwide.

“It is fantastic that Downton continues to be such a phenomenon - still the most popular drama on ITV in its fifth series - and we are thrilled to have commissioned a sixth series.

We don't know yet what Julian has planned, but we are looking forward to working with him, the fantastic cast and Carnival again and have no doubt series six will be unmissable.”
– ITV’S DIRECTOR OF DRAMA COMMISSIONING, STEVE NOVEMBER

The fifth season, which comes to an end on November 9, has been watched by an average of 10.4 million based on consolidated data per episode and will return at Christmas for a festive edition of the drama.

Last updated Fri 7 Nov 2014


"ICH DIEN"

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For many years I have been following the serious and coherent path that the Prince of Wales has pursued, developing his true and genuine interests and worries in the fields of Architecture, Urbanism, Ecology, Biological Agriculture , Alternative Medicine, etc.,
Paradoxally, for many years he has been one of the lesser known persons in the World despite the way he has been continuously exposed to the outrageous manipulations of the tabloid Press … Now, finally, the tide is turning, and recognition is coming to the achievements and the deep sense of duty and `oblige`of this remarkable man …
Yours .... Jeeves / António Sérgio Rosa de Carvalho / Architectural Historian.

Prince Charles says people's connection with countryside is dying.

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Prince Charles says people's connection with countryside is dying
Magazine column by heir calls for people to value ‘landscapes, farmers, villages and pubs’ or risk losing them

Press Association

Prince Charles has warned that the majority of people have “lost any real connection with the land” as he outlined his concerns about the future of the countryside.

The Prince of Wales, writing in a foreword for Country Life magazine to mark his 66th birthday this week, argued that many people were four or more generations removed from those who worked on the land and it showed in their attitudes.

Many only had a “vague understanding” of farming and were increasingly suspicious of it, the heir to the throne said.

Charles maintained that people still treasured the countryside and urged them to value it or risk losing its landscapes, farmers, village pubs and local foods.

“One of the things that strikes me most forcibly is the extent to which the majority of the population has lost any real connection with the land,” he wrote.

“Unlike in most parts of the continent of Europe, many people in the UK are now four or more generations removed from anyone who actually worked on the land – and it frequently shows in their attitudes.

“They have only a vague understanding of what farming is or does; and, as outsiders looking in, they are increasingly suspicious of it. At the same time, they treasure the countryside.

“The rich, natural tapestry that is the countryside we value so highly does not just happen by itself. But that delicately woven tapestry is facing unprecedented challenges.

“Start pulling out the threads and the rest unravels very rapidly indeed, and is very difficult to put back again – no farmers, no beautiful landscapes with hedgerows and stone walls; no thriving rural communities, no villages or village pubs; no local markets, no distinctive local foods. Somehow we need to find a way to put a value on our countryside, with all its facets.”

The Prince guest-edited the weekly magazine last year to mark his 65th birthday. He turns 66 on Friday.

Charles highlighted the importance of farmers, insisting: “I simply cannot see a viable future for the countryside that does not have the farmer – and the family farmer is a vital element in this – as food producer, at the front and centre of the picture.

“It would not only be a folly to lose agricultural land, it would be equally foolish to use it in ways that are not environmentally sustainable in the long term.”

He stressed the benefits to the wider economy of the countryside’s “ecosystem services” – with meadows and other grasslands storing millions of tonnes of carbon, providing homes for pollinating insects, supporting the agricultural economy and areas of beauty attracting visitors to boost local tourism.

Mark Hedges, editor of Country Life, said: “We are delighted that the prince agreed to mark his 66th birthday by writing a powerful leader on the importance of preserving the countryside and its way of life.

“The prince has a deep understanding and connection with every aspect of people working and living in rural Britain, from highlighting the hardship facing hill farmers who, last year, earned on average £8,000 to the 60,000 new entrants needed in the UK farming sector to secure its future, to the importance of preserving village schools, pubs and shops at the heart of country communities.”


The Prince’s Countryside Fund, which was established in 2010, has provided £4.4m in grants to those who care for the countryside.

Sherlock Holmes in London: 'The man who never lived and will never die'

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The world-wide fascination in Sherlock Holmes' tweed cape
By Steven McKenzie
BBCScotlandHighlands and Islandsreporter / http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-29879309

The organisers of a Scottish fashion event have announced plans to reinvigorate interest in the Inverness cape, a sleeveless tweed overcoat made famous by Sherlock Holmes.

Highlands Fashion Week will officially launch its Bring Back The Cape (BBTC) project on its website on 4 December.

Describing it as an "exclusive" and "secret" project, the organisers have said that they hope to revamp the clothing that is usually worn with a kilt and "make it current".

For hundreds of people across the world, the cape as worn by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's famous fictional sleuth, continues to have great appeal.
How the popular image of Sherlock Holmes' look came about is a curious case.

The illustrated monthly magazine, The Strand, printed many of Conan Doyle's mysteries in the 1890s, with the author's words accompanied by engravings by talented Finchley-based artist Sidney Paget.

According to The Sherlock Holmes Society of London, it was Paget who gave the detective his "now iconic image" - the "hawk-like features, deerstalker cap and Invernesscape".

Paget produced 201 Sherlock Holmes's illustrations between 1891 and 1893 and a further 155 between 1901 and 1904.

But Paget had been sent the commission for the artwork by mistake.

Pinacotheca Holmesiana, a website dedicated to Sherlock stories and illustrations, said the job was meant for his younger brother Walter.

Walter still managed to put his stamp on the sleuth. He modelled for his brother's illustrations for the magazine.

Decades later, in television adaptations of the stories, the cape and cap continued to be a key part of Sherlock's wardrobe.

More recent TV portrayals, such as BBC's Sherlock and CBS series Elementary, have since restyled the detective.

In Sherlock, Benedict Cumberbatch's character wears a Belstaff Milford Coat - a heavy, wool tweed overcoat first made in the 1920s and inspired by the late 19th Century great coat.

Yet the image of Holmes in an Inverness cape of more than 120 years ago endures.
Mister Antony (Inverness Cape Specialists) in Newton Mearns, near Glasgow, makes Inverness raincapes in various waterproof fabrics for pipe bands all over the world.

About 90% of the business's work is concerned with manufacturing this garment for pipers and drummers.

In 2003, the firm developed a new waterproof cape called the Bandspec Raincape. The company worked with Robert Mathieson, at the time pipe major with Shotts and Dykehead Caledonia Pipe Band, on the new design.

Sherlock outfit
The Museum of Londonhas a new exhibition on Sherlock Holmes
Mister Antony is also one of the few business that makes and supplies traditional wool and Harris Tweed Inverness capes to "professional, discerning" customers.

The patterns on offer include stony blue fleck, grey herringbone and brown and tan houndstooth.

Antony Mistofsky, who has run the firm for 32 years and whose family has been making waterproof clothing for more than 100 years, said the custom-made items represented "a specialised, niche market".

He said: "It would be fair to say that they are not a big selling item.

"We sell hundreds and not thousands of them. They can cost upwards from £600 depending on what the customer wants."

Mr Mistofsky added: "We export them all over the world. Sixty to 70% of the woollen capes are exported, mainly to the USA.

"The customers who want these items are mainly professional individuals - lawyers and doctors, a High Court judge - and they buy either to wear with a kilt or as an alternative to a heavy overcoat."

'Global icon'
A few of those buying the woollen capes also have a keen interest in Sherlock Holmes, he said.

Other InvernessCapeenthusiasts include fans of steampunk, a genre that mixes Victorian-style clothing with science-fiction technology and draws inspiration from writers such as HG Wells. Various online retailers offer the capes in colours suited to steampunk aficionados.

Highlands Fashion Week's BBTC project, meanwhile, is timely.

Last month, Museum of Londonopened the exhibition Sherlock Holmes: The Man Who Never Lived and Will Never Die.

It features displays of Conan Doyle manuscripts, copies of The Strand and some of the 27 surviving original drawings Paget did for the magazine stories.

The museum also commissioned a new tweed of a design and colour inspired by the trademark deerstalker and cape.

Alex Werner, head of history collections at the museum, said: "Sherlock Holmes is a global icon indelibly linked with London, so it is fitting that we are able to host this major celebration of Conan Doyle's creation at the Museum of London.

"This exhibition is really about gaining a deeper appreciation of the stories and it is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see such a diverse collection of Sherlock Holmes artefacts and material under one roof."

The museum exhibition runs until April next year, while Highlands Fashion Week takes place in Invernessnext month.


Sherlock Holmes in London: 'The man who never lived and will never die'
A new Sherlock Holmes exhibition at the Museum of Londonlooks at the life and times of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's eccentric creation

Sherrinford Holmes, consulting detective, and Ormond Sacker, medical doctor, sharing lodgings at No 221b Upper Baker Street. There they were in black and white, brought to life in a masculine hand on a sheet of paper now on display in the Museum of London.
'That’s the Holy of Holies for Sherlockians,’ murmured Alex Werner, the Head of History Collections at the museum, 'the first notes for A Study in Scarlet.’
Sherrinford and Ormond! What a lucky escape that was, chaps. But escape they did, only to reappear – now named Sherlock Holmes and John Watson and living in plain old Baker Street – in the pages of Beeton’s Christmas Annual 1887. They have gone on to enjoy stellar careers on the page, on the stage, in film and in television, right up to Benedict Cumberbatch’s Belstaff coat-wearing cyber-geek of today.
The exhibition Werner has created, Sherlock Holmes: The Man Who Never Lived and Will Never Die, examines the extraordinary longevity of Arthur Conan Doyle’s fictional creation and in particular the vital, filthy, teeming metropolis of Victorian London that spawned him.
He emerged when the London CID was about ten years old and New Scotland Yard was under construction, when forensic science was in its infancy and the concept of a detective, fictional or not, was still a novelty. People were reading as they had never read before. A few months later, Jack the Ripper started his grim work in the East End.
To enter the exhibition you push open bookshelves packed with the sort of tomes the Great Detective would have used for reference – plus one or two of his own works, such as The Tracing of Footsteps – to find banks of screens flickering with his moving image in black-and-white, later in colour.
A soundscape evokes London at the turn of the twentieth century and includes the voice of William Gillette, one of the first actors to play Holmes on stage. It complements a film of jerky omnibuses, their tops thicketed with bowlers, boaters and toppers, of horses, urchins and braziers, of Nestle advertisements and familiar, if smoke-blackened, buildings.
It’s worth going just for the prints and paintings, some released from private collections for the exhibition, revealing London in all its grimy glory. There are wonderful maps, including sections of Charles Booth’s 1889 poverty map showing Baker Street and its environs, which vary from red (well-to-do) to yellow (outright rich), and there’s a portrait of Arthur Conan Doyle in his prime; a vigorous-looking man, burly, with a fine waxed moustache and a challenging gaze.
Then there is stuff, lots of it, arranged to represent five Holmesian attributes: the analytical mind, the forensic scientist, the master of disguise, the Bohemian, and the model Englishman. You can find everything from a phrenology model – skull shape was thought to express character, especially criminal – to a fingerprint set from the Galton Archive, from an Ulster, or caped coat, to the deerstalker hat introduced by the definitive Holmes illustrator, Sydney Paget.
There’s a fiddle ('We decided not to source a Strad,’ said Werner, a little wistfully), a pair of boxing gloves, a syringe for the 7% solution of cocaine used by Holmes in his Bohemian, between-cases moods, stage make-up and a wig used by the actor-manager Henry Irving.
And finally, there is his last bow, the high-drama denouement with… but I don’t want to give the game away. Stride along and see it for yourself. As long as you’ve got a head for heights, that is.

"Sherlock Holmes: The Man Who Never Lived And Will Never Die" runs from October 17 2014 to April 12 2015 at the Museum of London (020 7001 9844; museumoflondon.org.uk). From £10.90 adults, £9 concessions and children aged 12 to 15 and £8.50 for family tickets (with at least one adult and one child). Friends and under 12s go free.







Savile Row tailor fears overseas threat to rich tapestry of tradition. Dege & Skinner / Savile Row.

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Peter Ward, production director at Dege & Skinner, Saville Row, making a suit. Photograph: Graham Turner for the Guardian
Savile Row tailor fears overseas threat to rich tapestry of tradition

Shirtmaker believes buyouts detract from street’s fashion cachet, with only two family-owned tailoring houses left on Savile Row
Karl West

Robert Whittaker traces his razor sharp knife around a paper template to cut a perfect shoulder panel for a cotton shirt.

Whittaker, 61, is one of a dying breed – skilled craftsmen who precisely measure and cut shirts for the rich, the famous and royalty.

He has been cutting shirts since 1968, leaving school at 15 to learn his trade on Jermyn Street in Mayfair, central London. He has worked at Dege & Skinner, the Savile Row tailoring house, since 1992 making shirts costing from £234-£450 each – and there is a minimum order of four.

Dege & Skinner is one of only two family-owned tailoring houses (along with Henry Poole & Co) left on Savile Row, which has been at the heart of London’s bespoke tailoring business for more than a century. Next year marks Dege & Skinner’s 150th anniversary.

This “golden mile of tailoring” has produced suits for Prince Charles, Winston Churchill, Muhammad Ali, Duke Ellington, Lord Nelson and Napoleon III.

“We are the only firm in Savile Row now doing bespoke shirt making. And I don’t think there are any left on Jermyn Street,” Whittaker mourns.

Like much of Britain’s once vibrant tailoring and textiles industries, most of these traditional skills have been lost as factories in China, Turkeyand other cheap labour markets grabbed the work.

“It’s a bit of a dying art. But there’s no reason why it shouldn’t be kept going,” says Whittaker, who is passing on his knowledge and experience to apprentice Tom Bradbury, 20.

William Skinner is the third successive generation of his family to become managing director of the tailoring house and is committed to safeguarding the Savile Row traditions and keeping the business in the family.

It has three royal warrants – from the Queen, the sultan of Oman, and the king of Bahrain. About 25% of its business comes from military tailoring and it makes all the uniforms for princes William and Harry.

A browse through a rail of half made suits dotted with tailor’s chalk marks reveals a long grey coat with a poppy still in the button hole. A brown tag hangs from the lapel with the name Prince William scrawled on it. “Oh yes, that was the coat he wore on Sunday [for the remembrance service],” says Skinner casually.

He says the everyday customer is the core of the business, but these royal appointments are important “cream”.

Michael Skinner, William’s father and the company chairman, was at the Queen’s coronation in 1953 when he, his father and John Dege dressed the peers of the realm for the occasion.

There is concern that the overseas buyout of Savile Row firms, neighbours of Dege & Skinner, may have an impact on quality. Photograph: Graham Turner/the Guardian

But much has changed since. In the last 10 years several venerable Savile Row brands have fallen on hard times and been hoovered up by overseas investors.

Hong Kong’s Fung family, headed by billionaire patriarch William Fung, now owns four of the street’s best known names: Gieves & Hawkes; Hardy Amies, formerly the Queen’s official dressmaker; Kent & Curwen; and Kilgour.

Skinner is concerned that buyouts like these may affect quality. He is also worried about the use of the Savile Row brand for the sale of clothing that is not true bespoke.

“The fact that some firms up and down Savile Row are being bought is good to preserve the name,” he says. “But when that happens, sometimes the traditional values of tailoring can be diminished.”

Are some of these firms now making clothing in China? “I don’t know but I would guess that they are. Hardy Amies doesn’t do tailoring now and has no ladieswear [which is what it was famous for].”

Hardy Amies, which designed the dress for the Queen’s silver jubilee portrait, is now just a brand name to sell clothing to places like China, where the public have an insatiable appetite for British heritage products.

“Savile Row is world renowned for making clothes,” Skinner says. “So if someone can attach the Savile Row brand to a suit and knock it out around the world – it’s prestige, it adds a cachet.”

The Savile Row Bespoke Association was set up in 2004 to protect and promote the practices and traditions of the street. It has trademarked the name Savile Row Bespoke and takes legal action against those that infringe the brand.

“We could outsource tailoring to China, but then we wouldn’t be a Savile Row tailor,” Skinner says. “I believe in doing what we say we do.”

The Dege & Skinner boss is also concerned that the Fung takeover may encourage landlords to raise rents on the Mayfair street. “A bigger conglomerate, with deeper pockets, can afford to pay higher rents – so any rent rise would hurt them less than it hurts us,” he says.

The firm signed a 15-year lease on its base at 10 Savile Row in 2011 and has a rent review in June 2016. There is always a battle between tenants, the council and landlords about how to categorise Savile Row – is it a retail street, or not?

Skinner has no doubts: “Savile Row is not an A1 retail street (which command higher rents), like Bond Street or Regent Street. It’s a destination street. We are maintaining the rich culture and tapestry of this city.

“It could be quite easy for me to say ‘I’m fed up of paying rent here’ and move a mile away or wherever, but it wouldn’t be the same.”

Dege & Skinner is certainly preparing for the future. A tour behind the scenes at 10 Savile Row reveals a warren of rooms, stairs and corridors

Skinner proudly points out the young people – the next generation of Savile Row tailors – who are busily measuring, stitching and cutting. Some are already fully qualified tailors and cutters; others are apprentices who are learning their craft under the tutelage of more experienced practitioners.

“That highlights our belief in the future of the bespoke tailoring business. We have invested in the future of the trade, because we are confident about the future of the trade. We have a good business model; we make money and we reinvest it in the company. We are not a museum piece by any means.”

Preserving traditional skills is one thing. The bigger problem for the artisans of Savile Row is its brash, young neighbours on Bond Street, home to London’s designer brand elite.

A suit from Dege & Skinner starts at £3,800 and could take 10 weeks to make; a buyer could be in and out of Prada or Armani within 10 minutes with a suit that cost half that.

“Some people feel very at home with that and Bond Streethas been very successful,” Skinner admits. “But if you have something made for you – that’s the ultimate luxury.

“A lot of people don’t want to go into a high street shop, they want the relationship and the service that we give. As long as we can maintain that, there’s every chance of surviving.”

The sharp-suited tailor recalls learning about well-known places in Londonwhen he was at school. The teacher asked the class which trade or profession was linked with areas such as Harley Street, Fleet Street, HattonGarden.


“When the teacher said Savile Row, my hand shot up,” he smiles. “I felt immensely proud of that and I want to maintain that. We’ll do our damnedest to keep it going


Established in 1865, Dege & Skinner is one of only two family-run bespoke tailoring houses to remain in Savile Row and the only one to cut bespoke shirts on the premises.

In 2015, we celebrate our 150th anniversary as a bespoke tailor so would like to invite customers to contact us with any stories, recollections or anecdotes about the company. If there is something you would like to share, please contact Cass Stainton on +44 (0)207 287 2941 or c.staintonpr@gmail.com

A new chapter of our company’s history started in 2012, as we moved our workshops into the basement underneath the shop at Number 10 and extended our Lease by 15 years.

Renowned experts in military uniforms, civilian and sports clothing, all ‘Made in England‘, the Skinner family has been dressing royalty, businessmen, professionals, the military and discerning individuals for almost a century and a half.

Current Chairman Michael Skinner was at The Queen’s Coronation at Westminster Abbey in 1953, when he, his father and John Dege dressed the Peers of the Realm for the Royal occasion.

"Robert Whittaker traces his razor sharp knife around a paper template to cut a perfect shoulder panel for a cotton shirt."



the Return of The Collar Pin.

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A collar pin (closely related to the collar bar and collar clip) is a piece of men's jewelry, which holds the two ends of a dress shirt collar together and passes underneath the knot of a necktie. Functioning in a similar way as a tabbed collar, it keeps the collar in place and lifts the knot to provide a more aesthetically pleasing arc to the necktie.

 A collar pin is between three and five centimeters in length and is one of three kinds:


 a collar bar or barbell whose ends screw off and is designed to pass through specially made eyelets in each side of the collar


a pin, similar to a safety pin, that pierces each side of the collar (or passes through the existing eyelet)


a bar with clips on both ends that grasp each side of the collar





INTERMEZZO ... Remains of the Day.


Rise Of The Lumbersexual | Wranglerstar

Just Fashion, NOT Style. Is lumbersexual a real thing? Or is it a joke?

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Lumbersexual is your Tinder date, sipping craft beer at an underground bar with his sad eyes and permanently unrealised dream of living in an isolated woodland shack.’ Photograph: Stockrocket/Getty Images

Out of the woods, here he comes: the lumbersexual
Though big of beard and clad in plaid, the latest male fashion hero has probably never been near a sawmill. But that doesn’t make him a fake
Holly Baxter

Just when we all thought we’d reached peak beard, a surprising development has happened in the fascinating world of male grooming. Yes, you guessed it (you probably didn’t guess it) – the lumbersexual is here, with his beard, plaid shirt, backpack and artfully scruffy hair barely contained by his sensible woollen hat.

He’s your Tinder date, sipping craft beer at an underground bar with his sad eyes and permanently unrealised dream of living in an isolated woodland shack. He’s your new boyfriend, who used to share a four-cheese pizza with you in bed after a long day, and who now looks like an extra who wandered out of the forest in Game of Thrones. Hell, he could even be the groom on your hipster wedding day.

We may have only just been given a great new portmanteau term for the type, but the lumbersexual has been here for a while. I know more than one urban-dwelling man who has suddenly acquired some sort of rurally themed weaponry in the last six months (axes, bows and arrows, tiny knives that they use to open beer cans at parties). And I’ve noticed that if you walk around certain areas for long enough, the proliferation of plaid (on plaid on plaid) will eventually make you feel as though you are living your life inside an optical illusion.

But the question on everybody’s lips, as with most new trends, is: guys, is this OK? Is it fine for my friend to adorn his walls with old bear traps he bought on eBay when he had to give up carving the Christmas turkey last year because it “looked too real”? Is there a problem with wrapping yourself up in a heavy duty woodsman’s jacket for your minimally hazardous commute from Peckham to the Apple store Genius Bar?

Is there something fundamentally wrong with calling yourself rugged when you actually spent 20 minutes of your morning delicately trimming your beard in the bathroom mirror? Or should we cut these guys some slack (preferably using a vintage hatchet from Colorado?)

Although I personally have spent too many dates fearing that the froth from the latest craft beer will get stuck in my lumbersexual admirer’s facial hair and make it look like a sponge, I find myself cautiously defensive of the trend. Posers they may be, but surely lumbersexuals don’t seriously think we believe that their pulled pork sandwiches are made from wild boar they slew in the communal garden behind their high-rise apartments. Instead, this so-called reaction to the unashamedly feminine metrosexual seems to me all about playing with gender stereotypes.

I like the poseur who sits beside me at a nauseatingly hip cafe with his cold brew, Barbour jacket and anchor tattoos – I can’t deny it. He isn’t telling me he’s anything but a freelance web designer who can grow an impressively bushy moustache. He isn’t sitting at home, crying over his laptop and wondering why he can’t just get out there and be a “real man”. Instead, he’s playing with the concept of what masculinity looks like and does. He is at the same time both aggressively attached to the traditionally masculine look and completely removed from the lifestyle that it advertises.

Men are given a harder time than women when they play with gender through style, since fashion still isn’t seen as their rightful domain. The metrosexual threw caution to the wind and started carrying his moisturiser round in his manbag; the lumbersexual now serves us up a hypermasculine aesthetic with an unashamedly ironic grin.

Did the lumbersexual, as accused, steal his look from the gay world of “bears” and “cubs”? It seems likely. As Tim Teeman at the Daily Beast says, “First, straights came for the smooth, pretty gay look … and now you have come for our hairier brethren.” Those who questioned straight culture in the first place were always better at laughing at gender, after all. Now that we can all share in the joy of metros, lumbersexuals and the “metrojacks”(who fall in the middle – yes, really), I am all too happy to laugh along.


Lumbersexual adorns his wall with bear traps despite being unable to carve a turkey because it looks ‘too real’. Photograph: Sunny Miller/Corbis

"Is there a problem with wrapping yourself up in a heavy duty woodsman’s jacket for your minimally hazardous commute from Peckham to the Apple store Genius Bar?
Is lumbersexual a real thing? Or is it a joke?


John Lobb: Paula Gerbase named new creative director

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HERITAGE

John Lobb has been making the finest shoes and boots for gentlemen since 1866 inLondon and 1902 inParis. Its rich heritage is reinforced by timeless qualities of craftsmanship, service and style - attributes that are now available to a wider international John Lobb audience. The company continues to maintain its bespoke shoe-making tradition in Paris, while also retaining core bespoke principles in the manufacture of its expanding ready-to-wear collection of shoes and leather goods.

John Lobb Bootmaker has been in business for almost 150 years - and prides itself on upholding its exacting standards and unique levels of craftsmanship in the creation of hand-made shoes and boots for men.

John Lobb himself was born in 1829 in Cornwall, south-west England, but made his way to London as a young man as an apprentice bootmaker. Following a successful period in Australiamaking boots for the miners of the gold rush, he returned to London to set up his first shop on Regent Street in 1866.

John Lobb rapidly established itself as the premier boot and shoemaker of the day, providing a bespoke service to the aristocracy, as well as the political and business elite. In 1902 the company opened its first store in Paris, which echoed its Londonsuccess and attracted a broad array of international clients. The company thrived in the post-war era with the launch of a number of classic models such as the William 'monk' shoe and the Lopez loafer.

In 1976, John Lobb was acquired by the Hermès Group. However, the Londonbespoke workshop, John Lobb Ltd, remained in the hands of the family, and continues to operate independently from its premises at 9 St James's Street. The Paris bespoke atelier, the By Request service and ready-to-wear collection, as well as all the other John Lobb boutiques, are all part of the Hermès-owned company.

Shortly after acquiring the company, Hermès recognised the demand for a John Lobb ready-to-wear collection of men's shoes, as Lobbs were only available to bespoke customers, limiting access to a privileged few.In 1982 the debut ready-to-wear collection was launched, with the first store showcasing the RTW line opening in Paris in 1990.

In 1994, John Lobb opened its Northampton workshop, where today, the ready-to-wear line is designed and made by hand, a Londonboutique followed on Jermyn Street. Over the last decade, the company has expanded its retail presence across the globe with stores in major cities in the US, Europe, the Middle East and Asia.

The ultimate John Lobb bespoke service is still available from the Parisatelier, now based on 32 rue de Mogador. Meanwhile the ready-to-wear collection retains the core bespoke qualities of John Lobb in its 190-step manufacturing process for each pair of shoes. The collection includes all the iconic classics, as well as fresh seasonal additions and new models, such as the Driver by John Lobb, which reflect contemporary lifestyles and international audiences.

All its shoes retain the timeless traditions of John Lobb: exceptional quality, fine craftsmanship, comfort, durability and elegance.
Gerbase studied womenswear at Central Saint Martins and trained in the womenswear atelier of Hardy Amies, followed by 5 years as Head Designer for Savile Row tailor, Kilgour.
Paula Gerbase, a 32-year-old fashion designer, was appointed in June as Lobb's artistic director. Credit Tom Jamieson for The New York Times

John Lobb Spruces Up Its Classic Footwear

At John Lobb, the 148-year-old British company known for the $1,700 oxfords that have trod boardrooms from New York to Hong Kong, change has arrived in the form of Paula Gerbase, a London fashion designer known for her slightly esoteric tailored clothing line, 1205.

She has never before designed shoes.

So established an institution is Lobb that when Ms. Gerbase, 32, was named in June as the company’s first artistic director, it was the talk not only of the shoe world, but also of the broader luxury fashion industry.

As the market for men’s wear has exploded — with growth, by some estimates, now outpacing women’s wear — companies have sought to attract new customers and galvanize existing ones, often by refurbishing once-staid images.

To its admirers around the world, the Lobb name denotes tradition and heritage in men’s formal and custom-made footwear. (Its bespoke studio in Parisalso has a small clientele of women.) The company, its collections, its factory in Northampton, England, and its Paris studio have been owned since 1976 by Hermès, but the original Londonbespoke workshop operates independently and is family owned.

For well-paid executives who appreciate footwear priced in four figures, John Lobb is a benchmark, which is why Ms. Gerbase’s appointment has drawn attention.

“I’m not surprised you are surprised,” Renaud Paul-Dauphin, the chief executive of John Lobb, said the other day. The point of hiring Ms. Gerbase, he said, was “to bring modernity and, really, a creative vision to John Lobb, which is not traditional for a classic British brand.”
The business shoe as embodied by Lobb has been about craftsmanship and luxury. Its leather is cut in large pieces; the less expensive method is to stitch together small ones. And Lobb’s blocked heel is also a seamless design.

While such details scarcely register with the untrained eye, to connoisseurs, they justify the Lobb price tag, which can run into five figures for shoes made with exotic skins. The company says that 190 manufacturing steps are required for each pair of shoes.

With her label, 1205, Ms. Gerbase made her name as the designer of a highly regarded niche collection of men’s and women’s wear.

She creates beautifully cut jackets and trousers in unusual fabrics that she personally develops with the textile mills that are her suppliers. Wearing a workman’s jumpsuit of her own design, Ms. Gerbase received a reporter this fall at the tucked-away gallery space in Paris that she reserves each fashion week to show her clothing to buyers.

Ms. Gerbase cited quality and understatement as “the things that attract me to John Lobb,” adding that “elegance can be translated in lots of different ways that aren’t necessarily a business shoe.”

As businesspeople are changing, so are their fashion preferences, shoes included. As with other parts of the wardrobe, the boundary between formal footwear and more casual styles is more porous than it once was.

“It’s definitely blurred,” said LukeMountain, the buying manager for men’s formal wear, casual, denim and footwear at Selfridges department stores in the United Kingdom, which carry John Lobb. “There’s no more that ‘work shoe’ and ‘going out’ shoe.”

The most pronounced swing of the pendulum took place at Berluti, the former boutique shoemaker now owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. In 2011, the company appointed an artistic director, Alessandro Sartori, who rolled out a fashion collection, opened stores worldwide and began to show his designs on the runway at Paris Fashion Week. There, every look was accessorized with a $1,580 sneaker called, significantly enough, Playtime.

Ms. Gerbase, who will continue to design the 1205 label, said she had no interest in creating a clothing collection for John Lobb — or in feeding the growing market for luxury sneakers.

But she has been given the task of modernizing Lobb, implicitly to compete for the same customers who flock to Berluti. The two companies have stores some five blocks away from each other on Madison Avenue in New York.

Steven Taffel, an owner of Leffot, a shoe store in New Yorkthat specializes in established labels including John Lobb, has also noticed that rules for business footwear are not as rigid as before.

“It’s definitely loosened up,” he said. “Even companies that are old, like Edward Green, they’re coming out with new colors of leathers, new designs, new shapes, new lasts that are contemporary. The guys are responding to it.”

Ms. Gerbase is well suited to straddle the divide between fashion and traditional craftsmanship. She studied women’s wear at Central Saint Martins in London, known for minting many of fashion’s pathbreaking talents, including Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Stella McCartney and Christopher Kane.

But, hungry for a more traditional grounding than Saint Martins provided, she found her way in 2005 to an apprenticeship at Hardy Amies, a tailor on Savile Row, London’s street of the bespoke, before going on to Kilgour, another Savile Row house. She left in 2010 to start her own collection.

Ms. Gerbase now shows her 1205 collections each February and September during London Fashion Week. Last month, she was nominated for a British Fashion Award for emerging women’s wear designer.

For John Lobb, she has chosen to look forward by looking back.

John Lobb, born in 1829, was a farmer’s son. He left his native Cornwall— on foot — for London, and eventually Australia, before wending his way back to Europe.

Mr. Lobb’s peripatetic career resonated with Ms. Gerbase, who was born in Braziland lived in the United Statesand Switzerland before settling in London. She visited Cornwall and made part of Mr. Lobb’s walk to London, more than 200 milesnortheast, to put herself, literally, in his shoes.

Her first Lobb collection, to be shown in January in Londonduring men’s fashion week, was inspired by the sights and colors she saw along the way.

Details of the new collection are still closely guarded. But Ms. Gerbase said a number of casual shoes in the Lobb archive — a tennis shoe from the 1920s, a walking boot from the 1940s — informed her direction. She said the company had given her “complete freedom, which is pretty much unheard-of.”

Merchants predict that Ms. Gerbase’s changes will be more evolutionary than revolutionary.

“I don’t think they’re going to do anything to upset the apple cart,” said Mr. Taffel of Leffot in New York.

Ms. Gerbase, for her part, sees it all as part of the evolving 21st-century economy.


“Jobs are changing, the uniforms are changing as well,” she said. “Having modernity in a more formal shoe — I think that’s quite exciting.”

Renaud Paul-Dauphin, the chief executive of John Lobb






Hackett London Men's Fall/Winter 2014 2015 Full Fashion Show.

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Hackett was founded in 1979 by Jeremy Hackett and Ashley Lloyd-Jennings from a stall on London's Portobello Road. The first shop, on the "wrong end" of King's Road, in London Chelsea district, was selling only used clothes.

The company gradually expanded over several years, increasing the number of branches and moving from acquiring and selling second-hand clothing to designing and selling its own items. International expansion began with the 1989 opening of a Spanish branch in Madrid.

Alfred Dunhill bought a majority stake in the company in 1992. This cash injection facilitated the opening of the flagship store in Sloane Street the same year. This branch remains the largest and most comprehensive of the UKshops.

In June 2005, Richemont sold Hackett Limited to the Spanish investment company Torreal S.C.R., S.A..Since then, Hackett has continued to expand internationally and now operates from 77 stores in sixteen countries across the globe.

As well as expanding geographically, the company has increased its range of services. As well as manufacturing and selling clothing items, Hackett offers personal and bespoke tailoring, a range of spectacles, grooming products, and a barbers in their flagship store in Sloane Street, London.

Hackett appointed American creative director Michael Sondag, who joined Hackett from Tommy Hilfiger in 2005.

BEATON AT BROOK STREET.

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BEATON AT BROOK STREET

Celebrated photographer, award-winning theatre and costume designer, illustrator, diarist, dandy and intimate of royalty – interest in Cecil Beaton and his world is greater than ever. Andrew Ginger, who with his company Beaudesert, curated the highly acclaimed Cecil Beaton exhibition at SalisburyMuseum this summer, has collaborated with Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler to create ‘BEATON at BROOK STREET’ at their historic Mayfair premises.

CECIL BEATON AT HOME – TOWN & COUNTRY will be presented in The Yellow Room, contrasting Beaton’s London home, Pelham Place, with Ashcombe and Reddish, his Wiltshire country houses, through vivid room set recreations which reunite many of Beaton’s previously unseen photographs, artworks and possessions.

The exhibition also marks the launch of a new book, CECIL BEATON: PORTRAITS AND PROFILES, by Hugo Vickers, Beaton’s official biographer and literary executor. There will be a themed display throughout the Brook Streetshowrooms of photographs from the book, together with other portraits and artworks from private lenders, which have never been exhibited before.

Many rare and unique photographs are included from The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s, who have generously supported this exhibition.

18 November to 5 December 2014, Monday to Friday, 9.30am – 5.30pm

Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler Ltd, 39 Brook Street, Mayfair, London, W1K 4JE

ADMISSION FREE

Cecil Beaton Self Portrait 1938

© The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive, Sotheby’s


This beautiful collection of fabulous photographs and incisive pen portraits captures the world of Cecil Beaton, one of the most celebrated portrait photographers of the twentieth century.

Cecil Beaton: Portraits and Profiles combines Beaton’s photographic and pen portraits. Beaton’s portraits offer insight, beauty, witty observations and a fascinating glimpse into his world. His images often flattered but his diaries and journals didn’t necessarily follow suit and he was described by Jean Cocteau as ‘Malice in Wonderland’. 

Included are stars of music, fashion, society, stage and screen. From Mick Jagger and Andy Warhol, Coco Chanel and Princess Grace through to Greta Garbo, Elizabeth Taylor and Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali.

Of Audrey Hepburn, Beaton said ‘she is like a portrait by Modigliani where the various distortions are not only interesting in themselves but make a completely satisfying composite’.

Marilyn Monroe ‘romps, she squeals with delight, she leaps on the sofa. It is an artless, impromptu, high-spirited, infectiously gay performance. It will probably end in tears’.

Marlon Brando was ‘pallid as a mushroom, smooth-skinned and scarred, with curved feminine lips and silky hair, he seems as unhealthy as a lame duck. Yet his ram-like profile has the harsh strength of the gutter’

Cecil Beaton’s life spanned many worlds and these are captured here through his fabulous photographs and incisive observations.

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