Quantcast
Channel: "Tweedland" The Gentlemen's club
Viewing all 3471 articles
Browse latest View live

Clandeboye Revisited ... Back to this Great House with Dan Cruickshank and his exciting new series at BBC 2

$
0
0

There are few other houses in Britain like Clandeboye - a monument to a man whose life was like a Victorian fairy tale of adventure, and a monument to the golden age of the largest and most far flung empire the world has ever seen.
Clandeboye House and estate was, like the empire itself, an epic creation - but unlike the empire, it still endures, a vignette of a now almost forgotten age and surprisingly little altered since Lord Dufferin died in 1902.
The house is overflowing with relics from the empire and Dufferin's aristocratic adventures - stuffed baby bears, Egyptian monuments, tiger skins and weaponry from India, Canada and Burma to mention just a few, with extraordinary photographic albums that document the collecting of these unique 'souvenirs'. Clandeboye is a genuine treasure trove.


The Country House Revealed is a six part BBC series first aired on BBC Two in May 2011 in which British architectural historian Dan Cruickshank visits six houses never before open to public view, and examines the lives of the families who lived there.
Episodes
Episode 1 tells the story behind South Wraxall Manor, hidden in the depths of the Wiltshire countryside. Built by a family with a dramatic and chequered history - the Longs - who rose in prominence through the Tudor period to become knights of the realm, friends of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I, and one of the most powerful dynasties in England.
Episode 2 tells the story of architect Sir William Bruce and Kinross House.
Episode 3 examines the architecture of Easton Neston in Northamptonshire and discusses whether it was the work of Nicholas Hawksmoor or Sir Christopher Wren.
Episode 4 shows Wentworth Woodhouse near Rotherham, one of the largest country houses in Europe. The building exemplifies the workings of British Parliamentary democracy before the Reform Act of 1832, and is important in the history of Whig politics, its owners having included influential Prime Minister Charles Watson-Wentworth, 2nd Marquess of Rockingham. The episode also relates the near-destruction of the estate by controversial open-cast coal mining in the 1940s and 1950s, and speculates on how such a huge country house needing extensive renovation might find a use in the 21st century.
Episode 5 looks at the Clandeboye Estate in Northern Ireland.
Episode 6 views Marshcourt in Stockbridge, Hampshire, designed by Edwin Lutyens.









































Clandeboye House / VIDEO: 1/4 Clandeboye (Ep5) - The Country House Revealed

$
0
0










The Clandeboye Estate is a country estate located in Bangor, County Down, Northern Ireland, 12 miles (19 km) outside Belfast. Covering 2,000 acres (8.1 km2), it contains woodlands, formal and walled gardens, lawns, a lake, and 250 hectares (620 acres) of farmland. The estate is currently home to Lindy, Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava, widow of the last Marquess (the title being extinct).
Clandeboye was first settled in 1674, but the Clandeboye House of today dates from 1801, utilising a design by Robert Woodgate that incorporated elements of the previous building and was built for the politician Sir James Blackwood, 2nd Baron Dufferin and Clandeboye.
In memory of his mother, Helen, Lady Dufferin (granddaughter of the playwright Richard Brinsley Sheridan), Lord Dufferin and Ava built the stone edifice Helen's Tower on the estate, which has since been immortalised by Tennyson in the poem of the same name. The tower has taken on an unforeseen poignancy, as an almost exact replica of it, the Ulster Tower, was built at Thiepval to honour the men of the 36th (Ulster) Division who fell at the Battle of the Somme. The estate was used for army training during the First World War, and the 36th (Ulster) Division trained beside Helen's Tower before leaving for France. The tower can be reached via the Ulster Way, a five-mile (8 km) section of which traverses the estate.
The parklands familiar to visitors today were originally laid out by the 1st Marquess, who was also responsible for the addition of the banqueting hall to the house in 1898.
As a result of the work of the 1st Marquess, Clandeboye is home to the largest area of broad-leaved woodland in Northern Ireland, consisting mostly of oak, birch, and beech. The estate is also home to a large variety of animal species; those recorded as present on the estate include the osprey, red kite, tree sparrow, barn owl, yellowhammer, song thrush, pipistrelle bat, red squirrel, fallow deer, common newt, marsh fritillary, and the wall brown butterfly. The estate is home to the Conservation Volunteers Northern Ireland. The grounds are tended by head gardener Fergus Thompson.

The series from BBC titled The Country House Revealed was accompanied by a full length illustrated companion book published by the BBC which featured Cladeboye Estate as a dedicated chapter appearing as Chapter Five of the book edition. The six chapters of the book correspond to the six episodes of the BBC series.

King Charles III / Based on Mike Bartlett’s award-winning play. Wednesday 10 May at 9pm to BBC Two. / VIDEOKing Charles III: Trailer

$
0
0



Cast revealed for Mike Bartlett’s King Charles III for BBC Two
We have an exceptional team, both in front of and behind the camera, and I'm looking forward to bringing this contemporary royal tragedy to a national television audience.
Mike Bartlett
Date: 10.11.2016     Last updated: 09.11.2016 at 17.08
Category: BBC Two; Drama; Casting; Commissioning

Charlotte Riley (Close To The Enemy, Peaky Blinders) has been cast in the role of Kate Middleton in BBC Two’s ground-breaking one-off drama, King Charles III, adapted by award-winning playwright and television screenwriter Mike Bartlett (Doctor Foster, Press) from his Olivier Award-winning play.
The inventive future history drama, produced by Drama Republic, reunites many of the creative team behind the original Almeida Theatre play, including director and fellow Olivier Award-winner and Tony Award nominee, Rupert Goold. Tim Pigott-Smith returns to the title role of Charles, with Oliver Chris as William, Richard Goulding as Harry and Margot Leicester as Camilla. Adam James will also reprise his role as Prime Minister Tristram Evans.

Joining the cast alongside Charlotte are Priyanga Burford and Tamara Lawrance.

Mike Bartlett says: "I couldn’t be more excited that King Charles III is now fully, brilliantly cast and about to begin shooting. We have an exceptional team, both in front of and behind the camera, and I'm looking forward to bringing this very contemporary royal tragedy to a national television audience."

Charlotte Riley says: “I’m really excited to come on board King Charles III - Mike Bartlett and Rupert Goold are two brilliant creatives. It’s such a unique project, to be both modern and rich in verse and to play someone who is real but yet totally re-imagined for this story, is an exciting prospect for an actor. Kate Middleton is a really interesting woman, particularly within the context of this play, and it is a challenge I am really looking forward to.”

Tim Pigott-Smith adds: “Performing King Charles in Mike Bartlett’s astonishing play in London and New York has been one of the high points of my career. I am thrilled that we are to film it - it is a drama about us, now, who we are, and the relevance of our monarchy. Television gives it an important democratic voice.”

Daringly written in blank verse, King Charles III is an imagining of Prince Charles’ accession to the throne following the Queen’s death. When he refuses to sign a controversial bill into law, political chaos ensues: a constitutional crisis, rioting on the streets and a tank in front of Buckingham Palace. As Charles wrestles with his own identity, the playful and poignant drama explores the implications for him, his family, and his subjects.

Executive Producers Greg Brenman and Roanna Benn add: “We are delighted and excited in equal measure that Mike Bartlett, one of Britain's most gifted writers, and the visionary Rupert Goold will re-unite to bring their extraordinary theatre production to television. Alongside Masterpiece and the BBC we are as proud as anything to be the producers of this standout event.”

King Charles III is a co-production of the BBC and Masterpiece, in association with Drama Republic. The Executive Producers for Drama Republic are Greg Brenman and Roanna Benn, alongside Mike Bartlett and Rupert Goold. Matthew Read is the Executive Producer for the BBC and Rebecca Eaton for Masterpiece.

Filming of the 1x90 minute drama will take place in and around Leeds from November.

Pictured: Tim Pigott Smith, pictured in the Almeida Production (Image Credit: Johan Persson)


CK


 Masterpiece to Air Film of Tony® Award-Nominated Play King Charles III
Posted by Cassie Gage on Jul 31, 2016 at 2:00 am

MASTERPIECE on PBS and the BBC announced that the hit Broadway show King Charles III will be adapted for television. A 2016 Tony® nominee for Best Play, King Charles III imagines Prince Charles’ ascension to the throne following Queen Elizabeth’s death. It will air on MASTERPIECE on PBS in 2017.

Lauded by the New York Times as a “flat-out brilliant portrait of a monarch in crisis,” the play, originally produced by the Almeida Theatre, was critically acclaimed in London and New York. The 90-minute adaptation will reunite the Tony®-nominated creative team behind the play: Writer Mike Bartlett will adapt from his own script — daringly written in blank verse—and Rupert Goold will direct.

“King Charles III is an ingenious play that promises to be as riveting on television as it was on stage,” says MASTERPIECE Executive Producer Rebecca Eaton. “It's a play set in the near future, but with Shakespeare never far away.” MASTERPIECE is presented on PBS by WGBH Boston.

“We are delighted and excited in equal measure that Mike Bartlett, one of Britain's most gifted writers, and the visionary Rupert Goold will re-unite to bring their extraordinary theatre production to television. Alongside MASTERPIECE and the BBC we are as proud as anything to be the producers of this standout event,” said Executive Producers Greg Brenman and Roanna Benn.

Screenwriter Mike Bartlett said, “I'm thrilled that on Broadway, American audiences have responded so well to the story of King Charles III. It's therefore fantastic that the film of the play has found a perfect home at MASTERPIECE. It will mean that, along with original director Rupert Goold, we can tell this story to people across the whole country."

King Charles III is a coproduction of the BBC and MASTERPIECE, in association with Drama Republic. The screenwriter is Mike Bartlett and the director is Rupert Goold. The Executive Producers for Drama Republic are Greg Brenman and Roanna Benn, alongside Mike Bartlett and Rupert Goold. The Executive Producer for MASTERPIECE is Rebecca




Eton Wall Game (1956)

Eton Wall Game (1934)

The Eton wall game / St. Andrews Day At The Eton Wall Game (1914-1918)

$
0
0






The Eton wall game is a game which bears some resemblance to rugby union that originated at and is still played at Eton College. It is played on a strip of ground 5 metres wide and 110 metres long ("The Furrow") next to a slightly curved brick wall ("The Wall") erected in 1717.

The traditional and most important match of the year is played on St Andrew's Day, as the Collegers (King's Scholars) take on the Oppidans (the rest of the school). Although College has only 70 boys to pick from, compared to the 1250 or so Oppidans, the Collegers have one distinct advantage: access to the field on which the Wall Game is played is controlled by a Colleger. Despite this, it is usual for them to allow the Oppidans to use it whenever they wish.

The wall game being played in the late 19th or early 20th century. At right is The Wall, the dark strip of ground running alongside it is The Furrow.
At the annual St Andrew's Day match, the Oppidans climb over the wall, after throwing their caps over in defiance of the Scholars, while the Collegers march down from the far end of College Field, arm-in-arm, towards the near end, where they meet the Oppidans.

The Wall Game is also played on Ascension Day, immediately after a 6 a.m. service on the roof of College Chapel. Various scratch matches are also played throughout the Michaelmas and Lent halves (terms), where boys from different year groups, as well as masters, take part.

The aim of the game is to move the ball towards the opponents' end of the playing area. In those last few yards of the field is an area called the "calx". In this area a player can earn a "shy" (worth one point) by lifting the ball against the wall with his foot. A teammate then touches the ball with his hand and shouts "Got it!" These two plays must happen within the calx. After this, if the umpire says "Given", the scoring team can attempt a goal (worth a further nine points) by throwing the ball at a designated target (a garden door at one end of the field and a tree at the other end). A player can also score a kicked goal, worth five points, if he kicks the ball out and it hits a goal during the normal course of play.


The main game consists of the two sets of players forming a rugby-style scrummage (called a "Bully") in which neither team may "furk" the ball, which is to hook it backwards (except in Calx, where a different type of Bully called a Calx Bully occurs). The Bully is formed next to the Wall and crabs slowly along the Wall until the ball emerges. Many players, particularly those whose position is actually against the Wall, lose the skin off their elbows, hips and knees. Because of this, players usually wear long sleeves. Players within the Bully shove and push each other, mostly with their bodies but also by placing their fists against the faces of the opposition and attempting to lever them backwards and away from the Wall. Actual punching is not permitted, and grabbing an opponent's shirt ("holding") is also not allowed.

When in Calx, a different type of Bully called a Calx Bully occurs. The fastest way to make ground is by kicking the ball upfield and out of play whenever it comes sideways out of the Bully – unlike most types of football, play is restarted opposite where the ball stops after it had gone out, or was touched after it had gone out.

Consequently, the most common tactic revolves around the formation of a 'phalanx'. This consists of a tunnel (coming out from the wall, diagonally forward from the position of the ball) of players from one team who are crouching on hands and feet next to each other. Once the team in possession of the ball has formed a successful phalanx, it attempts to pass the ball down the 'tunnel' using the knees of the players forming it, to a player standing at the end of the phalanx, known as Lines, whose job it is to kick the ball upfield. The team not in possession is constantly attempting to disrupt this, and win the ball back.

The game lasts up to an hour, with two halves of 30 minutes each. Many games end 0-0. Scoring goals (ten points) is very rare; they occur about once every 10 years and there have been no goals scored in the St Andrew's Day game since 1909. There was a goal scored in a recent scratch match (a less formal warm-up match for the St Andrew's Day game) in May 2016 by a College player. However, shies (worth 1 point) are scored more frequently.

In the 2015 St Andrew's Day match, the outcome was a 0-0 draw. This marked the 106th consecutive St Andrew's Day match in which no goals were scored by either team. There was, however, a near controversy in the latter stages of the match. College was in Calx and shouted "Got it" to claim that they had scored a shy. Even though even an Oppidan player told the umpire that it was a clear shy and that it could be seen from where he was, the umpire claimed he could not see the ball off the ground and did not give the shy.

In the 2016 game, the 250th St. Andrew's Day match, College triumphed 1-0 against the Oppidans. This was the 107th consecutive St Andrew's Day match in which no goals were scored by either team; however, College scored a shy.

The Wall Game is organized entirely by boys, particularly by the Keepers (captains) of College Wall, Oppidan Wall and Mixed Wall. Famous past players of the Wall game include Boris Johnson, who was Keeper of the College Wall, George Orwell and Harold Macmillan.[citation needed] The First World War flying ace Arthur Rhys Davids also played, representing College with Ralph Dominic Gamble in 1915.

Members of the College Wall also annually commemorate the great Wall Game player Logie Leggatt, making a toast at each year's Christmas Sock Supper with the words in piam memoriam L.C.L (towards the pious memory of L.C.L). Despite its renown outside the school, only a very small number of the 250 or so boys in each year group ever take part in the sport, unlike the lesser-known but much more widely played Eton Field Game.

The Eton Wall Game has been played twice by all-female teams.





'Distasteful': BBC's King Charles III sparks anger even before it is aired

$
0
0
King Charles III will air on BBC2 on 10 May at 9pm.

. Photograph: Robert Viglasky/BBC/Drama Republic


. Photograph: Robert Viglasky/BBC/Drama Republic

'Distasteful': BBC's King Charles III sparks anger even before it is aired

Drama depicting warring Windsors, a scheming Kate and Princess Diana’s ghost already has one Tory politician up in arms

Caroline Davies
Tuesday 2 May 2017 00.01 BST

Featuring the Queen’s death, the ghost of Diana, Princess of Wales, and a full-blown constitutional crisis, a new drama from the normally deferential BBC is not for the faint-hearted. Nor, it seems, for actors harbouring a quiet ambition of one day appearing on the Queen’s honours lists.

King Charles III, which portrays a future royal family descending into acrimony and bitter rivalry on Prince Charles acceding the throne, premieres on BBC2 next week, adapted from writer Mike Bartlett’s West End and Broadway hit of the same name.

Its Olivier award-winning director, Rupert Goold, concedes it has presented some challenges for the state broadcaster. “Given what things could have been like, the BBC was very good,” he tells the Radio Times.

“And you have to remember that even with the stage version, we’d been through long conversations with lawyers and certain actors refusing to be involved because of how it might affect their future relationship with the honours system.”

Those who stepped up include Tim Pigott-Smith, 70, who died last month, and who reprises the role of Charles that he played in the stage version. Richard Goulding is Harry, whom he also plays in the Channel 4 show The Windsors.

Oliver Chris, who stars as William, admits the scene featuring the ghost of Diana might be seen as “pretty shocking”. “Some people will bridle at it, but I hope it’s done with enough intelligence and sensitivity not to be gratuitous. I’m very conscious that it’s a real person and a real family,” he told the magazine.

The BBC has stressed the drama is pure fiction. It depicts Charles at loggerheads with William, while the Peaky Blinders actor Charlotte Riley is a manipulative Lady Macbeth-like Duchess of Cambridge.

One scene featuring a furious Camilla – played by Margot Leicester – slapping her stepson William has already provoked ire. The Tory MP Andrew Bridgen said it was “unfortunate the BBC would seek to promote this flight of fantasy, which many licence-fee payers will find distasteful and which I believe denigrates and undermines our royal family. I hope that the BBC will make clear that the production is pure fiction,” he told the Mail on Sunday.

The BBC said: “The public know the difference between fact and fiction and King Charles III is a one-off BBC2 drama of the award-winning fictional play.”

The play premiered at the Almeida theatre in Islington, north London, before moving to the West End. It won the Critic’s Circle and Olivier awards for best new play, was named best theatre production at the South Bank Sky awards and nominated for a Tony for its Broadway production.

Pigott-Smith was nominated for an Olivier and a Tony for best leading actor for his performance. Bartlett said the cast and crew were still in shock over his death.

The play opens as the family gather after the funeral of the Queen, and as Charles holds his first weekly audience with the prime minister. His refusal to sign a statutory bill to restrict freedom of the press puts him at odds with the government and sees him increasing the armed guard outside Buckingham Palace as protests sweep the country.

King Charles III receives his crown from the archbishop. The monarch is played by Tim Pigott-Smith, who died last month. Photograph: Robert Viglasky/BBC/Drama Republic
Meanwhile, Harry is wooing a republican and wants to become a commoner, while Kate pushes William to take on Charles.

The TV adaptation is made by the BBC and is also part of the US broadcaster PBS’s Masterpiece anthology series, with Bartlett and Goold as executive producers.

Rebecca Eaton, an executive producer of Masterpiece, described King Charles III as “an ingenious play that promises to be as riveting on television as it was on stage. It’s a play set in the near future, but with Shakespeare never far away.”


King Charles III will air on BBC2 on 10 May at 9pm.

London Sartorial: Men's Style From Street to Bespoke

$
0
0



London Sartorial: Men's Style from Street to Bespoke

Image of London Sartorial: Men's Style From Street to Bespoke
Dylan Jones
Release Date:
March 13, 2017

 Reviewed by:
Jeffrey Felner
Many a book on the subject of London and its contribution to men’s fashion has been written and expounded upon, but few have found a truly unique way to tackle the topic and stay the course. Dylan Jones attacks the topic from a decidedly original point of view, so if you are looking for a history of Savile Row or of the Carnaby Street from the peacock era ... well, then you are out of luck. This is an educational, entertaining, and astute examination of British menswear.

Jones has chosen to examine this mecca of men’s sartorial habits and quirks via the ever expanding retail topography of menswear purveyors. While doing so he proffers how the merchandise and buying habits, at both the retail and wholesale levels, have evolved since that peacock revolution of the sixties. He explores the rising interest in streetwear as well as the mindset of men whose interests lean toward the of the moment trend-worthy in addition to those who lean toward the more the au courant  of classic styles.

The first half of the book includes a wonderful photographic essay that concerns itself with all the various styles and influences that London offers. The second half includes interviews and a photo essay of sorts that concerns itself primarily with specific designers of London while further focusing on those who show during London Fashion Week Mens. It is here that it should be noted that Jones is the chairman of that event and has been awarded an OBE for services to publishing and the fashion industry.

London Sartorial: Men's Style from Street to Bespoke is a book that speaks to those who have a genuine and profound interest in men’s fashion and especially to those who revel in all things sartorial, especially of the British variety.

Jeffrey Felner is a dedicated participant and nimble historian in the businesses of fashion and style. Decades of experience allow him to pursue almost any topic relating to fashion and style with unique insight and unrivaled acumen.


London Sartorial: Men's Style From Street to Bespoke
Written by Dylan Jones

Pub Date: April 4, 2017

Format: Hardcover
Category: Design - Fashion & Accessories
Publisher: Rizzoli
Trim Size: 8 x 10
US Price: $45.00
CAN Price: $60.00
ISBN: 978-0-8478-5866-8

The new looks, updated traditions, and influential designers defining men’s fashion today, from the world’s capital of gentlemen’s style.

Combining the unique heritage of gentlemen’s tailoring with a progressive approach to street style, London is fast becoming the world’s capital of men’s fashion. For this book, Dylan Jones presents a discerning sartorialist’s guide to the capital, from London’s coolest neighborhoods to the studios of its most influential designers and beyond.

Beginning with an exploration of London’s chicest urban villages, the book reflects the extraordinary eclecticism of the city’s street style—from envelope-pushing streetwear in Shoreditch to classic tailoring in Mayfair. Forays into the coolest and hardest-to-find menswear shops in the city at once reveal the sources of the fashions on display and capture the atmosphere of the capital. At the heart of the book are profiles of London’s top designers—from world renowned brands to up-and-coming names, these are the designers whose work is shaping the future of menswear.

Legends such as Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood, whose flair for subversion colors their refinement, sit alongside younger designers such as Christopher Shannon and Agi & Sam, pioneers of bringing graphics and pattern to luxury streetwear. Icons of classic elegance such as Tom Ford and Burberry contrast with a new generation of designers, from Nigel Cabourn to Mr. Hare, whose redefined silhouettes and innovative materials take the traditions of Savile Row into the new millennium.

About the Author


Dylan Jones is a British journalist and author and former editor of i-D and Arena magazines, and has been the editor of GQ magazine (UK) since 1999. He is chair of the British Fashion Council’s Menswear Committee and a founding chairman of London Collections: Men.


'A Very English Education' Docu

Tom Brown's School Days / VIDEO: TOM BROWNS SCHOOL DAYS EXCERPT

$
0
0



Tom Brown's School Days (sometimes written Tom Brown's Schooldays, also published under the titles Tom Brown at Rugby, School Days at Rugby, and Tom Brown's School Days at Rugby) is an 1857 novel by Thomas Hughes. The story is set in the 1830s at Rugby School, a public school for boys. Hughes attended Rugby School from 1834 to 1842.

The novel was originally published as being "by an Old Boy of Rugby", and much of it is based on the author's experiences. Tom Brown is largely based on the author's brother George Hughes. George Arthur, another of the book's main characters, is generally believed to be based on Arthur Penrhyn Stanley. The fictional Tom's life also resembles the author's, in that the culminating event of his school career was a cricket match. The novel also features Dr Thomas Arnold (1795–1842), who was the actual headmaster of Rugby School from 1828 to 1841.

Tom Brown's School Days has been the source for several film and television adaptations. It also influenced the genre of British school novels, which began in the nineteenth century, and led to fictional depictions of schools such as Billy Bunter's Greyfriars School, Mr Chips' Brookfield, St. Trinian's, and Harry Potter's Hogwarts. A sequel, Tom Brown at Oxford, was published in 1861.

Tom Brown is energetic, stubborn, kind-hearted and athletic, rather than intellectual. He follows his feelings and the unwritten rules of the boys.

The early chapters of the novel deal with his childhood at his home in the Vale of White Horse. Much of the scene setting in the first chapter is deeply revealing of Victorian England's attitudes towards society and class, and contains a comparison of so-called Saxon and Norman influences on England. This part of the book, when young Tom wanders the valleys freely on his pony, serves as a contrast with the hellish experiences in his first years at school.

His first school year is at a local school. His second year starts at a private school, but due to an epidemic of fever in the area, all the school's boys are sent home, and Tom is transferred mid-term to Rugby School.

On his arrival, the eleven-year-old Tom Brown is looked after by a more experienced classmate, Harry "Scud" East. Tom's nemesis at Rugby is the bully Flashman. The intensity of the bullying increases, and, after refusing to hand over a sweepstake ticket for the favourite in a horse race, Tom is deliberately burned in front of a fire. Tom and East defeat Flashman with the help of Diggs, a kind, comical, older boy. In their triumph they become unruly.

In the second half of the book, Dr Thomas Arnold (1795–1842), the historical headmaster of the school at the time, gives Tom the care of George Arthur, a frail, pious, academically brilliant, gauche, and sensitive new boy. A fight that Tom gets into to protect Arthur, and Arthur's nearly dying of fever, are described in loving detail. Tom and Arthur help each other and their friends develop into young gentlemen who say their nightly prayers, do not cheat on homework, and play in a cricket match. An epilogue shows Tom's return to Rugby and its chapel when he hears of Arnold's death.

Although there were as many as 90 stories set in British boarding schools published between Sarah Fielding's The Governess, or The Little Female Academy in 1749 and 1857, Tom Brown's School Days was responsible for bringing the school story genre to much wider attention. Tom Brown's School Days' influence on the genre of British school novels includes the fictional schools of Billy Bunter's Greyfriars School, Mr Chips' Brookfield, and St. Trinian's. It also directly inspired J. K. Rowling's Harry Potter series, set at the fictional boarding school Hogwarts. The series' first novel Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone has many direct parallels in structure and theme to Tom Brown's School Days.

The book contains an account of a game of rugby football, the variant of football played at Rugby School (with many differences from the modern forms). The book's popularity helped to spread the popularity of this sport beyond the school.

In Japan, Tom Brown's School Days was probably the most popular textbook of English origin for high-school students during the Meiji period (1868–1912). In 1899, an abridged version of the book (omitting chapter 9 of part 1, and chapters 5 and 7 of part 2) was published in Japanese translation. A subsequent, two-part, Japanese translation by Tsurumatsu Okamoto and Tomomasa Murayama appeared in 1903 and 1904, which, in addition to the previous omissions, also omitted the scene at the cricket match, due to the translators' stated ignorance of the game of cricket. In the preface to this version, the translators praised the English education system, citing the example of the friendship between Tom and Dr Arnold as an example of how to raise a great nation. Another partial translation, consisting only of part 1 of the book, was released in 1912 by schoolteacher Nagao Tachibana. A fourth translation, also abridged, by Sada Tokinoya arrived in 1925. Finally, a complete translation was released in 1947 that eventually ran to ten separate editions.







Tom Brown's Schooldays is a 2005 television film adaptation of the Thomas Hughes novel of the same name. It was released on 1 January 2005 and released on DVD 9 days later.

Tom Brown (Alex Pettyfer) is energetic, stubborn, kind-hearted, and athletic more than intellectual. He acts according to his feelings and the unwritten rules of the boys around him more than adults' rules.
The film deals with his years at the elite public school for boys Rugby School. His year starts when he goes to Rugby School, where he becomes acquainted with the adults and boys who live at the school and in its environs.
On his arrival, the 13-year-old Tom Brown is looked after by a more experienced classmate, Harry "Scud" East (Harry Michell). Soon after, Tom and East become the targets of a bully named Flashman (Joseph Beattie). The intensity of the bullying increases, and, after refusing to hand over a sweepstake ticket for the favorite in a horse race, Tom is deliberately burned in front of a fire. Tom and Scud stop Flashman's bullying when Flashman is expelled after a fight with Tom in which he used brass knuckles.

For scenes shot on location, all pupil roles that were not leads were played by real Rugby School students. The school all but ground to a halt for a fortnight as a large portion of the school grounds were used for shooting and the majority of male pupils were involved in taking part as extras.
Extensive cosmetic remodelling took place in some parts of the school so as to render the set historically accurate. For example, a convincing artificial well was constructed in the Old Quad where one had previously been but had since been demolished and bricked over. This particular prop remained at the school for nearly a year afterwards, as the film crew did not take it with them when they left.
The Old Gym, one of the longest standing school buildings, was sequestered as a base for costumes for the extras.
Stephen Fry interacted enthusiastically with the school during his time on set. He gave an almost universally attended talk to the entire school one evening, in which he, among other things, told the story of his expulsion from Uppingham School. Approximately ten select extras (pupils) were invited to talk to him at length in the Headmaster's study on another occasion.
Some occasions of tension on set were noted between some of the child stars playing lead roles, and both their director and the students playing as extras. These took the form of conflicts of attitude, as both the pupils and the director found some of the young actors to be aloof and stroppy at times. Although, in one instance the mother of a child actor was cited as more of an impediment to the director than the child himself.

Tom Brown's School Days has had several screen adaptations, including:

Tom Brown's Schooldays (1916 film) (silent)
Tom Brown's School Days (1940 film)
Tom Brown's Schooldays (1951 film)
Tom Brown's Schooldays (1971 TV miniseries)
Tom Brown's Schooldays (2005 TV film)
In the 1940 U.S. film, the role of Dr Thomas Arnold as a reform-minded educator was given greater prominence than in the novel. In it, Arnold was portrayed by Cedric Hardwicke, Tom Brown was played by Jimmy Lydon, and Freddie Bartholomew played East. In the 1951 British film, Robert Newton portrayed Thomas Arnold, and John Howard Davies portrayed Tom Brown.
The 1971 five-part television miniseries was by the BBC, and starred Anthony Murphy as Tom Brown and Iain Cuthbertson as Dr. Arnold. It was later shown on PBS's Masterpiece Theatre in the U.S., and both the programme and Murphy's lead performance won Emmy Awards.
The two-hour 2005 TV film was by ITV. It starred Alex Pettyfer as Tom and Stephen Fry as Dr Arnold.

A musical version with music by Chris Andrews and book and lyrics by Jack and Joan Maitland was presented at the Cambridge Theatre in London's West End in 1971. The production starred Keith Chegwin, Roy Dotrice, Simon Le Bon, and Tony Sympson.




Loo with a view: rare Victorian outdoor toilet restored to former glory

$
0
0

The Victorian outside toilet at Brodsworth Hall after it was restored, along with the Privy Garden (English Heritage/PA)


Embargoed to 0001 Friday May 5 Undated handout photo issued by English Heritage of a Victorian outside toilet built for the exclusive use of a wealthy family and their guests before being fully restored following decades hidden under a mountain of ivy.

Loo with a view: rare Victorian outdoor toilet restored to former glory

English Heritage completes repair of ‘gentrified decorate garden privy’ at South Yorkshire stately home



 Little brick pavilion toilet
The little brick pavilion housing the earth closet toilet has been returned to its former glory at Brodsworth Hall. Photograph: Anthony Chappel-Ross/English Her/PA

Maev Kennedy
Friday 5 May 2017 00.01 BST Last modified on Friday 5 May 2017 00.02 BST

A historic view with a loo has been recreated, with the rescue and restoration of a Victorian outdoor toilet in the gardens of Brodsworth Hall in South Yorkshire. The toilet, described as “a rare surviving example of a gentrified decorate garden privy”, is a far rarer survival than the listed mansion itself.

The little brick pavilion housing the earth closet toilet – which had disappeared under a mound of ivy – has been restored by English Heritage, complete with its discreet screens of yew hedges and surround of tactfully strongly scented plants, including orange blossom, scented geranium and roses.

The mansion was built in 1861, and was opulently plumbed, with nine flushing toilets for the family and staff. The garden toilet was strictly for the family and visitors, not the small army of staff working in the 8 hectares (20 acres) of gardens.

As there was no running water to the building, servants had the daily task of emptying the bucket below a wooden bench and using the “night soil” as fertiliser in the surrounding beds and lawns.

Daniel Hale, its current head gardner, said: “Interesting buildings come in all shapes and sizes. Toilets may not be glamorous, but they can be a fascinating source of social history. This privy sheds a light on the Victorians’ love of gardens. Lost for years under ivy, we’re delighted to have rescued this lovely loo and share its story with visitors – although we’d ask them not to get too familiar with it.”

Vogue editor Anna Wintour made a dame at Palace ceremony

$
0
0


Sunglasses briefly come off as Vogue's Anna Wintour is made a dame
Famously enigmatic editor of American fashion magazine receives honour from the Queen at Buckingham Palace ceremony

Haroon Siddique and agency
Friday 5 May 2017 16.48 BST Last modified on Friday 5 May 2017 16.58 BST

Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of American Vogue, has been made a dame at Buckingham Palace.

Wintour, 67, who has headed up the magazine for almost 30 years, was honoured in the diplomatic and overseas list for services to fashion and journalism.

She wore her trademark sunglasses to the palace but removed them before entering the ballroom, where she received the award from the Queen.

The famously enigmatic editor smiled broadly after the ceremony, which she attended with her daughter Bee Shaffer, describing the award as “extra special”.

She also revealed that the Queen had struggled to attach the insignia to her pink, belted Chanel outfit during the ceremony.

“She couldn’t find where to put the brooch,” she said. “I congratulated her on Prince Philip’s service because obviously that’s so remarkable and such an inspiration to us all.”

Wintour also lavished praise on other members of the royal family. “I think everyone in the United States has such admiration for the British royal family, and with the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge there’s a whole new interest in the younger generation,” she said.

 “She has such style and she’s so charming. They seem so real and authentic, which I think is the right way to be today.”

Wintour edited British Vogue between 1985 and 1987. She took the helm of the flagship US edition in 1988. Known for her flawless sense of style and trademark bob haircut, she has become a familiar face on fashion show front rows.

She was born in London but later became a US citizen. “Obviously this is a city that I grew up in, a city that I have so much affection and love for,” she said. “It’s always wonderful to get an award, but this one is extra special.”

Wintour was among a host of distinguished figures who were honoured by the Queen during the service, including the former bishop of Liverpool James Jones.

He said it was an “extraordinary moment” to receive a knighthood for his services to bereaved families and justice, after chairing the Hillsborough Independent Panel.

“Although I’m very honoured, I’m also very mindful of all those who’ve been bereaved through tragedy and have suffered injustice,” he said.

The Times political cartoonist Peter Brookes, 73, was made a CBE, and rock’n’roll star Marty Wilde, 78, was made an MBE, along with the Olympic gold medallists Matt Langridge, Constantine Louloudis and George Nash after their success in rowing at the Rio Games.


A police officer who risked his life during a shootout with a gang member in Tottenham, north London, in 2014 was also recognised. Martin Finney received the George Medal, the second-highest civil award for bravery.

The Hindenburg disaster, 80 years on / Hindenburg Disaster - real footage of the terrible crash 1937

$
0
0


The Hindenburg disaster, 80 years on: a 'perfect storm of circumstances'

On 6 May 1937, the zeppelin caught fire and crashed in New Jersey, killing more than 30 people. Disaster could have been averted, experts say

Joanna Walters in New York
@Joannawalters13
Sunday 7 May 2017 09.00 BST Last modified on Sunday 7 May 2017 09.01 BST

The huge airship had circled three times around the Empire State Building. It was on its way to land in New Jersey. From her home in southern Pennsylvania, Libby Magness Weisburg watched the Hindenburg glide by.

“It was amazing how beautiful it was,” she told the Guardian on Saturday. “The silver airship against a clear blue sky. How enormous. It was the most exquisite thing I had ever seen.”

Then the zeppelin turned. Its tail swung into view. On it, stark and black, were swastikas.

 “We had no inkling of what Hitler was really doing to the Jews already, but I knew Germany was the enemy,” said Weisburg, 89. “I was startled, and that beauty up there turned into fear.”

Her neighbors, she said, gesticulated angrily at the sky.

Not long after, on 6 May 1937, as it was coming in to moor at the naval base at Lakehurst, New Jersey, the Hindenburg caught fire and crashed. Of the 97 people on board, 62 miraculously escaped the burning wreckage. But 22 crew members, 13 passengers and one worker on the ground were killed.

After the disaster, President Franklin Roosevelt and King George sent telegrams of condolence to Hitler.

•••

Eighty years on, as the spectacular crash is remembered with ceremonies and in retellings, its precise cause remains unknown. What is certain is that it could have been avoided, or at least minimized, if not for a “perfect storm” of unfortunate events and errors.

“The landing was rushed and they took shortcuts on some of the safety procedures,” Rick Zitarosa, a historian with the Navy Lakehurst Historical Society, said.

The Hindenburg crash was the first major transport disaster captured on film, in dramatic footage ever since paired with recorded commentary by a radio reporter who reacted in horror to the shocking scene before him.

Few people directly connected to the disaster are still alive. The lone remaining survivor from the airship itself, Werner Doehner, is now an 88-year-old resident of Colorado.

 “Suddenly the air was on fire,” he said this week, speaking to the Associated Press.

The Hindenburg was about 200ft off the ground when it combusted – not “exploded”, as some have since described it. It burned from tail to nose in just 34 seconds but as it collapsed to Earth, Doehner’s mother threw him and his 10-year-old brother from the craft. All three survived.

Just before the fire broke out, however, Werner’s father had gone to the family cabin.

“We didn’t see him again,” Doehner said.

His 14-year-old sister escaped the wreck but rushed back into it to look for their missing father. After emerging without him, she did not survive her burns.

•••

Facebook Twitter Pinterest
Footage of the disaster.
Speculation about sabotage was rife, as this archive news report from the Guardian shows. There had been reports of bomb threats to the transatlantic passenger airship program, the pride of Nazi Germany.

Investigations, however, concluded that a spark of static electricity had most likely ignited leaking hydrogen as, in Zitarosa’s words, “they brought the ship in for landing under thunderstorm conditions”.

It is most widely believed that the leak came from one of the ship’s rear gas containers. What caused the leak is not known. Zitarosa surmised that a broken length of wiring or other piece of hardware somehow ripped the container, which was made of a tough cotton fabric with a film of early latex-type material.

Other factors may have contributed. The Hindenburg was 12 hours late to Lakehurst, having been delayed by strong headwinds across the north Atlantic before spending several hours flying around the area, waiting for storms to clear.

Zeppelins normally took two and a half days to reach the US from Germany, moving twice as fast as an ocean liner. Although the Hindenburg had taken three days, it had plenty of diesel fuel left. It could have flown further.

But passengers, among them dignitaries heading for England and the coronation of King George VI, were waiting. The airship was due to turn around in record time.

Its pilots attempted a so-called high landing, in which ropes were tossed to the ground from around 200ft, for ground crew to pull the giant craft down and secure it to a mooring mast.

This would be quicker than a more usual low landing, by which the airship approached long and low until it touched the ground and could be dragged to the mooring mast. A low approach carried less risk, but took more men on the ground and more time.

Either way, it was known to be extremely dangerous to land in thundery weather. Ground crew members were soaked and there was electricity in the air.

A London news vendor, carries posters promoting coverage of the Hindenburg disaster in local newspapers in London. Photograph: Hulton Archive/Getty Images
“When the ship dropped its landing ropes, they got wet and acted as conductors,” said Zitarosa. “The ship became grounded and that’s why we think the static electricity made a spark and caught the leaking hydrogen.”

In a flash, the craft was shooting flames for hundreds of feet, its burning skeleton collapsing.

A Chicago radio reporter, Herbert Morrison, bore witness to the raging inferno.

“It burst into flames, it burst into flames!” he cried. “And it’s falling, it’s crashing …it’s crashing terrible … Oh, the humanity … oh, ladies and gentlemen …”

If the Hindenburg had caught fire after a low landing, many more would probably have escaped with their lives. The fire may also have been avoided completely, because the forward motion of the airship, as opposed to hovering, would have given the leaking hydrogen more chance of being flushed away through louvered vents.

“It was a perfect storm of circumstances,” said Zitarosa. “The late schedule, the weather, the leak, the decision to make the landing at that time and in that way and the use of hydrogen in general. The disaster could have been avoided on several counts, but caution was thrown to the wind.”

Despite the US maintaining a monopoly on commercial supplies of helium, an inert gas that would make airship travel much safer, news reports after the crash suggested that a bullish Germany was going to keep the zeppelin program going. In reality, thanks to the advent of the passenger plane, the airship business was already sliding towards obsolescence.


Zeppelins never landed at Lakehurst again. Before long, American dirigibles were taking off from there instead, searching for German submarines.

Le Comte D'Orsay ... The Last of the Dandies

$
0
0


Alfred d'Orsay, known as the comte d'Orsay (Count of Orsay) (Alfred Guillaume Gabriel; 4 September 1801–4 August 1852) was a French amateur artist, dandy, and man of fashion in the early- to mid-19th century.
He was born in Paris, the second son of Albert Gaspard Grimaud, a Bonapartist general. His mother was Eleanore de Franquemont, an illegitimate daughter of the Duke of Württemberg and the Italian adventuress Anne Franchi, and his elder brother died in infancy.
In 1821 he entered the French army of the restored Bourbon monarchy (against his own Bonapartist tendencies), attending the lavish coronation of George IV of the United Kingdom in London that year (staying until 1822) and serving as a Garde du Corps of Louis XVIII. While in London he formed an acquaintance with Charles Gardiner, 1st Earl of Blessington and Marguerite, Countess of Blessington, which quickly ripened into intimacy. The following year the couple visited him where he was stationed at Valence on the Rhone, and at the invitation of the earl he accompanied the party on their tour through Italy.

In the spring of 1823 he met Lord Byron at Genoa, and the published correspondence of the poet at this period contains numerous references to d'Orsay's gifts and accomplishments, and to his peculiar relationship to the Blessington family. A diary which d'Orsay had kept during his visit to London in 1821–1822 was submitted to Byron's inspection, and was much praised by him for the knowledge of men and manners and the keen faculty of observation it displayed.

On December 1, 1827, Count d'Orsay married Lady Harriet Gardiner, a girl of fifteen, the daughter of Lord Blessington by his previous wife. The union, if it rendered his connection with the Blessington family less ostensibly equivocal than before, was in other respects an unhappy one, and a legal separation took place in 1838, at which Lady Harriet paid over £100,000 to his creditors (though even this did not cover all his debts) in exchange for d'Orsay giving up all claims to the Blessington estate.

After the death of Lord Blessington, which occurred in 1829, the widowed countess returned to England, accompanied by d'Orsay, and her home, first at Seamore Place, then at Gore House, soon became a resort of the fashionable literary and artistic society of London, which found an equal attraction in host and in hostess. The count's charming manner, brilliant wit, and artistic faculty were accompanied by benevolent moral qualities, which endeared him to all his associates. His skill as a painter and sculptor was shown in numerous portraits and statuettes representing his friends, which were marked by great vigour and truthfulness, if wanting in the finish that can only be reached by persistent discipline.

It was at Gore House that d'Orsay met Benjamin Disraeli and Edward Bulwer-Lytton, themselves young men of fashion who dabbled in the arts. D'Orsay and Disraeli were good friends in the 1830s–to the point that Disraeli asked d'Orsay to be his second, when it appeared that Disraeli would fight a duel with Morgan O'Connell, the son of Irish agitator Daniel O'Connell. D'Orsay declined, on the grounds of being a foreigner, and Disraeli went with Henry Baillie, a mutual friend. The character of Count Alcibiades de Mirabel in Disraeli's novel Henrietta Temple was modeled on d'Orsay, to whom the book was dedicated.

The comte's and Marguerite's pyramidal tomb at Chambourcy (Yvelines, France)Count d'Orsay had been from his youth a zealous Bonapartist, and one of the most frequent guests at Gore House was Prince Louis Napoleon. In 1849 the count went bankrupt, and the establishment at Gore House being broken up, he went to Paris. Lady Blessington sold almost all her possessions and followed him there, but died a few weeks after her arrival, leaving him heartbroken. He endeavoured to provide for himself by painting portraits. He was deep in the counsels of the prince president (who had also returned to Paris from exile, and been elected president the year before d'Orsay arrived), but relations between them were less cordial after Louis's 1851 coup d'état (in which he became Emperor Napoleon III), of which the count had expressed his strong disapproval.

Reluctant to entrust d'Orsay with any affairs of state, Napoleon III finally offered him the position of director of the Beaux-Arts. Within a few months of the appointment, however, D'Orsay contracted a spinal infection, of which he died on 4 August 1852 in the house of his sister Ida, duchesse de Gramont, at Chambourcy, just a few days after his appointment had been officially announced. He had designed a pyramidal grey stone tomb for Lady Blessington at Chambourcy, and he too was buried in it, with Napoleon III among the mourners at the funeral.




A flounce too far
The Count D'Orsay may have been the first shopaholic. Kathryn Hughes enjoys Nick Foulkes's glittering, chatty - and long - life of a colourful gentleman, Last of the Dandies

Last of the Dandies: The Scandalous Life and Escapades of Count D'Orsay
by Nick Foulkes
Kathryn Hughes
The Guardian, Saturday 14 June 2003

Count D'Orsay loved to shop. Mostly he bought clothes, reckoning on six pairs of gloves to get through a single day, but he was quite happy to branch out into home furnishings, too. The stately pleasure domes of Kensington, St James and Mayfair where the lovely man lived throughout the 1830s and 40s (it was not until middle-age that he turned into "stout count") were crammed with pretty things.
There were cushions, fans, scent-bottles, easy chairs and matching footmen gilded in green and gold. When he moved out of his last fancy address, Gore House, in 1848, the auction of D'Orsay's worldly goods provoked a stampede of wannabes and retail tourists, all determined to catch sight of the way a legend lived.
D'Orsay shared the Kensington mansion with Lady Blessington, a pretty, small-town Irish slattern who had managed to reinvent herself as an intellectual and artistic lioness. In a complicated Oedipal tangle that intrigued London's gossiping classes, D'Orsay had previously been married to Lady Blessington's step-daughter. If the marriage was ever consummated, it was certainly not prosecuted with any enthusiasm, and instead D'Orsay divided his affections between Lady Blessington and her husband.
It was Lord Blessington, whose death in 1829 made the whole situation marginally more manageable, who funded the oddly extended household. Rich from his Irish estates, the boyishly enthusiastic Blessington had paid for himself, his wife and their shared lover and son-in-law to ramble around Europe in style, stopping to set up camp periodically in some of the most beautiful palazzos, palaces and hotels particuliers that the civilised world had to offer.
All of this should have been a recipe for disaster, but in fact the ménage a trois was sweetly harmonious (the only loser was Blessington's daughter, who grew wan and silent the further she got into her lacklustre marriage with D'Orsay - only a new lover and divorce made her cheerful again). In fact, none of the main players seems to have been very interested in sex at all. Lord Blessington preferred amateur dramatics, Lady Blessington was more worried about keeping up to speed with her reading, and D'Orsay liked to shop.
Tall and handsome, his dandy look was a million miles away from the earlier example of Beau Brummell. Whereas Brummell had made a virtue of simplicity and clean lines, D'Orsay adored colour and flounce. His waistcoats were loud, his trousers were tight and his smell - usually jasmine - must have announced his arrival several minutes before his appearance. Disraeli and Dickens were just two of the hundreds of loud young men who pored over the count's elaborate appearance in the hope of reproducing some of that impact on a budget.
Nick Foulkes seems to be touchingly fond of D'Orsay. Instead of giving us a camp old monster, he reminds us of D'Orsay's nicer side. Unlike Brummell, who could reduce a society hostess to tears with a cold comment and judging sneer, D'Orsay had no desire to make anyone feel plain or dowdy. He was a kind, generous employer, a keen watcher of politics in his native France (although he never had the clout he liked to imagine) and a more than averagely talented painter. In middle-age and with the Blessington millions pretty much spent, he took to drawing sketches of the great and the good who nearly always doubled as personal friends. A delighted Duke of Wellington declared that D'Orsay was the only person who had managed to paint him looking like a gentleman.
Foulkes writes fluently and well. Perhaps, indeed, too fluently: at 466 pages, the book is overlong. In part this is because Foulkes insists on quoting at length from the original sources - letters and legal documents are repeated in full. In one way this is cheering: there is nothing like hearing an extended piece of prose to give you a sense of the mind that lies behind it. Too many biographies depend on paraphrase, with the result that the original voice is all but drowned. But even the most dedicated reader of Last of the Dandies might feel faint when faced with page after page of indented, small point print.
Foulkes's editors have also served him badly over the plates. Finding likenesses of a subject who lived in a pre-photographic age is always tricky. But to be reduced to sticking in pictures of modern road signs (Rue de Comte d'Orsay, Allée Lady Blessington) smacks of desperation. In black and white, and sometimes so dark as to be barely decipherable, these dowdy illustrations are just the sort of thing that would have made the Comte d'Orsay weep with frustration and shame.



The New Yorker
The magazine's first cover illustration, of a dandy peering at a butterfly through a monocle, was drawn by Rea Irvin, the magazine's first art editor, based on an 1834 caricature of the then Count D'Orsay which appeared as an illustration



ORSAY ALFRED GUILLAUME GABRIEL comte d' (1801-1852)

Lieutenant aux gardes du corps de Louis XVIII, le comte d'Orsay n'aurait pas laissé son nom à la postérité sans une réputation de dandy qui fit sa légende. Du dandy, il eut le mépris de convention, l'élégance d'esthète, le culte du moi, et sa vie s'accorde en quelque manière avec le « geste du dandy ». Il n'a guère plus de vingt ans lorsqu'il rencontre lady Blessington, belle vedette de la société londonienne. Il réussit à devenir à la fois l'amant de la dame, le protégé du vieux lord Blessington et l'époux de sa fille, belle-fille de lady BlessingtonLady Blessington, T. Lawrence. Le scandale, qui évite l'inceste, amuse le Tout-Londres, séduit par ce Français, beau, élégant et charmeur : « Il plaisait si naturellement et si passionnément à tout le monde qu'il faisait porter son médaillon jusqu'à des hommes. » Une seule mécontente dans cette histoire : la jeune comtesse d'Orsay que son mari n'a même pas regardée. À la mort de lord Blessington en 1829, il se sépare officiellement de sa femme pour vivre avec sa maîtresse.
Pour Barbey d'Aurevilly, d'Orsay n'est pas un dandy, mais un lion : « C'est une nature infiniment plus complexe, plus ample et plus humaine que cette chose anglaise. » Il lui reconnaît une véritable nature d'artiste : « Les marbres laissés par d'Orsay ont de la pensée. » Amateur d'art, d'Orsay s'occupe aussi, en effet, à la peinture et surtout à la sculpture.
Après avoir parcouru l'Europe, il vit avec lady Blessington en France puis, après 1830, en Angleterre, à Gore House où le couple reçoit Thomas Moore, Disraëli, Dickens, Thackeray, Louis Blanc, Alfred de Vigny et Louis Napoléon Bonaparte. Ce dernier, alors que le comte d'Orsay avait fui l'Angleterre et ses créanciers, le nomma directeur des Beaux-Arts peu de temps avant sa mort.


André Jean TUDESQ


Herald / Hérauts d'Armes / VIDEO:State Opening Of Parliament (1960)

$
0
0


A herald, or, more correctly, a herald of arms, is an officer of arms, ranking between pursuivant and king of arms. The title is commonly applied more broadly to all officers of arms.

Heralds were originally messengers sent by monarchs or noblemen to convey messages or proclamations—in this sense being the predecessors of the modern diplomats. In the Hundred Years' War, French heralds challenged King Henry V to fight. During the Battle of Agincourt, the English herald and the French herald, Montjoie, watched the battle together from a nearby hill; both agreed that the English were the victors, and Montjoie provided King Henry V, who thus earned the right to name the battle, with the name of the nearby castle.

Like other officers of arms, a herald would often wear a surcoat, called a tabard, decorated with the coat of arms of his master. It was possibly due to their role in managing the tournaments of the Late Middle Ages that heralds came to be associated with the regulation of the knights' coats of arms. Heralds have been employed by kings and large landowners, principally as messengers and ambassadors. Heralds were required to organise, announce and referee the contestants at a tournament. This science of heraldry became increasingly important and further regulated over the years, and in several countries around the world it is still overseen by heralds. Thus the primary job of a herald today is to be an expert in coats of arms. In the United Kingdom heralds are still called upon at times to read proclamations publicly; for which they still wear tabards emblazoned with the royal coat of arms.

There are active official heralds today in several countries, including the United Kingdom, the Republic of Ireland, Canada, and the Republic of South Africa. In England and Scotland most heralds are full-time employees of the sovereign and are called "Heralds of Arms in Ordinary". Temporary appointments can be made of "Heralds of Arms Extraordinary". These are often appointed for a specific major state occasions, such as a coronation. In addition, the Canadian Heraldic Authority has created the position of "Herald of Arms Emeritus", with which to honor long-serving or distinguished heraldists. In Scotland, some Clan Chiefs, the heads of great noble houses, still appoint private officers of arms to handle cases of heraldic or genealogical importance of clan members, although these are usually pursuivants.















Chez les Grecs, ils sont appelés κήρυκες / kếrukes et chez les Romains fetiales, mais rien ne permet de prouver qu'il existe un lien entre ces officiers et les hérauts qui apparaissent au Moyen Âge. Ce lien semble avoir été créé au xve siècle par les hérauts eux-mêmes afin de prouver l'ancienneté et la noblesse de leur office à une période où celui-ci était remis en cause.

Apparue vraisemblablement au xiie siècle (on relève une mention tirée de Chrétien de Troyes datant de la fin du xiie siècle), les hérauts d'armes sont intimement liés au développement de l'héraldique.

Issus des rangs des jongleurs et ménestrels, les officiers d'armes se spécialisèrent dans les tournois, les joutes ou encore les pas d'armes. Ils les annonçaient, y menaient les chevaliers et les commentaient. À l'origine, ils n'étaient pas liés à un noble en particulier et menaient une vie d'errance, contribuant ainsi au renom de divers chevaliers. Ils relataient leurs faits d'armes partout où ils se rendaient. Ce rôle eut une influence notable sur l'office. En effet, toute l'organisation du groupe est liée aux tournois. Tout d'abord la distinction des officiers selon leurs marches d'armes correspond aux divisions territoriales des groupes de chevaliers dans les tournois. Ensuite, la hiérarchie de l'office d'armes est également assujettie, du moins sur le plan symbolique, à la chevalerie et aux tournois. En effet, comme le rappelle Olivier de la Marche dans ses mémoires, il faut sept ans à un poursuivant d'armes pour pouvoir devenir héraut. Cette durée correspond au temps nécessaire à un écuyer pour devenir chevalier.

L'âge d'or
Ce rôle en matière de tournois fit d'eux des experts en blasons, ce qui leur permit d'avoir des fonctions militaires officialisées au début du xive siècle comme le montre l'ordonnance prise par Philippe le Bel en 1306 sur le gage de bataille. En effet, il n'y avait pas d'uniforme dans l'ost féodal, et les combattants ne se reconnaissaient que par les armoiries figurant sur les bannières, les pennons ou les écus. La connaissance des blasons acquise en fréquentant les tournois permettait aux officiers d'armes de reconnaître rapidement les protagonistes et de saisir le déroulement des batailles. Ceci les rendait fort précieux, notamment au xiiie siècle où les armoiries se sont individualisées. Ainsi, ils se fixèrent auprès de seigneurs en conservant certaines spécificités héritées de leur ancien statut d'errant, par exemple des fonctions de messageries et d'annonces facilitées par les immunités dont ils jouissaient (en particulier le droit de circuler librement partout où ils se rendaient). Ils acquirent aussi de nouvelles compétences, notamment dans la définition des règles en matière d'héraldique et la composition des armoriaux.

Selon les contemporains, le xve siècle est une période de crise pour l'office d'armes. Sans doute, le droit reconnu au moindre capitaine de s'attacher les services d'un poursuivant y est pour beaucoup. En effet, cette mesure a vraisemblablement entraîné une multiplication des poursuivants d'armes, parfois recrutés parmi des gens indignes de cet office selon leurs pairs, « de vielz menestrels qui ne poient plus corner » comme le dit le héraut Sicile3. Mais, ce qui a le plus fragilisé le corps des officiers d'armes au xve siècle est sans doute le passage de l'ost médiéval à une armée permanente soldée. À partir de 1445, en France, les compagnies d'ordonnances se substituent aux contingents de vassaux se ralliant à la bannière de leur seigneur. Le rôle militaire des officiers d'armes disparaîtra complètement après la guerre de Trente Ans, puis leur rôle héraldique disparaîtra en 1615, date de la création du juge d'armes. Paradoxalement, cette période de déclin décriée par les hérauts du xve siècle semble, à nos yeux, être l'apogée de l'office d'armes. En effet, il n'est qu'à prendre l'exemple de la constitution du collège héraldique français en 1406 ou encore celui des requêtes présentées aux princes présents au congrès d'Arras de 1435, pour comprendre que les hérauts représentaient un corps assez important et reconnu au xve siècle.

S'il y a déclin de l'office d'armes, celui-ci semble davantage se situer au xvie siècle. Ceci est sans doute dû à une conjonction de facteurs dont le principal semble être le passage du système féodal à l'État moderne qui transfère toutes les dignités au monarque et retire à la noblesse son caractère militaire. Ce mouvement s'amplifiera au xviie siècle et l'office d'armes perdra ses principales prérogatives. Leur rôle héraldique disparaîtra en 1615, date de la création du juge d'armes. En 1627, le collège héraldique perdit son indépendance et fut rattaché à la grande écurie royale après la suppression de la connétablie. Quelque temps plus tard, ce sont leurs fonctions militaires qui seront remises en cause : Louis XIII sera le dernier roi de France à s'entourer de hérauts pendant la guerre de Trente Ans. Enfin, leur rôle de maîtres de cérémonies leur sera retiré au profit de l'introducteur des ambassadeurs. Par la suite, l'office d'armes réduit, semble-t-il, à un simple élément de la pompe impériale et monarchique, subsistera en France jusqu'en 1830. Ainsi, des officiers d'armes participèrent à l'ouverture des États généraux de 1789, aux funérailles de Louis XVIII et au sacre de Charles X en 1825. On les mentionne une dernière fois, en France, à la tête du cortège du Te Deum célébrant la prise d'Alger le 11 juillet 1830.

À l'heure actuelle, certains pays disposent encore de hérauts d'armes, notamment l'Afrique du Sud, l'Angleterre où ils prirent part au couronnement d'Elizabeth en 19534, le Canada, l'Écosse (Lord Lyon), l'Espagne où ils participèrent à la proclamation de Juan Carlos en 19755 et l'Irlande. Aux Pays-Bas, des hérauts d'armes figurent seulement pendant la cérémonie d'inauguration du Roi. Ils étaient normalement des membres du Haut Conseil de Noblesse ; pendant la dernière inauguration, celle de la reine Beatrix en 1980, il s'agit de combattants de la Résistance.




Article 5

$
0
0

Sheep on The Row - 5th October 2015 from Savile Row Bespoke Association on Vimeo.

Wool Week 2015 got under way with Bowmont and Exmoor sheep grazing on Savile Row and live models displaying the wonderful work and wares of numerous Savile Row Bespoke Association members and associate members. Special thanks are due to The Woolmark Company, stylist Sammy Aki and Lloyd Almond for making the day possible. Wool Week is an initiative of The Campaign For Wool.

Michael Gambon’s Suit Journey – The English Gentleman at the Cabinet War...

Article 3

$
0
0

The Road to Lord's - 17th June 2013 from Savile Row Bespoke Association on Vimeo.

The members of the Savile Row Bespoke Association (SRBA) joined forces with London’s best bootmakers, shirt makers and hatters to present over one hundred outfits showcasing the modern day face of traditional British men’s style for the second season of The English Gentleman at London Collections: Men.
The event was spread throughout the iconic rooms of Lord’s cricket ground, the spiritual home of England’s most quintessentially elegant game.
The event was made possible by the support of The Woolmark Company and SRBA partners Chivas.

Warm thanks should also be paid to the organising committee of Anda Rowland of Anderson & Sheppard, Jo Levin, Sammy Aki, Audie Charles, Lloyd Almond, Eleanor Duthie, Holly Roberts, Rob Soar and the team at event co-sponsors Anderson & Sheppard.

Article 2

$
0
0

The English Gentleman at Apsley House - 12th January 2015. Short version. from Savile Row Bespoke Association on Vimeo.

A short film that captures the essence of the military styling that was the central theme of Savile Row's The English Gentleman at Apsley House Autumn/Winter '15 presentation of 12th January 2015.
Pieces were supplied by Savile Row Bespoke Association members Anderson & Sheppard, Chittleborough & Morgan, Dege & Skinner, Gieves & Hawkes, Richard James and Welsh & Jefferies.

The film was produced by Woolmark.


Article 1

$
0
0

The English Gentleman at Apsley House - 12th January 2015 from Savile Row Bespoke Association on Vimeo.

On Monday 12th January, for London Collections: Men, the bespoke tailors of Savile Row, The Woolmark Company, and the select shirt makers and shoe makers associated with The English Gentleman’ presented the modern face of British elegance at the wonderful Apsley House, hosted by The Earl of Mornington. The presentation is a reminder of the fact that London is the world’s capital of masculine style, and has been for over two centuries. Through 'The English Gentleman', now in its 6th Season, Savile Row tailors and the gentlemen's houses of St James's continue to present the finest collections in the most iconic and exclusive settings in London. To celebrate the bicentenary year of the Battle of Waterloo, The English Gentleman was styled by Jo Levin, Creative Fashion Director of British GQ and presented by Anda Rowland (Anderson and Sheppard), Sammy Aki, Lloyd Almond and Poppy Charles (Huntsman)


Viewing all 3471 articles
Browse latest View live


<script src="https://jsc.adskeeper.com/r/s/rssing.com.1596347.js" async> </script>